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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #175
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small-list-digest Wednesday, July 14 1999 Volume 03 : Number 175



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Small - Answers to Ranger questions
RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade
RE: FTE Small - brake warning lights
RE: FTE Small - brake warning lights
RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade
FTE Small - Brake warning light
[none]
FTE Small - Driving Lights Recommendation

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 08:58:33 -0500
From: Mike Harms
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Answers to Ranger questions

For those that don't know about it yet, if you have the 2.9 ranger and any
questions check out Kunz Korner discussion group at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.ford ranger. com/boards.html. Anything you ever wanted to know is
available.

Specifically, great success has been found with the Fel-Pro part # VS50312T
valve cover gaskets. They usually need to be special ordered, and they're
not as cheap as the standard gaskets, but they have been widely reported to
work well.

Not all 2.9's run cool. The key is to make sure they stay running cool.
Ford 2.9 engines prior to 89 have a history of cracking heads due to a
design issue if overheated. 89 and on have a slightly different design that
alleviated the most serious issue with cracked heads but they are still more
prone to it than other engines. Remember, cool doesn't mean go stick
160degree thermostats in the engine. You still need to let it get up to
operating temperature for the computer to go into closed loop mode. 180 is
about as cool as you want to go. Otherwise your fuel economy and
performance could suffer.


>Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 15:35:50 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Troy Reifsnider
>Subject: FTE Small - Answers to Ranger questions
...
>My 2.9 was covered in oil all over the tranny and block sides. It
>turned out to be just valve cover gaskets. The oil runs down the side
>and back of the engine. 2.9 valve covers NEVER stop leaking (they just
>slow down)
...
>My 2.9 (the left to right gauge) takes forever to get to the M in
>normal (which is usaual warm up) In these harsh WI winters the thing
>rarely reads above R in normal. The 2.9 is very cold blooded - don't
>worry about it.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 09:06:55 -0500
From: Kevin Arnold
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade

Ray,

Go to this web site. The guys name is Andy and the site is totally kickass. It shows exactly how to install the kit of your model truck.

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alaska.net/~ranger/truck/index.htm

- -Kevin
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Scheidnes [SMTP:ray_scheidnes nacm.com]
Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 5:32 PM
To: 'small-list ford-trucks.com'
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade

I have a '94 Ranger with the 4.0 motor. I called up K&N and they said that
they don't have an induction kit for my truck, nor did it sound like they
planned to make one.
I purchased the KKM intake kit, but haven't installed it yet. I tried once,
but noticed that things don't fit that well. The support bracket doesn't
mount up to any "preexisting hole" and the new airtube seems to want to rest
on the hot radiator hose. There is a hose between the add oil thing and the
factory airtube, but it's too short for the kit. I also realized that I
have to remove the blanket inside the hood, because it was mashing
everything together. I emailed KKM and they said to remove the blanket
(they said that the hood will be fine) so I did. I still need the longer
hose and they still insist that there should be an existing hole for the
support bracket on the kit. I really don't want to drill any holes at all,
but I will if it's necessary, I guess. Other ideas have been tossed around
by other people here, but many still believe that this will help me out as I
have headers and 2.5" exhaust on my Ranger. I tend to believe that this
should be an improvement. KKM also said that the underhood temperatures are
only about 5 to 10 degrees higher than the outside environment, while
driving.

I'd sure like to know if you noticed improvement after installing your KKM
kit. What else changed? Sound? Torque? Did you experience the same
difficulties when installing your kit in your '93 as I have for my '94?

Thanks.

> ----------
> From: Jordan Dean[SMTP:jsdean home.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 10:20 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade
>
> At 03:41 PM 7/8/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >Has anyone done an intake upgrade on a 1994 4.0 L V6 Ford Ranger? I
> talked
> >to a K&N representative and he said their kit wouldn't work. The only
> other
> >one I have found is a TruRev Induction Kit. ( This kit doesn't include
> >everything you need). Any input would be great.
> >
> >Kevin
> I have a '93 with the KKM intake kit, it had everything (crappy
> instructions, but whatever) and I'm really happy with it.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 09:08:06 -0500
From: Mike Harms
Subject: RE: FTE Small - brake warning lights

As you may not be aware, anytime the AntiLock warning light comes on, the
system is disabled. That is really the only purpose for that light is to
let you know that something went wrong during the ABS pretest causing it to
shut itself off. While that light is on, you have no ABS.

Check with someone at the dealership that knows something before you have
them bleed it. Make sure there really is a "diagnostic" bleed mode. While
possible, it seems unlikely. A local brake shop should be able to comment
on it as well.

One thing I have heard of on anti-lock systems is the valves getting
contamination in them during a bleed. The orifices in these hydraulic
valves are fairly small and could easily be plugged with small debris.
Also, I don't have experience with it, but I have heard that bleeding these
newer brake systems with Anti-Lock has gotten much more difficult to get the
air purged from the system.

I would check with the dealer to see if there is anything to do with a
diagnostic mode for bleeding the system. If not, then I would try bleeding
the system. Perhaps look into one of the pressurized bleeding tools that
can be rented from some Automotive parts stores. Of course, if there isn't a
diagnostic mode to bleed the brakes, it may be worth it to have them pull
the codes on the ABS to see what's up. I would probably try to bleed the
brakes one more time before taking it to the dealer though.

Good luck.

>Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 11:49:23 -0500
>From: "Campbell, Carl "
>Subject: FTE Small - brake warning lights
...
>brakes (RABS). After carefully installing the part and bleeding the entire
>system (including the RABS valve), I have an illuminated red "BRAKE" and
>yellow "REAR ANTILOCK" warning light on the dash. The pedal feels firm and
>the brakes appear to work fine, although I haven't tested the antilock
..

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 16:45:00 -0500
From: "Campbell, Carl "
Subject: RE: FTE Small - brake warning lights

Hey Mike:
I verified the fact that the RABS on my B II is disabled yesterday on the
way to a doctor's appointment. I had to nail the brakes hard to avoid a
collision and the rear wheels locked tight causing the rear end to want to
come around. Fortunately, I got off the brakes quickly and regained
control.
I'm inclined to believe that, as you suggested, I either have contamination
or air in or around the RABS proportioning valve. The reason I say that is
that, according to error code table in the Chilton manual, the only
condition that lights both the red "BRAKE" and yellow "REAR ANTILOCK" is the
RABS valve not being centered. The fluid that I bled out was pretty cruddy
and, although, I was getting the newer, cleaner fluid through the bleeder
valves, there may be some dirt or air still in there. Anyway, I'll take
your suggestion about getting a pressurized bleeding tool and attempt to
bleed the system again. Unfortunately, every time I've tried to talk to a
Ford mechanic, they always say "Bring 'er in and we'll fix 'er up for ya."
Thanks for the info.
Carl

> ----------
> From: Mike Harms[SMTP:MikeH bechamp.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 1999 9:08 AM
> To: 'small-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE Small - brake warning lights
>
> anytime the AntiLock warning light comes on, the
> system is disabled. While that light is on, you have no ABS.
>
> One thing I have heard of on anti-lock systems is the valves getting
> contamination in them during a bleed. The orifices in these hydraulic
> valves are fairly small and could easily be plugged with small debris.
>
> I would check with the dealer to see if there is anything to do with a
> diagnostic mode for bleeding the system. If not, then I would try
> bleeding
> the system. Perhaps look into one of the pressurized bleeding tools that
> can be rented from some Automotive parts stores. Of course, if there isn't
> a
> diagnostic mode to bleed the brakes, it may be worth it to have them pull
> the codes on the ABS to see what's up. I would probably try to bleed the
> brakes one more time before taking it to the dealer though.
>
> Good luck.
>
> >Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 11:49:23 -0500
> >From: "Campbell, Carl "
> >Subject: FTE Small - brake warning lights
> ...
> >brakes (RABS). After carefully installing the part and bleeding the
> entire
> >system (including the RABS valve), I have an illuminated red "BRAKE" and
> >yellow "REAR ANTILOCK" warning light on the dash. The pedal feels firm
> and
> >the brakes appear to work fine, although I haven't tested the antilock
> ..
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 16:10:58 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade

Thanks for the tip, Kevin! Yeah, the web page is informative and I will use
it. What has your own experience been with the KKM kit?

> ----------
> From: Kevin Arnold[SMTP:Kevin.Arnold wcom.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 1999 7:06 AM
> To: 'small-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade
>
> Ray,
>
> Go to this web site. The guys name is Andy and the site is totally
> kickass. It shows exactly how to install the kit of your model truck.
>
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.alaska.net/~ranger/truck/index.htm
>
> -Kevin
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ray Scheidnes [SMTP:ray_scheidnes nacm.com]
> Sent: Monday, July 12, 1999 5:32 PM
> To: 'small-list ford-trucks.com'
> Subject: RE: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade
>
> I have a '94 Ranger with the 4.0 motor. I called up K&N and they said
> that
> they don't have an induction kit for my truck, nor did it sound like they
> planned to make one.
> I purchased the KKM intake kit, but haven't installed it yet. I tried
> once,
> but noticed that things don't fit that well. The support bracket doesn't
> mount up to any "preexisting hole" and the new airtube seems to want to
> rest
> on the hot radiator hose. There is a hose between the add oil thing and
> the
> factory airtube, but it's too short for the kit. I also realized that I
> have to remove the blanket inside the hood, because it was mashing
> everything together. I emailed KKM and they said to remove the blanket
> (they said that the hood will be fine) so I did. I still need the longer
> hose and they still insist that there should be an existing hole for the
> support bracket on the kit. I really don't want to drill any holes at
> all,
> but I will if it's necessary, I guess. Other ideas have been tossed
> around
> by other people here, but many still believe that this will help me out as
> I
> have headers and 2.5" exhaust on my Ranger. I tend to believe that this
> should be an improvement. KKM also said that the underhood temperatures
> are
> only about 5 to 10 degrees higher than the outside environment, while
> driving.
>
> I'd sure like to know if you noticed improvement after installing your KKM
> kit. What else changed? Sound? Torque? Did you experience the same
> difficulties when installing your kit in your '93 as I have for my '94?
>
> Thanks.
>
> > ----------
> > From: Jordan Dean[SMTP:jsdean home.com]
> > Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Sent: Friday, July 09, 1999 10:20 PM
> > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE Small - Intake Upgrade
> >
> > At 03:41 PM 7/8/99 -0500, you wrote:
> > >Has anyone done an intake upgrade on a 1994 4.0 L V6 Ford Ranger? I
> > talked
> > >to a K&N representative and he said their kit wouldn't work. The only
> > other
> > >one I have found is a TruRev Induction Kit. ( This kit doesn't include
> > >everything you need). Any input would be great.
> > >
> > >Kevin
> > I have a '93 with the KKM intake kit, it had everything (crappy
> > instructions, but whatever) and I'm really happy with it.
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 21:28:04 -0500
From: Kevin Bice
Subject: FTE Small - Brake warning light

Carl,

Here is some info I found on a 94 explore. I hope it will shed some
light.....
4 Wheel Anti-Lock Brakes (4WABS)

NOTE: The anti-lock brake system must be bled in two steps.

1.The brake master cylinder and Hydraulic Control Unit must be bled
using Anti-lock Brake Adapter T90P-50-ALA and
Jumper T93T-50-ALA. If this procedure is not followed, air will be
trapped in the HCU which eventually leads to a spongy
brake pedal.

Item
Part Number
Description
1.
T90P-50-ALA
Anti-Lock Brake Adapter (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
2.
--
Bleed/Harness Selector (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
3.
--
Green "Motor On" Lamp (Part of T90-50-ALA)
4.
--
Red "Motor Off" Lamp (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
5.
--
Valve Button (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
6.
--
Abort Button (Part of T90P-50-ALA)
7.
--
Motor Start Button (Part of T90P-50-ALA)


2.To bleed the brake master cylinder and HCU, disconnect the 40-pin
plug from the Electronic Control Unit and install the
anti-lock brake adapter to the wire harness 40-pin plug.

a.Place the bleed/harness selector in bleed position.
b.Turn the ignition switch (11572) ON. At this point the red OFF
indicator on the adapter should turn on.
c.Push the motor button on the adapter down. This starts the
pump motor. The red OFF indicator turns off and the
green ON indicator turns on. The pump motor will run for 60
seconds once the motor button is pushed (you do not
need to hold the button down). If the pump motor is to be
turned off for any reason before this 60 seconds has
elapsed, push the abort button and the pump motor will turn
off.
d.After the first 20 seconds have passed, push and hold the
valve button for 20 seconds. This bleeds any trapped air
from the brake master cylinder and HCU.
e.The pump continues to run for an additional 20 seconds after
the valve button is released.

3.Bleed the brake lines in the following order:

Right rear
Left front
Left rear
Right front




Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 11:49:23 -0500
From: "Campbell, Carl "
Subject: FTE Small - brake warning lights

Greetings to all:

Ok, I'm stumped (and frustrated). I installed a remanufactured master
brake
cylinder on my '88 B II XLT this weekend. I purchased it from a major
Ford
Truck dealership here in Nashville, TN. This Bronco II has rear
antilock
brakes (RABS). After carefully installing the part and bleeding the
entire
system (including the RABS valve), I have an illuminated red "BRAKE" and

yellow "REAR ANTILOCK" warning light on the dash. The pedal feels firm
and
the brakes appear to work fine, although I haven't tested the antilock
feature. I have a Haynes and Chilton Manual. The Chilton manual
describes
a method to "flash out" an error code by momentarily grounding a
"diagnostic
connector" on the RABS module. According to the Chilton manual, this
connector is "rearward, under the dash, on the driver side, around the
main
cable bundle." The Haynes manual shows this connector near the RABS
module
which is mounted behind the driver door on the pillar. I can't find it
in
either location. Does anyone know where else the factory might have
hidden
this connector? Also, the red "BRAKE" lamp will go out if I disconnect
the
reservoir sensor. Does this mean that the sensor is defective? The
master
cylinder came with a new reservoir and sensor. Any insight would be
greatly
appreciated.

Carl Campbell

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Jul 1999 20:35:20 -0700
From: Ron Richardson
Subject: [none]

Hi everyone;

I have a black 1997 Ranger XLT Supercab 4x4 4.0L with a 5 speed automatic,
limited slip diff, factory fog lights, sunroof and Sony ES CD deck.

My question is:
This truck came with the graphite interior and 60/40 split-bench seats. I
find these seats provide no lumbar support whatsoever, and can be very
uncomfortable over long distances. I hear that Mustang Cobra seats will fit
nicely in the Ranger. Are these good seats? Should I look for the Ranger
buckets? Is there a Recarro option? Or another Third Party seat set that
will suit me? Does anyone have advice for me in upgrading the seats on my
Ranger? Thanks, in advance.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Jul 1999 01:35:15 -0500
From: Guy Anderson
Subject: FTE Small - Driving Lights Recommendation

Recommendations based on experience, please. I am considering 85
watt PIAA or Hella driving lights. The PIAA Dichroic seem to throw....


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