small-list-digest Thursday, November 26 1998 Volume 02 : Number 328



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

Re: FTE Small - 84' bronco2
[none]
FTE Small - RE: 93 Ranger Brakes
FTE Small - Re: lowering Ranger 4wd
Re: FTE Small - Re: lowering Ranger 4wd
FTE Small - 93 Ranger brakes/ABS
FTE Small - 2.9 to 4.0 Swap
FTE Small - 4wd Driving
FTE Small - Rear Weight
FTE Small - Lowering 4wd
FTE Small - Service Histories
Re: FTE Small - 93 Ranger Brakes
FTE Small - Gotta go Back In Time! :)
FTE Small - Re: Winter Weight

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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:33:59 EST
From: RussellMG AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 84' bronco2

Two possible sources for 2.8 performance parts (internal and external) are
Racer Walsh, and Vanir Technologies. Racer Walsh is the better prospect of the
two, as Vanir caters more to the 4.0 now.
Racer Walsh has performance pistons, rods, manifolds, carburetors, etc., etc.
for the 2.8. They are located in Jacksonville, Florida (800-334-0151), and
have a (simple, brief) website where you can e-mail them for information or
request a catalog; go to www.racerwalsh.com
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Date: 25 Nov 98 07:48:35 EST
From: CharlesASkarsaune eaton.com
Subject: [none]

>Information dealing with a 1984 Bronco2, 2.8 V6. The 2.8 engine that's in
the Bronco2 is really >weak. I've adjusted the valves several times and
makes no
>difference. The solid lifters are noisy and adjusting them is no fun
matter. I've looked around and >thought about a V8 switch but decided this
isn't the
>ticket for me. The 4.0 sounds fair but what information I've found
indicates lots of changes. (Gas >tank, fuel lines, computer and all the
wiring, ect.)
>Does anyone know what improvements may be gained if placing a 4.0 in the
engine >compartment. Will the intake manifold from the 2.8 fit and operate
the 4.0.
>I've heard the 4.0 is a strong engine and reliable. Any input from this
prospect would be >appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Billy1

Notes from the ford ranger website - I'm considering the same swaps.
Note I'm not the author.

ENGINE SWAP FOR BRONCO II

You can get a used 4.0 from Explorers or Rangers since 1990. You will
need the whole engine including brackets for alternator, air
conditioning, and power steering. kensingtonmotors.com had used 4.0
engines between $450 and $1250. A salvage yard near you may also have
one. You're engine mounts will work, check to see if they are okay when
you pull the engine. I recommend you get the transmission also. You've
got to remove the complete engine "system" and install in your vehicle.

You also need to take the following from the donor truck:

1. Computer from passenger compartment
2. Wiring Harness from main harness to Computer harnesses.
3. Exhaust manifolds or headers plus oxygen sensor
4. Sensors: coolant temperature, manifold pressure, air charge
temperature,
5. Any associated power train sensors, such as reverse light switch,
neutral switch, 4X4 switch.
6. If possible take transmission with mounts, crossmember and downshift
linkage.
6. Possible radiator change - take from donor if possible.
7. The original radiator will work fine if it's in good shape. It's
actually bigger than the 4.0's. Shroud is OK, too, but get the 4.0 with
it's fan.
8. Motor Mounts [from donor if look okay; new ones preferred].
9. Fuel tank, lines, and pump. Get an 89 or 90 if you can, otherwise use
the dual pump setup of an 86-88 Bronco II.
10. Fuel injection assemblies.
11. Radiator overflow tank
12. The ignition module that sits next to the radiator is required.
13. Ignition coil if not mounted on block
14. Throttle linkage
15. Accessory brackets, such as alternator, A/C compressor, air
injection pump and power steering
16. Speed sensor in the transfer case. Better yet, get the transmission
and transfer case. Switches from the tranny back (reverse lights,
neutral switch, etc) are not necessary unless you get the tranny, too.
17. Get the power distribution box for connection of the computer
relays.
18. You will need the air intake system system consisting of at least
the mass air flow sensor, air duct, and throttle body. Use either a K&N
filter or the Explorer's filter box.
19.If you have air conditioning, get the hoses, condenser, and a NEW
receiver dryer.
20. Use the original temperature and oil pressure gauge senders. Just
install them in the same places on the new engine.

You'll need from other sources:
a. Hoses: water, vacuum, fuel
b. Belts
c. Wiring harness if not from donor

The changeover will take about 30 hours to do.

Take lots of COLOR PICTURES as your stripping the donor vehicle to help
when you re-assemble in your own engine compartment

If you want to see lots of pictures and get lots more details about how
to actually DO this swap, see my article in the October '97 issue of
Four Wheeler.

Also get a Chilton's or Haynes Manual. Or even better a factory service
manual.

Check out the V-8 Conversion info at:
James Duff Enterprises - the best on-line Bronco II V-8 swap info found
as of June 9, 1998.
www.jamesduff.com/broncoII/v8conversions.html

Advance Adapters
www.advanceadapters.com/Ford/Ford.html

COST: Costs will vary widely depending on what you intend to do with
the competed package, the condition of the items installed, who does the
installation, and what items are installed. For my planning purposes, I
am planning to swap in a 4.0, its A4LD auto tranny and stock transfer
case. I'll do the work. I run street only - daily driver. I'll do
little to upgrade the engine. I will install some heavy duty clutches
and a shift kit in the trans. I'll rework the driveshafts. I'm
budgeting $3000.

Here's a question to consider: What could you buy if you traded your
current truck plus $3000?

Other Sources:
Triplett ASAP Auto Salvage, in Colorado www.triplettasap.com
Bronco II Forum http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://4x44u.vmag.com/forum/b2-1097/
Oct 97 issue of Four Wheeler magazine

4.0L Bronco II Owners:
Chad Coombs
Tom Grancey [see Bronco II Forum for e-mail address]

302 V-8 Bronco II Owner:
Paul Mohr mailto: pmohr tcpost1.lof.com

Updated October 15, 1998

The following input from Tom Grancey on May 04, 1998:

OK, I'll try and pass on some more info. I'd like to do it in a public
forum rather than answer everyone's individual questions. The best thing
to do is read my article in the Oct 97 issue of Four Wheeler on this
swap. There's about 4 pages of information and 17-18 pictures. Here's
what I can remember about this, bear in mind that I might miss a few
small parts here and there since I'm recalling this from memory, not my
documentation.


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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:45:14 -0500
From: "Rasmussen, Tim"
Subject: FTE Small - RE: 93 Ranger Brakes

>>I recently bought a 93 Ranger and had the brakes done because I
>>thought they were too sensitive. Even after the brake job, the brakes
>>are still very sensitive. (Just touching the brake pedal lightly is
>>more than enough to stop abubtly) I was told by the brake mechanic
>>that this is a characteristic of the 93 Ranger. Is this correct????

>>Is there a way to fix this problem, or at least improve the brakes??

>>Thanks for any suggestions!

>>Jay


I have had similar problems with my Ranger...I've just learned to deal
with it. I just had the original brakes re-done (70,000 miles off the
originals!!!) -- and I seem to have the same problems.

TimR>

- ---------------------------
Timothy Rasmussen
tim worship.net
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
Timothy Rasmussen
Digital Editor/Broadcast Designer
PraiseTV/The Worship Network
The Christian Network, Inc.
ph. 727-536-0036 x314
e-mail: tim worship.net

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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:43:08 PST
From: "Joe Mitchell"
Subject: FTE Small - Re: lowering Ranger 4wd

>From: Tim Turner

>Umm.. I've had posts/threads deleted in other forums for my views about
>lowering trucks so all I'll do is agree and step aside before I get in
>trouble again...
>
>Tim Turner/Manic Mechanic

Ok, heres my $.02, I don't think that lowering a 4WD is a great idea,
but there's nothing wrong with lowriders/sport trucks. I must say that i
like sport trucks, and VERY few lowriders. Lowering can increase
performance, if not just for looks. I guess it's something most people
don't agree on. Oh well, like I said, just my $.02 .
- --
Joe
- --
I'd push a Ford before I drove a Chevy, but I don't need to.
- --
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.angelfire.com/tx/tru2datank/index.html


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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:14:38 -0800
From: Thom Cheney
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Re: lowering Ranger 4wd

Joe Mitchell wrote:
>

> Ok, heres my $.02, I don't think that lowering a 4WD is a great idea,
> but there's nothing wrong with lowriders/sport trucks. I must say that i
> like sport trucks, and VERY few lowriders.

Yeah... live and let live... I certainly don't want anyone telling me
what I can or can't drive... Lord knows I get enough of that from my
wife!
- --
Thom Cheney
Early Bronco Entertainment
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.EarlyBroncoEnt.com
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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 12:24:24 -0600
From: "William T. Gunn Jr."
Subject: FTE Small - 93 Ranger brakes/ABS

My Ranger brakes are also not in the least bit sensitive to slight pedal
pressure. Sometimes they stick or grab first thing in the morning, but I
just put slight pressure on the pedal for a few hundred feet to warm them
up, dry them off and remove any surface corrosion that has built up on
them. After that they work great, and have never failed to work as
expected. I would suggest you contact a ford dealer with your problem and
see what they say. Otherwise have your mechanic check out the entire brake
system; fluid, MC, lines, pads, rotors,ABS, etc.

I have had the opportunity to use the ABS a couple of times in the last
two years and they work as advertised, just jam the pedal to the floor and
you stop, I would say even quicker than threshold braking. Reaction time is
the big difference here, the computer can operate the brakes faster and
more evenly than a well trained threshold braker. After all, a human has to
think about the process, which may take a few more milliseconds than the
computer, and time equals distance when you are moving a mass at high speed.

Bill


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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 13:56:42 -0500
From: Chuck Anderson
Subject: FTE Small - 2.9 to 4.0 Swap

I have a 90 Bronco II, 2.9, auto trans, 4X4, with 157,000 miles. The
drivetrain is doing just fine. But, in time I know this may go. Will a
4.0 out of a newer Ranger or Explorer bolt in? Or could I use both engine
and transmission out of the newer vehicle? What changes will I need to
make to my present vehicle to make this swap? I know that the horsepower
doesn't go up drastically, but the 4.0 has more torque than the 2.9. Also,
there seems to be better sources for parts for the 4.0 than the 2.9. Any
help is appreciated?
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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 12:24:24 PST
From: "Dan Funk"
Subject: FTE Small - 4wd Driving

I am the PROUD 1 month owner of a 94 Explorer (auto,4wd,4 new studded
tires & 4 wheel ABS). I just had my 1st experiance driving on snow with
4wd. I have many years of snow driving experience. While driving on snow
through a corner, with my foot off of the gas, the truck started to
drift to the outside of the turn, I gently applied a little gas and the
truck regained traction.
Why did the truck start to drift? Was it because the front wheels have a
differential lock that prevents them from turning at different speeds in
a corner, or was it something else? Yes, I know speed was a factor;
however, in a rwd the back wants to swap ends.
How does the physics of 4wd driving differ from rwd or fwd?
Why did applying a little gas put the truck back on track?
My usual slippery-surface driving style is to straight-line brake going
into a corner and coast or apply gas going through it. I think I
understand (no ego here) the concept of wieght transfer while
accelerating - "wieght" shifts to the rear, that doesn't seem to explain
to me why applying the gas gave me front- wheel traction.

Dan Funk
94 Explorer XLT
87 Mustang 2.3l

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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:20:55 EST
From: Blest25913 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Small - Rear Weight

In a message dated 11/21/98 5:31:10 AM, you wrote:


of wood piled in the back. You'd get great traction, but you'd also
turn the truck into a giant curling puck if you ever got above 35 MPH on
a slick road.

Any thoughts?

- - -Patrick

>>>>>>>
Not if you have ABS.
Ron "Grampy" Trampe
'96 Ranger 4X4 ABS

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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:05:14 EST
From: Blest25913 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Small - Lowering 4wd

In a message dated 11/24/98 5:49:16 AM, you wrote:


Subject: Re: FTE Small - Lowering ranger 4wd

Why the he## would you lower a 4wd. LIFT IS GOOD
>>

I second that.
Ron "Grampy" Trampe
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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:16:57 EST
From: Blest25913 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Small - Service Histories

The first time I sent this, I forgot to change the subject:

In a message dated 11/23/98 5:47:08 AM, you wrote:


I have a 92 ranger
same situation - only one problem with it in 6 years - 1 flat tire
oh, and I have gone through 3 headlamp bulbs.

Now if they could only make better tires :)

LOVE that truck

>your are right about that Joe.
>I have a 92 ranger with 140k on it.
>Only had 2 problems with it.
>1 ran out of gas once
>2 had a flat tire.

>John
>Louisiana, Missouri.
== >>>>>>
I have 77,000 miles on my '96 Ranger. Its on its fourth radiator and second
transmission. But its great in snow, and its great for emergency stops (of
which I've had to make two) thanks to my 4 wheel ABS.
Ron "Grampy" Trampe

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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 17:26:26 -0700
From: "Robert Eberhardt"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 93 Ranger Brakes

It's amazing how many times someone will say "they all do that" when they
have no idea how to fix the problem. The three '93 Rangers I drove before I
bought my '94 never exhibited the problem you described. Maybe your brakes
will get better with use, but it is not a characteristic of a '93 Ranger. I
bet you'd find that the brakes were the same in '94 and mine never did it
even after 24,000 miles.

Robert

>
>Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 10:14:23 -0800 (PST)
>From: Jay Mazzetta
>Subject: FTE Small - 93 Ranger Brakes
>
>I recently bought a 93 Ranger and had the brakes done because I
>thought they were too sensitive. Even after the brake job, the brakes
>are still very sensitive. (Just touching the brake pedal lightly is
>more than enough to stop abubtly) I was told by the brake mechanic
>that this is a characteristic of the 93 Ranger. Is this correct????
>
>Is there a way to fix this problem, or at least improve the brakes??
>
>Thanks for any suggestions!
>
>Jay


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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:30:06 -0500
From: helotie juno.com (Mark A Helotie)
Subject: FTE Small - Gotta go Back In Time! :)

On Tue, 28 Aug 1956 06:21:58 -0600 Dave Armbruster
writes:

> I used to live in Missouri and now live in Colorado. [snip]


Hey Dave... the curiousity is killing me...

What's it like to drive that Delorean with a nuclear reactor
in the back seat? (Check out the date of your post.)



Mark :)
[mh_hockey juno.com]




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Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:10:44 -0600
From: "Gary Snook"
Subject: FTE Small - Re: Winter Weight

I use my 94 Ranger X cab as a work vehicle. That for me means lots of
tools and parts and a topper to keep them dry. I have the 1450lb payload
package on my truck. I figure the glass topper goes about 300lbs. Then
there are all the tools, maybe another 200Lbs. Then 100lbs of parts.
Several thousand feet of 18guage wire must go at least another 100 or so....
Add in tech manuals, winter clothing, suitcases, laptop PC, and it all must....

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