fordtrucks-small-digest Thursday, April 2 1998 Volume 02 : Number 097
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer & Bronco 2
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In this issue:
Low Range Bind?? ["Pete Lawless" ]
Intake Mods for a '94 Ranger 4.0 [Brad Allerheiligen ]
Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited) ["S. HALL"
Re: Intake Mods for a '94 Ranger 4.0 [WHRanger93 ]
Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited) [Bakend
Re: 2.3L Power (Lack of) [Jordan ]
2.3L power (lack of} [Luke Wells ]
Flowmaster exhaust [Dwwinn ]
Re: Soap & Wax! ["Andr E. Benguerel" ]
ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show [Ken Payne ]
headers and catback systems [Richard Salitra ]
Re: Intake Mods for a '94 Ranger 4.0 [Jordan ]
Re: Crappy Front ends in Bronco II/Rangers... ["Lou Guerriero"
Any ideas what might be causing this?....
While in 4Low, going down hill, oh, say every couple 100 yards or so a
"skip" (for lack of a better word) will occur some where in the drivetrain.
You can hear it and feel it. Sort of like something is binding up and
then releasing. Doesn't happen in 4Hi at all and not in 4Low while climbing
or on level. Maybe the T-case??
It's a Ranger with 4.56's and stock tranny and t-case. It's
done it for quite a few years now and doesn't seem to affect anything
or get worse... just annoying.
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 08:40:45 -0800
From: Brad Allerheiligen
Subject: Intake Mods for a '94 Ranger 4.0
I'm looking to start modifying the intake on my '94 4.0 Ranger XLT, and
was wondering what mods any others with this year and engine have
done. I already have a K&N filter, but I'm looking more towards open
element, or at least increasing flow (baffle removal etc.).
More bad news about replacing lifters: Unless your replacing
lifters on a very new engine you should also replace the cam.
I'm no mechanic, but ALL mechanics I talked to when my 2.9
lifters died instructed me that the new lifters wouldn't last
long without a new cam pushing them. I hope it doesn't come
to this for you! The labor for me to have all this done was so
ridiculous that I ended up buying a new (remanufactured)
engine instead. I didn't catch if your lifters are noisy
all the time or just at cold-start-up. If their noisy at
startup only then maybe one of those "snake oil" remedies
would help quiet them down. My "new" engine has about
2,400 miles on it and runs great save for the noisy lifters
every morning -about 400 miles ago I put in synthetic oil
and that "slickest" oil treatment and it helped, still
noisy in the morning but not for very long anymore. Hope
this helps and hope you don't go through what I did,
Date: Wed, 1 Apr 1998 13:57:11 EST
Subject: Re: Intake Mods for a '94 Ranger 4.0
On my way to work yesterday i saw a new F-250 in the parking lot. It was
simply awsome. But it was the new bodystyle. I thought the F-250 was
supposed to be the same body as the F-150? When i was at the Chicago auto
show i saw the 250's with the same body as the 150's. Does anyone know what
the deal is?
In a message dated 4/1/98 10:23:36 AM Mountain Standard Time, shall NMSU.Edu
> My "new" engine has about
> 2,400 miles on it and runs great save for the noisy lifters
> every morning
Does anybody know what the deal is with the 2.9 and noisy lifters? Before my
87 Ranger I owned an 84 bronco 2, and it was noisey, but with solid lifters I
expect some noise. The 2.9 is hydraulic and is noisier than the 2.8! Engine
runs fine except for the noise. I am planning to replace the cam and lifters
... but I dunno!
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 16:00:51 -0600
Subject: Re: 2.3L Power (Lack of)
At 11:55 PM 3/31/98 EST, you wrote:
>I meant to say that I increased the gas mileage by 60+ per tank to over 400
>miles. I know that 60mpg is never going to happen in a truck. Please accept
Okay, now that I truely believe, makes a ton of a difference. how big is
the tank out of curiosity?
>As for being able to keep up with a full size truck, that is
>true. I live in Garland as well and hope to see you around. I drive a black
>reg. cab w/ no front plates. See you round and happy drivin
Okay, full size truck maybe, if it has only a 5.0 or smaller. (I have
driven a f150 with 5.0 and was totally appaled at the lack of
acceleration). Now, my explorer sport (sport = better turning radius, less
weight) with 4.0l mods and manual tranny, that's another story.
Black 2door explorer, red stripe, yellow owl sticker, fire association,
police association stickers on back. Acid on paint on hood.
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 17:28:14 -0500
From: Luke Wells
Subject: 2.3L power (lack of}
Full size v6s doubt it still, 2.3 unless modified a BUNCH get smoked by
school buses trust me, the 2.3 has less hp than any
other truck in its class i think, unless you can think of another
besides the the mazda
I'm having a heck of a time trying to modify my exhaust. Does anyone know if
Flowmaster makes a cat-back system for a 97 Ranger with a 3.0 liter? Their
800 number was worthless. If they don't, where can I just buy a 3 chamber
Flowmaster (I'd like a 3 inch in\dual 2.25 inch out) muffler? Some of the
shops around here have no idea what I'm talking about. I didn't think it
would be this hard just to replace my current system. Any help would be
> Has anybody heard and/or proved what Ford says about clearcoats? A guy I work
> with claims that you don't need to use soap or wax on clearcoats. In fact, it's
> BETTER for the finish if you don't use any.
If you believe your co-worker, I got a bridge to sell you. Ask any
experienced detailer, or paint manufacture, soap and wax help to prolong
the finish of your truck. I'm not referring to cheap wax or home-made
soap solutions (detergents) these can do more harm than good. Use soap
specifically designed for washing cars. Turtle brand Wash & Wax is
actually good, and buy the most expensive wax you can afford. I use
Zymol from Germany at $35, it's specially formulated for dark paint. I
would also stay away from foam sponges at the quarter car wash, they
trap to much dirt that just scratches your paint. Lambs wool or
synthetic wash mitts are the best way to go. I have 3, one for the body,
one for wheels, and one for dirty stuff (fender wells, bed, etc...) Use
a polishing wheel only if your paint has a lot of fallout or debris
stuck in it. Then use the mildest abrasive you can find to remove them.
Many detailers don't even use abrasives. Most fallout and debris are
organic matter that can be softened by a good wash and wax. The trick
with black vehicles is to finish your job with swirl mark remover. The
trade name is "Ebony," any good detail shop should be able to line you
up with it.
Hope this helps!
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 22:17:57 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Pigeon Forge show
It's official, Ford Truck Enthusiasts will have a booth at the
20th Annual F100 Nationals in Pigeon Forge, Tenn! Show dates
are (this is from the promoter himself, there have been
conflicting dates mentioned): May 14-17 (Thursday through
Sunday). We may have the booth space as early as Thursday
morning but it may not get set up until the afternoon (paying
vendors get moved in and setup first). We plan to have the
booth up the entire weekend.
We plan to give out brochures and sell the window stickers
there. I need to get some volunteers to man the booth a couple
of hours each so I don't spend the entire show sitting in a
chair..... I really want to get a chance to look at some of the
trucks! Even taking a 30 minute session would be great so I
could make bathroom runs!
Concerning a Ford Truck Enthusiasts picnic, the entire town
is booked solid. We'll have to informally arrange a time
and place to meet for dinner while at the show.
If you need show information, check out the event guide on the
web site. Looking forward to meeting many of the list members
there. Perhaps the west coast members could arrange to meet at
a west coast show?
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 08:35:16 -0800
From: Richard Salitra
Subject: headers and catback systems
I've got a '98 Ranger SC 4x4 with a 4.0L and manual . I've been doing
alot of research on improving the engine's efficiency and performance,
and have narrowed down my choices as follows:
Kurtz Kustomz since they make an adapter kit and bracket to hold the
air filter without the airbox. K&N doesn't make their entire kit for
the newer 4.0L engines so I'd have to put their filter in the airbox.
either BBK (available immediately) or JBA (available by
mid-summer). couldn't find anyone else who was making headers for the
newer 4.0L engines - I checked with Borla, Vanir, L&L, Pacesetter,
Edelbrock, and a few smaller outfits.
3. catback systems:
either Borla or Bassani, both available immediately.
4. computer chips
Jet since their chip doesn't require premium as does Superchip. but
I'll probably hold off on this until items 1-3 are done and I know I'm
happy with those improvements.
I'm curious what other people's experiences might be with any of these
products and what they might think of their relative quality, design,
performance, etc. Before I part with my hard earned money, I'd welcome
any input. thanks for taking a moment to help out.
Date: Wed, 01 Apr 1998 17:53:29 -0600
Subject: Re: Intake Mods for a '94 Ranger 4.0
At 08:40 AM 4/1/98 -0800, you wrote:
>I'm looking to start modifying the intake on my '94 4.0 Ranger XLT, and
>was wondering what mods any others with this year and engine have
>done. I already have a K&N filter, but I'm looking more towards open
>element, or at least increasing flow (baffle removal etc.).
Try kurtz kustomz, www.kustomz.com I believe. They have a new intake for
the 4.0 it is the only one I know of.
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 1998 01:02:39 -0500
From: "Lou Guerriero"
Subject: Re: Crappy Front ends in Bronco II/Rangers...
I've mentioned/asked about the pulling, wobbling and general lameness
overall of the older model Ranger/Bronco II's front ends... I've always
wondered what it took to actually get it into proper alignment.... with no
I took my truck to an old friend this weekend.... An HONEST mechanic....
and he took a look. He determined the alignment was pretty good... it was
the brakes that needed cleaning up! The ball/U joints were fine... It
just seems that the brakes were sticky.. wanna know why??? Because of the
anti-siezing compound! Go figure! I makes them seize! He swears against
it, and I trust this guy... he would steer you away from ANYTHING that will
cost you money in the long run.. Any way, the alternative is (get this),
standard lube/bearing grease! Not a lot, but man what a world of
I was skeptical.. but I can't believe it.. no more pulling, during driving
or braking... I've had 3 other mechanics look into this in the past.. and
have had the brakes inspected / adjusted, etc, as little as a year ago.
Hope this helps out some people.... Never let'em use "ANTI" seize compound
again! It promotes rust!!!!!!
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