small-list-digest Friday, May 21 1999 Volume 03 : Number 123



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - windshield wipers '84 Bronco II
RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal
Re: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal
RE: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal
Re: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal
Re: FTE Small - windshield wipers '84 Bronco II
RE: FTE Small - Starting noises...
FTE Small - manual hubs
RE: FTE Small - manual hubs
Re: FTE Small - manual hubs
RE: FTE Small - manual hubs
FTE Small - RE: odds and ends (Tranny)
Re: FTE Small - RE: odds and ends (Tranny)
Re: FTE Small - manual hubs
Re: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal
FTE Small - Re: Starting noises...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:11:03 EDT
From: Walt
Subject: FTE Small - windshield wipers '84 Bronco II

Hey Group,

I dropped my '84 Bronco II in the water a few years ago. At the time, I
discovered during the drying out process that I had lost everything but high
speed on my wipers. This is the variable speed/ intermittent type system. My
question is, what controls this system ? By changing the switch unit at the
steering column, will this repair the system ? The motor is fine and I see
no controlling device at the motor location. I have never found a control
module under the dash. My assumption is that the lever/ switch unit controls
the wiper system. Is this correct ? Is this a dealer only or junk yard
available item ?


Walt DiDomenico Deerfield Beach FL
'84 Bronco II Submarine version
'65 Ford Falcon Ranchero Deluxe
'73 Triumph Spitfire

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 06:26:54 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

On the subject of stickers and stuff, does anyone know if the "Ranger" badge
on the front left and right side front fender panels are removeable? The
adhesive backing seems to have dried out a bit on mine, like a piece of old
rubber (at least that's what is visible when you look around the badge).
Are there holes in the panel that it sticks to, for rivets or anything? I
thought that the cleaner look with no badges/stickers would be nice...
My Ranger is a 1994 4.0 extended cab 4x4. Appreciate any input...
Thanks!

> ----------
> From:
> alannorthstar mindspring.com[SMTP:alannorthstar mindspring.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:31 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
>
> Many of those adhesives are soluable in oil, so the first time to
> try is regular kitchen cooking oil. Spread it on, let it sit for
> a couple of minutes, and wipe/scrape/whatever it off and see if a
> good deal of the remaining adhesive comes off too. If it does,
> you can do this another time or two to get it all off.
>
> This is probably the first thing you should try, since it isn't
> going to damage anything the way a more aggressive solvent might.
>
> Later,
> Alan
>
>
> On Wed, 19 May 1999 10:24:45 -0700, you wrote:
>
> :Stephen Bozzone wrote ----------------------------------------------
> :
> :I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
> :came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
> :However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky
> :residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what?
> :is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?
> :
> :My reply -----------------------------------------------------------
> :
> :The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer ("I
> :visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He wants
> :you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives are
> :downright antisocial.
> :
> :Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
> :1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
> :adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many paints,
> :printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
> :defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.
> :
> :2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to themselves
> :better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get this
> :crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is to:
> :
> :a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers.
> :b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you can,
> :so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as possible.
> :Make sure that the surfaces are dry.
> :c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker.
> :d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there for
> :a few seconds or so.
> :e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that some
> :of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
> :f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out and
> :replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
> :g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.
> :
> :Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker that
> :uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even more
> :sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to nastier
> :bumper stickers.
> :
> :In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some of
> :the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface. I
> :believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit of
> :isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the job.
> :
> :One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to go to
> :the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that you
> :recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so much
> :that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would he
> :please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on the
> :fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving in a
> :caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers onto the
> :vehicles before you leave.
> :
> :I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist. Before
> :computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove bits
> :of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"
> :Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
> :pasteup.
> :
> :Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?
> :
> :Let us know how you made out.
> :
> :Richard
> :
> :BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger xxx),
> :id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission), etc.
> :Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
> :Gogomobil.
> :2. What's a "rockzone?"
> :
> :== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:54:56 -0400
From: "Kenneth J. Nagy"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

Just remember if you do get it off, the paint underneath may not match the
rest of the truck (some fading may have taken place)

Ken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Scheidnes
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:26 AM
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal


> On the subject of stickers and stuff, does anyone know if the "Ranger"
badge
> on the front left and right side front fender panels are removeable? The
> adhesive backing seems to have dried out a bit on mine, like a piece of
old
> rubber (at least that's what is visible when you look around the badge).
> Are there holes in the panel that it sticks to, for rivets or anything? I
> thought that the cleaner look with no badges/stickers would be nice...
> My Ranger is a 1994 4.0 extended cab 4x4. Appreciate any input...
> Thanks!
>
> > ----------
> > From:
> > alannorthstar mindspring.com[SMTP:alannorthstar mindspring.com]
> > Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:31 PM
> > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
> >
> > Many of those adhesives are soluable in oil, so the first time to
> > try is regular kitchen cooking oil. Spread it on, let it sit for
> > a couple of minutes, and wipe/scrape/whatever it off and see if a
> > good deal of the remaining adhesive comes off too. If it does,
> > you can do this another time or two to get it all off.
> >
> > This is probably the first thing you should try, since it isn't
> > going to damage anything the way a more aggressive solvent might.
> >
> > Later,
> > Alan
> >
> >
> > On Wed, 19 May 1999 10:24:45 -0700, you wrote:
> >
> > :Stephen Bozzone wrote ----------------------------------------------
> > :
> > :I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
> > :came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
> > :However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky
> > :residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what?
> > :is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?
> > :
> > :My reply -----------------------------------------------------------
> > :
> > :The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer ("I
> > :visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He
wants
> > :you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives are
> > :downright antisocial.
> > :
> > :Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
> > :1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
> > :adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many paints,
> > :printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
> > :defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.
> > :
> > :2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to themselves
> > :better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get this
> > :crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is to:
> > :
> > :a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers.
> > :b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you can,
> > :so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as possible.
> > :Make sure that the surfaces are dry.
> > :c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker.
> > :d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there for
> > :a few seconds or so.
> > :e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that
some
> > :of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
> > :f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out and
> > :replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
> > :g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.
> > :
> > :Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker
that
> > :uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even more
> > :sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to nastier
> > :bumper stickers.
> > :
> > :In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some of
> > :the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface. I
> > :believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit of
> > :isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the job.
> > :
> > :One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to go
to
> > :the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that you
> > :recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so much
> > :that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would he
> > :please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on the
> > :fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving in a
> > :caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers onto
the
> > :vehicles before you leave.
> > :
> > :I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist. Before
> > :computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove bits
> > :of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"
> > :Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
> > :pasteup.
> > :
> > :Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?
> > :
> > :Let us know how you made out.
> > :
> > :Richard
> > :
> > :BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger xxx),
> > :id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission), etc.
> > :Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
> > :Gogomobil.
> > :2. What's a "rockzone?"
> > :
> > :== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 07:27:20 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

You may be right. If that happens, a good quality "cleaner" wax would
probably help blend things together.
Does anyone know if the metal badge will come off? Looks like maybe a razor
might do the trick (unless there are rivets at the back of the badge that
cannot be seen).

> ----------
> From: Kenneth J. Nagy[SMTP:knagy ixtelecom.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 6:54 AM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
>
> Just remember if you do get it off, the paint underneath may not match the
> rest of the truck (some fading may have taken place)
>
> Ken
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ray Scheidnes
> To:
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:26 AM
> Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
>
>
> > On the subject of stickers and stuff, does anyone know if the "Ranger"
> badge
> > on the front left and right side front fender panels are removeable?
> The
> > adhesive backing seems to have dried out a bit on mine, like a piece of
> old
> > rubber (at least that's what is visible when you look around the badge).
> > Are there holes in the panel that it sticks to, for rivets or anything?
> I
> > thought that the cleaner look with no badges/stickers would be nice...
> > My Ranger is a 1994 4.0 extended cab 4x4. Appreciate any input...
> > Thanks!
> >
> > > ----------
> > > From:
> > > alannorthstar mindspring.com[SMTP:alannorthstar mindspring.com]
> > > Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:31 PM
> > > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > > Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
> > >
> > > Many of those adhesives are soluable in oil, so the first time to
> > > try is regular kitchen cooking oil. Spread it on, let it sit for
> > > a couple of minutes, and wipe/scrape/whatever it off and see if a
> > > good deal of the remaining adhesive comes off too. If it does,
> > > you can do this another time or two to get it all off.
> > >
> > > This is probably the first thing you should try, since it isn't
> > > going to damage anything the way a more aggressive solvent might.
> > >
> > > Later,
> > > Alan
> > >
> > >
> > > On Wed, 19 May 1999 10:24:45 -0700, you wrote:
> > >
> > > :Stephen Bozzone wrote ----------------------------------------------
> > > :
> > > :I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
> > > :came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
> > > :However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky
> > > :residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now
> what?
> > > :is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?
> > > :
> > > :My reply -----------------------------------------------------------
> > > :
> > > :The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer ("I
> > > :visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He
> wants
> > > :you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives
> are
> > > :downright antisocial.
> > > :
> > > :Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
> > > :1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
> > > :adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many paints,
> > > :printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
> > > :defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.
> > > :
> > > :2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to themselves
> > > :better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get this
> > > :crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is
> to:
> > > :
> > > :a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers.
> > > :b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you
> can,
> > > :so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as possible.
> > > :Make sure that the surfaces are dry.
> > > :c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker.
> > > :d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there
> for
> > > :a few seconds or so.
> > > :e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that
> some
> > > :of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
> > > :f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out and
> > > :replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
> > > :g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.
> > > :
> > > :Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker
> that
> > > :uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even
> more
> > > :sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to nastier
> > > :bumper stickers.
> > > :
> > > :In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some
> of
> > > :the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface. I
> > > :believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit
> of
> > > :isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the
> job.
> > > :
> > > :One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to go
> to
> > > :the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that you
> > > :recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so
> much
> > > :that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would he
> > > :please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on the
> > > :fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving in
> a
> > > :caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers onto
> the
> > > :vehicles before you leave.
> > > :
> > > :I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist.
> Before
> > > :computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove
> bits
> > > :of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"
> > > :Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
> > > :pasteup.
> > > :
> > > :Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?
> > > :
> > > :Let us know how you made out.
> > > :
> > > :Richard
> > > :
> > > :BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger
> xxx),
> > > :id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission), etc.
> > > :Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
> > > :Gogomobil.
> > > :2. What's a "rockzone?"
> > > :
> > > :== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > >
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:54:52 -0400
From: "Kenneth J. Nagy"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

I've used hair dryers with good success.

Ken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ray Scheidnes
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 10:27 AM
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal


> You may be right. If that happens, a good quality "cleaner" wax would
> probably help blend things together.
> Does anyone know if the metal badge will come off? Looks like maybe a
razor
> might do the trick (unless there are rivets at the back of the badge that
> cannot be seen).
>
> > ----------
> > From: Kenneth J. Nagy[SMTP:knagy ixtelecom.com]
> > Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 6:54 AM
> > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
> >
> > Just remember if you do get it off, the paint underneath may not match
the
> > rest of the truck (some fading may have taken place)
> >
> > Ken
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ray Scheidnes
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:26 AM
> > Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
> >
> >
> > > On the subject of stickers and stuff, does anyone know if the "Ranger"
> > badge
> > > on the front left and right side front fender panels are removeable?
> > The
> > > adhesive backing seems to have dried out a bit on mine, like a piece
of
> > old
> > > rubber (at least that's what is visible when you look around the
badge).
> > > Are there holes in the panel that it sticks to, for rivets or
anything?
> > I
> > > thought that the cleaner look with no badges/stickers would be nice...
> > > My Ranger is a 1994 4.0 extended cab 4x4. Appreciate any input...
> > > Thanks!
> > >
> > > > ----------
> > > > From:
> > > > alannorthstar mindspring.com[SMTP:alannorthstar mindspring.com]
> > > > Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > > > Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:31 PM
> > > > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > > > Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
> > > >
> > > > Many of those adhesives are soluable in oil, so the first time to
> > > > try is regular kitchen cooking oil. Spread it on, let it sit for
> > > > a couple of minutes, and wipe/scrape/whatever it off and see if a
> > > > good deal of the remaining adhesive comes off too. If it does,
> > > > you can do this another time or two to get it all off.
> > > >
> > > > This is probably the first thing you should try, since it isn't
> > > > going to damage anything the way a more aggressive solvent might.
> > > >
> > > > Later,
> > > > Alan
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > On Wed, 19 May 1999 10:24:45 -0700, you wrote:
> > > >
> > > > :Stephen Bozzone
wrote ----------------------------------------------
> > > > :
> > > > :I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
> > > > :came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
> > > > :However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a
sticky
> > > > :residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now
> > what?
> > > > :is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?
> > > > :
> > > > :My
reply -----------------------------------------------------------
> > > > :
> > > > :The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer
("I
> > > > :visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He
> > wants
> > > > :you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives
> > are
> > > > :downright antisocial.
> > > > :
> > > > :Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
> > > > :1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
> > > > :adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many
paints,
> > > > :printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
> > > > :defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.
> > > > :
> > > > :2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to
themselves
> > > > :better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get
this
> > > > :crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is
> > to:
> > > > :
> > > > :a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers.
> > > > :b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you
> > can,
> > > > :so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as
possible.
> > > > :Make sure that the surfaces are dry.
> > > > :c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker.
> > > > :d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there
> > for
> > > > :a few seconds or so.
> > > > :e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that
> > some
> > > > :of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
> > > > :f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out
and
> > > > :replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
> > > > :g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.
> > > > :
> > > > :Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker
> > that
> > > > :uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even
> > more
> > > > :sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to
nastier
> > > > :bumper stickers.
> > > > :
> > > > :In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some
> > of
> > > > :the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface.
I
> > > > :believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit
> > of
> > > > :isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the
> > job.
> > > > :
> > > > :One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to
go
> > to
> > > > :the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that
you
> > > > :recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so
> > much
> > > > :that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would
he
> > > > :please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on
the
> > > > :fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving
in
> > a
> > > > :caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers
onto
> > the
> > > > :vehicles before you leave.
> > > > :
> > > > :I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist.
> > Before
> > > > :computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove
> > bits
> > > > :of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"
> > > > :Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
> > > > :pasteup.
> > > > :
> > > > :Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?
> > > > :
> > > > :Let us know how you made out.
> > > > :
> > > > :Richard
> > > > :
> > > > :BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger
> > xxx),
> > > > :id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission),
etc.
> > > > :Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
> > > > :Gogomobil.
> > > > :2. What's a "rockzone?"
> > > > :
> > > > :== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
> > http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > > >
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:05:25 -0700
From: Thom Cheney
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

Ray Scheidnes wrote:
>
> Does anyone know if the metal badge will come off? Looks like maybe a razor
> might do the trick (unless there are rivets at the back of the badge that
> cannot be seen).

I'd be staying away from any painted surface with a razor blade. You
are just asking for trouble! If it is an adhesive-backed emblem, you
might try applying some heat with a hair dryer... don't use a heat gun
or you might burn your paint! Heat the area anough to loosen the
adhesive & then try pulling the emblem off. If you require a tool...
try something NOT sharp & pointy... maybe an old butterknife or a
spackle knife with the corners rounded off. Once the emblem is off, try
the other methods mentioned in earlier posts to remove any remaining
adhesive. I had good luck once just using a mild rubbing compound and
then a new coat of wax. It worked perfectly!
>

- --
Thom Cheney
tcgrafx... among other things
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:05:42 -0400
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal

>Does anyone know if the metal badge will come off? Looks like maybe a
razor
>might do the trick (unless there are rivets at the back of the badge that
>cannot be seen).
>


I haven't taken a Ranger one off yet, but most are held on with strong
foam double-stick tape. I don't think anybody has used rivets or screws for
years. Unfortunalty, the bond is usually stronger than the badge itself.
You will probably bend and kink it trying to get it off. Unless your
extremely talented with a razor blade, I wouldn't even try it. You would
probably cut up the paint under the badge and end up having to paint the
area. Try using a plastic spatula or a cheap plastic putty knife. Avoid
using anything metal for the same reason as not using the razor blade.
If you do get the badge off and eventually want to put it back on, you
need to get a closed cell double stick tape. Normal tapes that you would
find at a Wal-mart or hardware store are open cell and will act like a
sponge holding water against the body of your truck. That's not a good
thing, especially if you cut up the paint with a razor blade. The safe bet
is to go to your local auto parts store or auto paint supplier and buy the
tape for body side moldings. I have used the 3M stuff with alot of success.
It comes in various widths and you will probably have to cut it to fit the
lettering in the badge.

Tony
94 Ranger Supercab, 4.0L, 5-Speed

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:44:12 -0700
From: Thom Cheney
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal

Anthony Rifici wrote:
>
>Try using a plastic spatula or a cheap plastic putty knife. Avoid
> using anything metal for the same reason as not using the razor blade.

Good suggestion Anthony, I hadn't thought of the plastic stuff!
- --
Thom Cheney
tcgrafx... among other things
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:52:19 -0400
From: "Fred Leiter"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal

Another thing that REALLY helps is let it sit in the
hot sun for a few hours or use a hair dryer to get
it nice and warm before attempting to remove it, the
tape softens up a great deal when warm and comes off
easier.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-small-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-small-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Anthony Rifici
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 11:06 AM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal



>Does anyone know if the metal badge will come off? Looks like maybe a
razor
>might do the trick (unless there are rivets at the back of the badge that
>cannot be seen).
>


I haven't taken a Ranger one off yet, but most are held on with strong
foam double-stick tape. I don't think anybody has used rivets or screws for
years. Unfortunalty, the bond is usually stronger than the badge itself.
You will probably bend and kink it trying to get it off. Unless your
extremely talented with a razor blade, I wouldn't even try it. You would
probably cut up the paint under the badge and end up having to paint the
area. Try using a plastic spatula or a cheap plastic putty knife. Avoid
using anything metal for the same reason as not using the razor blade.
If you do get the badge off and eventually want to put it back on, you
need to get a closed cell double stick tape. Normal tapes that you would
find at a Wal-mart or hardware store are open cell and will act like a
sponge holding water against the body of your truck. That's not a good
thing, especially if you cut up the paint with a razor blade. The safe bet
is to go to your local auto parts store or auto paint supplier and buy the
tape for body side moldings. I have used the 3M stuff with alot of success.
It comes in various widths and you will probably have to cut it to fit the
lettering in the badge.

Tony
94 Ranger Supercab, 4.0L, 5-Speed

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:35:12 -0500
From: "C. K. Hartline"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal

Make sure it's a plastic that is flexible!! You can get hard plastic to
scratch or cut just as good as a razor blade...

C.K.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:31:05 -0500
From: "Freewheel"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - windshield wipers '84 Bronco II

There should be a control module mounted up close to the parking break
pedal. I have gotten several good used assemblies from wrecking yards around
here, for installation in vehicals that came equiped with out them.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Walt
To:
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 7:11 AM
Subject: FTE Small - windshield wipers '84 Bronco II


> Hey Group,
>
> I dropped my '84 Bronco II in the water a few years ago. At the time, I
> discovered during the drying out process that I had lost everything but
high
> speed on my wipers. This is the variable speed/ intermittent type system.
My
> question is, what controls this system ? By changing the switch unit at
the
> steering column, will this repair the system ? The motor is fine and I see
> no controlling device at the motor location. I have never found a control
> module under the dash. My assumption is that the lever/ switch unit
controls
> the wiper system. Is this correct ? Is this a dealer only or junk yard
> available item ?
>
>
> Walt DiDomenico Deerfield Beach FL
> '84 Bronco II Submarine version
> '65 Ford Falcon Ranchero Deluxe
> '73 Triumph Spitfire
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:37:32 -0500
From: Mike Harms
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Starting noises...

>I have a '89 Bronco II with 170K+ miles on it. Today while trying to start

>it, I got nothing but the awful sound of the starter grinding on the
>flywheel, much like when you try to turn the ignition while the engine is
>still running. Yikes! I tried it about six or seven times, pausing every
>now and then to see if it would clear itself up. It did after about a
minute
>or so and I was able to start the car and proceed on my way, but believe me

>it was waaay too many times for me. This is starting to be a more common


I have had this happen on many older cars. The noise is the starter drive
kinda grinding against the ring gear it is supposed to engage in.
Possibilities: Missing teeth on the ring gear (not the most likely), Missing
teeth on the starter gear (not likely), A bad solenoid that is jumping
between closed and open (maybe), high resistance in a bad battery cable not
giving the starter enough juice to pop the solenoid out hard enough (it can
happen), internal resistance in the starter too high, not giving enough
juice to the solenoid to pop out hard enough(most likely). A draw down test
of the starter (can be done with everything in the auto) can show if it is
drawing unusual amounts of current and help point to a cause.

I think I've always been able to solve it by replacing the starter, of
course if the battery cable looks bad I replace that at the same time. I've
never had it happen with a starter that was new enough that I would question
the replacement of the starter either.

I did have a 74 Buick Rivera who's starter died and was drawing soo much
current to turn over that a 1100 amp semi-truck starting was finally able to
get it started, but the insulation from the cable running to the starter
melted off. Got me home that night, but that was it.
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:41:23 -0400
From: David
Subject: FTE Small - manual hubs

Recently I have been looking into changing the automatic hubs on my 95
ranger 4x4 4.0L 5spd. Several of the parts stores around town have hubs for
the truck ranging from 150-270dollars. One of the guys at the parts store
said that I would need a conversion kit 60 dollars. I know there have been
some posting on this subject however, I dont remeber the cost associated
with the swap as being so high. Any suggestions or help would be greatly
appreciated.
I am also considering swaping the gears for either 3.73 or 3.96's.
Currently the truck has 3.23's I plan on running either 31's or 32's after
I put on the lift and change the gears. Eventually I would like to put some
type of locking differential or posi-traction in both the front and rear
axels. Does any one have or heard anything about the auburn gear limited
slip?
Thanks
David

David Metcalfe


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:02:10 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - manual hubs

I have a '94 Ranger 4x4 extended cab with the 4.0 as well. I regeared from
3.73 to 4.56, and it has worked out nicely. The engine is turning fast
enough for more power, but not so much that I'm cruising down the freeway in
high RPMs. I have 31x10.5 tires. Thinking of going to 33s at some point.
Would my motor be able to handle that? I already have a lift of 4" up front
and about 2" out back, so the fit should be fine.

Also, I know that BFG makes a 31x9.5 tire, which I like. Is the sidewall on
that size tire so stiff that my ride will feel more like a haywagon? Does
anyone know?

> ----------
> From: David[SMTP:perfgauge xtalwind.net]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 1:41 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Small - manual hubs
>
> Recently I have been looking into changing the automatic hubs on my 95
> ranger 4x4 4.0L 5spd. Several of the parts stores around town have hubs
> for
> the truck ranging from 150-270dollars. One of the guys at the parts store
> said that I would need a conversion kit 60 dollars. I know there have been
> some posting on this subject however, I dont remeber the cost associated
> with the swap as being so high. Any suggestions or help would be greatly
> appreciated.
> I am also considering swaping the gears for either 3.73 or 3.96's.
> Currently the truck has 3.23's I plan on running either 31's or 32's after
> I put on the lift and change the gears. Eventually I would like to put
> some
> type of locking differential or posi-traction in both the front and rear
> axels. Does any one have or heard anything about the auburn gear limited
> slip?
> Thanks
> David
>
> David Metcalfe
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 17:06:01 -0500
From: "C. K. Hartline"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - manual hubs

when you all mention these bigger 30x? or 31x? what
is the diameter of the wheels your using? 15"? 16"? Bigger? what do the
numbers refer to? 30inches tall by 9.5 inches wide? Just curious...I grew
up listening to the belt and radial tire sizes and these big tires were't
the norm back then...in fact it used to be all letter size...like G-70/15
until the radials came out.

C.K.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:17:42 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - manual hubs

Typically, I think it's assumed that the rim size is 15 inches.

> ----------
> From: C. K. Hartline[SMTP:ca-kid swbell.net]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 3:06 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - manual hubs
>
> when you all mention these bigger 30x? or 31x?
> what
> is the diameter of the wheels your using? 15"? 16"? Bigger? what do the
> numbers refer to? 30inches tall by 9.5 inches wide? Just curious...I
> grew
> up listening to the belt and radial tire sizes and these big tires were't
> the norm back then...in fact it used to be all letter size...like G-70/15
> until the radials came out.
>
> C.K.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:50:36 PDT
From: "Joe Mitchell"
Subject: FTE Small - RE: odds and ends (Tranny)

>From: Ray Scheidnes
>Subject: RE: FTE Small - odds & ends

>About the tranny, I've seen my friend's 97 Explorer to the same >thing. He
>has to wait a moment to let the tranny engage, before he >stomps on the
>gas, otherwise it slams into gear (not good). I've >seen other brands of
>cars do this as well, so I don't think it's a >Ford exclusive. Don't think
>it's a "problem," just wait a second to >allow it to engage itself.

Well, on the contrary, my brothers old '85 Silverado had the same symptoms.
We asked around and every said it was typical of old transmissions, or
something of the sort. So, he let it be and it eventually grew worse and
worse. TO make the story short, he just replaced his tranny w/ a new one, so
if I were you, i might take it in and get it looked at. But, on the contrary
to that, my sisters old truck did the same thing for all three years she
owned it, and no other problems. I'd still get it looked at though, just to
be safe :)
- --
Joe
- --



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:00:12 -0400
From: "Eric Davis"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - RE: odds and ends (Tranny)

My Dads 97 F-150 did this and I think the reason was because it was low on
transmission fluid. This maybe be your problem.
Eric Davis
98 4x4 Ranger,
Custom Exhaust with Edlebrock muffler,
Superchip, K&N.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Mitchell
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:51 PM
Subject: FTE Small - RE: odds and ends (Tranny)


>>From: Ray Scheidnes
>>Subject: RE: FTE Small - odds & ends
>
>>About the tranny, I've seen my friend's 97 Explorer to the same >thing.
He
>>has to wait a moment to let the tranny engage, before he >stomps on the
>>gas, otherwise it slams into gear (not good). I've >seen other brands of
>>cars do this as well, so I don't think it's a >Ford exclusive. Don't
think
>>it's a "problem," just wait a second to >allow it to engage itself.
>
/faq.html


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:04:54 -0400
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Small - manual hubs

"C. K. Hartline" wrote:
>
> when you all mention these bigger 30x? or 31x? what
> is the diameter of the wheels your using? 15"? 16"? Bigger?

Generally 15" The newer trucks from GM and Dodge are using 16's now but
if it's unspecified assume 15.

> what do the
> numbers refer to? 30inches tall by 9.5 inches wide?

Correct. Referred to as 'floatation tire' sizes; 31x10.5 would be
(approx.) 31" tall and 10.5" wide regardless of being sized and mounted
for a 15, 16 or 16.5" rim Rim width etc. will determine the exact
height etc, but it's a general guide.


> Just curious...I grew
> up listening to the belt and radial tire sizes and these big tires were't
> the norm back then...in fact it used to be all letter size...like G-70/15
> until the radials came out.

For reference a 255 is about 1 mm over 10". A 235/75/15 is 'close' to a
28x9.5.

Used to run M-50/15s on the back of the Road Runner in my youth; those
were pretty wide buggers!

Tim Turner/Manic Mechanic
Custer Auto Repair
Wilmington NC USA

>
> C.K.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:17:55 -0500
From: Scott Ford
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Ranger Badge Removal

Fred Leiter wrote:
>
> Another thing that REALLY helps is let it sit in the
> hot sun for a few hours or use a hair dryer to get
> it nice and warm before attempting to remove it, the
> tape softens up a great deal when warm and comes off
> easier.
>
>
> >Does anyone know if the metal badge will come off? Looks like maybe a
> razor
> >might do the trick (unless there are rivets at the back of the badge that....


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