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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Sun, 25 Jun 2000 22:03:48 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 22:03:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #95
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small-list Digest Fri, 23 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 095

In This Issue:
Re: [Brake Shoes]
Re: [Re: Brake Question]
Vacuum leak???

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 24 Jun 00 00:32:02 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Brake Shoes]

Skip this if looking for a rcommended brand..

"Richard Steinfeld" lmi.net> wrote:
>
> Rick Blanchard wrote
------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Any recommended shoes/pads? Someone said AutoZone carbon metallic were
good
> (as long as I load up on anti-squeak gel)..
>
> My reply
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> I thought I'd jump in here as I just had the pads replaced on my Aerostar
after attempting some research beforehand.
>
> Let me preface my remarks by saying that I've almost been killed by inferior
linings twice in my life, and take this subject very seriously.

So do I; both professionally and personally.

>
> First, you are always pretty safe by installing dealer linings: Ford
>doesn't want your heirs to sue them.

Good point.

> I also paid an American $6 for a genuine Ford thermostat, bearing the > the
legend "Mexico." I ain't thrilled, guys.

$6 ? Pay more and get the 'super' ones on the aftermarket then.

> The OEM pads (USA) look and feel excellent, stopping like a new Aerostar.

I have *YET* to find an acceptable pad for Kim's '93 Capri; she's OK with the
replacements, but to me the pedal effort is high and the stopping long
compared to what was on the vehicle when we purchased it used.

>
> Why did I knowingly pay an outrageous price for them? Because I couldn't >
get anywhere when I tried to discuss models and quality with any of the >
local parts houses.

"We got "Bendix" (or Raybestos or etc.)

> Raybestos is also slightly useful, especially if you send them email. I >
said that I drive on local mountain roads, and need to handle long > freeway
grades in hot weather (conditions under which lousy linings have > melted on
me in the past). They replied with a recommendation for their > product line
used for police cars.

Probably a good choice; it'd be interesting to see how they did for you.


> What I learned overall was this: You can get harder linings that will > wear
longer, but may have awkward pedal modulation (brake feel). You can > get
linings that will stop shorter, but will wear out your disks sooner. > It is
mostly tradeoffs. Within a quality manufacturer's same model line, > there
will be manufacturing variations optimized for individual > vehicles.

Often even patterned from the OEM parts; imagine that! The variation from
manufacturer to manufacturer is amazing and as you point out they all have
their ideas of what is OK or 'better'.

> Finally, I gave up and simply let myself get ripped off at the dealer >
rather than put any more time into it.

I'd say "Paid the premium for dealer parts", but that's just my bias.

> getting the product you want from your local parts houses may be >
impossible.

At best. But some of the aftermarket ideas *may* be of better service to you.
I'm hoping to try some of the 'ceramic' mix type pads if available at the
next service on the Capri. When it comes to brakes I'll spend the extra $5-30
for the "better to best" on hers.

> One thing for certain. If a mechanic does a brake job for you, get very >
straight in advance on exactly what linings he intends to use. The last >
three times, I've walked into the mechanic's shop carrying my own > linings.
I've never regretted doing this. Even if you take advantage of > a major
chain's sale price on a brake job, it can pay to refuse their > package-deal
linings, handing the mechanic your own linings instead.

Expect him/her to be irritated though! In actual practice though this is a
damn good idea if you know what you need/want. Depending on the shop involved
it may be the cheapest they can get, mid-grade or offer to 'upgrade' for an
additional charge with a better warranty for the 'package prices(s). With the
unrealistic prices out there for services you're unlikely to find high-end
pads without substantial extra charges. (Of course always find out in advance
what the "deal" covers.. expect EVERYthing to be extra.)

Tim

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------------------------------

Date: 24 Jun 00 00:39:08 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: Brake Question]

"Robert Eberhardt" uswest.net> wrote:

> 20K
> is way too short for brakes unless you had very bad quality pads

Depending on conditions.. In general yes. *BUT*... I consider myself lucky to
get 15K on fronts due to my driving habits. I knew someone in the Virgin
Islands that said he was lucky to get 7K due to it's being nothing but up/down
& stop/go. OTOH I see fronts going over 50K for certain drivers.

Tim

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------------------------------

From: "Mark Biederbeck" email.msn.com>
Subject: Vacuum leak???
Date: Sun, 25 Jun 2000 19:58:15 -0700

I just had a strange set of occurrences on my 91 Ranger 4.0/4x4/automatic.
About 6 months ago, the cruise started to kick out fairly regularly, enough
to not even use it and the trans lock-up started kicking out under light
load. I referring to that last 300 rpm drop, which is not passing gear and
apparently not regular "drive" since it would still downshift when I took it
out of overdrive but had lost the 300 rpm drop. Sometimes the trans would
stay "locked-in" on a slight upgrade but not on a flat surface. The two
events started about the same time and quit about the same time (about 1
month ago). No other symptoms that I could notice. Anyone have a clue
here, vacuum leak? I'm lost. BTW, when the cruise kicked off, it
apparently didn't lose power as it would "resume" okay.

Mark Biederbeck



------------------------------

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