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Date: Tue, 12 May 1998 04:00:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: owner-small-list-digest ford-trucks.com (small-list-digest)
To: small-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list-digest V2 #130
Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Sender: owner-small-list-digest ford-trucks.com
Errors-To: owner-small-list-digest ford-trucks.com


small-list-digest Tuesday, May 12 1998 Volume 02 : Number 130



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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In this issue:

FTE Small - Radius arms and roll cages
FTE Small - Ranger Supercab Noise Solved
FTE Small - Throttle Sticking
FTE Small - Throtle sticking
FTE Small - Rear Main Oil Seal...2 Piece?
FTE Small - Rear Main Oil Seal...2 Piece?

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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 07:45:33 -0800
From: Brad Allerheiligen
Subject: FTE Small - Radius arms and roll cages

I have the 5 inch stage II ProComp lift with extended radius, and am
pretty happy with the performance with the exception of the increased
bumpsteer. Anybody else experience the same? Any solutions? If you
have the $'s I have heard fantastic things about Donohoe Racing
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.donahoeracing.com/ check em out.

Good luck,
- -Brad- 94 Ranger XLT 2wd Prerunner (NSTYXLT)

>>> small-list-digest 05/10/98 12:00am
From: KDRESSEL
Subject: FTE Small - Radius arms and roll cages

I am looking at get a set of extended radius arms for my 86 ranger. Any
one have any suggestions on the type to get. I have a 4" lift kit on it
now. I think it is a rough country but the original owner I bought the
truck from diddn't know for sure Any suggestions.
Has any one used the roll cage from smittybuilt? What are your thoughts
of it?
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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 13:25:44 -0400
From: "Anthony Rifici"
Subject: FTE Small - Ranger Supercab Noise Solved

After more than 8 months of dealing with this problem, I may have solved
it.

To refresh, my sliding rear window frame is rubbing up against the cab
and is making a loud sticking/unsticking sound. It is especially noticeable
when going around corners or going over bumps.

I talked to many Ford dealers and glass shops. I posted the problem
twice on both the small and 80+ lists. This did not get me anywhere. Ford
dealers never heard of it. Several glass shops told me that it was not
possible for this to happen. The List had some good ideas of causes other
than the window, but it is the window.

Today, I took the truck to a fifth glass shop. Jackpot! Not only did
has the guy heard of the problem, he knows what causes it. I thought I
would share this with the list in case anybody else develops this problem.

The SC rear window is one complete assembly. There is no rubber gasket
as in regular cab models. This is called encapsulated glass. The whole
assembly is bolted into the cab with a small bead of butyl sealer at the
window cut-out. As you can see on SCs, the glass is larger, by about 2 in,
than the opening to hide the bolts and protect the sealer. My noise was
coming from the outside edges of the assembly, at the 1/2" of rubber
surrounding the glass.

Since there is no gasket to go between the frame and the cab, the
plastic which makes up the 1/2" molding extends under the glass to create
the frame that slides into the cab. The plastic is supposed to contain a
good deal of Teflon to allow the window frame to slide against the cab
(without any noise). Apparently, some windows have more Teflon than others
(from the sound of it, mine has none) or it has weathered away. Thus, the
rear window frame is chafing on the cab. Unfortunately this cannot be fixed
an there is no guarantee that a new window won't do the same thing. There
is some spray on Teflon coating that costs about $80 for couple floz. So
next week I am going to buy some 3M tape for attaching body moldings. Then
the glass guy and I are going to take out the window and line it with the
tape and re-install it. This should fix it.

Ford has never documented this problem. GM has. They have big problems
with this on Cavilers.

Thought you would like to know and I'll send an update on whether the
tape worked.

Later,
Tony


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Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:43:55 EDT
From: FrdRngrLvr
Subject: FTE Small - Throttle Sticking

I have a 90 ranger, and I am having trouble with the throttle sticking..It
does not happen all of the time, just spuraticly, and usually if i put it into
nutral it goes away..but that is noit working as well anymore....I have tried
spraying it with wd-40 and dura-lube but that is not doing anything....Can
anybody help...

Thank you,
Jim
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 14:10:09 -0500
From: John Cassis
Subject: FTE Small - Throtle sticking

Jim,

Mine was doing the same thing. It was my TP sensor.

John Cassis
93' STX 4x4 3.0/5-speed

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 May 1998 21:06:09 -0500
From: "Jeffrey B. Pace"
Subject: FTE Small - Rear Main Oil Seal...2 Piece?

Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

I just bought a project truck. It's an 83 (late) with a 2.3 liter, 4
speed manual. The rear main oil seal is leaking. I pulled the
transmission, but I really don't know what I'm looking at now.

After pulling the flywheel and calling my parts store, they asked if
I had the two piece or the one piece seal. I still have no idea.

I have to assume (after visiting my new friends at Autozone) that I
have the two piece seal. There is just no way that the solid seal will
fit between the crank and the block.

Now, for the big question. Do I have to remove the rear main bearing
to replace a two piece seal, or can I get to it by removing just the oil
pan ?

Send help fast. My truck is on stands in the carport.

Thanks

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------------------------------

Date: 11 May 1998 20:38:04 EDT
From: Hawk sktc.net
Subject: FTE Small - Rear Main Oil Seal...2 Piece?

SM> Any help on this subject would be greatly appreciated.

SM> I just bought a project truck. It's an 83 (late) with a 2.3 liter, 4
SM>speed manual. The rear main oil seal is leaking. I pulled the
SM>transmission, but I really don't know what I'm looking at now.

SM> After pulling the flywheel and calling my parts store, they asked if
SM>I had the two piece or the one piece seal. I still have no idea.

SM> I have to assume (after visiting my new friends at Autozone) that I
SM>have the two piece seal. There is just no way that the solid seal will
SM>fit between the crank and the block.

SM> Now, for the big question. Do I have to remove the rear main bearing
SM>to replace a two piece seal, or can I get to it by removing just the oil
SM>pan ?


My Haynes manual #1026, page 2A-15, shows a one piece seal. There is no
mention of a 2 piece seal. That said, every 2 piece seal that I have
ever seen is serviced by dropping the back main. I have never had the
pan off of a 2.3, though. Good luck. Buck Shoff

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