small-list-digest Saturday, November 7 1998 Volume 02 : Number 311



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

RE: FTE Small - More on: Engine Stalled, Compressor seized
Re: FTE Small - More on: Engine... Attn: Bob Johnson
FTE Small - Too Hott to handle
Re: FTE Small - Too Hott to handle
FTE Small - Couple of ranger and explorer questions
FTE Small - Starters, parts cost
FTE Small - 91 2.3L end play, oil leaks. rebuild questions.
Re: FTE Small - Starters, parts cost
Re: FTE Small - 91 2.3L end play, oil leaks. rebuild questions.

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 08:40:14 -0600
From: "Bob Johnson"
Subject: RE: FTE Small - More on: Engine Stalled, Compressor seized

I'm not an A/C expert, but I'm wondering if even a seized compressor would
be enough of a load to stall the engine - wouldn't it just tear up or slip
the belt? Happened to me once - the belt just burned up. If it is enough of
a load - that load might be coming from the idler/tensioner pulley (if you
have one). I'm pretty sure there is a load-sensing system that's supposed to
increase the idle speed when the A/C is on - might that not be messed up and
causing the stall? Just a thought.

Also, the "tightens then frees up" feeling you describe sounds like the
compressor going through it's compression stroke. Might not be a problem at
all.

If it does turn out to be an A/C system problem and you have to open the
system to fix it, my understanding is that you must evacuate the system with
a vacuum pump after the fix and before recharging - probably not something
you can do yourself. Like yours, my budget always tells me to do it myself -
so I'd do as much of the fix as I could and then take it to an A/C shop to
have it evacuated and (maybe) recharged - although R134a recharge kits are
pretty cheap around here.

Final thought - there's a shop in my town that does nothing but rebuild A/C
components and make "custom" A/C hoses - a lot cheaper than any replacement
parts except from junk yards. You may be able to find a similar operation
where you are. If you are anywhere near North Texas, drop me a line and I'll
look-up some contact info for that shop for you.

Good luck.

Bob

- -----Original Message-----
Subject: FTE Small - More on: Engine Stalled, Compressor siezed

I got a chance today to get under the hood and see what's happening. I
got up the guts to try the AC again and the engine stalled immediately, as
before. I took off the belt, started the truck, engaged the compressor and
tried to turn it by hand. After a little resistance, I got it to turn.
Then the clutch disengaged so I turned the truck off and tried to turn it
some more while pushing in the clutch with my hands. It will turn without
much effort, but the motion is not smooth. It tightens and then frees up.
Seems like a blown compressor. Any reason I should think otherwise? I
think the engine could turn it at idle now. Although I think I may have got
lucky that it happened so suddenly that the system didn't get contaminated
too far downstream and I don't want to risk destroying more components so it
stays off for now.
Anybody have this happen and know how much a compressor costs (4.0L,
R134a)? Anybody know who supplies Ford with the compressor, perhaps I could
find the same one in the aftermarket? Or any aftermarket companies that
have good quality? As a poor college student, I don't think I can afford to
have Ford do it so I'll be doing it myself.

Thanks,
Tony

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 13:43:58 -0500
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - More on: Engine... Attn: Bob Johnson

>I'm not an A/C expert, but I'm wondering if even a seized compressor >would
be enough of a load to stall the engine
...
>Also, the "tightens then frees up" feeling you describe sounds like the
>compressor going through it's compression stroke. Might not be a >problem
at all.


Thanks for your response, it got me thinking and I want to make damn
sure that the diagnosis is correct as this is a costly repair.
It also seemed odd to me that the engine would stall and not just burn
up the belt and I couldn't remember exactly how the "tightens then frees up"
felt to be sure it wasn't just the compression stroke. I thought the
rotation was abnormal, but to be sure, I checked again today in more detail.
I gained a little more insight today. The compressor rotation is
definatly not right. By hand, the compressor will rotate about 2+
revolutions easily with one hand. Around the third revolution it will stick
and take both hands and a whole lot of effort to rotate it. Then the cycle
repeats. I don't know how many pistons this compressor has (maybe 3), but I
think this tells me that one of them is shot.
As far as it stalling, I am still confused. This happened at idle I
haven't tried to engage the compressor at higher RPMs. I would imagine the
belt would slip then. The belt has better than 90 deg. of wrap. I guess
that is enough friction to stall it.

>If it does turn out to be an A/C system problem and you have to open the
system to fix it, my understanding...

I talked to a few more people and the consensus was that I had better at
least have a shop evacuate and purge the system, since I probobly couldn't
get all the contaminants (schrapnel) out myself.

>Final thought - there's a shop in my town that does nothing but rebuild
>... you are anywhere near North Texas...

I appreciate the offer, but I'm in Ohio.

Thanks,
Tony
'94 Ranger Supercab, 4.0L, 5-Speed
_______________________________________________________
GO BUCKS, #1 in the BCS, #1 in the AP poll, #1 in the Coaches Poll

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 14:57:15 EST
From: FORD3644 AOL.COM
Subject: FTE Small - Too Hott to handle

Hi,
I have an 87' ranger 2.9 4x4 ext. cab and i have one problem. Every time i
try to take off the back tires start spinning. Can anyone help me
LoL
Mark Jackson
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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 15:34:08 -0500
From: Jim Storch
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Too Hott to handle

FORD3644 AOL.COM wrote:
>
> Hi,
> I have an 87' ranger 2.9 4x4 ext. cab and i have one problem. Every time i
> try to take off the back tires start spinning. Can anyone help me
> LoL
> Mark Jackson

Mark,

Here's a couple things you might try:
- - 2.50:1 gears with 38" tires should keep you from spinning
- - Swap for a Chevy S10 engine (should be about the same effect).

JimS
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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 15:18:03 PST
From: "Bryan Snyder"
Subject: FTE Small - Couple of ranger and explorer questions

What is the width of a disc brake rear from a late model explorer wheel
mounting surface to wheel mounting surface? I REALLY need to know this!!

I have a ranger supercab with rear quarter glass the does not open.
What will it take to convert to the "vent" type? I heard the interior
trim around the inside of the window is differant.

If I use a 92 Mustang 5.0 HO longblock can I use a computer and auto
tranny from a 93 on?


Thanks all for any answers!

Bryan

______________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 12:34:30 -0800
From: Richard
Subject: FTE Small - Starters, parts cost

I've been following the posts about problems with rebuilt starters.

Today, Timothy J Ake wrote-------------------------------
quoting from Michael -----------
>This is is the third
>one to go out in about a year.

Between 1984 and 1986 my brand new Ranger XLT went through 5 starters.
The
problem appeared to be Ford's V6 starters. The biggest problem was that
Checkers or Grand Auto or Pep Boys or Chief or any other CA parts stores
didn't carry (or else weren't authorized to carry) them. I ended up
buying
the first one from a Ford dealer; (snip) he didn't have
the part it was in LA, so I had to pay freight as well. I was pretty
bugged
about paying almost $140 for a part that every other vehicle (including
4
cyl. Rangers) could get for about $30.

I continue----------------------------------------------------

What gives? I can understand being offered junky rebuilts from the
chain stores after I noticed, years ago, that Grand Auto was selling
rebuilt carbuerators that were gussied up with aluminum paint(!). But
hasn't anyone had good luck with starters from a small local rebuilder?

Second, I'm assuming that ther $140 dealer price was for a rebuild. Is
it my imagination?: My experience is limited, having only owned a Ford
product for a year, but it seems as if the dealer's parts prices are
powerfully steep. I paid $70 for one of those compound-bent, "Y"d
Aerostar heater hoses. I mean, that seemed to be an "above Toyota
price." Has Ford raised their parts prices so that they equal or exceed
import prices?

Richard

- --
!! NOTE: TO REPLY, REMOVE THE STRING: "REMOVE.THIS.TO.REPLY" FROM MY
ADDRESS !!

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Date: Fri, 6 Nov 1998 20:29:06 -0500
From: "Dave Schultz"
Subject: FTE Small - 91 2.3L end play, oil leaks. rebuild questions.

Thanks to all for the info from my previous questions.
I have determined that the end-play on the crank is almost 1mm.
You can really move the crank in and out alot.

The engine has only 82000 miles. I am considering letting it leak oil for
the winter
and rebuilding the bottom end in the spring.

My question is: will any 2.3L short block work as a replacement for the
one I have?

I might be able to get a 2.3L short block and rebuild it before taking my
truck
off the road. I also fear with all the end play I have that the crank may
be lunched.
I have a friend that may get me a block from a late 70's Capri 2.3. any
thoughts.

Thanks

Dave Schultz

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Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 21:44:58 -0500
From: Tim Turner
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Starters, parts cost

Richard wrote:
>
> I've been following the posts about problems with rebuilt starters.
>

> about paying almost $140 for a part that every other vehicle (including
> 4
> cyl. Rangers) could get for about $30.
>
> I continue----------------------------------------------------
>
> What gives? I can understand being offered junky rebuilts from the
> chain stores after I noticed, years ago, that Grand Auto was selling
> rebuilt carbuerators that were gussied up with aluminum paint(!). But
> hasn't anyone had good luck with starters from a small local rebuilder?

Yes.. Coastal Rebuilders here in Wilmington NC has been a very good
supplier for the shops I've worked in here for the last 9 years. No help
for you CA guys; but they ARE out there!

>
> Second, I'm assuming that ther $140 dealer price was for a rebuild. Is
> it my imagination?: My experience is limited, having only owned a Ford
> product for a year, but it seems as if the dealer's parts prices are
> powerfully steep. I paid $70 for one of those compound-bent, "Y"d
> Aerostar heater hoses. I mean, that seemed to be an "above Toyota
> price." Has Ford raised their parts prices so that they equal or exceed
> import prices?

A lot depends on the particular dealer's markup; between the Ford and
Mercury dealers in town the Merc. part is usually cheaper, but if I go
20 Minutes up the interstate I can get it even cheaper at THAT local
Ford dealer. It pays to call around! Some parts are even cheaper at
the delaer than aftermarket.. (even the boneyard once in a RARE while).
BTW that Y-hose was a snot to change wasnt it!? But then there isnt
much that IS easy on those beasties.

Tim Turner/Manic Mechanic
Custer Auto Repair
Wilmington NC
>
> Richard
>
> --
> !! NOTE: TO REPLY, REMOVE THE STRING: "REMOVE.THIS.TO.REPLY" FROM MY
> ADDRESS !!
>
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Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 02:35:06 EST
From: Bakend AOL.COM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 91 2.3L end play, oil leaks. rebuild questions.

In a message dated 98-11-06 20:30:40 EST, you write:


I might be able to get a 2.3L short block and rebuild it before taking my
truck
off the road. I also fear with all the end play I have that the crank may
be lunched.
I have a friend that may get me a block from a late 70's Capri 2.3. any
thoughts.

Thanks

Dave Schultz
>>
Where are you located? I have a 79 Crapi with 2.3 Turbo (Turbo removed) built
with cast pistons and balanced with about 45K on rebuild that I would like to
get rid of. It is located in South Dakota. Couple hundered and you could drive....


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