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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #285
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small-list-digest Monday, November 1 1999 Volume 03 : Number 285



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Small - Polishing an Explorer
Re: FTE Small - Ranger 4WD
FTE Small - Aerostars Unlimited
Re: FTE Small - 84 B2 help
Re: FTE Small - 84 B2 help
Re: FTE Small - AWD comment
FTE Small - Re: ranger lift
FTE Small - Door ajar warning
Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning
Re: FTE Small - Air vent on a 99 Ranger
Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning
FTE Small - 4WD repaired
Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning (fwd)
RE: FTE Small - 84 B2 help
FTE Small - Suspension Upgrades

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:33:41 EST
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Polishing an Explorer

Don't know about it being any different type of paint, but I do know that I
use Meguire products on my 94 Explorer and the work extrememly well. I keep
a good bead on mine for several months. I also wax it very often. A good
thing to do is to first take a cleanser and clean the serface thoroghly.
Then you'll want to glaze your explorer and then apply the wax. I use
anything with Carnuba in it and they seem to do very well. Meguires Yellow
26 I believe is the latest stuff I bought. Also check out there website you
can get some great info from 'em. :)


>From: "Ron,Marge,Ted"
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "Ford Truck"
>Subject: FTE Small - Polishing an Explorer
>Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 19:06:52 -0400
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>Hi All,
>
> Anyone here have any ideas about why after polishing my wife's 94
>Explorer only a month ago, it no longer beads up when wet? I have noticed
>this almost since it was new. It doesn't matter what brand of polish or wax
>I use, after it gets rained on a couple of times, it barely beads up. Now I
>use the same stuff on my 98 F-150 and also on my old 90 F-150, and they
>always bead up for months. Just wondering if there is something different
>about the paint used on the 94 Explorer compared to the other Ford
>products!
>
>
>Ron
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:37:43 EST
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Ranger 4WD

Buck,
The Chilton has a trouble shooting section with a code chart in it but I
don't know if it has anything that directly deals with the touch four wheel
drive system. I have one on my 94 Explorer. I'll have to check it and see
if I can't help you.




>From: Blest25913 aol.com
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE Small - Ranger 4WD
>Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 20:32:47 EDT
>MIME-Version: 1.0
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>
>In a message dated 10/25/99 4:46:37 AM,
>owner-small-list-digest ford-trucks.com writes:
>
>
>Hi all. The 4WD in my 94 Ranger is in-op. I'm sure that it is
>an electrical problem in the "Touch Drive". Does anyone know how
>to trouble shoot this system, or if a trouble shooting guide is in
>Chilton, Haynes, or All Data? Is there a common problem or weak
>part in this system? Any help will be most appreciated. Buck Shoff
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>------------------------- >>
>
>Hi Buck,
>I thought that you were the expert. I know that you've answered questions
>for
>me before. It might be the auto "magical" hubs. I had mine replaced with
>manuals. As far as the transfer case, I've had no problems in 98K miles.
>But
>I hear that there is a switching motor in there that can go.
>Ron Trampe
>'96 Ranger 4WD Manual Hubs
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:43:22 EST
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: FTE Small - Aerostars Unlimited

Fuck an Aroestar!!!

Note: This is a mailing list is for FORD TRUCKS. Not want to be yuppie
"trucks". To all the Aroestar owners, get your own seperate mailing list!!


>From: rgstein pacbell.net
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: Ford Truck List
>Subject: FTE Small - Aerostars
>Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 21:35:38 -0700
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>Tim Turner wrote (quoting) -------------------------------
>
> > The Aerostar is truly useful in cities with scant driveway clearance an=
>d
> > almost impossible parking (such as San Francisco). =
>
>
>Although my B-II has a MUCH tighter turning circle, but not the
>kid/cargo capacity..
>
>Oh. I forgot to mention the awful turning circle. I'm always getting
>stuck in my U-turns.
>
> > Unfortunately, Ford accomplished this feat by jamming the engine in so=
>
> > tightly that you damn near can't repair it at all. =
>
>
>Said that right! I'd love a few minutes in a dark alley with the design
>=
>team
>responsible for the engine compartment of the Aerostar. (For friendly
>'discussion' only of course.) ;-)
>
>I'll take those minutes with the CEO of Ford. This company has made some
>mighty stinky decisions to shave a penny here and there, causing massive
>maintenance costs for us poor unsuspecting customers. And burned
>knuckles, sprained backs, etc. for you guys. I feel that I have
>personally paid over and over for all those foreign car companies that
>Ford has been gobbling up lately. Yeah, I know it ain't just Ford, but
>Ford's what I own and it isn't right to not put a drain plug on the
>torque converter just because GM doesn't
>
> And now Chrysler has responded with i=
>t's
>'cab forward' designs... (Any idea where that cab wound up by going
>forward?)
>
>The cab is "embracing," "cocooning," and "warmly encircling" the motor
>with affection.
>
>(Dunno why your posts are coming onto my machine with all those =s at
>line ends.)
>
>I like what they did the year they moved the shifter from the floor to
>th=
>e
>column. Use the carpeting in stock and cover the hole in the floor with
>=
>a
>cheap cup holder attached by 2 screws that has to be removed to get the
>s=
>o
>called 'engine cover' out.
>
>As I probably posted, I just replaced my distributor cap & rotor. I was
>so exhausted by the severe obstructions for this job that I took the
>thing to a garage to finish with the wires and plugs.
>
>On my '92, it is a bit different, Tim. The cupholder is attached with
>one screw (hey, one screw is cheaper than 2 screws on a $23,000 product,
>right?). That screw holds the cupholder to a plastic cover plate, which
>has molded into it a purposeless "F**k Y*u" plastic finger that prevents
>you from removing the aforementioned 'engine cover.' But, wait!
>There's something else preventing you from taking off that cover. Why,
>mercy me, it's the antilock brake computer module, neatly bolted right
>below the ash tray. You can easily find the antilock brake computer: it
>is a black slab that says "Mexico" on it. So thoughtful of Ford: I
>always wanted my antilock brake computer right there in the middle of
>the dashboard.
>
> > The Areostar is not a cheap junky car: unfortunately it is a cheap junk=
>y
> > overpriced truck. Or perhaps we have just become accepting of being
> > sold cheap junky automotive merchandise.
>
>I hope that 'cheap' refers to quality not price..
>
>That's what I meant.
>
>If I tend to be sarcastic about the quality of my Aerostar (and I trust,
>many other automotive products these days) it is because of the trends
>that I began to see in the consumer electronic products that I was
>repairing during the '80s. Manufacturers (with Sony leading the way)
>began to cram the assemblies into the cabinets making it damn near
>impossible to get at anything. When we'd tell customers that these
>products were very hard to repair, they'd think we meant that they were
>hard to fix because they were so technically advanced. They were hard
>to fix because they were so obstructed.
>
>Obstructed repair access was accompanied by a reduction of parts quality
>and just plain overstressed parts (such as a unreinforced puny loudness
>control with an enormous knob on the other side of the wall: you get
>it). The final straw is the mfr charging very high prices for oem
>parts, and
>providing repair data only for outrageous ripoff prices. Electronics
>repair shops have been dropping dead; they can't afford to stay in
>business.
>
>This is a formula for throw-away merchandise.
>
>I never thought I'd face the exact same conditions in an automobile.
>But that's exactly how my Ford is made. At some point, maybe not to far
>down the road, a few things will need fixing which will force me to junk
>the Aerostar, still essentially in good condition.
>
>I think that we, as a society, are still suckered by slick advertising
>for these vehicles (the ones that we own). When we hear that they are
>hard to work on, we don't quite get just how incredibly difficult they
>are to repair because everything is obstructed. And how routine
>maintenance is impeded by obstructions so often. People don't seem to
>grok that that amazing interior space is directly reflected in the flat
>rate manual for changing their transmission fluid.
>
>Alas, as long as we keep buying these almost worthless throw-away
>vehicles, the manufacturers will keep making them progressively harder
>to fix, and will use cheaper, flimsier assemblies that fail more often.
>They definitely don't make them like they used to.
>
> The engine itself seems to hold up well thoug=
>h. =
>
>Jeesh. I mean, after paying $2,300 for head gaskets and a few
>associated parts, I hope it does. Perhaps after junking the Aerostar,
>I'll be able to ride around my neighborhood on my engine.
>
>Richard
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:45:34 EST
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 84 B2 help

That sux man. When I removed my CAT on my 94 Explorer all I did was gut it.
Did you totally remove it??


>From: Tom Kirkbride
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: FTE Small - 84 B2 help
>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 13:53:11 -0400
>MIME-Version: 1.0
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>
>Last week I removed my catalytic converter from my 84 B2 4X4 V6. I cut
>through the pipe that connected to it. And 2 days later it wont start.
>I am assuming its because of what i did. When I try to start it, it
>chugs and sounds like it wants to go but doesnt. Any ideas?
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>Get the Internet just the way you want it.
>Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month!
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 11:05:06 -0600
From: "Freewheel"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 84 B2 help

If it wont start, you have another problem.

Any time an engine will not start you should verify that it has spark, fuel
and compression.

If it is trying to start then you should check that your timing has not
slipped and that your fuel filter/pump is providing adequate fuel. I
normally cheat on this with a quick shot of starter fluid to the carb, if it
starts then fuel is the problem, if it back fires then check the timing.

Good luck,
> >
> >Last week I removed my catalytic converter from my 84 B2 4X4 V6. I cut
> >through the pipe that connected to it. And 2 days later it wont start.
> >I am assuming its because of what i did. When I try to start it, it
> >chugs and sounds like it wants to go but doesnt. Any ideas?
> >
>

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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 12:05:23 EST
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - AWD comment

I still have found the part-time manual fourwheel drive system to be much
better in OFFROAD situations. Even though you may have to go out in the mud
or snow to engage a hub you don't have to worry about breaking weak
components. You'll spend 200 dollars to get heavy duty manual hubs
installed on an automatic system one time, where as, for AWD you may spend a
couple hundred to get the same weak components replaced. Maybe for some
street applications your AWD works wonders but for most offroad applications
they are much weaker than the part time MANUAL fourwheel drive systems. I
know of people with the automatic part time four wheel drive systems who
live in Colorodo and use them very often in the snow who have very low miles
on their vehicles and have blown hubs and other components more than once.

It's been to my understanding that the manual systems are much stronger and
hold up twice as long as any of the automatic systems. This is all coming
from fourwheeling (mud only) experience. That's my 2 cents.


>From: "meb8100"
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To:
>Subject: FTE Small - AWD comment
>Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 19:50:55 -0700
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>
>I think some people aren't aware of the difference between AWD and
>part-time
>4-whl drive as indicated in the following comment. Please note: this is
>not meant to continue the "war", just to illustrate the difference. I
>originally wrote:
>
>On slick surfaces, the Aerostar AWD if vastly superior to the standard
>part-time on the Ranger (I have found this out the hard way).
>
>Somebody responded:
>Huh? I'll take a manual hub set-up over a fully automatic one ANY day.
>Admittedly it takes some thought/preparation to engage the hubs beforehand
>but it's a small price to pay Vs. the complexity and repair costs of the
>AWD.
>
>"Automatic hubs", to my knowledge are found only on part-time 4x4 systems
>like a Ranger, BII, Explorer (except I think Explorer is now available with
>AWD). They engage automatically when you engage the 4x4. Manual hubs, of
>course, you engage manually after you get out of the vehicle. AWD has no
>"engagement", they're on ALL THE TIME. The reason I think Aerostar AWD is
>better for most surfaces is it can vary the torque from front to rear
>depending on what has more traction. You can't do that with a standard
>4x4
>system. AWD is much better for virtually all on-road slick conditions
>(wet,
>icy, gravel, etc.).
>
>Okay, I have to get one jab in....I have found the cost for part-time 4x4
>to
>be more expensive. If you don't use part-time 4x4 enough, things can get
>rusty from lack of lube. I observed this on used vehicle purchase, I try
>to
>run the front system on a part-time 4x4 on occasion. On an AWD system, not
>only is the system being used all the time, you're taking the same power
>and
>distributing it over more components for less overall wear. The same
>engine
>putting out the same power (like a 4.0) over just one drivetrain set to the
>rear puts more wear into the rear. I would be interested in hearing if any
>Aerostar owners have seen any premature failures in the AWD system. Mine's
>been bullet-proof so far with 80K on the vehicle.
>
>
>
>
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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 12:03:46 -0600
From: "Randy Collins"
Subject: FTE Small - Re: ranger lift

I bought the body lift from a place called "Auto Accessories, Inc." in St.
Louis, MO (price was $179)and it is a Trailmaster. The lift is 3", and I
understand this is the only size they offer. It came with all the hardware,
including the steering shaft extension.

The front bumper relo brackets are a little mickey mouse, but they do work
and the intregity of the bumper does not seem compromised. I did have to do
some cutting and welding to relocate the rear bumper. Just did it saturday
morning and it turned out great! Only drawback is that I probably won't be
able to tow anything via the bumper, but this is not a big deal as the
correct/best way is to install a hitch. And if I get rear-ended, it will ba
a hassle to fix.

The front hooks are a dead issue, I think.:-( I could look into a front
hitch?

I was thinking of a front grill-mounted light bar, or possibly a roll bar.
What do you think?

ran


> Date: Thu, 28 Oct 1999 10:09:58 -0400
> From: "william.hickey"
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - ranger lift
>
> Can you tell us where you purchased the body lift kit ...... the last time
I
> looked they didn't sell one for the
> 98 and 99s. Is it a 2 or 3 inch kit ? Did the front bumper brackets they
> supplied work for you ? I installed a
> 2 inch kit on my old 93 and ended up frabicating my own front bumper
brackets
> because the ones they
> supplied didn't work. I never did do anything with the rear bumper
because I
> couldn't figure out a method of
> raising it and keeping it as sturdy as original. Let us know what you end
up
> doing about those front hooks.
> I've got a 99 4x4 SC (Offroad Package) and would like to do a 2 inch lift
on it
> and also get rid of those 16 inch rims.
> And beware of the problems of a light bar without rain gutters on your
truck
> .... I have a top of the line bar and lights
> and I only had it mounted a week before I took it off. At highway speeds
the
> darn thing kept slipping back a inch or so.
> The rain gutter conversion kit just doesn't seem sturdy enough to keep it
> inplace at high speeds. I may try to do
> something with it later but for now it's sitting in my shop.
> Bill
>
>
>
>
> owner-small-list on 10/27/99 09:08:46
PM
> Please respond to small-list
> To: small-list-digest
> cc:
> Subject: FTE Small - ranger lift
>
> Well, I finally put the body lift on my 98 Ranger. Looks good so far. I
> had to undercoat the rear wheel wells and frame to clean it up a bit,
> working on underneath of front now. I am contemplating a light bar and or
> skid plate for the front.



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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 16:37:02 -0600 (Central Standard Time)
From: matthew.noffsinger murraystate.edu (Matt Noffsinger)
Subject: FTE Small - Door ajar warning

I have a 97 Ranger. It has power everything. I have noticed that for
the past two days my door ajar warning light stays on for a couple
minutes after I close the doors and start the truck. I have never
noticed it staying on but for just a couple seconds after starting it.
I double checked that both doors were completely shut. Has anyone had
similiar problems? Any ideas?
Matt

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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 18:09:55 -0500
From: "Laura D. Wheeler"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning

hi,

I also have a 97 ford ranger. This is strange, but I have been having the
same problem with my dome light. Sometimes it goes off, but other times
it just stays on, sometimes for a couple of hours. It does not matter if
the truck is running or not. It is an annoying problem, especially
driving at night with the dome light on. However, I have found that
starting my truck before I shut the door works, and the light goes off
most of the time. I am planning on taking it to the ford dealership, but
does anybody have any suggestions first?

Laura

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Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 17:31:11 -0600
From: alannorthstar mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Air vent on a 99 Ranger

On Wed, 27 Oct 1999 15:41:51 -0400, you wrote:

:I have noticed the ventilation system does not appear to work correctly =
on my
:1999 Ranger 4x4 SC with 4.0
:L engine. When I switch the fresh air vent to either the floor or dash =
level I
:always get air that is 6 to 8 degrees higher
:than the outside air. (I checked it with a thermometer). Took it to =
the
:dealer and he tells me that it is normal for these
:trucks .... but I don't remember my old 93 Ranger doing it. Anyone =
else
:notice this on their trucks ?
:Thanks
:Bill
:=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info =
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
This is because the air goes through the heater core on it's way to
you, and the only way you can turn off the hot water that keeps the
core hot is to put it in MAC AC.

It's such a pain! I like to have the windows open unless it is REALLY
too hot and I need the AC. However, the bit of warming that goes on
in VENT mode is really a piss-off!

Later,
Alan
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:09:16 -0500
From: George Kowal
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning

Don't know if the Ranger is similar, but had a similar problem as this on a
Windstar, several times actually. On that vehicle the rear door had a switch
inside on each side. The plunger on these switches would get gummed up and
cause the lights to stay on until a timer built into the vehicle turned the
lights off. Fix was to remove the trim, twist the switch assembly out, clean
it and reinstall.
Just thinking you may have something similar in the doors.

Matt Noffsinger wrote:

> I have a 97 Ranger. It has power everything. I have noticed that for
> the past two days my door ajar warning light stays on for a couple
> minutes after I close the doors and start the truck. I have never
> noticed it staying on but for just a couple seconds

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 19:19:52 -0600
From: Buck Shoff
Subject: FTE Small - 4WD repaired

The electric T-case in my 94 Ranger has been repaired. List member
Robert Hansen sent me to:
http//www.glue.umd.edu/~singletn/web/pages/tcase.html. This site
contains some great information on how to test and repair the shift
motor on the T-case. This motor lists for over $300 from Ford, and the
R and R and repair is very easy. I would reccomend this site to anyone
with a 4X4 Ranger or Explorer equipped with the electric T-case. The
Haynes manual I bought had absolutely nothing useful on the subject.
The Ford parts man that I talked to said that they sell alot of these
motors and alot of switches, but not many control boxes for this
system. I removed and took apart my switch, then checked it with a test
light. I then followed the directions at the above site to disassemble,
clean, and retime my shift motor. It now works like a champ.
Thank you Robert. If you are ever around Wichita, Ks., look me up.
I'll buy your dinner. Buck Shoff
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 20:53:37 -0500
From: "Laura D. Wheeler"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning (fwd)

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 18:09:55 -0500
From: "Laura D. Wheeler"
Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
To: Matt Noffsinger
Cc: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door ajar warning

hi,

I also have a 97 ford ranger. This is strange, but I have been having the
same problem with my dome light. Sometimes it goes off, but other times
it just stays on, sometimes for a couple of hours. It does not matter if
the truck is running or not. It is an annoying problem, especially
driving at night with the dome light on. However, I have found that
starting my truck before I shut the door works, and the light goes off
most of the time. I am planning on taking it to the ford dealership, but
does anybody have any suggestions first?

Laura

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Nov 1999 01:59:40 -0500
From: J Cope
Subject: RE: FTE Small - 84 B2 help

It sounds like you may have thrown off an emmissions sensor. I'm gonna need
some backup from someone who knows what they're talking about, but that's
the only thing I can think of...

JC

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-small-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-small-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Tom Kirkbride
Sent: Saturday, October 30, 1999 1:53 PM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Small - 84 B2 help


Last week I removed my catalytic converter from my 84 B2 4X4 V6. I cut
through the pipe that connected to it. And 2 days later it wont start.
I am assuming its because of what i did. When I try to start it, it
chugs and sounds like it wants to go but doesnt. Any ideas?

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