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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #237
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small-list-digest Tuesday, September 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 237



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - re: Pirelli tires & tailgate Q
FTE Small - 88 bII overheating
Re: FTE Small - 2 WD does not suck...
FTE Small - 2wd does not suck
RE: FTE Small - tailgate / mileage Q
RE: FTE Small - tailgate / mileage Q
Re: FTE Small - 88 bii overheating!!
Re: FTE Small - 88 bii overheating!!
RE: FTE Small - tailgate / mileage Q
Re: FTE Small - Vacuum assist fuel pumps
FTE Small - Trans Fluid in Oil
FTE Small - RE: voltmeter
FTE Small - 1982 F100
Re: FTE Small - 1982 F100
AW: FTE Small - RE: voltmeter

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 06:21:49 -0400
From: Dwight Varnes
Subject: FTE Small - re: Pirelli tires & tailgate Q

Tailgate down = better mileage. A very long time ago a magazine I used
to get tested various things to see the effect on mileage. The tailgate
acts as a big air brake and creates lots of drag. Simply lowering the
gate would raise the mpg of a full-size truck by I think 3 or more. A
bed cover did the same thing. Caps were inconsistent, depending on the
design. I don't think they had Gator-net type things back then. In my
state, though, we have dumb laws that say you can't drive without a gate
or with one lowered and no flag on the end of it. And the net-type
things aren't legal for state inspection.

Pirelli Scorpions--I can only offer that they aren't very noisy. Only
had mine for a few thousand before selling the truck. I had no
complaints with them.
- --
Dwight Varnes, insurance appraiser and car nut
1970 124 Spider (restored, mostly)
1986 Audi Coupe GT (bigger engine STILL at machine shop)
1989 VW Jetta GLI 16v (the wife's ride, tired but loyal)
1984 Nissan 4x4 Pickup (SOLD, celebrate with me)
1965 Buick Skylark conv. (unrestored, for sale)
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 03:50:14 PDT
From: "David Goodwin"
Subject: FTE Small - 88 bII overheating

There's also an issue coupled with this: when I turned on the
heat in the
beginning (before it got incredibly hot), it worked (it blew hot
air)
However, when It became very hot, the heat did not work
anymore.. it blew
cool air in. Does this mean something?

Steve,

That's pretty typical...As your fan draws air across your heater core, when
it is full of hot water, you get heat. If your heater core is just full of
steam, there isn't enough water to draw heat from.

Dave

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 10:25:02 -0400
From: "Kenneth J. Nagy"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 2 WD does not suck...

It's too bad all this got started just because somebody asked a question
about his 4 wheel drive not working.

Ken


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 07:16:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Ed Knight
Subject: FTE Small - 2wd does not suck

Yes, "Iron Man" Jackson, I have pre-run a couple of courses over the years It's not all hard-pack, there is some loose stuff. But it is still a trail, and speed is the key to skimming along and clearing most of the obstacles. That's why it's called a race. Off-road four-wheeling is about as far from a 'race' as you can get. Taking your time to pick the right line and get a little farther than the last guy that was here is the challenge, not speed.

I didn't say 2WD is no good. They can be excellent on or off-road, especially if you have a locking rear diff. Then you can go most places the average 4wd can go. But I am more into OFF-road trails, exploring, mild rock crawling, etc. now and believe me, the more wheels that pull, the better. Like I said, both can be very good, but as I said COMMON SENSE will tell you that when you're scrambling for traction, MORE IS BETTER! Let the activity you're doing determine what equipment you use.

As I've also said before, there's room for everyone, with all kind of different trucks, and all kind of different activities. If we all liked/drove/did the same thing, it'd be pretty boring...

By the way, in case you didn't notice, I'm agreeing - 2wd does not suck.
Ed


carolina_express go.com




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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 17:01:54 +0300
From: Bolte Brent
Subject: RE: FTE Small - tailgate / mileage Q

Will,
That depends upon who you listen to. The companies that make
the tailgate nets surely will tell you that they help mileage and most of
the
people that have them installed in their trucks will probably tell you they
help too ( whether they really do or not ). If they told you anything else
the companies would be admitting that the are marketing a product that
does nothing and the people using them would be admitting they wasted
their money ( and you know that wouldn't happen ).
General Motors did a test a few years ago in one of their wind
tunnels when they were working on designs for their new pickups ( a
friend of mine that works for GM was lucky enough to be able to sit in
on this test ), and one of the things they noticed was that having a solid
tailgate on the truck actually helped smooth the airflow over the truck,
which reduced aerodynamic drag and ended up increasing fuel
economy ( remember any decrease in aerodynamic drag will decrease
the horsepower required to move the truck down the road and will
increase fuel economy ). Having the solid tailgate on the truck helped
create a high pressure "bubble" in the pickup box that created a
cushion for the air flowing off of the back of the cab to ride on ( this
high pressure bubble is created by small amounts of air being trapped
in the pickup box by the tailgate ). This decreased the tendency of
the air to swirl as it left the back of the cab ( and swirling air creates
aerodynamic drag ) and moved the air flowing over the pickup bed up
causing the majority of the air flowing over the truck to go out over
the top of the tailgate. When the tailgate was removed, the high
pressure "bubble" of air went away and almost all of the air flowing
off the back of the cab would swirl causing high amounts of
aerodynamic drag ( which causes the truck to need more horsepower
going down the road and therefore decreases fuel economy ). The
test showed that the small amount of aerodynamic drag produced
by having the solid tailgate installed ( which ended up producing the
"bubble" that smoothed air flow over the truck ), was more than made
up for by the giant reduction in overall aerodynamic drag over the entire
truck ( which created an overall increase in mileage ). With the tailgate
removed however, you did loose the small amount of aerodynamic
drag created by the tailgate catching air, but that was replaced with
a large amount of aerodynamic drag being produced by the air swirling
off of the back of the cab ( which created an overall decrease in mileage ).
The "cargo nets" are supposed to give you the affect of no tailgate while
still being able to put stuff in the pickup box without it sliding out. If
GM's
tests are correct this would mean you would end up doing more harm
than good by replacing your solid tailgate with "cargo net" type of device.


Disclaimer: I do not own a pickup and so I haven't ever tried a test of
tailgate vs. no tailgate as it applies to fuel economy. This is simply an
overview of the details of a test GM did which showed that having a
solid tailgate actually caused a truck to get better fuel economy than
a truck with out a tailgate ( or with one of the "cargo net" devices ).

Thanks, Brent Bolte

On Sun, 12 Sep 1999, Will Brown wrote:

>Will lowering the tailgate, or replacing fixed tailgate with one of
>those "cargo nets" improve or worsen gas mileage?

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 09:31:50 -0500
From: "Tony Rio - www.tigroup-usa.com (Chicago)"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - tailgate / mileage Q

I did own a 94 F150 and from experince can say the net are a waste. I gotat
least 3mpg better with the solid tailgate. Also, in slick, wet weather the
rear-end stayed planted on the roadway A LOT better.

It was a 94 F150
4.9L I6
8' bed
standard cab
stock tire size


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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:00:05 EDT
From: "Joe Scott"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 88 bii overheating!!

The thermostat sounds like a good idea to me, but I would wait on the water
pump. Generally speaking, they work unless they leak. It wouldn't hurt to do
a compression check as well. I've been told that the heads don't like to get
hot, and they warp when they do. If you found you had no water(antifreeze),
the question is, where did it go? You re-filled the radiator with straight
water( I hope the engine was running at the time) and then overheated again.
If the heads are warped, the hot gasses escape into the water jackets and
superheat the cooling system. You wrote that the water that came out when it
overheated again was brown. A good flush of the engine and radiator wouldn't
hurt either. A good indicator of built up gunk in the cooling system is to
drain the radiator and look into the fill cap with a flashlight. If you see
any sort of crust on the ends of the cross tubes, it's time to flush the
system.
I hope I've been helpful without bearing bad news.
joe

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:28:55 -0400
From: David Cooley
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 88 bii overheating!!

At 11:00 AM 9/13/1999 -0400, you wrote:
>The thermostat sounds like a good idea to me, but I would wait on the
>water pump. Generally speaking, they work unless they leak. It wouldn't
>hurt to do a compression check as well. I've been told that the heads
>don't like to get hot, and they warp when they do. If you found you had no
>water(antifreeze), the question is, where did it go? You re-filled the
>radiator with straight water( I hope the engine was running at the time)
>and then overheated again. If the heads are warped, the hot gasses escape
>into the water jackets and superheat the cooling system. You wrote that
>the water that came out when it overheated again was brown. A good flush
>of the engine and radiator wouldn't hurt either. A good indicator of built
>up gunk in the cooling system is to drain the radiator and look into the
>fill cap with a flashlight. If you see any sort of crust on the ends of
>the cross tubes, it's time to flush the system.
>I hope I've been helpful without bearing bad news.

I really hate to say it, but I've seen more bad water pumps that didn't
leak than leakers.
The main fault has been the impeller coming off the shaft so the pump no
longer circulates the water. Corrosion is the major cause.
At $35.00 for a new pump, on a 10 year old motor, why take the chance of
heating it up again and cracking a block, head, blowing a head gasket etc.

===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:40:31 -0700
From: Mike Topping
Subject: RE: FTE Small - tailgate / mileage Q

One additional point is that with the tailgate in place you have much
better structural rigidity in the event of a roll-over or
accident....Personally, I could care less about the alleged additional 1~ 3
mpg (even if true) because I like my stuff to stay in the truck without
worry over a net being unhooked or broken.

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 11:43:44 -0700
From: Mike Topping
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Vacuum assist fuel pumps

At 08:22 PM 9/11/99 -0400, you wrote:
>At 04:14 PM 9/11/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>What was it posted a few days ago about poor gas milage and the vacuum
>>link that attaches the fuel line to the engine? Somebody said something
>>about disconnecting that vacuum line that goes from the intake manifold
>>to the little black gadget above the high pressure fuel pump.
>>
>>I am getting about 14 MPG with new plugs, wires, MSD Ignition, Mobile 1
>>Tri-synthetic, Flowmasters, 31" BFG and an engine that doesn't leak or
>>burn any oil...
>
>
>There is a vacuum line that goes to the fuel pressure regulator on the fuel
>rail. The regulators fail and when they do they usually pump fuel up the
>vacuum line into the engine.
>Couldn't be the weight of your foot causing the mileage problem?

Yeah, I've suffered the "engine full of fuel" phenomenon - would have hated
to have that stuff catch fire after I fixed the regulator - truck smoked
like a demon - it took me a few minutes to figure out what was going on. I
guess the engine internals got clean though!

Mike Topping
85 Ranger, 207K and still going
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 15:31:33 -0400
From: Kerry Schutt
Subject: FTE Small - Trans Fluid in Oil

Does anyone know if it possible to get transmission fluid into the engine oil in a '91/'92 Ford Explorer? I was asked the question today and didn't have an answer. A friend has a problem with his transmission fluid level going down at the same time as his oil level goes up. He just had some major engine work done including rear oil seal and some head work.

Thanks,
Kerry

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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 16:59:17 -0700
From: "Allerheiligen, Brad"
Subject: FTE Small - RE: voltmeter

Hey I have a 94 Ranger, and guess what?............ Same problem! My
solution so far has been to smack the dash above the meter "Fonzie" style,
and it should return to the normal position. This will only work when the
truck is running. It looks a little funny, and people usually assume you are
really mad at something, but at least the gauge functions, 'til final
failure that is.

- -Brad-
94 Ranger XLT 4x2 (NSTYXLT)
4.0 w/KKM Tru-Rev, 73mm MAF, BBK headers, Flowmaster muffler.
5" Suspension lift, 31x10.5x15 BFG's.


- -----Original Message-----
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 21:38:18 -0500
From: Buck Shoff
Subject: FTE Small - voltmeter

Hi all. I have a 94 Ranger. Coming home from work today the voltmeter
took a hike. The needle usually stays straight down during engine
operation, which is about midway between 8 and 18 volts on the guage.
The needle swung up to about 10 or 11 o'clock and stayed there, which is
off the scale. Everything else electrical seems to be working fine. The
other guages are all read normal. I ran a voltmeter across the batery.
With the engine off I get 12.5 volts. With it running I get 13.8 or
13.9. This seems ok to me. Can anyone think of anything else besides a
bad guage? The only other thing I can think of is that the truck was
made in October of 93, making the battery almost 6 years old. Could a
shorted or open battery cause this? Any help would be appreciated.
Buck Shoff
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 17:21:16 -0700
From: Sandra Kneib
Subject: FTE Small - 1982 F100

I am purchasing a 1982 Explorer Ford F100 from a friend. The book is long
gone. I want to purchase a small slide in camper. I found the perfect 1972
camper that weighs 1800 dry weight. Because I have no idea what the
carrying capacity is of my truck I am hesitant. I know I can add helper
springs, but will it be enough? I hate to ruin my truck but the camper is
such a good deal and perfect for my family. Maybe I would be better off
towing one, though I had a pull type trailer before and hated it. Any and
all ideas would be greatly appreciated
**Sandie**
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Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 21:58:30 EDT
From: ROlson1039 aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 1982 F100

first of all you're on the wrong list.. F 100 is a full size truck and
Explorer then was a line of trim level. Later Ford used that name for their
wagon based on the pickuptruck, which is still in production today.You need
the 80-96 list
As a former full size truck owner, however
a ton. and the camper should work well with that truck. You can also upgrade
to the half ton springs that will help ya support the extra weight of the
camper. at the time you install the springs id put an extra heavy duty
Gabriel shock in that truck too . Thant should do the trick.
Bob
former 89 F 250 owner
current 99 Ranger and caravan owner
Rolson1039 aol.com
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Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 08:59:41 +0200
From: "Ucen, Thomas, PRE"
Subject: AW: FTE Small - RE: voltmeter

Ha,ha....reminds me of my mum who couldn't believe her tank was close =
to
empty in her old Passat so she kept smacking the dash and the needle =
moved.
Naturally, she ran out of gas a number of times but she wouldn't learn.

Keep on smacking....errr...trucking!

Tom
1993 Aerostar Ext. 3.0L

- -----Urspr=FCngliche Nachricht-----
Von: Allerheiligen, Brad [mailto:BAllerheiligen kbhomes.com]
Gesendet am: Dienstag, 14. September 1999 01:59
An: 'small-list ford-trucks.com'
Betreff: FTE Small - RE: voltmeter

Hey I have a 94 Ranger, and guess what?............ Same problem! My
solution so far has been to smack the dash above the meter "Fonzie" =
style,
and it should return to the normal position. This will only work when =
the
truck is running. It looks a little funny, and people usually assume =
you are
really mad at something, but at least the gauge functions, 'til final
failure that is.

- -Brad-
94 Ranger XLT 4x2 (NSTYXLT)
4.0 w/KKM Tru-Rev, 73mm MAF, BBK headers, Flowmaster muffler.
5" Suspension lift, 31x10.5x15 BFG's.


- -----Original Message-----
Date: Thu, 09 Sep 1999 21:38:18 -0500
From: Buck Shoff
Subject: FTE Small - voltmeter

Hi all. I have a 94 Ranger. Coming home from work today the voltmeter
took a hike. The needle usually stays straight down during engine
operation, which is about midway between 8 and 18 volts on the guage.=20
The needle swung up to about 10 or 11 o'clock and stayed there, which =
is
off the scale. Everything else electrical seems to be working fine. =
The
other guages are all read normal. I ran a voltmeter across the batery.=20
With the engine off I get 12.5 volts. With it running I get 13.8 or
13.9. This seems ok to me. Can anyone think of anything else besides =....


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