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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #191
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small-list-digest Friday, July 30 1999 Volume 03 : Number 191



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)
RE: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)
FTE Small - Forwarded for "Anthony Rio"
Re: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)
[none]
FTE Small - Your A4LD Trans
Re: FTE Small - Your A4LD Trans
FTE Small - ranger question
Re: FTE Small - ranger question
Re: FTE Small - ranger question
FTE Small - Oil Pressure Guage
Re: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)
Re: FTE Small - Oil Pressure Guage
Re: FTE Small - Oil Pressure Guage
FTE Small - Re: Leg to stand on.....I think not...
Re: FTE Small - Auto Hub lock nut socket

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 07:20:11 -0700
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)

The advice here is good. The way you use a 9v battery to test speaker
polarity is to simply connect the battery to the speaker and see which
way the cone moves at the moment of contact. Or you can disconnect the
plug at the amp end and connect the battery to all the speakers there:
this way, you can test all the speakers from the same source. I'd
recommend keeping the amp/radio out of the loop so as not to fry the
output transistors with the battery. I've also used a 1.5 volt battery
for this. You won't damage the speakers either way.

About imaging: it is hard enough to get it right in a home stereo
system. To get realistic imaging (hell, any imaging) in a motor vehicle
is a lot of BS. It's just about impossible.

Richard


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 09:52:08 -0500
From: "Tony Rio (Chicago)"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)

True about getting any sort of accurate imaging in a vehicle. Especially on
the low end, part of the sound is based on pressure (air movement) May
sound great, but try it with the windows open. Also, too much fabric and
other sound absorbing materials in the cab to make the sound reproduction
"accurate". Too many right angles. Ever see a concert or symphony hall?
Not a 90 degree angle in the place.

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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 08:15:51 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: FTE Small - Forwarded for "Anthony Rio"

Forwarded for "Anthony Rio"

Correct. If they are not hooked up correctly, they will be "out of phase".
If I remember correctly, that means the sound waves from each speaker are
directly opposite of each other and effectvly c*ncel each other out. Try it
on your home stereo if you have spring connectors on the speakers or amp.
The sound will be tinny.. no low end (and not just thump your skull low.
You will barly even hear a bass guitar in music).

>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Donald Paauw
> To:
> Sent: 28/7/99 6:31 PM
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)
>
>
> >
> >> 2) Is there an easy way to tell which wire goes to which part of the
> >> speaker? It seems that it doesn't matter, but I read that if you put
> them
> >> backwards, the speaker vibrates in the wrong direction. The
> adapter used
> on
> >> my stock speakers did not work with the `95 ones, so I pulled the wires
> out
> >> and stuck them in the slots in the new adapter.
> >
> >I would think the wires can go on either way.
> >
> >>
> >> 3) On the speakers I took out, one of them had a sticker on
> the back that
> >> said "Premium Sound". Does this mean my BII had the premium sound
> option?
> >> I know the system still sucks, but I know the premium sound
> option had an
> >> amp seperate from the receiver.. how do I figure out if I have this amp
> and
> >> where can I find it?
> >
> >In my '88 Ranger, the extra amp was accessible through a panel in the top
> of the dash.
> >WARNING: this amp is supported by plastic insulating spacers.
> The case is
> NOT ground
> >and if you let the case touch the dash while the radio is on, the whole
> system will
> >be toast. Then you install an Alpine system.
> >
> >>
> >> 4) How do remove the stock stereo from my BII? I know the new
> ones have
> a U
> >> shaped tool, but mine doesn't look so easy.
> >
> >Yep, sounds like the premium sound type. The radio is attached by an
> L-shaped bracket
> >on each side. The dash panel has to come off & then the screws
> holding the
>> L brackets are
> >removed.
> >
> >
> >-- Don
> >== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>


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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:58:27 GMT
From: alannorthstar mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)

On Wed, 28 Jul 1999 18:22:22 -0500, you wrote:

:Donald Paauw wrote:
:
:
:> I would think the wires can go on either way.
:=20
:Please ignore this advice, as it is dead wrong. The right and left
:speakers must be wired in phase, i.e., with the cones moving in and
:out simultaneously. Reverse the phasing and you will degrade both
:bass response and imaging.=20

Not to mention that any mono material in the signal will tend to be
canceled out completely if the speakers are in opposite phase to each
other.

Later,
Alan



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 12:09:04 PDT
From: "Bill Carlson"
Subject: [none]

Hi,
I have a 90' Ford Ranger XLT with a 2.9 auto. The truck jumps whenever I
put it in reverse, but does not jump into any other gear. Its not really
that bad, but I am wondering why it does this, and hopefully it is pretty
easy to fix. Thanks.

Billy

56 Ford F100
90 Ford Ranger


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:20:29 EDT
From: BiggRanger aol.com
Subject: FTE Small - Your A4LD Trans

I'd reccomend draining all the trans fluid, dropping the pan, replacing the
fluid filter, and pulling the vavle bady down and cleaning it out. It's
probably a high milage trans and there's a lot of junk floating around (small
bits of metal, fiber from clutch packs and bands) that's causing the pistons
in the valve body to stick.

I'd also reccomend a good trans book for this typee of job (Chiltons domestic
trans manual)

Darren
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:47:06 EDT
From: Rngr86STX aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Your A4LD Trans

OR go to your nearest Ford dealer and buy an ATSG (automatic transmission
service group) book for the A4LD. EXCELLENT book. I used to rebuild mine and
its very descriptive and easy.good luck
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 16:16:36 -0400
From: Don Canavan
Subject: FTE Small - ranger question

I have a 98 ranger 4 liter v-6 with an automatic transmision and four wheel
drive. It is only three quarters of a year old. I have noticed that when I
come to a complete stop(such as at a red light)and start out again there is
a very slight ????Quiver???? (not to sure how to explain it) It is fairly
faint, but noticable. Other than this there seem to be no problem. Is this
normal, it is my first truck so I have no idea.
thanks in advance

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 22:23:29 GMT
From: alannorthstar mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - ranger question

On Thu, 29 Jul 1999 16:16:36 -0400, you wrote:

:I have a 98 ranger 4 liter v-6 with an automatic transmision and four =
wheel
:drive. It is only three quarters of a year old. I have noticed that when=
I
:come to a complete stop(such as at a red light)and start out again there=
is
:a very slight ????Quiver???? (not to sure how to explain it) It is =
fairly
:faint, but noticable. Other than this there seem to be no problem. Is =
this
:normal, it is my first truck so I have no idea.=20
: thanks in advance
:
I have a 98 with the 3 liter engine, auto tranny and 4x4 and it has
started doing a little "bump" when I start out from a stop. It sorta
acts like the rear axle is rotating a bit under the thrust of the
acceleration. =20

Don't know that is the cause, but it sorta feels like that. =20

Also, if you let up on the gas right away, it will "bump" back, again.

This bump is a fairly solid thing, and it's coming through the
frame/body of the truck-- it isn't a loose seat or anything.

Anyone else have this thing happening? =20

And/or know what it is?

Later,
Alan
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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:46:17 -0400
From: Phil Snider
Subject: Re: FTE Small - ranger question

Don,

I had a '97 Range Xcab 4.0l 5 speed AOD that had a little vibration like that.
It turned out to be a driveline vibration at approximately 1500 rpm. I could
maintain that vibration if I went up a steep hill 1500. The Ford regional
rep, Mr. Stewart Sonnan said the problem could NOT be fixed. I was amazed at
his response. I've since traded that vehicle because of that problem and many
others. From what I've been told, the '97 has a two piece drive shaft and that
was a part of the problem. The '98 is based on the Explorer platform and has a
one piece drive shaft. In your case, it may be the U-joints need to be looked
at. I've heard of Rangers and Mustangs with U-joint bolts that weren't
tightened.

Phil Snider


Don Canavan wrote:

> I have a 98 ranger 4 liter v-6 with an automatic transmision and four wheel
> drive. It is only three quarters of a year old. I have noticed that when I
> come to a complete stop(such as at a red light)and start out again there is
> a very slight ????Quiver???? (not to sure how to explain it) It is fairly
> faint, but noticable. Other than this there seem to be no problem. Is this
> normal, it is my first truck so I have no idea.
> thanks in advance
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:47:30 -0700
From: Adam McLaughlin
Subject: FTE Small - Oil Pressure Guage

Hi!

I would like to add an oil pressure guage to my 1988 2.9 V6 Bronco 2.
Has anyone ever done this? Does anyone know how easy it is to install
something like this? Any suggestions of how it should be done? I was
looking at the Chilton's manual, but it isn't exactly specific on where
it is and how to get to it....

Thanks in advance,

Adam

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 18:54:34 -0700
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)

> From owner-small-list ford-trucks.com Thu Jul 29 09:02 PDT 1999
> From: alannorthstar mindspring.com
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Audio: Rear Speakers (88 EB Bii 4x4 Auto)
> Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 15:58:27 GMT
> X-Mailer: Forte Agent 1.5/32.451
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> Sender: owner-small-list ford-trucks.com
> Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
> X-MIME-Autoconverted: from quoted-printable to 8bit by orlando.neomagic.com id JAA05302
>
> On Wed, 28 Jul 1999 18:22:22 -0500, you wrote:
>
> :Donald Paauw wrote:
> :
> :
> :> I would think the wires can go on either way.
> :
> :Please ignore this advice, as it is dead wrong. The right and left
> :speakers must be wired in phase, i.e., with the cones moving in and
> :out simultaneously. Reverse the phasing and you will degrade both
> :bass response and imaging.
>
> Not to mention that any mono material in the signal will tend to be
> canceled out completely if the speakers are in opposite phase to each
> other.
>
> Later,
> Alan
>

This would mean that if you hooked your speakers out of phase and tuned in to an AM
radio station (mono), you would hear nothing. That has not been my experience.

In a controlled home environment, phasing is PART of the correct setup. So is speaker
placement and the position of the listener. Whenever you have two wave sources (sound,
radio, electrical, light) interfering with each other, you're going to get peaks and nulls
between them at various points at various frequencies. It's unavoidable.
Add reflections from some nearby surfaces and absorption from others and the whole thing
gets pretty messy. Especially in a car or truck where the distance between reflective
surfaces is very small compared to the wavelengths involved.
This is highly conducive to standing waves, except the surfaces aren't parallel.
You can theoretically get a higher frequency synthesized from multiple reflections of a lower
frequency. Of course, this requires perfect conditions and with a normal sound source such as
music or speech, it would be so fleeting that it wouldn't be noticed. But that's not about
phasing.

On to phasing.
In a vehicle, the speakers are placed who-knows-where and point who-knows-where (usually
pointing at each other or bouncing off a windshield) with the listener sitting between them
(or at least his legs are between them).
So the waves aren't going to reach each ear as they would at home. Also, the listener is usally
not equidistant from each speaker. Not good for phase matching on some point of the spectrum.
And the driver is next to the left speaker while the passenger is next to the right.
Who has the better listening experience?
(The passenger, but it's because he's not driving). It's this haphazard positioning and unpredictable
reflection/absorption charateristics that make me question the importance of speaker phasing in
an automotive environment. In a high end luxury car with an umpteen speaker stereo option, I
would say some thought may have been given to the acoutics. But not in a truck.

Now I'm not saying that changing the phase relationship of the speakers won't make a difference;
it will. But is it an important difference, considering everything else? Could be. If you are
convinced that it is, connect the wires with the stripes to the speaker terminals with the dots.
( It's the wires that can be tricky; the speaker terminals are usually easy to identify since the
speakers should be identical. If they're not, you've got another factor involved.)
And I'll agree that it's usually best to hook things up the way the manufacturer intended.
But for me, I've tried it both ways and all I have to say is:

You might be a redneck if -- You wire your truck speakers out of phase and can't notice a difference.

Or maybe my muffler has something to do with it (ruins the signal-to-noise ratio, don't ya know).


- -- Don



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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 19:31:48 -0700
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Oil Pressure Guage

>
> Hi!
>
> I would like to add an oil pressure guage to my 1988 2.9 V6 Bronco 2.
> Has anyone ever done this? Does anyone know how easy it is to install
> something like this? Any suggestions of how it should be done? I was
> looking at the Chilton's manual, but it isn't exactly specific on where
> it is and how to get to it....
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Adam
>
I was going to put one in my '88 Ranger a while back and as I recall, the
stock sender is on the bottom of the engine, driver's side and looks like
a small, bell-shaped can. It's screwed in and has a wire clipped onto a
terminal on the bottom. I wanted to add a mechanical guage to mine but
also wanted to keep the idiot light, since I've never had a guage & wouldn't
be in the habit of checking it often. My plan was to use a brass tee fitting
to mount the original sender & attach the tubing for the mechanical guage but
the result put the sender pretty low & I was afraid it would get knocked off.
Anyway, the Ranger's getting a 5.0 soon so that's history.

Hope this helps.

- -- Don
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 19:57:17 -0700
From: Adam McLaughlin
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Oil Pressure Guage

Yeah, I had heard about the brass t fitting and all. The motor in there doesn'
burn or leak any synthetic, so I would like to keep the motor in there.... It
would be a nice addition to someone who combs his car all of the time...

Adam

Donald Paauw wrote:

> >
> > Hi!
> >
> > I would like to add an oil pressure guage to my 1988 2.9 V6 Bronco 2.
> > Has anyone ever done this? Does anyone know how easy it is to install
> > something like this? Any suggestions of how it should be done? I was
> > looking at the Chilton's manual, but it isn't exactly specific on where
> > it is and how to get to it....
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Adam
> >
> I was going to put one in my '88 Ranger a while back and as I recall, the
> stock sender is on the bottom of the engine, driver's side and looks like
> a small, bell-shaped can. It's screwed in and has a wire clipped onto a
> terminal on the bottom. I wanted to add a mechanical guage to mine but
> also wanted to keep the idiot light, since I've never had a guage & wouldn't
> be in the habit of checking it often. My plan was to use a brass tee fitting
> to mount the original sender & attach the tubing for the mechanical guage but
> the result put the sender pretty low & I was afraid it would get knocked off.
> Anyway, the Ranger's getting a 5.0 soon so that's history.
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> -- Don
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 21:09:58 -0700
From: "Robert Eberhardt"
Subject: FTE Small - Re: Leg to stand on.....I think not...

If you are the same person I remember a couple of months back, then I still
can't believe they tried to fix your Explorer. Over here in the States, it
would have surely been considered "totaled". Your insurance company would
have paid you the total amount that similar equipped Explorers were selling
for. Does the UK have insurance? Over here in the States I would say you are
well within your rights to demand a replacement vehicle or the value of an
identical one to buy what you want. If the UK is even remotely similar to
the States then I would say that it would apply there as well. Don't accept
your Explorer in that condition! And, continue to keep us informed as to
what happens. I am sure there are several people here besides myself that
are interested.

Robert

>------------------------------
>
>Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 21:42:52 +0100
>From: "Neil Brownlee"
>Subject: FTE Small - Leg to stand on.....I think not...
>
>Hi,
>
>You may or may not remember me, I've been hanging around the list for ages,
>and my Explorer was in an accident some 20 weeks ago, well on Friday I got
>it back. It's not taxed, and after doing a whole 200 yards up the drive
it's
>clunking into gear, shaking, hissing in reverse and p*ssing water out of
the
>exhausts about midway along the vehicle.
>
>Anyway to top it all, the check engine light is now on. The paintwork is
>amateurish, the cubby box won't close anymore, the windscreen is 7.5mm too
>far over allowing you to put your fingers in the gap between it and the
>body...the front tyre is torn, there is overspray all over the plastic...oh
>and the nearside glass is all scratched.
>
>Sucks...do you think I am within my rights to demand a vehicle of similar
>age and mileage in replacement? Plase help....we have no rights over here
in
>the UK :( BTW it had a new frame....so they have tried to rebuild it......
>
>Neil....


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