small-list-digest Thursday, May 20 1999 Volume 03 : Number 122



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - Re: Pinging on a 3.0L
Re: FTE Small - odds & ends
RE: FTE Small - odds & ends
RE: FTE Small - tires
FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
Re: FTE Small - Pinging on a 3.0L
Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...
Re: FTE Small - Pinging on a 3.0L
Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...
Re: FTE Small - Timing - How to adjust?
Re: FTE Small - tires
Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal
RE: FTE Small - odds & ends
Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:25:26 -0400
From: "Jim Bielecki"
Subject: FTE Small - Re: Pinging on a 3.0L

>I bought a 99 Ranger XLT 4x4 supercab with a 4 speed auto. Since the warm
weather, the engine pings, >even when its not under any load. I have taken
back to the dealer and was told nothing is wrong, but they >wont explain to
me why I am forced to use plus or better fuel. Has anyone seen this
problem?

My '98 Ranger XLT 4X4 does the same and has done so since the day I picked
it up.


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:35:03 -0400
From: "Kenneth J. Nagy"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - odds & ends

Regarding your #4, try using a hair dryer to remove stickers. It may even
help remove the rest of the glue. If that fails, try baby oil.

Ken

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stephen Bozzone
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 8:46 PM
Subject: FTE Small - odds & ends


> here's a few questions.
>
> 1. I have an auto transmission. When i first move into drive, the car
> doesn't react for a few seconds, jerks forward, and then it's good to go.
> Is this a bad thing? I don't mind it, but is it a sign of problems down
the
> road?
>
> 2. what service manual should i purchase (what's the best one?)
>
> 3. what treatment do you suggest i use for rust on the outside and inside?
> I'd prefer to treat the rust without making the visual appearance any
worse
> (if that's possible). I don't want a big gray splotch where my rust is,
but
> i also don't want my car to fall apart. There isn't a lot of rust but
there
> are little ones here in there.. just a 6 inch rectangular section by the
> rear wheel where the car scraped against a wall.
>
> 4. as a misc. I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
> came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
However,
> the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky residue that
> doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what? is there a
trick
> for this that won't ruin the finish?
>
> that's all on my mind at the moment.. thanks!
>
> Steve Bozzone
> Administrative Director - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://rockzone.com
> ICQ: 196843 || AIM: RudeSkam69
> -- "I see now mankind was not meant to last." [Hatebreed] --
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:05:20 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - odds & ends

As far as the stickers go, I've used WD-40 on that sticky glue residue
before, and it seems to work. Spray the sticky stuff and gently scrape with
your fingernail or something soft like it. Just wash the area afterwards
with mild soap and water and then wax over the area if possible. Can't
guarantee that it'll work for you, but it has for me.

About the tranny, I've seen my friend's 97 Explorer to the same thing. He
has to wait a moment to let the tranny engage, before he stomps on the gas,
otherwise it slams into gear (not good). I've seen other brands of cars do
this as well, so I don't think it's a Ford exclusive. Don't think it's a
"problem," just wait a second to allow it to engage itself.

There are some rust treatment products available from paint stores or
hardware stores that i've seen. One of them I saw is a spray that you coat
the rust area with and the clear spray actually turns black when it reacts
to the rust. You can leave it like that or paint over it once it's dry.

> ----------
> From: Stephen Bozzone[SMTP:editor rockzone.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 5:46 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Small - odds & ends
>
> here's a few questions.
>
> 1. I have an auto transmission. When i first move into drive, the car
> doesn't react for a few seconds, jerks forward, and then it's good to go.
> Is this a bad thing? I don't mind it, but is it a sign of problems down
> the
> road?
>
> 2. what service manual should i purchase (what's the best one?)
>
> 3. what treatment do you suggest i use for rust on the outside and inside?
> I'd prefer to treat the rust without making the visual appearance any
> worse
> (if that's possible). I don't want a big gray splotch where my rust is,
> but
> i also don't want my car to fall apart. There isn't a lot of rust but
> there
> are little ones here in there.. just a 6 inch rectangular section by the
> rear wheel where the car scraped against a wall.
>
> 4. as a misc. I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
> came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
> However,
> the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky residue that
> doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what? is there a
> trick
> for this that won't ruin the finish?
>
> that's all on my mind at the moment.. thanks!
>
> Steve Bozzone
> Administrative Director - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://rockzone.com
> ICQ: 196843 || AIM: RudeSkam69
> -- "I see now mankind was not meant to last." [Hatebreed] --
>
>
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:06:54 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - tires

4x2 or 4x4?
I would guess that 30 inches would be max tire size without any lift for the
4x4.

> ----------
> From: travis swinny[SMTP:elky00 hotmail.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 6:54 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Small - tires
>
> I've got a question for anyone.I would like to know the biggest tire size
> that i can fit on a 84 ranger without using a lift kit? Any help at all
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Travis Swinford
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.msn.com
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:24:45 -0700
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

Stephen Bozzone wrote ----------------------------------------------

I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky
residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what?
is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?

My reply -----------------------------------------------------------

The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer ("I
visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He wants
you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives are
downright antisocial.

Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many paints,
printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.

2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to themselves
better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get this
crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is to:

a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers.
b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you can,
so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as possible.
Make sure that the surfaces are dry.
c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker.
d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there for
a few seconds or so.
e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that some
of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out and
replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.

Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker that
uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even more
sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to nastier
bumper stickers.

In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some of
the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface. I
believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit of
isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the job.

One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to go to
the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that you
recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so much
that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would he
please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on the
fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving in a
caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers onto the
vehicles before you leave.

I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist. Before
computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove bits
of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"
Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
pasteup.

Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?

Let us know how you made out.

Richard

BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger xxx),
id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission), etc.
Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
Gogomobil.
2. What's a "rockzone?"

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 14:33:24 -0400
From: "Tony Rio"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

I used "Goo Gone" on my old pickup, and it seemed okay.

- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-small-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-small-list ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of
rgstein pacbell.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 1:25 PM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal


Stephen Bozzone wrote ----------------------------------------------

I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.
However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky
residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what?
is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?

My reply -----------------------------------------------------------

The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer ("I
visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He wants
you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives are
downright antisocial.

Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many paints,
printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.

2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to themselves
better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get this
crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is to:

a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers.
b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you can,
so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as possible.
Make sure that the surfaces are dry.
c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker.
d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there for
a few seconds or so.
e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that some
of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out and
replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.

Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker that
uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even more
sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to nastier
bumper stickers.

In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some of
the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface. I
believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit of
isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the job.

One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to go to
the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that you
recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so much
that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would he
please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on the
fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving in a
caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers onto the
vehicles before you leave.

I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist. Before
computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove bits
of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"
Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
pasteup.

Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?

Let us know how you made out.

Richard

BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger xxx),
id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission), etc.
Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
Gogomobil.
2. What's a "rockzone?"

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 14:10:05 -0500
From: Mike Harms
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pinging on a 3.0L

Pinging is caused by improper detonation of the fuel air mixture in the
combustion chamber. In a typical new car it is only noticed when the engine
is under load at lower RPM's like going up a hill in overdrive or something.
The engine in a current car should run without pinging when using the gas
rated the same as what is printed in the owners manual. Some cars have
detonation sensors that will restrict timing and adjust the fuel/air mixture
to stop detonation in case you end up having to use a fuel that is below the
grade the engine is designed for. A engines designed rating is usually
determined by the compression ratio of the cylinders, though not only by
this.

Of course older vehicles (prior to unleaded fuel) tend to Ping more easily
because of many reasons including: Higher than optimum compression ratio for
the fuel made today, carbon deposits in the cylinders causing "hot" spots,
Poor fuel air mixture and incorrect timing.

Here is a nice web page that goes through pinging and engine kocking:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.virtualsoftware.com/intellipro/happycar/Demo/Prophet/prob82.htm



- --Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:07:31 -0400
- --From: "Kenneth J. Nagy"
- --Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pinging on a 3.0L

- --I think the "ping" sound is caused by the valves rattling against their
- --seats in the cylinder head, because of the absence of lead (for
- --lubrication) in today's fuel.

- --Even though I've heard this plenty from my '66 GTO's 389ci/335hp engine,
it
- --is hard to describe; sort of an uneven, metallic, popping sound that will
- --increase with rpm? Oh well, I tried my best. Hope this helps.
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 15:24:56 -0400
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

>I used "Goo Gone" on my old pickup, and it seemed okay.
>


If products like "Goo Gone" don't work, the more aggressive route would
be to go to your local automotive paint supplier and buy a wax
remover/degreaser. I have used one from PPG called Acryli-Clean or
Acryli-Clear and I think the part number is DX-330. It costs about $10 a
quart and will clean off just about anything. It is not a watered down
cleaner that you would find in K-mart, it is used for preparing cars to be
painted, so be careful if you use it on a your finish. A little on the end
of a rag should do it. Don't use too much or rub too hard and rinse off the
area with plenty of water and wash it after your done. Try not to let it dry
on your paint. If you get to aggressive with it, you may damage your
clearcoat (just use some common sense). Having given that disclaimer, I
have never had any problems with using it on my finish. Just watch what
your doing and you shouldn't have a problem with it.

Good Luck,
Tony


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 14:51:09 -0500
From: "SPECTRE"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...

- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 8:43 PM
Subject: FTE Small - Starting noises...


> Problem:
>
> I have a '89 Bronco II with 170K+ miles on it. Today while trying to
start
> it, I got nothing but the awful sound of the starter grinding on the
> flywheel, much like when you try to turn the ignition while the engine is
> still running. Yikes! I tried it about six or seven times, pausing every
> now and then to see if it would clear itself up. It did after about a
minute
> or so and I was able to start the car and proceed on my way, but believe
me
> it was waaay too many times for me. This is starting to be a more common
> occurrence, so I am somewhat worried.
>
> What sort of damage was possibly done to the flywheel, starter, etc. and
what
> should be my next course of action (overhaul, starter replace, etc)?
>
> Thanks!
> Pol586 aol.com
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
AHA!
Finally someone else has the same problem as my '84 BII.
I found it helped to grind the aluminum plate down to where the bell housing
is, and use a prybar to hold the starter down while tightening the bolts.
It worked for a week then creeped back to grinding.
It's parked in the driveway right now.
Someone please help us!

SPECTRE

IF YOU CANT DAZZLE THEM WITH BRILLIANCE,
RIDDLE THEM WITH BULLETS.

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:47:06 -0400
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Pinging on a 3.0L

Ping/Spark knock/detonation is caused by the fuel charge being ignited
before the spark plug fires then when the plug does fire all of a sudden
there are two flame fronts (explosions!) heading towards each other with
predictable results.

Joesph Merchak wrote:
>
> I bought a 99 Ranger XLT 4x4 supercab with a 4 speed auto. Since the warm weather, the engine pings, even when its not under any load. I have taken back to the dealer and was told nothing is wrong, but they wont explain to me why I am forced to use plus or better fuel. Has anyone seen this problem?

Keep going back to the dealer until it's resolved. The same additives
that raise octane in today's gasoline are the prime cause of carbon
deposits that increase the octane need. (catch-22!) There is *NO*
reason to use a fuel of higher octane than Ford specifies for your
engine when it's working as designed and there are TSBs that state that
this will cause more harm than the (intended) good. A couple quick
pings under load aren't anything to worry about but I gather it's more
severe than that! Keep us posted and feel free to e-mail me off list.

Tim Turner/Manic Mechanic
Custer Auto Repair
Wilmington NC
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:11:04 -0400
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...

SPECTRE wrote:
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From:
> To:

> >
> > I have a '89 Bronco II with 170K+ miles on it. Today while trying to
> start
> > it, I got nothing but the awful sound of the starter grinding on the
> > flywheel, much like when you try to turn the ignition while the engine is
> > still running. Yikes!

Terrible noise isn't it? ;-)

> I tried it about six or seven times, pausing every
> > now and then to see if it would clear itself up. It did after about a
> minute
> > or so and I was able to start the car and proceed on my way, but believe
> me
> > it was waaay too many times for me. This is starting to be a more common
> > occurrence, so I am somewhat worried.

Get a good quality starter ASAP from your local rebuilder or a quality
chain store like NAPA or Carquest. Avoid the cheapo mass marketers!

> >
> > What sort of damage was possibly done to the flywheel, starter, etc. and
> what
> > should be my next course of action (overhaul, starter replace, etc)?

Usually the engine will stop in about the same place when it's shut off;
while the starter is out check the teeth on the fly wheel to make sure
there's not much in the way of wear on the ones you can see. To be sure
you can check the rest by turning the engine over with a socket on the
crank (Key off of course).

> >
> > Thanks!
> > Pol586 aol.com
> > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> >
> AHA!
> Finally someone else has the same problem as my '84 BII.
> I found it helped to grind the aluminum plate down to where the bell housing
> is, and use a prybar to hold the starter down while tightening the bolts.
> It worked for a week then creeped back to grinding.
> It's parked in the driveway right now.
> Someone please help us!

On this one make sure the bolts didn't loosen up! Mine's an '85 and had
to replace the starter for similar reasons at 155K last year and had the
bolts loosen up about 3 weeks later. Otherwise I'd suggest that the
motor is weak and not engaging far enough into the teeth.. Might want
to check your ground cable also.


Tim Turner/Manic Mechanic
Custer Auto Repair
Wilmington NC USA
>
> SPECTRE
>
> IF YOU CANT DAZZLE THEM WITH BRILLIANCE,
> RIDDLE THEM WITH BULLETS.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:21:32 -0400
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Timing - How to adjust?

Adam McLaughlin wrote:
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> Duh! I can't believe it was so obvious! My timing light is one that you
> need to put in series with plug no. 1. I'll run down to the store to get an
> induction model before starting this.


As long as it makes an adequate flash the series type light is OK; just
dont use one that pierces the plug wire! Find the 'spout' connector
(shorting plug probably located in the wiring harness near the
accumulator on yours that on removal will result in a 10-15 degree drop
in the observed timing) and then set to 10 BTDC +/- 2. If all else
fails and you cant locate the spout then set for around 25 BTDC and you
should at least be close if all else in the system is right.

Tim
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:24:17 -0400
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Small - tires

Ray Scheidnes wrote:
>
> 4x2 or 4x4?
> I would guess that 30 inches would be max tire size without any lift for the
> 4x4.

I'd agree; 31x10.5s on my B-II and rub occasionally so I'd suggest 30s
or 29s if you are aggressive while off road.

Tim
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 02:31:55 GMT
From: alannorthstar mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Bumper Sticker Removal

Many of those adhesives are soluable in oil, so the first time to
try is regular kitchen cooking oil. Spread it on, let it sit for
a couple of minutes, and wipe/scrape/whatever it off and see if a
good deal of the remaining adhesive comes off too. If it does,
you can do this another time or two to get it all off.

This is probably the first thing you should try, since it isn't
going to damage anything the way a more aggressive solvent might.

Later,
Alan


On Wed, 19 May 1999 10:24:45 -0700, you wrote:

:Stephen Bozzone wrote ----------------------------------------------
:
:I removed a few stickers from the back, and the ones that
:came off the glass were a challenge but they eventually came off.=20
:However, the ones that were on the paint (on the hatch) left a sticky
:residue that doesn't seem to be coming off after scrubbing. Now what?=20
:is there a trick for this that won't ruin the finish?
:
:My reply -----------------------------------------------------------
:
:The manufacturer of the bumper stickers is loyal to his customer ("I
:visited the Amazing Gorilla Cave on Rt. 297"), and not to you. He wants
:you to permanently advertise his business. Some of these adhesives are
:downright antisocial.
:
:Here's how to remove pesky rubber adhesives:
:1. Naptha (lighter fluid) is the solvent for almost all rubber
:adhesives. However, it will also dissolve the binder in many paints,
:printed labels, etc. So, test it in an inconspicuous place before
:defacing Ford's dainty imitation bumper.
:
:2. My favorite works-every-time: rubber adhesives stick to themselves
:better than they do to anything else. Therefore, the way to get this
:crud off your body/bumper (no difference between them any more) is to:
:
:a. Get your hands on a few brand new bumper stickers. =20
:b. Get all the old bumper sticker remains off your truck that you can,
:so that you can expose as much of the old adhesive glop as possible.=20
:Make sure that the surfaces are dry. =20
:c. Peel the backing off a new bumper sticker. =20
:d. Press the new sticker firmly against the crud. Let it sit there for
:a few seconds or so.
:e. Peel the new sticker off the surface slowly. You'll notice that some
:of the old adhesive has come off the surface.
:f. When your fresh bumper sticker loses efficiency, throw it out and
:replace it with a fresh, new, bumper sticker and keep going.
:g. Keep repeating steps d. and e. You'll be glad you did.
:
:Note: for this method to work, it is important to use a new sticker that
:uses an adhesive that's as aggressive as the old adhesive (or even more
:sticky). Thus, if it doesn't get the old crud off, switch to nastier
:bumper stickers.
:
:In most cases, this approach will work completely. However, I some of
:the newer "Post-it-type" temporary adhesives "craze" the surface. I
:believe that they incorporate some wax so reduce the "grab." A bit of
:isopropyl alcohol on a cotton rag (or naptha) will usually do the job.
:
:One way to get your hands on some free nasty bumper stickers is to go to
:the proprietor of your local Amazing Gorilla Cave. Tell him that you
:recently patronized his Gorilla Cave, and loved the experience so much
:that you want to spread the word to the rest of the world. Would he
:please give you enough stickers to advertise his establishment on the
:fronts and backs of your five cars? Your whole family is driving in a
:caravan to New York on Friday, and you want to get his stickers onto the
:vehicles before you leave.
:
:I adapted the peeling method from my father, who was an artist. Before
:computers, artists used to keep a "rubber cement pickup" to remove bits
:of rubber cement from pasteups. What was a "rubber cement pickup?"=20
:Simply a blob of dried rubber cement that they'd roll around the
:pasteup.
:
:Know anyone who needs a good technical writer?
:
:Let us know how you made out.
:
:Richard
:
:BTW: 1. Please always indicate which vehicle you own ('92 Ranger xxx),
:id of component you're asking for help with (A4LD transmission), etc.=20
:Otherwise, we don't know if you're talking about a Ranger or a
:Gogomobil.
:2. What's a "rockzone?"
:
:=3D=3D FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info =
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 99 20:03:59 PDT
From: don neomagic.com (Donald Paauw)
Subject: RE: FTE Small - odds & ends

>
> There are some rust treatment products available from paint stores or
> hardware stores that i've seen. One of them I saw is a spray that you coat
> the rust area with and the clear spray actually turns black when it reacts
> to the rust. You can leave it like that or paint over it once it's dry.
>
The result is sensitive to ultraviolet light, so you do want to paint it.

- -- Don
== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:13:24 -0500
From: "SPECTRE"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...

Thank you!
Someone finally responded to this.
Do you think The Auto Zone rebuilt starter is to blame?
the Ford dealer wants $140 for one.
I'll spring for it if you think it will do the trick.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Turner
To:
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Starting noises...


>
>
> SPECTRE wrote:
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To:
>
> > >
> > > I have a '89 Bronco II with 170K+ miles on it. Today while trying to
> > start
> > > it, I got nothing but the awful sound of the starter grinding on the
> > > flywheel, much like when you try to turn the ignition while the engine
is
> > > still running. Yikes!
>
> Terrible noise isn't it? ;-)
>
> > I tried it about six or seven times, pausing every
> > > now and then to see if it would clear itself up. It did after about a
> > minute
> > > or so and I was able to start the car and proceed on my way, but
believe
> > me
> > > it was waaay too many times for me. This is starting to be a more
common
> > > occurrence, so I am somewhat worried.
>
> Get a good quality starter ASAP from your local rebuilder or a quality
> chain store like NAPA or Carquest. Avoid the cheapo mass marketers!
>
> > >
> > > What sort of damage was possibly done to the flywheel, starter, etc.
and
> > what
> > > should be my next course of action (overhaul, starter replace, etc)?
>
> Usually the engine will stop in about the same place when it's shut off;
> while the starter is out check the teeth on the fly wheel to make sure
> there's not much in the way of wear on the ones you can see. To be sure
> you can check the rest by turning the engine over with a socket on the
> crank (Key off of course).
>
> > >
> > > Thanks!
> > > Pol586 aol.com
> > > == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info
http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
> > >
> > AHA!
> > Finally someone else has the same problem as my '84 BII.....

---

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