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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Fri, 18 Feb 2000 02:49:18 -0500 (EST) Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 02:49:18 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: small-list digest users Reply-to: small-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #9 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ small-list Digest Thu, 17 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 009 In This Issue: Re: [Re: Buzzing Sound] Re: Starter motor Re: Starter motor Re: ethnic slurs Re: ethnic slurs Leaving the business (Was Re: [Ford], service) Re: [Ranger rear-end] Re: ethnic slurs Re: ethnic slurs Re: [Ranger rear-end] 2 Simple Questions Re: Starter motor Re: 2 Simple Questions Re: parts press bearing race in T5 tranny Re: 2 Simple Questions Re: [Re: talkin about chips] Re: Ranger rear-end Re: Starter motor Re: ethnic slurs Re: ethnic slurs Re: ethnic slurs Re: ethnic slurs Blivets? Millboro, Va Jack - Re: 2 Simple Questions ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "mikah vosekuil" Subject: Re: [Re: Buzzing Sound] Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 22:27:44 PST >From: Tim Turner >Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com >To: small-list ford-trucks.com >Subject: [small-list] Re: [Re: Buzzing Sound] >Date: 16 Feb 00 23:22:35 EST > >OldTrux aol.com wrote: > > In a message dated 2/16/00 9:09:55 PM Central Standard Time, > > Blest25913 aol.com writes: > > > > > At $350 a > > > piece, I decided to go with manual hubs the second time the autos >went. > > > > That's what I had to pay too! I could not believe it...... > > >And yet people trash me for wanting manual hubs and a lever as OE.. go >figure. ;-) ME TOO!! I was giving my sisters boyfriend a ride the other day into town. He never was in my truck before. First he could not beleive i was driving a stick. THEN HE WANTED TO KNOW WHAT THE "SECOND SHIFTER" WAS FOR!!!!! He drives a blazer. He must have read an issue of motor trend and decided he was an expert on any type of vehicle. He told my the front axel on my truck was an "arcaic" design. I told him CV axels belong on cars, but he's the expert All this power/automatic CRAP is fine for the 'soccer mom' that >hits an ice patch on the way home but doesn't cut it for extended off road >work. (Was it here or the off road list that talked about the on/off again >characteristic of the AWD that might be worse than remaining in 2 or 4WD?) > >Sport= Small and handles curves or TIGHT trails well. >Utility=Handles varying loads and terrain (4x4?) > >SUV= Small to gigantic, might handle OK and is a popular term for anything >with an enclosed body and 'looks' 4x4 whether it is or not. Means Nada. Whats the deal with every company naming 4wd something else? Honda recently came out with "REALTIME 4WD" What the hell is that? Some type of all wheel drive is my guess. i recently worked on a honda crv with this feature and i can honestly say my murry lawn tractor has a bigger, stronger rear end in it! Leave all that All-Wheel Drive crap on those little rubberbandmobiles it was designed for! >SUV (def. 2) Any closed body truck-like vehicle that a maker can rush to >production with 4WD as an option now that the 'mini-van' craze has changed >to >'SUV's >the vehicles larger than the Explorer... Some of my trails scratch paint >on >a B-II so there's no Expedition going through that trail.. > >Haven't had a chance to play with the new small Ford offering (FWD Mazda >base?) but I suspect I'll like it for it's small size; I doubt I'll like >it's transfer arrangement though hopefully manual control and all will be >available. If there's no manual trans and hubs available then I certainly >wont be owning one. > Same here. Whats the deal with car companies not even offering a manual tranny on some of the most popular models? Not that i'd want one of those "soccor mom 4wd station wagons" anyway Tim > >____________________________________________________________________ >Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at >http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com. >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "mikah vosekuil" Subject: Re: Starter motor Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 22:39:08 PST check the voltage across the battery terminals when your cranking the motor. If you have a conventional starter( with the solenoid on the starter itself) the voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts. If you have a positve engagment starter the voltage should not drop below 10.0 volts. if it is then the problem could be the battery, the starter, exessive voltage drops on positve or ground side, or something mechanical binding. a few months ago i had a vehicle come in that cranked slow or "clicked" then nothing. the problem ended up being the electronic lockup on the torgue converter froze on, and the starter had to crank the motor and tranny. if the lights were bright, the battery was probably ok. it's possible the pull-in or hold-in winding in the solenoid is shorting out. >From: Mark Biederbeck >Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com >To: "'FORD'" >Subject: [small-list] Starter motor >Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:42:52 -0800 > >My starter in my 91 Ranger 4.0/auto quit today. The relay was "clicking", >the lights looked bright and I had a troubleshooting light to confirm juice >was getting to the other side of the relay. After an expensive tow home, >thank God for towing insurance, I decided to try my charger. After 15 >minutes...wollah!!!!, she starts! Can someone explain this? Is there a >certain voltage drop where these things just won't start? Should I replace >the starter before it fails? Any recommendations on remanufactured vs. new >starters? > >I expected that, if the battery was getting low on charge, the motor would >turn slowly. My manual at home indicated it still could be the battery >even if the relay "clicks" so it is "normal", I just can't explain it. > >Also, thanks to the guy (I lost the email address) who told me about how to >find the site to fix my electronic transfercase engagement motor, haven't >done the fix yet but it looks right on!!! > >Thanks, >Mark Biederbeck > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Travis Johnson" Subject: Re: Starter motor Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 00:24:08 MST Sounds like the same problem that I had a couple of times. Save your money on the starter for now. Try cleaning all the connections on the relay, or if it happens again try having someone hold the key in the start position while you move the battery and starter cable around on the relay post (don't ask why, but it worked for me). > >From: Mark Biederbeck >Subject: Starter motor >Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:42:52 -0800 > >My starter in my 91 Ranger 4.0/auto quit today. The relay was >"clicking", >the lights looked bright and I had a troubleshooting light to >confirm >juice >was getting to the other side of the relay. snip---------------- ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 06:59:21 -0500 From: Dwight & Tina Varnes Subject: Re: ethnic slurs Regarding the term "Jap"... I got caught on this one also. As a very post-WW II child, I grew up honestly thinking Jap was simply short for Japanese...maybe not the nicest way to say it, but didn't really connect it to being a slur. Well, I got blasted by a guy who is married to a Japanese woman who told me in no uncertain terms this was NOT the case. I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now. Dwight Varnes 90 4x2 2.3 'S' Bunch of other cars, most run ------------------------------ From: "Dennis Thompson" Subject: Re: ethnic slurs Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:50:58 -0600 I agree, we should let this and other racial slurs die instead of passing them down to our kids. ( besides, along with my beloved '84 Bronco II and '82 F250 I've got a '94 Nissan truck that says it was built in Tennesee ) SPECTRE ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 05:50:20 -0800 (PST) From: Bill Ciocco Subject: Leaving the business (Was Re: [Ford], service) I left the business 15 years ago, after ten years in it (1977-87) . I agree with almost everything you said. And the part about the image and pay improving has been a hope since I started. I was NIASE/ASE certified and had a hard time earning $200 a week on the flat rate . I worked on cars and heavy duty trucks. I still do all of my own work, for the reason you mentioned: I don't trust most of the guys I talk to. On the rare occasions I have had to have someone else do work for me I have been satisfied about half the time. I try not to be too critical/anal, but I hate it when "mechanics" leave out screws and bolts, just because they are hard to get at. If you (not all of you, but many)don't want to put them back, give them to me, I'll do it when I get some time - or, if you like, I'll take five minutes and put it back right in front of you, so that you can see how to do it. At least the ones that leave a couple of screws out are basically honest. I have worked with guys that oversell, slit hoses, replace good parts on purpose (because it pays), and lie to customers. Maybe that's why I only made $200 a week, I wasn willing to do those things. Those "mechanics" were being paid (not earning) $400 or more. I now do quite well, dress nice, and don't have tool bills. I hope you can understand why people get out. Bill ===== ~ .--~~,__ :-....,-------`~~'._.' `-,,, ,_ ;'~U' _,-' ,'`-__; '--. (_/'~~ ''''(; __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: "Tom Ewing" Subject: Re: [Ranger rear-end] Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 05:49:44 -0800 Regarding the limited slip Trak-Lok Diff 7.5", the 99 Motosport Catalog lists it as part #M-4204-C75 $253.95. You will need to get a price from the 2000 catalog for a current price, or you can go to a seller of these parts--SummitRacing(the catalog outfit) sells a lot of this stuff if you have the part number. You can phone Summit at 1-800-230-3030. Good Luck ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:17:22 -0500 From: David Cooley Subject: Re: ethnic slurs At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote: >I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't >really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from >my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now. And in all reality, they aren't asian in manufacture, as they are built here in the USA. Parts are imported but that's it. =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068 We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! =========================================================== ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:39:52 -0500 From: James Oxley Subject: Re: ethnic slurs David Cooley wrote: > > At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote: > > >I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't > >really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from > >my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now. > What is the abbreviation for Japanese? According to websters, it's Jap. You could always use japanesque, which is "of japanese style". I don't see the problem with using it unless you are using it in a derogatory context. OX ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:34:35 -0600 From: Karl Hock Subject: Re: [Ranger rear-end] >Tim Curran >> Quick question for the peanut gallery! >> >> Does anyone know if the '88 Ranger XLT 2.3's came equipted with a 7.5" >> rearend? > >I won't say it hasn't happened but as far as I know all Rangers and BIIs were >7.5s as original equipment. > Some 4L Rangers came with 8.8" rears. Although my Ford/Helm shop manual says all Rangers(at least '91s) have 7.5" rears, my '91 4L Ranger has a 8.8" rear(read from the tag on the diff). Karl ------------------------------ From: "Jack" Subject: 2 Simple Questions Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:59:08 -0600 I've been a member of this list for about 8 months now, and I've learned a lot about Ford trucks and their owners. About the time I joined the list I bought a 90 Ranger XLT, 2.3, 2wd. I love the truck, it was practically new, only about 50K miles. Lately I've noticed the fan belts making a lot of noise, I didn't just notice it I guess. It is pretty hard to ignore. After some looking I've decided the belts are in good shape, no cracking...but there is an unusual amount of oil everywhere, all over the engine and insulation on the hood. So my question: 1) I've decided that the oil is coming from the cap covering the spout for adding power steering fluid. Does this make sense? If so, what can/should I do? I'm really gettig tired of my fan belts racket, and I hope that it is the most I should be concerned about. 2) My second question isn't really related. I have added a set of fog lights. It didn't take long to figure out that I am a pro at forgetting to turn them off. I then got "smart" and rewired them to my headlights, so that when the headlights go off, so do the fog lights. My question: I really don't like the set up, and due to this and future plans...how could I find and wire a new fuse array to the "ACC" or ignition switch, so that it is ON/OFF with the ignition. Sorry it's kinda drags on, but I've been saving up asking for a while. Jack Hancock ucmeflyby email.com ------------------------------ Subject: Re: Starter motor Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:08:06 -0500 From: "Billy Moore" If it started after a battery charge, I doubt you have a starter problem. You have a charging problem. Try the cheap things first. Clean the battery terminals and tighten the alternator belt. If you're still having problems, I would suspect the alternator, maybe the battery. Take it to an AutoZone type place and they can test the battery and alternator for you. Don't go to AutoZone first. If your belt is loose, they may tell you that your alternator isn't charging and try to sell you one. Billy Moore -----Original Message----- From: Mark Biederbeck To: 'FORD' Date: Thursday, February 17, 2000 12:43 AM Subject: [small-list] Starter motor >My starter in my 91 Ranger 4.0/auto quit today. The relay was "clicking", >the lights looked bright and I had a troubleshooting light to confirm juice >was getting to the other side of the relay. After an expensive tow home, >thank God for towing insurance, I decided to try my charger. After 15 >minutes...wollah!!!!, she starts! Can someone explain this? Is there a >certain voltage drop where these things just won't start? Should I replace >the starter before it fails? Any recommendations on remanufactured vs. new >starters? > >I expected that, if the battery was getting low on charge, the motor would >turn slowly. My manual at home indicated it still could be the battery >even if the relay "clicks" so it is "normal", I just can't explain it. > >Also, thanks to the guy (I lost the email address) who told me about how to >find the site to fix my electronic transfercase engagement motor, haven't >done the fix yet but it looks right on!!! > >Thanks, >Mark Biederbeck > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the >message. > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 12:51:02 -0800 (PST) From: Mike Cagley Subject: Re: 2 Simple Questions jack -- i have 88 2.3, same problem -- i thought it was from the cap on the power steering pump. turned out i was part right -- the tabs on the pump cap had broken off somehow, so i replaced it. But the nut holding the overhead cam sprocket had also come loose, which resulted in the seal not working properly. oil was everywhere, and worse of all caught fire. even though the damage was minimal and managable, you may want to check both items out so you don't have to suffer my woes. mike --- Jack > I've been a member of this list for about 8 months > now, and I've learned a > lot about Ford trucks and their owners. About the > time I joined the list I > bought a 90 Ranger XLT, 2.3, 2wd. I love the truck, > it was practically new, > only about 50K miles. Lately I've noticed the fan > belts making a lot of > noise, I didn't just notice it I guess. It is > pretty hard to ignore. After > some looking I've decided the belts are in good > shape, no cracking...but > there is an unusual amount of oil everywhere, all > over the engine and > insulation on the hood. So my question: > > 1) I've decided that the oil is coming from the cap > covering the spout for > adding power steering fluid. Does this make sense? > If so, what can/should > I do? I'm really gettig tired of my fan belts > racket, and I hope that it is > the most I should be concerned about. > > 2) My second question isn't really related. I have > added a set of fog > lights. It didn't take long to figure out that I am > a pro at forgetting to > turn them off. I then got "smart" and rewired them > to my headlights, so > that when the headlights go off, so do the fog > lights. My question: I > really don't like the set up, and due to this and > future plans...how could I > find and wire a new fuse array to the "ACC" or > ignition switch, so that it > is ON/OFF with the ignition. > > Sorry it's kinda drags on, but I've been saving up > asking for a while. > > Jack Hancock > ucmeflyby email.com > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: > listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body > of the > message. > > __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com ------------------------------ From: "Joe Swinko" Subject: Re: parts Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:02:22 EST >I'm probably going to buy an '88(?) (it has aluminum tailgate cover and >older front end, there's no paperwork)ranger w/2.3L, 5spd, & 4x4 for parts. >My question is will the trannsmission match up to an '86 B-II w/ 2.9L & 4x4 I beleive that the trans are different,could be just the bellhousing, but if they are the same design they should work. >and is the high pressure fuel pump from the 4 cyl the same as the one for >the 6? I think the 2.3 is carburated, isn't it? If so, It won't work. The carb operates at around 8psi of fuel pressure and the F/I 2.9 operates at 40+/- psi. The pump would not give enough pressure for the F/I. >Also, I pulled off my LR tire and drum today to see what was rattling and >found out the park brake equalizer bar had somehow fallen out of place and >was riding on the drum. while I was looking at that I noticed that the >wheel >seal(?) is leaking, how hard is it to change? you have to pull the axle out and then replace the seal, which means taking the diff. apart. >I figure I will change the fluid in the diff while I have everything apart, >so I'm wondering what kind of fluid and additive is supposed to be put in >for the limited slip? Good Idea to change the fluid. The limited slip needs a special lubricant in order to operate properly. usually rear diffs take 80w-90 gear oil. The additive is now included all as one bottle I think, so read the back, it should say it meets the Ford requirements. >Last of all, I have heard that the limited slip came >with the STX package, is this true? Thanks for any advice. >Travis, >Flatheadv8 I too am a fan of the great Flatheads. Joe Swinko ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Tom Ewing" Subject: press bearing race in T5 tranny Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:11:58 -0800 Could someone possibly give me some directions? I'm rebuilding a T5 tranny out of a 88TBird for use in my 92Ranger. I'm reassembling the tranny and I'm at the part where I need to 'press' the bearing race into the tranny's case for the cluster gear assembly. Don't get hung up in the specifics, I just need some help with general guidlines for whenever one presses any bearing race into any tranny case. I've never done it before. The instructions I'm using for the rebuild, which are quite good, unfortunately refer me to another publication for some background on the particular matter. I don't have the other manual. A shop manual for 5.0L Mustangs, I would guess. Anyway the bearing race comes with a oring attached. Also the metal race is manufactured with a "lip" so to speak such that I suppose one presses the race into the tranny until the lip seats against the casing. And thus it would therefore be pushed in the correct distance. I've heard that I need to put the race into the freezer a couple hours and then red loctite it and press it into the case. That's all I know. But I've also been referred, as I mentined, to another publication for some type of general background regarding this. And I'm guessing it would have to do with the setup for pressing in the race. Something to avoid damage? Misalignment? I don't know what. Any help appreciated. Thanks Tom ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:54:43 -0500 From: David Cooley Subject: Re: 2 Simple Questions At 01:59 PM 2/17/00 -0600, you wrote: >1) I've decided that the oil is coming from the cap covering the spout for >adding power steering fluid. Does this make sense? If so, what can/should >I do? I'm really gettig tired of my fan belts racket, and I hope that it is >the most I should be concerned about. Could be there is a restriction in the Power Steering lines somewhere causing the fluid to overheat and expand, or could be over full and splashing the cap and running out the vent. >2) My second question isn't really related. I have added a set of fog >lights. It didn't take long to figure out that I am a pro at forgetting to >turn them off. I then got "smart" and rewired them to my headlights, so >that when the headlights go off, so do the fog lights. My question: I >really don't like the set up, and due to this and future plans...how could I >find and wire a new fuse array to the "ACC" or ignition switch, so that it >is ON/OFF with the ignition. If the Fog lights are wired with a relay, and the switch inside turns on the relay, then just run the hot wire that goes to the switch for activating the relay to one for accessory (radio etc). Relay draws very little on the coil to toggle it on or off (less than one amp). =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068 We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: "Mike Haight" Subject: Re: [Re: talkin about chips] Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:00:54 -0500 Here is a bit more on the Superchip, Inc. chip. The Superchip is designed to work with your factory thermostat, there is no need to change it. Doing so is a poor technique to use on the street, and a lot of other chipmakers do in fact require that you use an abnormally cold thermostat. That's a technique for the drag strip, not a street-driven vehicle, as it affects heater function (lots of complaints about that) but more importantly, over time it promotes combustion chamber deposits. So they do not recommend that you use a thermostat colder than 180 degrees, if you change it at all. The factory units are usually in the 190-194 degree range, and you should just stick with it. With regards to installation, you should just install them yourself, over 99% of customers do just that. Each Superchip comes with installation instructions, as well as a Lifetime guarantee and toll-free Tech Support. Installation time for somebody who has never done one of these before runs about 25-30 minutes from start to finish for each vehicle. And once you've done one, you can do the next one in half the time. With regards to gas mileage improvements, they do not make any guarantees of increased mileage, as that will depend on too many factors beyond their control. However, most people do see an improvement, and it's just a by-product of the part-throttle tuning. They generally see 1.5-2.0 more mpg when cruising on the highway, and not using any heavy throttle. Your results will depend on how you operate the vehicle, and your local fuel quality, in terms of it's actual energy content, measured in BTU's per lb. of fuel. As I said before I know a few folks that have it and are seeing results and more important are happy about their purchase/use of the chip. I plan to get one for my 97 T-bird 4.6L and one for my 92 Ranger 2.9L. Happy Hunting! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tim Turner" To: Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 10:29 PM Subject: [small-list] Re: [Re: talkin about chips] > Jean Marc Chartier > > "Steinbrook, Steve" wrote: > > > > > > I do not know that much about these computer chips but I understand what > > > they can do for an automatic transmission in controlling when the gears > > > change. > > In an ELECTRONIC transmission only. As a general thing is there an 'OD' > button in your automatic? If not then forget it. > > > > What do these chips do for a manual? > > Obviously nothing for shift points ;-) > > > Is it worth getting a chip > > > for a manual transmission truck? Is it the fuel/air mixture that it > > > changes? What else? > > > > Steve, > > > > My truck is a manual. The chip doesn't do anything for > > a manual tranny. What the chip does is increase the HP and > > torque of the motor. It is usually done by changing the > > timing and the air/fuel ratio. > > As Steve states all 'chips' use a different 'curve' for timing and A/F ratio > and *may* delete speed/rev limiters.. with A/T's there may be changes in the > shifting as well. It'd be interesting to see the performance difference with > both A/T & M/T published somewhere but I haven't seen it. Of course > 'repeatability' is better with the A/T for measuring purposes so there might > be some bias there. Actual Dyno figures without a transmission willl tell the > tale though. I prefer to shift my own gears as well. :-) > > Tim > > ____________________________________________________________________ > Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com. > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. > > ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: Ranger rear-end Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:34:05 CST I'm looking for a traction-lok assy and the only resource that >I have that I found a 7.5" Traction-Lok in was a 1992 SVO catalog for >$190.00...... > Tim, Hope you can find a used one. The 1999 SVO catalog lists PN M-4204-C75 (28T) for the 7.5 rear end $ 253.95!! ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: Starter motor Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:52:18 CST Travis, Don't know where you live (climate), but here near the coast we have a great deal of problems with corrosion of the cables and terminals. Not just around the battery terminals and relays, but INSIDE the cables. I have had 2 cable ends come off in my hand when I tried to clean the posts. (By the way, one of the vehicles (non-Ford) had been to 2 different dealerships on 3 different occasions without anyone discovering the source of the "intermittant electrical failure") If you can find ANY signs of corrosion where the cable ends connect, or if there are cracks in the insulation of the battery cables, try replacing them, preferably with a larger wire. I went to #0 welding cable; no more problems! >>you move the battery and starter cable around on the relay post >(don't ask >why, but it worked for me). > >> ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "William Hickey" Subject: Re: ethnic slurs Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 16:53:06 PST Maybe some of them are assembled here but there are still an awful lot of them being unloaded from ships in American ports. Bill >From: David Cooley >Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com >To: small-list ford-trucks.com >Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs >Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:17:22 -0500 > >At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote: > > >>I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't >>really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from >>my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now. > > >And in all reality, they aren't asian in manufacture, as they are built >here in the USA. Parts are imported but that's it. > > >=========================================================== >David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net >Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068 >We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! >=========================================================== > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "mjb1962" Subject: Re: ethnic slurs Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:42:55 -0500 THE PARTS NEED TO BE MANUFACTURED HERE AND THE ENGINEERING NEEDS TO BE DONE HERE TOO. TIRED IF LOSING MY JOB TO AN OVERSEAS FOREIGN COMPANY THAT SELLS TO AMERICANS! WAKE UP AMERICA! I TRY TO BUY AMERICAN IF IT IS POSSIBLE. ----- Original Message ----- From: "William Hickey" To: Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:53 PM Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs > Maybe some of them are assembled here but there are still an awful lot of > them being unloaded from ships in American ports. > Bill > > > >From: David Cooley > >Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com > >To: small-list ford-trucks.com > >Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs > >Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:17:22 -0500 > > > >At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote: > > > > > >>I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't > >>really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from > >>my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now. > > > > > >And in all reality, they aren't asian in manufacture, as they are built > >here in the USA. Parts are imported but that's it. > > > > > >=========================================================== > >David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net > >Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068 > >We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! > >=========================================================== > > > >========================================================== > >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > >message. > > > > ______________________________________________________ > > > ========================================================== > To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with > the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the > message. > > ------------------------------ From: GJFB20 aol.com Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:45:03 EST Subject: Re: ethnic slurs Hey, Who gives a crap about ethnic slurs, what does that have to do with ford trucks ------------------------------ From: "Dennis Thompson" Subject: Re: ethnic slurs Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:00:26 -0600 ----- Original Message ----- From: mjb1962 To: Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:42 PM Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs > THE PARTS NEED TO BE MANUFACTURED HERE AND THE ENGINEERING NEEDS TO BE DONE > HERE TOO. TIRED IF LOSING MY JOB TO AN OVERSEAS FOREIGN COMPANY THAT SELLS > TO AMERICANS! WAKE UP AMERICA! > I TRY TO BUY AMERICAN IF IT IS POSSIBLE. You can't buy American - many parts for "American" vehicles are manufactured in mexico and canada ( and probably elswhere ) as well as many being built or assembled in these two countries. I've owned American makes built in canada. The ultra-rich auto execs will send as much work out of the country as possible to line their pockets, they are the enemy! SPECTRE ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:30:01 -0500 From: Paul Subject: Blivets? .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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