small-list-digest Saturday, May 8 1999 Volume 03 : Number 110



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - Door noise and exhuast rumble.
RE: FTE Small - Door noise and exhuast rumble.
Re: FTE Small - Door latch noise!
Re: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system (technical mumble-jumble)
Re: FTE Small - Door latch noise!
Re: FTE Small - Door latch noise, I forgot
FTE Small - Re:Borla exhaust....
Re: FTE Small - Re:Borla exhaust....
RE: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system (technical mumble-jumble)

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 06:13:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Ciocco
Subject: FTE Small - Door noise and exhuast rumble.

I may be off track on both of these problems, but I have experienced them at varying times and
here are the fixes that worked for me.

Door noise, in my case, was a cracked inner door shell. The inner door, under the door panel, was
cracked. I repaired this by removing the door panel, drilling holes at the ens of the cracks and
stiffening the cracked area. Welding would be a better fix, but this has worked for about three
years now.

Exhaust noise could be caused by not enough of a rubber insulator between the exhaust and its
mounting area. This transfers the exhaust noise to the fram of the truck and amplifies it.

My .02. Hope it helps.


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 06:27:48 -0700
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Door noise and exhuast rumble.

How did your inner door area get cracked? I assume that this area is
metal??

> ----------
> From: Bill Ciocco[SMTP:bciocco yahoo.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 6:13 AM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Small - Door noise and exhuast rumble.
>
> I may be off track on both of these problems, but I have experienced them
> at varying times and
> here are the fixes that worked for me.
>
> Door noise, in my case, was a cracked inner door shell. The inner door,
> under the door panel, was
> cracked. I repaired this by removing the door panel, drilling holes at the
> ens of the cracks and
> stiffening the cracked area. Welding would be a better fix, but this has
> worked for about three
> years now.
>
> Exhaust noise could be caused by not enough of a rubber insulator between
> the exhaust and its
> mounting area. This transfers the exhaust noise to the fram of the truck
> and amplifies it.
>
> My .02. Hope it helps.
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> >
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 11:15:49 -0400
From: "Stephen Bozzone"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door latch noise!

post that info to the group so we may all benefit.. thanks!

Steve Bozzone
Administrative Director - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://rockzone.com
ICQ: 196843 || AIM: RudeSkam69
-- "I see now mankind was not meant to last." [Hatebreed] --


- ----- Original Message -----
From:
To:
Sent: 06/5/99 11:28 AM
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Door latch noise!


>Hello,
>
>I have a 95 Ranger and taking off the door panel is very simple and does
not include any one time use clips. If you are interested in finding out
how to remove the door panel, email me and I will explain in detail.
>
>Jason Fischer
>jman6996 kcinter.net
>1995 Ranger Splash
>3.0 Liter V-6
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:41:39 -0600
From: Dave Armbruster
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system (technical mumble-jumble)

>From a practical standpoint, the Borla systems are made from 304 stainless
throughout. It'll be the last time you'd EVER have to replace the pipes,
muffler or tailpipe from the catalytic converter back. That is guaranteed
for a million miles, which a Ford truck will do easy, right?

Just wondering why you say Borla doesn't flow well.

Personally, I questioned their claims at face value, but found it was hard
to find quantitative evidence either way, to prove or disprove. So, I
modeled it as a fluids problem (wow, a use for that engineering core). Just
putting bigger pipes on doesn't necessarily mean greater flow. The velocity
of the exhaust gases would decelerate more due to the loss of heat (energy)
by using aluminum or mild steel than by reducing the diameter of the pipe.
In a stock system, the exhaust gas is well over 1,200 degrees F at the
engine, but has cooled several times, to well below 200 degrees, at the
tailpipe. This means that the gas has lost lots of energy, which will
translate into a loss of velocity. Also, it would appear that the unequal
cooling through a material that conducts heat better (specifically aluminum,
but mild steel as well) and the corrosion that will surely exists inside of
the pipe would cause the flow to become turbulent, which would cause a
further reduction in flow rates. The reason for high performance exhaust is
to increase the exhaust flow, not sound or anything else. The principle of
a venturi states that when gas or liquid is in motion, it's pressure is
reduced; the greater the reduction in pressure, the more rapid the motion
(this is also the principle behind a Mass Airflow Meter, BTW). The
Bernoulli effect is a result of this conservation of energy. Further, the
work done on a fluid (a fluid being a liquid or a gas), which is pressure
times volume, is the change in kinetic energy of that fluid.

Bernoulli's Theorem on how pressure and velocity interact:
static pressure + dynamic pressure = total pressure
static pressure + 1/2 x density x velocity^2 = total pressure

So any reduction in velocity has an exponential effect on the dynamic
pressure, which causes a resulting increase in total pressure of the system.

It is true, though, that when you reduce the diameter of a pipe, typically
the friction is increased, when means a loss of energy to overcome the
increased friction. But, this is more pronounced in the case of a garden
hose that is reduced from 1/2" to 3/8" than the difference in a 3" and 2
1/4" exhaust pipe. It seemed to me that the loss of thermal energy and
corrosion was a bigger problem than the difference in friction through the
two diameters of pipe (the increase in friction is dependent on material and
is not directly linear). Borla's stainless steel resists thermal change,
and it among the worst conductors of heat of all common metals. Once the
pipes get up to temperature, they are VERY hot, and short of submersion into
a lake, they stay hot pretty effectively.

For these reasons, I figured Borla to be pretty honest on the technical
issues and the fact that the pipes will never rust away for the life of this
truck and the next two Rangers I might own, it didn't seem to be a waste of
my money.

Now wipe the drool from the top of your desks.

Dave
Devner, CO


> -----Original Message-----
>
> Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 22:24:50 EDT
> From: Ding060297 aol.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?
>
> The system i just installed is nice its got a slightly louder rumble
>
> at idle and only gets loud between 1800 and 2300 rpm;s after that it
> pretty
> much goes away i hear the induction from the air cleaner over it -go
> figure-
> But instead of wasting $500-600 bucks on a borla or flowmaster which by
> the
> way don't flow very well at all they just get loud, try and find a exhaust
>
> shop, they can build you one for a quater of that my 3" exhaust and
> 3"dynomax
> muffler only ran me $265.00 installed and out the door.......ding
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
>
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:09:54 -0400
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door latch noise!

I guess they changed a bit for 95. 94's also have 3 screws, they are in
the upper right corner, bottom left and in the hand hold indentation. If
your door panels were rubbing through the paint on your door like mine were,
it might be a good idea to take care of this while you have the panels off.
Just sand down the plastic door panel where there are high spots and break
the edge. I used a Dremel and sanded the edge down around the whole door
panel. It stopped the door panel from cutting into the paint and got rid of
the squeaking noise associated with it. Unfortunatly, that was just one of
the noises I had coming from the door panels. I have found a fix for most
of the door panel noise, so if your panels make alot of noise, let me know
and I'll share how I fixed them.
By the way, one place to look for your noise might be the link in
between the latching mechanism and the handle. I'm not sure on the Ranger,
but usually this is a metal rod connecting the two that snaps into guides.
I have had noise in other vehicles when the link popped out of the guides.

Later,
Tony
94 Ranger Supercab, 4.0L, 5-Speed



>OK,
>
>In order to remove the inner door panel on my Ranger, all I had to do was:
>
>1. Remove the window crank (Not necessary for power windows).
>
>2. Remove 2 screws from underneath the door handle( 2 small black phillips
>head screws)
>
>3. Remove a screw from the bottom outside corner of the door. This was a
>little hidden from the carpet on the bottom of the door, but keep looking,
>its there.
>
>4. Grab the bottom of the door panel and lift up. Be Careful, you will
have
>to disconnect any power accessory wires that are attached to the door
panel.
>Just simply unplug them.
>
>Obviously, do this is reverse to reinstall.
>
>Jason Fischer
>1995 Ranger Splash
>3.0 Liter V-6
>K&N, cat-back duel exhaust, tint, aftermarket stereo, alarm, remote start
> (I've put alot into this truck, and as always its for sale for the right
>amount !)
>
>== FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 16:16:22 -0400
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door latch noise, I forgot

Another thing about the door panel removal differences between 94 and 95
that might be relevant to the person that asked for the instructions. The
power window and lock switch gear does not just unplug. There is a screw
through the electrical connectors that would have to be removed to
disconnect them.
There is an easier way. Before you lift up on the panel to remove it
from the door, pull the black panel that houses the switch gear away from
the rest of the panel. It just snaps in place. Then lift the door panel to
remove it and when it is loose, you can shove the black panel and switchgear
through the main panel.

Add these amendments to Jason Fischer's instructions and you got
yourself a procedure for a removing a 94 door panel. It's really very easy
to remove. When you go try it, you'll find out that is not a big deal.

Later,
Tony
94 Ranger Supercab, 4.0L, 5-Speed


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 19:18:34 PDT
From: "Joe Mitchell"
Subject: FTE Small - Re:Borla exhaust....

>From: Ding060297 aol.com
>But instead of wasting $500-600 bucks on a borla or flowmaster which by the
>way don't flow very well at all they just get loud, try and find a exhaust
>shop, they can build you one for a quater of that my 3" exhaust and
>3"dynomax
>muffler only ran me $265.00 installed and out the door.......ding

Huh? 500-600? Are you talking with headers or just the mufflers/pipes? I had
a set of Flowmasters installed on mine with 3" chrome tips and all new pipe
for only $235. As for the being loud part, that is right, but they are sure
nothing to shun when it comes to performance. Never had any expeariance with
Borla, but with my 2nd truck (project), the Flows were a great investment. I
didn't put any on my Ranger, just because I got some performance mufflers
for free, but if i hadn't Flowmasters would've been my first choice.
- --
Joe


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 00:11:39 EDT
From: DJ250r aol.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Re:Borla exhaust....

is this for the 2.3 ? and how much power gain is it ? i plan on going up to
biger tires and a kick a susp.
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 01:08:41 -0700
From: "Andrew Chung"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system (technical mumble-jumble)

I don't have the same technical background as you do but what you said at
least sounds good =). On a side note, I've noticed two more things about
the cat-back system. Someone on the list posted that I might be able to
reduce the interior noise level by resetting the computer, I tried it and I
THINK it worked, at least to a degree. The interior cabin noise seems to
have died down quite a bit. There is still a nice rumble at the lower RPMs
when I'm accelerating, but at cruising speeds, it doesn't reverb anymore,
either that or I'm just getting used to the noise. On a second note, for
those who own Borla systems, have you noticed that the tail pipes discolor?
The tips are still pretty shiny, but the pipes from the resonator back to
the tips are turning a little on the brown/bronze side. I think it's due to
the heat from the exhaust. I think it can be polished out but I wanted to
know if anyone else has noticed the same thing.

- -----Original Message-----
From:owner-small-list ford-trucks.com
[mailto:owner-small-list ford-trucks.com] On Behalf Of Dave Armbruster
Sent:Friday, May 07, 1999 08:42
To:small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject:Re: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system (technical mumble-jumble)

>From a practical standpoint, the Borla systems are made from 304 stainless
throughout. It'll be the last time you'd EVER have to replace the pipes,
muffler or tailpipe from the catalytic converter back. That is guaranteed
for a million miles, which a Ford truck will do easy, right?

Just wondering why you say Borla doesn't flow well.

Personally, I questioned their claims at face value, but found it was hard
to find quantitative evidence either way, to prove or disprove. So, I
modeled it as a fluids problem (wow, a use for that engineering core). Just
putting bigger pipes on doesn't necessarily mean greater flow. The velocity
of the exhaust gases would decelerate more due to the loss of heat (energy)
by using aluminum or mild steel than by reducing the diameter of the pipe.
In a stock system, the exhaust gas is well over 1,200 degrees F at the
engine, but has cooled several times, to well below 200 degrees, at the
tailpipe. This means that the gas has lost lots of energy, which will
translate into a loss of velocity. Also, it would appear that the unequal
cooling through a material that conducts heat better (specifically aluminum,
but mild steel as well) and the corrosion that will surely exists inside of
the pipe would cause the flow to become turbulent, which would cause a
further reduction in flow rates. The reason for high performance exhaust is
to increase the exhaust flow, not sound or anything else. The principle of
a venturi states that when gas or liquid is in motion, it's pressure is
reduced; the greater the reduction in pressure, the more rapid the motion
(this is also the principle behind a Mass Airflow Meter, BTW). The
Bernoulli effect is a result of this conservation of energy. Further, the
work done on a fluid (a fluid being a liquid or a gas), which is pressure
times volume, is the change in kinetic energy of that fluid.

Bernoulli's Theorem on how pressure and velocity interact:
static pressure + dynamic pressure = total pressure
static pressure + 1/2 x density x velocity^2 = total pressure

So any reduction in velocity has an exponential effect on the dynamic
pressure, which causes a resulting increase in total pressure of the system.

It is true, though, that when you reduce the diameter of a pipe, typically
the friction is increased, when means a loss of energy to overcome the
increased friction. But, this is more pronounced in the case of a garden
hose that is reduced from 1/2" to 3/8" than the difference in a 3" and 2
1/4" exhaust pipe. It seemed to me that the loss of thermal energy and
corrosion was a bigger problem than the difference in friction through the
two diameters of pipe (the increase in friction is dependent on material and
is not directly linear). Borla's stainless steel resists thermal change,
and it among the worst conductors of heat of all common metals. Once the
pipes get up to temperature, they are VERY hot, and short of submersion into
a lake, they stay hot pretty effectively.

For these reasons, I figured Borla to be pretty honest on the technical
issues and the fact that the pipes will never rust away for the life of this
truck and the next two Rangers I might own, it didn't seem to be a waste of
my money.

Now wipe the drool from the top of your desks.

Dave
Devner, CO


> -----Original Message-----
>
> Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 22:24:50 EDT
> From: Ding060297 aol.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - Borla exhaust system reverberating in cabin?
>
> The system i just installed is nice its got a slightly louder rumble
>
> at idle and only gets loud between 1800 and 2300 rpm;s after that it
> pretty
> much goes away i hear the induction from the air cleaner over it -go
> figure-
> But instead of wasting $500-600 bucks on a borla or flowmaster which by
> the
> way don't flow very well at all they just get loud, try and find a exhaust
>
> shop, they can build you one for a quater of that my 3" exhaust and....

---

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