fordtrucks-small-digest Saturday, April 4 1998 Volume 02 : Number 099



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer & Bronco 2
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In this issue:

Re: Wheels [Scott Parent ]
RE: Flowmaster Exhaust ["Pete Lawless" ]
Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited) [Filip M Gieszczyki]
Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited) [Bakend
Re: Anti Sieze compound ["Lou Guerriero" ]
Re: Anti Sieze compound [Ken Payne ]
ADMIN: Recent posts lost [Ken Payne ]
Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited) [Filip M Gieszczyki]
Re: Anti Sieze compound [Filip M Gieszczykiewicz ]
Hydraulic Lifters - 2.9L [Jayme Uldarico Newell ]

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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 13:10:56 -0500
From: Scott Parent
Subject: Re: Wheels

Eric I am very interested in your rims, plaese let me know the price for all
four.

Thanks in advance;
Scott P. 94 STX

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Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 09:36:54 -0800
From: "Pete Lawless"
Subject: RE: Flowmaster Exhaust

My company distributes Flowmaster's Motorhome & RV Kits. Looking in their
1998 Spring Supplement I don't see a CAT Back system listed for your
application...yet. However the specific muffler you're looking for is
listed under the Big Block II 70 Series area.
Specs: 5" Thick x 10" Wide x 22" Case Length.
Part# 530722 is a 3.00" Centered In/Dual 2.25" Out
It shows a tech line # of 800-544-4761

I had my local muffler shop build a system for me for my Ranger 2.9ltr 4x4
from the Y-pipe back. This included two new high flow Catalytic Converters
(rated for a big block V8), 3" In/2.25" Out Flowmaster and custom bent
2.25" Tailpipe with heavy-duty hangers w/ Poly bushings. The system's
rock-solid and with the JBA headers sounds Great! Truck was smogged a month
after installation and passed no problem.
Later.... Pete

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 13:46:08 -0600 (CST)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited)

You (Bakend) wrote:
> In a message dated 4/1/98 10:23:36 AM Mountain Standard Time, shall NMSU.Edu
> writes:
> > My "new" engine has about
> > 2,400 miles on it and runs great save for the noisy lifters
> > every morning
>
> Does anybody know what the deal is with the 2.9 and noisy lifters? Before my
> 87 Ranger I owned an 84 bronco 2, and it was noisey, but with solid lifters I
> expect some noise. The 2.9 is hydraulic and is noisier than the 2.8! Engine
> runs fine except for the noise. I am planning to replace the cam and lifters
> ... but I dunno!

My 87 Bronco II does NOT have noisy lifters... 140K miles... _first_ engine.
Could this be related to oil? I use _generic_ 5W30... nothing special abouto
it. Religious 3K changes. Considering a new oil pump as preventative maint.

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 15:43:46 EST
From: Bakend
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited)

In a message dated 4/3/98 12:46:46 PM Mountain Standard Time,
filipg paranoia.com writes:

>
> My 87 Bronco II does NOT have noisy lifters... 140K miles... _first_
engine.
> Could this be related to oil? I use _generic_ 5W30... nothing special
abouto
> it. Religious 3K changes. Considering a new oil pump as preventative maint.
>
Thanks,
I have same milage as you , but on second engine (previous owner changed
engine at 100K due to noisey lifters) I use the same oil (Valvoline and change
every 3000 miles. Why are you considering oil pump change? Is it a tough job
to drop the oil pan? I'm considering the pump change along with the cam.
D Baken

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Apr 1998 19:35:28 -0500
From: "Lou Guerriero"
Subject: Re: Anti Sieze compound

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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charset="iso-8859-1"
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Quoted text
_________________________

Hi Lou,
I'm sorry, but I do not understand. Where exactly was the anti-seize
compound that was giving you problems? Was it on the pin things that
the calipers float on or somewhere else? I would really like to know.
Buck Shoff
_________________________

Hi Buck, yes, thats exactly where it was... and a couple of other =
places too, that I can't really name because I don't know my parts well =
enough. Suffice to say that when getting disk brakes "adjusted" =
everywhere they use the wire brush to remove deposits (read:rust), that =
is where the compound would have been... Instead of compound, put lube =
grease. What a difference man! My truck has ALWAYS pulled one way or =
another.. I just chalked it up to old vehicle, ya know? But now, I only =
feel any pulls when hitting ruts, etc during the braking.. which would =
be totally normal! I figure now I can put on a steering stabilizer to =
avoid bump steer and fix up that little bit of pull when braking on =
bumpy areas too!

What an amazing feeling it was to take my hands off the wheel (to =
test it) and depress the brake and stay in my own lane!

Lou Guerriero
________________________________
E-Mail: loug bigfoot.com=20
OR loucifur hotmail.com=20
ICQ UIN: 1235438
Kali NN: Loucifur


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Quoted text

size=3D2>_________________________
 
Hi Lou,I'm sorry, but I do not understand.  Where exactly =
was the=20
anti-seizecompound that was giving you problems?  Was it on the =
pin=20
things thatthe calipers float on or somewhere else?  I would =
really=20
like to know.Buck Shoff_________________________ 
 
    Hi =
Buck, yes,=20
thats exactly where it was...   and a couple of other places =
too, that=20
I can't really name because I don't know my parts well enough.  =
Suffice to=20
say that when getting disk brakes "adjusted" everywhere they =
use the=20
wire brush to remove deposits (read:rust), that is where the compound =
would have=20
been...  Instead of compound, put lube grease.  What a =
difference=20
man!  My truck has ALWAYS pulled one way or another.. I just =
chalked it up=20
to old vehicle, ya know?  But now, I only feel any pulls when =
hitting ruts,=20
etc during the braking.. which would be totally normal!  I figure =
now I can=20
put on a steering stabilizer to avoid bump steer and fix up that little =
bit of=20
pull when braking on bumpy areas too!

size=3D3> 
    =
What an amazing=20
feeling it was to take my hands off the wheel (to test it) and depress =
the brake=20
and stay in my own lane!

size=3D3> 
Lou=20
Guerriero________________________________E-Mail:   =
;  =20
loug bigfoot.com=20
OR          
href=3D"mailto:loucifur hotmail.com">loucifur hotmail.com ICQ =
UIN:=20
1235438Kali NN:  =20
Loucifur 

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BD5F37.A866EEC0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 20:24:10 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Re: Anti Sieze compound

At 07:35 PM 4/3/98 -0500, you wrote:





- -snip-

>>>>

little bit of pull when braking on bumpy areas
too! What an amazing feeling it was to take my
hands off the wheel (to test it) and depress the brake and stay in my
own lane! Lou Guerriero

________________________________

E-Mail: loug bigfoot.com

OR loucifur hotmail.com

ICQ UIN: 1235438

Kali NN: Loucifur





Please, no html. HTML will now be filtered out and posts with

it will be rejected.

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Date: Fri, 03 Apr 1998 21:49:38 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: Recent posts lost

Due to a configuration error on my part, several emails
didn't get posted to the lists, especially if you use
a Microsoft email product. This has now been corrected.
Wait a few hours and if you post doesn't show up, send it again.


Ken Payne
CoAdmin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 01:05:12 -0600 (CST)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Re: Hydraulic Lifter Repair - 2.9L Ranger (Revisited)

You (Bakend) wrote:
> In a message dated 4/3/98 12:46:46 PM Mountain Standard Time,
> filipg paranoia.com writes:
>
> > My 87 Bronco II does NOT have noisy lifters... 140K miles... _first_
> > engine. Could this be related to oil? I use _generic_ 5W30...
> > nothing special about it. Religious 3K changes.
> > Considering a new oil pump as preventative maint.
>
> I have same milage as you , but on second engine (previous owner changed
> engine at 100K due to noisey lifters) I use the same oil (Valvoline and change
> every 3000 miles. Why are you considering oil pump change?

I figure a new oil pump will remove any doubts from my head about
insufficient oil volume and pressure. I hope to find a high-volume
pump (I've seen them for other engines but so far not for the 2.9L)
to make up for the increased clearances due to wear. I hope to get
at least another 60-80K out of this engine and then _probably_ do a
(mustang) v8 conversion... but that depends if I can use the A4LD
tranny (which is what I have and like).

> Is it a tough job to drop the oil pan? I'm considering the pump
> change along with the cam.

It looks like the engine needs to be raised and jacked in place
for the duration of the change... ie. a pain in the butt. A whole
bunch of things needs to be disconnected... I'm 1/8th of the
way into replacing all body mounts (poly replacements + all new
grade 8 bolts) so it depends in what kind of "mood" I'll be in when
I'm done with that job. I'm doing welding too... I got this car
knowing all the problems... and since only a fool would drive
to college (parking is deadly around here), I've been lazily
working on this things to take my mind off studies :-)

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 01:22:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Filip M Gieszczykiewicz
Subject: Re: Anti Sieze compound

You (Lou Guerriero) wrote:
>Hi Buck, yes, thats exactly where it was... and a couple of other places
>too, that I can't really name because I don't know my parts well enough.
>Suffice to say that when getting disk brakes "adjusted" everywhere they
>use the wire brush to remove deposits (read:rust), that is where the
>compound would have been... Instead of compound, put lube grease.
>What a difference man! My truck has ALWAYS pulled one way or another..
>I just chalked it up to old vehicle, ya know? But now, I only feel
>any pulls when hitting ruts, etc during the braking.. which would be
>totally normal! I figure now I can put on a steering stabilizer
>to avoid bump steer and fix up that little bit of pull when
>braking on bumpy areas too!
>
>What an amazing feeling it was to take my hands off the wheel (to test
>it) and depress the brake and stay in my own lane!

[PLEASE wrap your text at 75 columns... that was all ONE line! Geez]

I beg to differ. I have been using anti-seize _intelligently_ on
all the cars I keep and work on (that'd be 4 daily drivers and
a long-trip van) and I have experienced _zero_ problems due to
the lubricant. "_intelligently_" implies that it's never applied
to any surface that may cause it to leak or splatter or melt onto
the brake surfaces (that would cause slipness on THAT side and the
car would "pull" to the opposite)... and anywhere else where it
might get in the way of proper operation. It's use is downright
_critical_ on our cheezy Toyota Camry (85)... it has sliding
calipers to maintain parallel application of pads and these are
protected with little rubber boots on both sides of the travel.
Unfortunately _all_ high temperature greases I have tried vaporize
after a few months. Quality anti-seize has held up since last
application 2 years ago... even when it vaporizes, the "lubricant"
(in the form of copper, molybdenite, and/or graphite) stays behind
and does the job. I've previously replaced the sliders ($40 for
the pair on each front wheel) 3 times... made me lose any respect
for toyota brake designs.

I also use the compound between the pads and the piston to both
keep it from rusting and also from making odd noises.

I believe that _proper_ (and "consider worst-case scenario"
anticipation) application of the compound will not cause problems.
In your case, a good cleaning and brusing of the componens
(and probably a lube job?) is what cured the pulling problem.
Unless you did the whole repair and can describe what was done
to the truck to make it "better" I would hesitate just dumping
the use of the compound.

[Gosh, it's late and I'm blabbing :-]

Take care.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 4 Apr 1998 00:41:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Jayme Uldarico Newell
Subject: Hydraulic Lifters - 2.9L

Thanks to all those who have responded about the hyrdraulic lifter post a
few issues ago. Well, from what I have ascertained from this list and
talking with other people is that to do a complete lifter job entails the
following parts:

complete head gasket set(includes rocker cover, intake manifold, fuel
injection gaskets) $45 bucks
heads need to be resurfaced as well as possible valve job (around $100
bucks here in Santa Cruz, CA)
stretch bolts (45 bucks)
new camshaft for high mileage engines (around $100 bucks?)
lifters ($4 bucks each x 12 = 48 bucks)

for a total of somewhere around $350w/tax if you do it yourself.

Has anyone done this job? Am I missing anything? I'm going to do this
....


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