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Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 13:53:17 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #94
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------------------------------------
small-list Digest Wed, 21 Jun 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 094

In This Issue:
Re: [Explorer A/C] and A/C in general
Brake Shoes
Re: [A/C R134], ozone and patents.
Re: [Cooling an HP 302]
Re: Explorer tires; Passeger vs. Light Truck
Re: Explorer driveline clunk
Re: Brake Question
Re: Explorer tires; P vs. LT
Re: Brake Question
Re: Ranger Windshield Question
Re: Explorer driveline clunk
Re: Ranger Windshield Question
Re: Brake Question
ADMIN: Web site updates

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 21 Jun 00 21:08:27 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Explorer A/C] and A/C in general

"Gary Snook" home.com> wrote:
>
> Tim;
> RE: the leaky A/C on the 91 Explorer..... Well done! A very good
disertation on the how to's of auto A/C.
> Thanks again,
> Gary
>

Thanks for the kudos; I can't take all the credit though.. For a DIYer I
can't recommend aircondition.com highly enough. Before I dicovered FTE lots
of my time was spent there and there are some professionals on the BB that
will do anything you need to help your queries..

Tim


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------------------------------

From: "Richard Steinfeld" lmi.net>
Subject: Brake Shoes
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 15:04:48 -0700


Rick Blanchard wrote ------------------------------------------------------------------------

Any recommended shoes/pads? Someone said AutoZone carbon metallic were good
(as long as I load up on anti-squeak gel)..

My reply ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

I thought I'd jump in here as I just had the pads replaced on my Aerostar after attempting some research beforehand.

Let me preface my remarks by saying that I've almost been killed by inferior linings twice in my life, and take this subject very seriously.

First, you are always pretty safe by installing dealer linings: Ford doesn't want your heirs to sue them. I just gave my used Aerostar its first new brakes since I bought it two years ago. The stopping had been OK, except that there was occasional juddering, sometimes pretty violent, when coming down steep local grades. Guess what my old linings looked like? Three of the four pads had sections cracked and fallen off, past the end rivets. Junk linings, once again (Jeesh, where is the gov't when we need their protection about stuff like this?).

I felt ripped off by the dealer price of 72 bucks for the "kit" (Ford's definition of "kit" is four pads in a cardboard box, unlike Toyota, who charge less and throw in grease, springs, etc. I also paid an American $6 for a genuine Ford thermostat, bearing the the legend "Mexico." I ain't thrilled, guys.). The OEM pads (USA) look and feel excellent, stopping like a new Aerostar.

Why did I knowingly pay an outrageous price for them? Because I couldn't get anywhere when I tried to discuss models and quality with any of the local parts houses. You may want to look on the Web for all the information you can glean. Unfortunately, the only Bendix site is Australian. It does give a lot of recommendations for their models relative to exacting driving conditions. Raybestos is also slightly useful, especially if you send them email. I said that I drive on local mountain roads, and need to handle long freeway grades in hot weather (conditions under which lousy linings have melted on me in the past). They replied with a recommendation for their product line used for police cars.

What I learned overall was this: You can get harder linings that will wear longer, but may have awkward pedal modulation (brake feel). You can get linings that will stop shorter, but will wear out your disks sooner. It is mostly tradeoffs. Within a quality manufacturer's same model line, there will be manufacturing variations optimized for individual vehicles.

And quality is quality. The real problems for me were with the parts shops: "What kind of linings do you sell?" "We got carbon metallic." "Yeah, but who makes them." "We got Bendix" "What Bendix model?" "I dunno; the computer doesn't say. We sell a lot of them." Or, "We got Ultra Stop, Mega Stop, Turbo Stop, Alamo, and Sebring Grand Prix linings." This was compounded by conversations with a couple of the major chains who had major brand "house-number" models which I couldn't correlate with the mfr's model names. Finally, I gave up and simply let myself get ripped off at the dealer rather than put any more time into it. Having reasonable information from the manufacturer is one thing, getting the product you want from your local parts houses may be impossible.

One thing for certain. If a mechanic does a brake job for you, get very straight in advance on exactly what linings he intends to use. The last three times, I've walked into the mechanic's shop carrying my own linings. I've never regretted doing this. Even if you take advantage of a major chain's sale price on a brake job, it can pay to refuse their package-deal linings, handing the mechanic your own linings instead.

Let us know what you finally do, and how you made out.

Richard


------------------------------

Date: 21 Jun 00 21:49:08 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [A/C R134], ozone and patents.

thegman cfw.com wrote:
> Isn't it amazing what we have to put up with in order for DuPont to have
> a fresh patent for A/C gas? You see, the R12 patent was expiring when
> the heavier-than-air gas "freon" suddenly became a problem with the
> atmosphere. What a coincidence!

An intersting one I've heard before; no good answer I've found yet. Freon in
and of itself is as you say heavier than air but the individual chemical
components are not; as they decompose and reach the upper atmospehere they are
free to attack the ozone *without* being depleted in the process. (Or so the
teaching/propaganda says.)

> Question: Have you ever wondered how a heavier than air gas gets up
> there anyway?

Other questions:

1) Ozone hole in the upper atmosphere but yet we have "Ozone warnings" in the
populated cities for excess ground level Ozone.

2) Volcanoes emit destructive gasses as well and in high proportions to what
'man' has ever made. We're vain enough to think we can cause more destruction
than nature/God (your choice) can correct/plan/compensate for. In my duties
as a certified A/C person I'll follow the laws for my area but that does *NOT*
mean I agree with them.

Lest we forget R-134a is *NOT* environmetaly friendly; while it doesn't
directly attack the Ozone it *DOES* still contribute to global warming in
other ways hence the EPA ban on venting ALL referigerants to the atmosphere.
(R-134a is 'less' impacting than R-12; similar to the propylene glycol
anti-freeze products that say "non toxic".. Still a poision, but less so than
the product it replaces. (Okay.. I won't put arsenic in your drink, just some
BellaDonna.)

Yeah it's a crock.. I'm seeing 65-100 bucks a pound for R-12 this year and
the price changes daily. Having a HR-980 compressor on my B-II I'm stuck with
R-12 until I'm ready to fit a different compressor due to it's NOT being
compatabile with R-134a.

As a technician I do what I have to do; as a consumer I think it's BS.

Tim

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------------------------------

Date: 21 Jun 00 21:56:41 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Cooling an HP 302]

"Brian A" hotmail.com> wrote:

> long and short highway trips but idle in the driveway it stays on about 225

> degrees during a 90 plus day.


*IF* your radiator cap is OK and the coolant is around 50% anti-freeze/water
then the boiling point would be roughly 255.



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------------------------------

From: "Robert Eberhardt" uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Explorer tires; Passeger vs. Light Truck
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 19:59:06 -0700

P series tires are what came originally on your Explorer. Many places won't
mount an LT tire since their application book forbids it (thanks to Ford).
They will sell it and mount it on your rims, but they won't put it on your
Explorer. Costco is one place that will not mount them. I would recommend
about anyother tire than a Firestone tire mainly due to all the posts that
are showing up lately about them slipping belts and just blowing up
prematurely. I did just replace my Wilderness ATs with 54K miles on them for
Michelin LTX ATs. I kept wishing the Firestones would wear out sooner, but
they still had good tread on them when I got rid of them. I finally got
tired of the bad vibration that showed up around 40K. It got progressively
worse until I couldn't take it anymore. The Firestones left a lot to be
desired in the Arizona desert. I spun them constantly. I have only had the
Michelins out briefly, but they already seem to be much better than my
Firestones ever were. Recommendations: Michelin LTX (M/S or AT) or
BFGoodrich TA KO. At least 75% of what I see recommend any of these three, I
can personally recommend the LTX AT. You'll have to decide if you want a
more street oriented tire or one for going off-road. The LT tires have a
stiffer sidewall and carry a higher tow rating. The P series tires are
passenger car rated (yes the Explorer qualifies!).

Robert

> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: "Raymond C. Gray" telcordia.com>
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:44:31 -0400
> Subject: Explorer tires; Passeger vs. Light Truck
>
> Time to replace the Explorer tires...original equipment Firestone ATX with
64K.
> ('94 eddie bauer, 5 sp manual)
>
> Firestone no longer makes the ATX; the web site now recommends a
Wilderness
> model among others. Any advice on these Firestones vs. other brands?
>
> I've found the right size tire in both Passenger (P) and Light Truck (LT)
> models. I've found the UTQG ratings on passenger tires to be useful;
these
> codes are not provided for LT tires. Can I use P tires on my Explorer?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Ray
> ------------------------------



------------------------------

From: "Robert Eberhardt" uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Explorer driveline clunk
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:01:57 -0700

I checked my service guide over the weekend and found out that the
recommended lubrication interval for the slip yoke is every 6,000 mile in
the extreme duty schedule (that is the only one I'll follow). I guess it is
time to do it again before the clunk shows up again. The procedure is in my
Haynes manual but I haven't looked at it to see how difficult it is.

Robert

> ------------------------------
>
> From: "Strukel, Mike" westgroup.com>
> Subject: Re: Explorer driveline clunk
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:04:52 -0500
>
> Thanks for the info. That is exactly the clunk that is occuring on mine.
>
>
> Mike
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------



------------------------------

From: "Robert Eberhardt" uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Question
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:08:17 -0700

Check the easy things first before spending the money: 1) do you have enough
fluid? 2) is your parking brake light switch set to sensative? Pull your
wheels and look at your pads and shoes. See how much material is left. 20K
is way too short for brakes unless you had very bad quality pads and shoes
installed the last time. As your pads wear, your fluid will go down in the
reservoir.

Robert

> -----Original Message-----
> From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> [mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of C R Blanchard
> Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:08 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [small-list] Brake Question
>
>
>
> I think this has been discussed, but I could not find it in the archive...
>
> I got my 88 Ranger last March. The dealer did the brakes when I bought
it.
> I've put on about 20k miles since then. The last few days my brake light
> has been flashing intermittently. I was told it means the brakes need to
be
> done.
>
> Questions:
>
> Is 14 months/20k miles a standard length of time for brakes to wear? All
my
> other cars & my wife's car have gone 2+ years between brake jobs.
>
> How soon do I need to do them? Can it wait until the weekend?
>
> Should I do the front, back, or both. I had been told before that the
back
> usually only need done every other time you do the front. Any truth to
> this?
>
> Any recommended shoes/pads? Someone said AutoZone carbon metallic were
good
> (as long as I load up on anti-squeak gel).
>
> Thanks,
>
> Rick



------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" kendra.com>
Subject: Re: Explorer tires; P vs. LT
Date: Wed, 21 Jun 2000 20:41:29 -0700

From: "Raymond C. Gray" telcordia.com>
Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:44:31 -0400
Subject: Explorer tires; Passeger vs. Light Truck

> Any advice on these Firestones vs. other brands?

Depends on use, and also on what deals (and dealers) you can find in
your area.

I haven't owned the ATS 'Stones' personally, but have driven lots
of the OEM ATS equipped Explorer's in the fleet at work. Never saw
anything real bad *or* good about them. I personally like the ATX
better, but those are hard to find in 'smaller' sizes or in less
than C or "8-ply" ratings. The ATX is great on ice , good on
snowpack, good in loose rock, but fair to worse in deep mud

Take a look at Dunlop's "Rover" series. They have at least 3
different tread patterns, lots of sizes, and most are available in
both P and LT ratings.

I went with the "Touring" pattern because I realized that I need
pavement raingrip far more than looks.. but some personal tests have
proved them damned good on ice/snow/loose rocks/solid rock and mud
is "OK" but not great. No sand tries yet..

I went with the P 245/70-15 on my B II.. admitted that I'm running
'non-ford' rims (7.75" Mopar copcar wheels) . I wouldn't go past a
235 on the usual B II steel or crapmag(EB's) back then .Explorers go
wider wheels... probably OK , in fact Dunlop "lists" a 255 (never
seen) and a 265 (it does exist) if you have the optional 8" rims.


> Can I use P tires on my Explorer?

Sure! (I'm using my older Bronco II as somewhat of a model for your
Expy here-- )

Here's my opinion on the P versus LT: (at least on lighter vehicles)
(all statements are relative-- as in "usually" -- just when you
think you had it figgerd, somebody comes up with a reason that
conflicts with *your* opinion)

P: (usually 4-ply, but there are variations)
Better pavement handling.
Higher speed rating. ( Those I bought are "S" or 100MPH
continous--I'm a leadfoot)
Small gas mileage advantage.
Somewhat better pavement ride.
Usually available in smaller number sizes.
Also more apt to be available in wider aspect ratios.. /70 or
sometimes even /65.
More possibility for rock/stick punctures off-road.
Higher failure possibility if run at max load for extended periods.

LT:
Better handling under heavy loads and/or towing.
Somewhat more puncture resistant.
Can overheat at high speed.
Can be "let down" (severely *and* intentionally underinflated -- old
offroader's trick ) with less chance of beadseal breaking .
Higher load rating.


Like I said, these are "usuals" .
The LT vs P rating on the exact same size tire I bought was 2800 "P"
and 2850"LT" .. but the P got that at 35 PSI, the LT had to be
inflated to 50 PSI to meet those.

It all depends on what you want to do with your rig. I'd go with a
P tire unless I was :
regularily running a heavy load
regularily towing a heavy load
spending most of my time off road.
















------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 04:41:29 -0400
From: "William A. Hopkins" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Brake Question

What I noticed from your post is that you haven't yet had them
inspected. One cannot tell tell from the brake warning light
what is wrong, it may be wear, low fluid, or even a faulty
parking brake switch. You can inspect the brake pads and shoes
for wear yourself, or have it done, if you don't know how. The
brake warning light is a signal to check the brake system, not
necessarily a wear indicator.
Your '88's front discs do about 75-80% of the work required to
stop the truck (depending on load), so the front discs do indeed
wear out at a much greater rate than the rear shoes. Again, one
can't tell if they need replacement unless one inspects them for
wear. Depending on what type of material was used last and your
driving habits, 15-20K might be all one can get. It's hard to
put a direct 'mileage' figure on brake linings, If you're one who
'rides' the brake, you'll get much less usage out of the linings
than one who doesn't do a lot of stop'n'go.

> I got my 88 Ranger last March. The dealer did the brakes when I bought it.
> I've put on about 20k miles since then. The last few days my brake light
> has been flashing intermittently. I was told it means the brakes need to be
> done.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 04:48:24 -0400
From: "William A. Hopkins" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Ranger Windshield Question

It won't get better. Take it to a windshield specialist or a
body shop. They'll know if it can be repaired (doubtful from
your description) or if it'll be an insurance handled
replacement. Late model windshields are integral to proper air
bag functioning and front structure strength, so let the pros
handle it. They'll walk you through who you need to contact
about making a claim. It might cost you your deductible, but
replacement is stronger than crack repair. Most of the off the
shelf repair kits won't handle anything bigger than a 3/8" chip
that hasn't spider webbed.

> From: william.hickey bankofamerica.com
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 11:18:03 -0400
> Subject: Ranger Windshield Question

> Hello.
> I have a small pit and four cracks (like an X) about 1/2 inch across on my 99
> Ranger windshield.
> Do I need to be concerned about this ? Will it get worse if I take no action ?
> Thanks

------------------------------

From: "Strukel, Mike" westgroup.com>
Subject: Re: Explorer driveline clunk
Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 06:23:02 -0500

When you look at the instructions in the manual, can you post a summary of
what it takes.
I looked at my explorer and there is play in the slip yoke. I am sure that
is my problem.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Eberhardt [mailto:reberhardt uswest.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 21, 2000 10:02 PM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [small-list] Re: Explorer driveline clunk


I checked my service guide over the weekend and found out that the
recommended lubrication interval for the slip yoke is every 6,000 mile in
the extreme duty schedule (that is the only one I'll follow). I guess it is
time to do it again before the clunk shows up again. The procedure is in my
Haynes manual but I haven't looked at it to see how difficult it is.

Robert

> ------------------------------
>
> From: "Strukel, Mike" westgroup.com>
> Subject: Re: Explorer driveline clunk
> Date: Tue, 20 Jun 2000 06:04:52 -0500
>
> Thanks for the info. That is exactly the clunk that is occuring on mine.
>
>
> Mike
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 04:53:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bill Ciocco yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger Windshield Question

It has been my experience that when I have paid to have windshields replaced, the cost is
generally under $200 (call around, prices vary). For that cost, I would rather have it replaced
than repaired. I usually have had other pits or scratches and, of course, the new windshild took
care of those as well.

My $.02.

=====
~ .--~~,__
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`-,,, ,_ ;'~U'
_,-' ,'`-__; '--.
(_/'~~ ''''(;

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Jun 2000 08:20:17 -0400
From: Stephen Bozzone rockzone.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Question

Yes, be sure to check your parking brake sensor. Jiggle the pedal and
see if the light goes off.

I have the same problem. I've crawled under there to see what's up and
I see the little sensor job, but I'm having problems trying to fix it
without jerry rigging.

Regards,
Steve

Robert Eberhardt wrote:
>
> Check the easy things first before spending the money: 1) do you have enough
> fluid? 2) is your parking brake light switch set to sensative? Pull your
> wheels and look at your pads and shoes. See how much material is left. 20K
> is way too short for brakes unless you had very bad quality pads and shoes
> installed the last time. As your pads wear, your fluid will go down in the
> reservoir.
>
> Robert
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> > [mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of C R Blanchard
> > Sent: Monday, June 19, 2000 9:08 PM
> > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [small-list] Brake Question
> >
> >
> >
> > I think this has been discussed, but I could not find it in the archive...
> >
> > I got my 88 Ranger last March. The dealer did the brakes when I bought
> it.
> > I've put on about 20k miles since then. The last few days my brake light
> > has been flashing intermittently. I was told it means the brakes need to
> be
> > done.
> >
> > Questions:
> >
> > Is 14 months/20k miles a standard length of time for brakes to wear? All
> my
> > other cars & my wife's car have gone 2+ years between brake jobs.
> >
> > How soon do I need to do them? Can it wait until the weekend?
> >
> > Should I do the front, back, or both. I had been told before that the
> back
> > usually only need done every other time you do the front. Any truth to
> > this?
> >
> > Any recommended shoes/pads? Someone said AutoZone carbon metallic were
> good
> > (as long as I load up on anti-squeak gel).
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Rick
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the
> message.

--
Stephen Bozzone
Administrative Director - http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.rockzone.com
ICQ: 196843 / AIM: RudeSkam69
"Don't ask me to justify my life..." - Bad Religion

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jun 2000 14:44:11 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Web site updates

The following updates have been made to the Ford Truck
Enthusiasts web site (www.ford-trucks.com):

Pictorial updates (links to each picture on main site....


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