small-list-digest Tuesday, December 29 1998 Volume 02 : Number 361



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Small - Flucuating Temp. Gauge
FTE Small - Re: Sticky Throttle
FTE Small - Re: cold engine/temp gauge
FTE Small - Re: Sticking Throttle
FTE Small - '97 Explorer XLT
FTE Small - 5 Speed, poor downshifting
Re: FTE Small - '97 Explorer XLT
Re: FTE Small - RE: SOHC 4.0

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Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:36:09 -0800
From: "Bill A'Hearn"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Flucuating Temp. Gauge

My 88 Ranger w/2.9L experienced a similar problem many years ago. My guage
would suddenly shoot up just below the overheating mark and then drop back
down to normal. This occurred on and off for several months. After
visiting multiple mechanics and having the thermostat replaced twice, it
turned out to be a small voltage regulator used by the gas/temp guages and
located in the dash. Sadly I no longer have my Ranger, I traded it in for a
F150 :).

Good Luck!

Bill A'Hearn
99 F150 Lariat SC 5.4L
97 Explorer XLT 5.0L


*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 12/18/98, at 11:23 PM, Blest25913 AOL.COM wrote:

>
>Subject: FTE Small - Fluctuating temp indicator...
>I have a question I'd like to pose you all in Ford Truck land regarding an
'89
>Ford Bronco II's (2.9L V6) temp indicator. I notice that after my engine
is
>warmed up, the temp indicator will swing to the "M" or "A" in the word
>"NORMAL" on the gauge to about the left of the "N". The needle will
continue
>to fluctuate, especially on trips in cold weather (sometimes in warm
weather
>as well). Does anyone know what could be going on?>>>>>>>
>
>Mine swings a lot on my '96 Ranger 3.0L. Its done it since it was new so I
>don't worry about it. And yes, it does it more in cold weather.
>Ron 'Grampy' Trampe
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:24:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Brown
Subject: FTE Small - Re: Sticky Throttle

Dan wrote:

> I have a 97 Explorer XLT 4 door, 2wd, 5.0 L engine. 39,000 miles.
>
> The throttle cable binds up, most noticeably after deactivating the
> cruise control with the foot brake and speeding up with the gas pedal.
> There is a light "crunch" at tip-in, and the engine revs at least 500
> rpm more than I intended. It's annoying on the interstate but a real
> safety hazard in urban stop and go traffic, a potential for a rear end
> collision.
>
> Lubrication doesn't help -- and the problem has gotten more pronounced
> since the factory warranty expired a month ago. Local mechanic thinks
> "throttle body" and not just a linkage problem. [$$$]
>
I had a similar problem on a (non-ford) auto, I had to push just
a little extra to get the throttle to 'free up', then I would
jump away from any stop :-(. It did turn out to be the (GM) throttle
body, the shaft bore was worn out. Before you replace it, check a
couple of items:

1) The throttle body might be covered under an emmisions warranty.
Here in California, this warranty is good for around 60-75k miles.
Even though the rest of the truck is under the std 36k, emmisions
related components are covered under a second program (It's the Law!)

2) If 1) doesn't pan out, find a good carburator shop. I had bushings
installed in mine for about $30. Sure beat $6-700 for a new TBI assembly!
I took the assembly down to them, picked it up later that day. They
remove the butterfly and shaft, bore out the shaft holes and install
bushings. Then the shaft and butterfly were re-assembled. Just like new!
- --
Pat Brown
Sebastopol, California
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:32:54 -0500
From: Harry Trafford
Subject: FTE Small - Re: cold engine/temp gauge

First, you can test the gauge to see if the needle will swing all the
way to the Hot side.

With the key in the 'Run' position (engine off), pull the wire off the
temp. sender and ground it. If the needle pegs to the hot side, then
the gauge is working. If the needle doesn't peg out, then the gauge or
the wiring may have a problem. If you determine the gauge is OK, you
need to personally check the sender and the thermostat. Do it yourself,
don't take the word of anyone, unless you see them do it.

You can pull the thermostat to see if it's the correct one. Mine has
the temperature (180 deg.F) stamped on it. Sometimes even new
thermostats don't work. You can buy a new thermostat, gasket and sender
and install them just so you know it's been done. I did this on Sunday,
cost me about $12 and an hour of my time. There are some places that
will say they changed a part, but in fact, nothing was really done.
This happened to the PO of my Bronco.

If this only happens in the winter, well, put cardboard over the
radiator :-)) , it's still summer in south Florida, so I don't know
much about cold climate setups. These are all general tips that apply
over a wide range of vehicles. There may be specific applications for
your vehicle that I don't know about.
Good luck,
Harry
Homestead, Fla.
'90 Bronco II
'78 Lotus
'86 XJS

- ----------
From: "Steven Kirsch"
snip
I've had a problem
with the temp gauge reading below normal ever since I purchased it new.
The gauge reads to the left of the "n" in normal and never goes any
higher
than that. I still get decent heat from the heater. I took it in a
few
years ago while it was still under warranty. They determined that the
engine was running cold and that the thermostat was the culprit. They
said
since it was running cold that the fuel/air mix was staying rich and
that
this was probably decreasing my mileage. They put in a new thermostat.
This hasn't seemed to make any noticeable difference - the temp still
reads
below normal and my mileage is still a little below what I would
expect.

Since the heater blows out heat fine, could it be that the problem is
not
the thermostat? Could it be a temperature sensor or the gauge itself?
I'm
not much of a mechanic so I can would appreciate any advice anyone can
give
me.

Another question I have concerns the K&N air filter. What are the pros
and
cons of switching to one of these?

Steve Kirsch

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:05:58 -0500
From: "Lou Guerriero"
Subject: FTE Small - Re: Sticking Throttle

Hi,

There was quite a lot of discussion on this subject a few months back. I
too had a problem with a sticking accellerator.

My suggestion to you is to go by a can of spray carb cleaner.... open up
the throttle body (It's just one O-ring clamp) and check the throttle
valve... it it likely black with sludge and deposits. I sprayed about half
a can with it closed and open, in short bursts, letting the horribly black
sludge run out after each spray. Then I oiled the return springs and voila,
my accelleration is smoother than I ever experienced it with my 88 bronco
II.

I am surprised your having this problem so early, but I suppose it's
possible, depending on how you drive (heavy accell).

Good luck, let us know if that works out. PS, don't repeat DONT pay a
mechanic to do that, they will charge too much, for what is about 10 mins
work, and a 5 dollar can of cleaner.


__________________________

I have a 97 Explorer XLT 4 door, 2wd, 5.0 L engine. 39,000 miles.
The throttle cable binds up, most noticeably after deactivating the
cruise control with the foot brake and speeding up with the gas pedal.
There is a light "crunch" at tip-in, and the engine revs at least 500
rpm more than I intended. It's annoying on the interstate but a real
safety hazard in urban stop and go traffic, a potential for a rear end
collision.
Lubrication doesn't help -- and the problem has gotten more pronounced
since the factory warranty expired a month ago. Local mechanic thinks
"throttle body" and not just a linkage problem. [$$$]
I'd appreciate hearing from other owners with similar problems and how
you fixed it.


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:26:17 EST
From: bobherring juno.com (Bobby D Herring)
Subject: FTE Small - '97 Explorer XLT

I have just acquired a used '97 Explorer XLT. It has the keypad beside
the
door handle. Is there any way to get the combination? The dealer doesn't
seem to know what it is. They acquired it thru an auction.
Also, are there any quirks I should look out for on this model?
It runs and drives great with 43k miles on it.
Thanks,

Bobby Herring
'64 F100 short-wide, 292 Y-block/3speed, motor in pieces, make me an
offer
'72 F100 400/C6 in progress
'93 Ranger V6/Auto/Super cab
'97 Explorer XLT 4.0 Auto

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:27:02 -0500
From: "Summers, Burnett (OCD-PO1)"
Subject: FTE Small - 5 Speed, poor downshifting

When down-shifting - try "double clutching." To do this, you first shift
into neutral. You then release the clutch and quickly 'blip' the throttle to
rev the engine. You then depress the clutch and shift into the lower gear
that you need. Although I have never fully understood why this works, it
does seem to help on my five speed which doesn't want to shift into 2nd gear
when cold.

However, I do suspect that on my tranny the overall problem is with a worn
synchro. The problem seems to get worse as I pile on the miles. This will
eventually have to be addressed.

Hope this helps!!
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 23:50:38 EST
From: Ding060297 AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - '97 Explorer XLT

I purchased my 96 explorer xlt threw the auction also and i found mine in the
manual in the glove box stuck between some of the pages.....check yours
...other than that its a great truck i love mine it just keeps on impressing
me...ding
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:44:37 -0500
From: "David Olsen"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - RE: SOHC 4.0

- -----Original Message-----
From:
To:
Date: Friday, December 25, 1998 2:19 AM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - RE: SOHC 4.0


>>
>> Bob Marrs wrote:
>> >
>> > Hi Folks,
>> >
>> > Just FYI, I did a thorough investigation about fitting SOHC 4.0L into a
>> > Ranger/Bronco. It will fit fine. I have all the engine dimensions if
anyone
>> > is interested. You need to notch air con/heater box a bit (just the
box, not
>> > the internals). Of course, you need the computer and exact trans to
match to
>> > computer, etc. Most of the SOHC 4.0's I've seen have the 4 speed auto
>> > behind it. If you have a Ranger with the battery on the drivers side,
it
>> > will be much less work. The 4.6L engine is CONSIDERABLY wider and
would be
>> > much more difficult to fit. If anyone finds a SOHC 4.0L which has/had
a 5
>> > speed, or a wrecked 4x4 Explorer with this set-up, I would like to
purchase.
>
>Unfortunately the SOHC 4.0 is only offered with the 5-speed Automatic
>in the explorer, so you will not find a five speed (manual) or even a
>four speed auto behind one. However the bellhousing from a ranger 4.0
>five speed should fit, but that tranny is kinda weak (which is probably
>why they don't offer it as an option)


I though the 2 door explorers had the Single Cam V6 Paired with a 5 speed
Manual.. Nuts on me if i'm wrong...
>
>Scott Ford
>sford umr.edu
>'92 Ranger 4X4
>'86 Mustang GT
>'56 Ford F-100
>
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