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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #265
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small-list-digest Tuesday, October 12 1999 Volume 03 : Number 265



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel
Re: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations
RE: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations
Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel
Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel
FTE Small - Winter Recommendations, weight placement.
Re: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations, weight placement.
FTE Small - Converter Question
Re: FTE Small - Converter Question
Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 07:14:59 -0400
From: "David A. Cooley"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel

At 10:17 PM 10/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Quick question re: the MAF sensor...can you just buy the sensor and if so,
>where? The last time I replaced mine, I had to purchase the air duct also
>($128)!
>Also, I purchased an aftermarket "bored out air duct" but have decided that
>I can't use it because the engine doesn't run right (only at idle). Is this
>because my regular size throttle body should be increased in size also? How
>about the stock exhaust? Could this be a bottle neck also? (my guess is
>yes).

You can only buy it with the housing because the sensor electronics is
calibrated to the housing.
Putting a bored out duct on will only work properly if you have the
Computer re-calibrated to the new curve of the new MAF
===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 08:38:37 -0400
From: Jean Marc Chartier
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations

C R Blanchard wrote:
>
> This seems like it would be a pretty common question, so if it's in a faq
> somewhere please point me to it.
>
> I bought my first truck, an 88 Ranger 2.9, over this past summer.
>
> I was wondering what kind of recommendations everyone has for adding
> traction in winter driving. I live in the midwest so it doesn't get too bad
> here, but bad enough that I probably need to do something. We get snow
> sometimes, but usually just sleet and freezing rain.
>
> I have heard of adding bricks, sand bags, etc... over the rear tires. How
> much weight is right? Does it have to sit over the tires? Is all the way
> back ok? Any ideas on how to keep it in one spot?
>
> I have replaced all tires recently. Is there anything besides weight and
> tires that is recommended?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

Rick,

I would also recommend you take your truck to an empty
parking lot after the first snow fall or freezing rain and
drive it in an ever shrinking figure eight to see how it
handles. Use 2x4 and 4x4 modes to become familiar with how
the truck reacts. If you use sand bags for the weights you
can use it if you get stuck to aid in getting your truck
free. Remember that anything that is not tied down inside
your truck can become a projectile in an accident. Good
luck with your new truck and enjoy. :-)

Regards

Jean Marc Chartier
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 09:09:04 -0500
From: "Tony Rio - (Chicago)"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations

Rick...

When I had my F150 I used to add eight 75 pound sandbags over the rear axel.
I placed them all the way in back, which when laying them 1 deep covered the
area just behind and over the rear axel. I had built a 2x4 jig for the
front of the bed to keep them from sliding around.

This helped keep the rear end planted quite a bit. Before I had them I was
driving to our place in Wisconsin and it was icy and windy. We litterally
got blown off the highway (we were doing a whopping 20mph down I90). I
stopped in Madison, bought some sand bags, and we had no other problems the
rest of the trip, or the rest of the winter.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-small-list ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:owner-small-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of C R Blanchard
> Sent: Saturday, October 09, 1999 11:22 PM
> To: Ford Truck List
> Subject: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations
>
>
> This seems like it would be a pretty common question, so if it's in a faq
> somewhere please point me to it.
>
> I bought my first truck, an 88 Ranger 2.9, over this past summer.
>
> I was wondering what kind of recommendations everyone has for adding
> traction in winter driving. I live in the midwest so it doesn't
> get too bad
> here, but bad enough that I probably need to do something. We get snow
> sometimes, but usually just sleet and freezing rain.
>
> I have heard of adding bricks, sand bags, etc... over the rear tires. How
> much weight is right? Does it have to sit over the tires? Is all the way
> back ok? Any ideas on how to keep it in one spot?
>
> I have replaced all tires recently. Is there anything besides weight and
> tires that is recommended?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:22:34 EDT
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel

If you replace MAF and Trottle Body you should replace the stock manifolds
with headers so your engine can breath easier. You will need to replace
your muffler with a high flow muffler. You'll definately notice an increase
in HP and gas mileage. Headers are a pain to install but they are worth it.
Also if you replace headers you should make sure they are legal where you
live. You can get 50 state legal headers from places like Summit. Lastly
if you get exhaust and a high flow muffler you will want to either "gut"
your converter or get a high flow cat. It'll make the world of difference.
The only thing is "gutting" the cat is highly illegal... Don't ask why...
You'll still pass emmissions... Good luck. Check out www.4x4 central. com
it's a great site not only for ford explorers but other ford trucks.


Happy Wheelin,

Joe :)
Slightly Modifed Ford Explorer



>From: "Kenneth St.John"
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To:
>Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel
>Date: Sun, 10 Oct 1999 22:17:59 -0700
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>
>Quick question re: the MAF sensor...can you just buy the sensor and if so,
>where? The last time I replaced mine, I had to purchase the air duct also
>($128)!
>Also, I purchased an aftermarket "bored out air duct" but have decided that
>I can't use it because the engine doesn't run right (only at idle). Is
>this
>because my regular size throttle body should be increased in size also?
>How
>about the stock exhaust? Could this be a bottle neck also? (my guess is
>yes).
>
>Thanks
>Ken
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Turner
>To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 7:56 PM
>Subject: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel
>
>
>Pings:
> The computer learns over time your 'general' driving habits and alters
>it's
>fuel/timing curves to suit so an occasional tap or two IS normal under
>circumstances you usually dont encounter. If it's happening often then yes
>the "all do that" is BS.
>
>MAFs and cleaning:
> This is information from 8-10 years ago, but at that time I was taught
>that
>to clean a MAF was to cause irrepairable long term damage to it. Does it
>apply now? I dont know... I dont care to chance it myself. As far as
>parts
>go (most) Ford MAFs arent THAT expensive and if you're looking for an
>excuse
>to get a bigger throttle body & MAF here's your sign. :-)
>
>Premium fuel:
> DONT! Use the fuel the vehicle was designed for. If the gas guage says
>"premium unleaded fuel recommended" (SHO for example) then please do, but
>otherwise do not. Slower burning fuel (higher octane)= more heavy
>hydrocarbons = more carbon deposits = ever worsening ping. I know we all
>want
>the best for our Fords but using unneeded higher octane fuel just wastes
>money
>each tank and makes for higher repair bills over time. (Hmm.. the more
>repairs y'all need the more I make.. ignore all this message
>Seriously though.. dont waste your money; just get good quality fuel of the
>grade specified in the owners manual.
>
>Tim
>Custer Auto Repair
>Wilmington NC
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com.
>=FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 10:34:10 -0400
From: David Cooley
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel

At 10:22 AM 10/11/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>If you replace MAF and Trottle Body you should replace the stock manifolds
>with headers so your engine can breath easier. You will need to replace
>your muffler with a high flow muffler. You'll definately notice an
>increase in HP and gas mileage. Headers are a pain to install but they
>are worth it. Also if you replace headers you should make sure they are
>legal where you live. You can get 50 state legal headers from places like
>Summit. Lastly if you get exhaust and a high flow muffler you will want
>to either "gut" your converter or get a high flow cat. It'll make the
>world of difference.
>The only thing is "gutting" the cat is highly illegal... Don't ask why...
>You'll still pass emmissions... Good luck. Check out www.4x4 central. com
>it's a great site not only for ford explorers but other ford trucks.

On anything newer than 96, the converter efficiency is monitored by the EEC
computer. If you gut the cat, the EEC will throw a code. Emissions may be
within spec for the model year, but a code for cat failure is immediate
failure for an emissions inspection. (Actually, any code that turns on the
Check engine light is considered immediate failure).
===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 12:05:14 -0400
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations, weight placement.

There may be some different opinions out there on where in the bed
winter weight should be placed, so I offer this discussion for your
consideration.

Assuming that winter weight was the only thing being carried in the bed.
Weight placed anywhere in the back of a truck will cause the center of
gravity to move upward and rearward. Upward due to the lifting of the front
end due to the stiffness of the suspension, rearward should be logical. Say
your 600lbs was placed ahead of the rear axle, the CG moves very slightly
upward and reasonably rearward and the truck behaves as it was designed.
That same weight placed behind the rear axle raises the CG considerably and
moves it excessively rearward. This causes the pitch and yaw mass moments
of inertia to increase dramatically. What this means to you driving the
vehicle is that your truck, which is set up to understeer at the limits when
loaded properly, will have a tendency to oversteer now. This makes it
dynamically unstable when cornering (it will have a tendency to spin out).
For example, when negotiating that freeway on ramp you use everyday, you put
in the same steering input you always do and instead of easily negotiating
the turn, you dart across 2 lanes of traffic or spin out into the divider.
SAE paper 980228 "Effects of Loading on Vehicle Handling" has an good
discussion on this topic. They test using a pick-up, a minivan, and a car.
The loading for the pick-up was excessive and I hope nobody here would be
that stupid, but it illustrates the point.

Unfortunately, if all the weight is placed ahead of the axle, you are
negating some of the benefits for traction. So there is a give and take
situation here. Personally, I place 300lbs in (6) 50lb gravel bags in 1
layer between the wheel wells for my '94 Ranger Supercab (2wd), locked in
fore and aft by 2x6 in slots in my bedliner. Some choose to go from the
axle forward. But under no circumstances should the weight be entirely
behind the rear axle. Also, all weight should be firmly secured so it is
not moving around during braking and cornering.

I'll get off my soapbox now.

Tony
'94 Ranger Supercab, 4.0L, 5-Speed.









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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 13:38:53 EDT
From: Usrock aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Winter Recommendations, weight placement.

In reference to the placement of weight during the winter months, the
following is what i have done: I placed 5 50# bags of SAND in one layer
over the rear axle secured with 2x4's in the sloths of my bedliner. This
seemed to work well for me. However, it does raise the front end slightly so
you might have to adjust your headlights a little. I use sand because if you
do happen to get stuck you can use the sand to help you get traction . I
dont recommend any more weight than this. Even 200# might be enough to give
that little bit more traction that you need.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:19:44 EDT
From: "Joe Gill"
Subject: FTE Small - Converter Question

I own a 94 Explorer. On it it has what appears to be two converters. I
recently took a closer look at the one that is closest to the back of the
vehichle and it has the tell tale honey comb patterned ceramric type
material that is usually used inside of a converter. I gutted that one and
I get a little bit better performance. What do you think the one in front
of it is?? It is connected by a small section of pipe and appears to have
something solid in it. I don't know for sure yet what is is though. Do you
think if I gut that one I will get a check engine light?? Also if I indeed
get a check engine light do you think if I replaced my converter with a high
flow cat that it will solve the problem?? I seriously dought that my
converter is hooked to my EEC because a friend of mine did that to his 94
pick up and it gave him no trouble codes or lights.

Also do you think that adding a bigger throttle body, MAF, Headers, CAM,
chip and lower thermastat would do anything that would throw off the
computer?? If so what do you do to get around that?? Do you think if I did
all those mods to my 4 liter, that it would be detrimental to it?? I'd have
my mechanic install the headers and cam shaft, but I'd do the rest.

Happy wheelin,

Joe :)

______________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 21:52:15 -0400
From: "David A. Cooley"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Converter Question

At 09:19 PM 10/11/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I own a 94 Explorer. On it it has what appears to be two converters. I
>recently took a closer look at the one that is closest to the back of the
>vehichle and it has the tell tale honey comb patterned ceramric type
>material that is usually used inside of a converter. I gutted that one
>and I get a little bit better performance. What do you think the one in
>front of it is?? It is connected by a small section of pipe and appears
>to have something solid in it. I don't know for sure yet what is is
>though. Do you think if I gut that one I will get a check engine
>light?? Also if I indeed get a check engine light do you think if I
>replaced my converter with a high flow cat that it will solve the
>problem?? I seriously dought that my converter is hooked to my EEC
>because a friend of mine did that to his 94 pick up and it gave him no
>trouble codes or lights.


That other one is a "Pre-Cat" For some reason, Ford's engines don't keep
the standard cat lit off at idle so they add the pre-cat to light off the
main. The cat's aren't hooked to the EEC in any vehicle... there is an O2
sensor before them in all years after 81 or so, and a second O2 sensor
after the cat on 96 and newer models to measure the cat's efficiency.
On your 94, you won't set a code related to the cat by gutting both, but
you won't pass emissions either. Depending on how closely the cal in the
EEC is set (amount of variance in fuel management allowed etc) you may set
off a code of too lean, as it cannot increase the fuel enough for the
increased airflow. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator will cure that.


>Also do you think that adding a bigger throttle body, MAF, Headers, CAM,
>chip and lower thermastat would do anything that would throw off the
>computer?? If so what do you do to get around that?? Do you think if I
>did all those mods to my 4 liter, that it would be detrimental to
>it?? I'd have my mechanic install the headers and cam shaft, but I'd do
>the rest.

With all the mods, you'd definitely need the chip to be custom programmed
for your mods or it 1) would run like crap, 2) would set many codes.
Big cams play havoc with the computer, as the bigger the cam and the more
overlap (what causes the lopey idle on really healthy motors) is seen as an
error by the MAP and/or MAF...

===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 23:45:19 -0700
From: "Kenneth St.John"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel

Ok, so how do I get the computer recalibrated? I thought just by
disconnecting the battery then reconnecting would reset the electronics and
therefore, cause the system to relearn???

Ken

- -----Original Message-----
From: David A. Cooley
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Monday, October 11, 1999 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pings, MAFs & premium fuel


>At 10:17 PM 10/10/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>Quick question re: the MAF sensor...can you just buy the sensor and if so,
>>where? The last time I replaced mine, I had to purchase the air duct also
>>($128)!
>>Also, I purchased an aftermarket "bored out air duct" but have decided
that
>>I can't use it because the engine doesn't run right (only at idle). Is
this
>>because my regular size throttle body should be increased in size also?
How
>>about the stock exhaust? Could this be a bottle neck also? (my guess is
>>yes).
>
>You can only buy it with the housing because the sensor electronics is
>calibrated to the housing.
>Putting a bored out duct on will only work properly if you have the
>Computer re-calibrated to the new curve of the new MAF
>===========================================================
> David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT ....


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