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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Fri, 18 Feb 2000 02:49:18 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2000 02:49:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #9
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
small-list Digest Thu, 17 Feb 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 009

In This Issue:
Re: [Re: Buzzing Sound]
Re: Starter motor
Re: Starter motor
Re: ethnic slurs
Re: ethnic slurs
Leaving the business (Was Re: [Ford], service)
Re: [Ranger rear-end]
Re: ethnic slurs
Re: ethnic slurs
Re: [Ranger rear-end]
2 Simple Questions
Re: Starter motor
Re: 2 Simple Questions
Re: parts
press bearing race in T5 tranny
Re: 2 Simple Questions
Re: [Re: talkin about chips]
Re: Ranger rear-end
Re: Starter motor
Re: ethnic slurs
Re: ethnic slurs
Re: ethnic slurs
Re: ethnic slurs
Blivets?
Millboro, Va
Jack - Re: 2 Simple Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "mikah vosekuil" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: Buzzing Sound]
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 22:27:44 PST




>From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [small-list] Re: [Re: Buzzing Sound]
>Date: 16 Feb 00 23:22:35 EST
>
>OldTrux aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 2/16/00 9:09:55 PM Central Standard Time,
> > Blest25913 aol.com writes:
> >
> > > At $350 a
> > > piece, I decided to go with manual hubs the second time the autos
>went.
> >
> > That's what I had to pay too! I could not believe it......
>
>
>And yet people trash me for wanting manual hubs and a lever as OE.. go
>figure. ;-)

ME TOO!! I was giving my sisters boyfriend a ride the other day into town.
He never was in my truck before. First he could not beleive i was driving a
stick. THEN HE WANTED TO KNOW WHAT THE "SECOND SHIFTER" WAS FOR!!!!! He
drives a blazer. He must have read an issue of motor trend and decided he
was an expert on any type of vehicle. He told my the front axel on my truck
was an "arcaic" design. I told him CV axels belong on cars, but he's the
expert



All this power/automatic CRAP is fine for the 'soccer mom' that
>hits an ice patch on the way home but doesn't cut it for extended off road
>work. (Was it here or the off road list that talked about the on/off again
>characteristic of the AWD that might be worse than remaining in 2 or 4WD?)
>
>Sport= Small and handles curves or TIGHT trails well.
>Utility=Handles varying loads and terrain (4x4?)
>
>SUV= Small to gigantic, might handle OK and is a popular term for anything
>with an enclosed body and 'looks' 4x4 whether it is or not. Means Nada.

Whats the deal with every company naming 4wd something else? Honda
recently came out with "REALTIME 4WD" What the hell is that? Some type of
all wheel drive is my guess. i recently worked on a honda crv with this
feature and i can honestly say my murry lawn tractor has a bigger, stronger
rear end in it! Leave all that All-Wheel Drive crap on those little
rubberbandmobiles it was designed for!

>SUV (def. 2) Any closed body truck-like vehicle that a maker can rush to
>production with 4WD as an option now that the 'mini-van' craze has changed
>to
>'SUV's . I like 'em but I see no S in
>the vehicles larger than the Explorer... Some of my trails scratch paint
>on
>a B-II so there's no Expedition going through that trail..
>
>Haven't had a chance to play with the new small Ford offering (FWD Mazda
>base?) but I suspect I'll like it for it's small size; I doubt I'll like
>it's transfer arrangement though hopefully manual control and all will be
>available. If there's no manual trans and hubs available then I certainly
>wont be owning one.
>
Same here. Whats the deal with car companies not even offering a manual
tranny on some of the most popular models? Not that i'd want one of those
"soccor mom 4wd station wagons" anyway
Tim
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com.
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "mikah vosekuil" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starter motor
Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 22:39:08 PST

check the voltage across the battery terminals when your cranking the motor.
If you have a conventional starter( with the solenoid on the starter
itself) the voltage should not drop below 9.6 volts. If you have a positve
engagment starter the voltage should not drop below 10.0 volts. if it is
then the problem could be the battery, the starter, exessive voltage drops
on positve or ground side, or something mechanical binding. a few months
ago i had a vehicle come in that cranked slow or "clicked" then nothing.
the problem ended up being the electronic lockup on the torgue converter
froze on, and the starter had to crank the motor and tranny. if the lights
were bright, the battery was probably ok. it's possible the pull-in or
hold-in winding in the solenoid is shorting out.


>From: Mark Biederbeck email.msn.com>
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: "'FORD'" ford-trucks.com>
>Subject: [small-list] Starter motor
>Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:42:52 -0800
>
>My starter in my 91 Ranger 4.0/auto quit today. The relay was "clicking",
>the lights looked bright and I had a troubleshooting light to confirm juice
>was getting to the other side of the relay. After an expensive tow home,
>thank God for towing insurance, I decided to try my charger. After 15
>minutes...wollah!!!!, she starts! Can someone explain this? Is there a
>certain voltage drop where these things just won't start? Should I replace
>the starter before it fails? Any recommendations on remanufactured vs. new
>starters?
>
>I expected that, if the battery was getting low on charge, the motor would
>turn slowly. My manual at home indicated it still could be the battery
>even if the relay "clicks" so it is "normal", I just can't explain it.
>
>Also, thanks to the guy (I lost the email address) who told me about how to
>find the site to fix my electronic transfercase engagement motor, haven't
>done the fix yet but it looks right on!!!
>
>Thanks,
>Mark Biederbeck
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Travis Johnson" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starter motor
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 00:24:08 MST

Sounds like the same problem that I had a couple of times. Save your money
on the starter for now. Try cleaning all the connections on the relay, or if
it happens again try having someone hold the key in the start position while
you move the battery and starter cable around on the relay post (don't ask
why, but it worked for me).

>
>From: Mark Biederbeck email.msn.com>
>Subject: Starter motor
>Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2000 21:42:52 -0800
>
>My starter in my 91 Ranger 4.0/auto quit today. The relay was >"clicking",
>the lights looked bright and I had a troubleshooting light to >confirm
>juice
>was getting to the other side of the relay.
snip----------------

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 06:59:21 -0500
From: Dwight & Tina Varnes lancnews.infi.net>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs

Regarding the term "Jap"...

I got caught on this one also. As a very post-WW II child, I grew up
honestly thinking Jap was simply short for Japanese...maybe not the
nicest way to say it, but didn't really connect it to being a slur.

Well, I got blasted by a guy who is married to a Japanese woman who told
me in no uncertain terms this was NOT the case.

I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't
really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from
my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now.

Dwight Varnes
90 4x2 2.3 'S'
Bunch of other cars, most run

------------------------------

From: "Dennis Thompson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 07:50:58 -0600

I agree, we should let this and other racial slurs die instead of passing
them down to our kids.
( besides, along with my beloved '84 Bronco II and '82 F250 I've got a '94
Nissan truck that says it was built in Tennesee )

SPECTRE


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 05:50:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ciocco yahoo.com>
Subject: Leaving the business (Was Re: [Ford], service)

I left the business 15 years ago, after ten years in it (1977-87) . I agree with almost everything
you said. And the part about the image and pay improving has been a hope since I started. I was
NIASE/ASE certified and had a hard time earning $200 a week on the flat rate . I worked on cars
and heavy duty trucks.

I still do all of my own work, for the reason you mentioned: I don't trust most of the guys I talk
to. On the rare occasions I have had to have someone else do work for me I have been satisfied
about half the time. I try not to be too critical/anal, but I hate it when "mechanics" leave out
screws and bolts, just because they are hard to get at. If you (not all of you, but many)don't
want to put them back, give them to me, I'll do it when I get some time - or, if you like, I'll
take five minutes and put it back right in front of you, so that you can see how to do it.

At least the ones that leave a couple of screws out are basically honest. I have worked with guys
that oversell, slit hoses, replace good parts on purpose (because it pays), and lie to customers.
Maybe that's why I only made $200 a week, I wasn willing to do those things. Those "mechanics"
were being paid (not earning) $400 or more.

I now do quite well, dress nice, and don't have tool bills. I hope you can understand why people
get out.

Bill

=====
~ .--~~,__
:-....,-------`~~'._.'
`-,,, ,_ ;'~U'
_,-' ,'`-__; '--.
(_/'~~ ''''(;
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Tom Ewing" napanet.net>
Subject: Re: [Ranger rear-end]
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 05:49:44 -0800

Regarding the limited slip Trak-Lok Diff 7.5", the 99 Motosport Catalog
lists it as part #M-4204-C75 $253.95. You will need to get a price from the
2000 catalog for a current price, or you can go to a seller of these
parts--SummitRacing(the catalog outfit) sells a lot of this stuff if you
have the part number. You can phone Summit at 1-800-230-3030.
Good Luck


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:17:22 -0500
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs

At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote:


>I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't
>really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from
>my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now.


And in all reality, they aren't asian in manufacture, as they are built
here in the USA. Parts are imported but that's it.


===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:39:52 -0500
From: James Oxley thecore.com>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs

David Cooley wrote:
>
> At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote:
>
> >I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't
> >really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from
> >my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now.
>

What is the abbreviation for Japanese? According to websters, it's Jap.
You could always use japanesque, which is "of japanese style". I don't
see the problem with using it unless you are using it in a derogatory
context.

OX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:34:35 -0600
From: Karl Hock pathbox.wustl.edu>
Subject: Re: [Ranger rear-end]

>Tim Curran gte.net> wrote:
>> Quick question for the peanut gallery!
>>
>> Does anyone know if the '88 Ranger XLT 2.3's came equipted with a 7.5"
>> rearend?
>
>I won't say it hasn't happened but as far as I know all Rangers and BIIs were
>7.5s as original equipment.
>

Some 4L Rangers came with 8.8" rears. Although my Ford/Helm shop manual
says all Rangers(at least '91s) have 7.5" rears, my '91 4L Ranger has a
8.8" rear(read from the tag on the diff).

Karl



------------------------------

From: "Jack" email.com>
Subject: 2 Simple Questions
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 13:59:08 -0600

I've been a member of this list for about 8 months now, and I've learned a
lot about Ford trucks and their owners. About the time I joined the list I
bought a 90 Ranger XLT, 2.3, 2wd. I love the truck, it was practically new,
only about 50K miles. Lately I've noticed the fan belts making a lot of
noise, I didn't just notice it I guess. It is pretty hard to ignore. After
some looking I've decided the belts are in good shape, no cracking...but
there is an unusual amount of oil everywhere, all over the engine and
insulation on the hood. So my question:

1) I've decided that the oil is coming from the cap covering the spout for
adding power steering fluid. Does this make sense? If so, what can/should
I do? I'm really gettig tired of my fan belts racket, and I hope that it is
the most I should be concerned about.

2) My second question isn't really related. I have added a set of fog
lights. It didn't take long to figure out that I am a pro at forgetting to
turn them off. I then got "smart" and rewired them to my headlights, so
that when the headlights go off, so do the fog lights. My question: I
really don't like the set up, and due to this and future plans...how could I
find and wire a new fuse array to the "ACC" or ignition switch, so that it
is ON/OFF with the ignition.

Sorry it's kinda drags on, but I've been saving up asking for a while.

Jack Hancock
ucmeflyby email.com


------------------------------

Subject: Re: Starter motor
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 15:08:06 -0500
From: "Billy Moore" mindspring.com>

If it started after a battery charge, I doubt you have a starter problem.
You have a charging problem. Try the cheap things first. Clean the battery
terminals and tighten the alternator belt. If you're still having problems,
I would suspect the alternator, maybe the battery. Take it to an AutoZone
type place and they can test the battery and alternator for you. Don't go
to AutoZone first. If your belt is loose, they may tell you that your
alternator isn't charging and try to sell you one.

Billy Moore

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark Biederbeck email.msn.com>
To: 'FORD' ford-trucks.com>
Date: Thursday, February 17, 2000 12:43 AM
Subject: [small-list] Starter motor


>My starter in my 91 Ranger 4.0/auto quit today. The relay was "clicking",
>the lights looked bright and I had a troubleshooting light to confirm juice
>was getting to the other side of the relay. After an expensive tow home,
>thank God for towing insurance, I decided to try my charger. After 15
>minutes...wollah!!!!, she starts! Can someone explain this? Is there a
>certain voltage drop where these things just won't start? Should I replace
>the starter before it fails? Any recommendations on remanufactured vs. new
>starters?
>
>I expected that, if the battery was getting low on charge, the motor would
>turn slowly. My manual at home indicated it still could be the battery
>even if the relay "clicks" so it is "normal", I just can't explain it.
>
>Also, thanks to the guy (I lost the email address) who told me about how to
>find the site to fix my electronic transfercase engagement motor, haven't
>done the fix yet but it looks right on!!!
>
>Thanks,
>Mark Biederbeck
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 12:51:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Mike Cagley yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 2 Simple Questions

jack --

i have 88 2.3, same problem -- i thought it was from
the cap on the power steering pump. turned out i was
part right -- the tabs on the pump cap had broken off
somehow, so i replaced it. But the nut holding the
overhead cam sprocket had also come loose, which
resulted in the seal not working properly. oil was
everywhere, and worse of all caught fire. even though
the damage was minimal and managable, you may want to
check both items out so you don't have to suffer my
woes.

mike

--- Jack email.com> wrote:
> I've been a member of this list for about 8 months
> now, and I've learned a
> lot about Ford trucks and their owners. About the
> time I joined the list I
> bought a 90 Ranger XLT, 2.3, 2wd. I love the truck,
> it was practically new,
> only about 50K miles. Lately I've noticed the fan
> belts making a lot of
> noise, I didn't just notice it I guess. It is
> pretty hard to ignore. After
> some looking I've decided the belts are in good
> shape, no cracking...but
> there is an unusual amount of oil everywhere, all
> over the engine and
> insulation on the hood. So my question:
>
> 1) I've decided that the oil is coming from the cap
> covering the spout for
> adding power steering fluid. Does this make sense?
> If so, what can/should
> I do? I'm really gettig tired of my fan belts
> racket, and I hope that it is
> the most I should be concerned about.
>
> 2) My second question isn't really related. I have
> added a set of fog
> lights. It didn't take long to figure out that I am
> a pro at forgetting to
> turn them off. I then got "smart" and rewired them
> to my headlights, so
> that when the headlights go off, so do the fog
> lights. My question: I
> really don't like the set up, and due to this and
> future plans...how could I
> find and wire a new fuse array to the "ACC" or
> ignition switch, so that it
> is ON/OFF with the ignition.
>
> Sorry it's kinda drags on, but I've been saving up
> asking for a while.
>
> Jack Hancock
> ucmeflyby email.com
>
>
==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to:
> listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body
> of the
> message.
>
>
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://im.yahoo.com

------------------------------

From: "Joe Swinko" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: parts
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 17:02:22 EST


>I'm probably going to buy an '88(?) (it has aluminum tailgate cover and
>older front end, there's no paperwork)ranger w/2.3L, 5spd, & 4x4 for parts.
>My question is will the trannsmission match up to an '86 B-II w/ 2.9L & 4x4

I beleive that the trans are different,could be just the bellhousing, but
if they are the same design they should work.

>and is the high pressure fuel pump from the 4 cyl the same as the one for
>the 6?

I think the 2.3 is carburated, isn't it? If so, It won't work. The carb
operates at around 8psi of fuel pressure and the F/I 2.9 operates at 40+/-
psi. The pump would not give enough pressure for the F/I.

>Also, I pulled off my LR tire and drum today to see what was rattling and
>found out the park brake equalizer bar had somehow fallen out of place and
>was riding on the drum. while I was looking at that I noticed that the
>wheel
>seal(?) is leaking, how hard is it to change?

you have to pull the axle out and then replace the seal, which means taking
the diff. apart.

>I figure I will change the fluid in the diff while I have everything apart,
>so I'm wondering what kind of fluid and additive is supposed to be put in
>for the limited slip?

Good Idea to change the fluid. The limited slip needs a special lubricant in
order to operate properly. usually rear diffs take 80w-90 gear oil. The
additive is now included all as one bottle I think, so read the back, it
should say it meets the Ford requirements.

>Last of all, I have heard that the limited slip came
>with the STX package, is this true? Thanks for any advice.

>Travis,
>Flatheadv8
I too am a fan of the great Flatheads.


Joe Swinko

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Tom Ewing" napanet.net>
Subject: press bearing race in T5 tranny
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 14:11:58 -0800


Could someone possibly give me some directions? I'm rebuilding a T5 tranny out of a 88TBird for use in my 92Ranger. I'm reassembling the tranny and I'm at the part where I need to 'press' the bearing race into the tranny's case for the cluster gear assembly. Don't get hung up in the specifics, I just need some help with general guidlines for whenever one presses any bearing race into any tranny case. I've never done it before. The instructions I'm using for the rebuild, which are quite good, unfortunately refer me to another publication for some background on the particular matter. I don't have the other manual. A shop manual for 5.0L Mustangs, I would guess. Anyway the bearing race comes with a oring attached. Also the metal race is manufactured with a "lip" so to speak such that I suppose one presses the race into the tranny until the lip seats against the casing. And thus it would therefore be pushed in the correct distance. I've heard that I need to put the race into the freezer a couple hours and then red loctite it and press it into the case. That's all I know. But I've also been referred, as I mentined, to another publication for some type of general background regarding this. And I'm guessing it would have to do with the setup for pressing in the race. Something to avoid damage? Misalignment? I don't know what. Any help appreciated.
Thanks Tom


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:54:43 -0500
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Simple Questions

At 01:59 PM 2/17/00 -0600, you wrote:


>1) I've decided that the oil is coming from the cap covering the spout for
>adding power steering fluid. Does this make sense? If so, what can/should
>I do? I'm really gettig tired of my fan belts racket, and I hope that it is
>the most I should be concerned about.


Could be there is a restriction in the Power Steering lines somewhere
causing the fluid to overheat and expand, or could be over full and
splashing the cap and running out the vent.


>2) My second question isn't really related. I have added a set of fog
>lights. It didn't take long to figure out that I am a pro at forgetting to
>turn them off. I then got "smart" and rewired them to my headlights, so
>that when the headlights go off, so do the fog lights. My question: I
>really don't like the set up, and due to this and future plans...how could I
>find and wire a new fuse array to the "ACC" or ignition switch, so that it
>is ON/OFF with the ignition.

If the Fog lights are wired with a relay, and the switch inside turns on
the relay, then just run the hot wire that goes to the switch for
activating the relay to one for accessory (radio etc). Relay draws very
little on the coil to toggle it on or off (less than one amp).

===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

From: "Mike Haight" home.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: talkin about chips]
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:00:54 -0500

Here is a bit more on the Superchip, Inc. chip.

The Superchip is designed to work with your factory thermostat, there
is no
need to change it. Doing so is a poor technique to use on the street,
and a lot
of other chipmakers do in fact require that you use an abnormally cold
thermostat. That's a technique for the drag strip, not a street-driven
vehicle, as it affects heater function (lots of complaints about that)
but more importantly, over time it promotes combustion chamber
deposits. So they do not recommend that you use a thermostat colder
than 180
degrees, if you change it at all. The factory units are usually in the
190-194 degree range, and you should just stick with it.

With regards to installation, you should just install them yourself,
over
99% of customers do just that. Each Superchip comes with installation
instructions, as well as a Lifetime guarantee and toll-free Tech
Support.
Installation time for somebody who has never done one of these before
runs about 25-30 minutes from start to finish for each vehicle. And
once
you've done one, you can do the next one in half the time.

With regards to gas mileage improvements, they do not make any
guarantees of
increased mileage, as that will depend on too many factors beyond
their
control. However, most people do see an improvement, and it's just a
by-product of the part-throttle tuning. They generally see 1.5-2.0
more mpg
when cruising on the highway, and not using any heavy throttle. Your
results will depend on how you operate the vehicle, and your local
fuel
quality, in terms of it's actual energy content, measured in BTU's per
lb.
of fuel.

As I said before I know a few folks that have it and are seeing
results and
more important are happy about their purchase/use of the chip. I plan
to get
one for my 97 T-bird 4.6L and one for my 92 Ranger 2.9L.

Happy Hunting!


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim Turner" netscape.net>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2000 10:29 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: [Re: talkin about chips]


> Jean Marc Chartier sympatico.ca> wrote:
> > "Steinbrook, Steve" wrote:
> > >
> > > I do not know that much about these computer chips but I
understand what
> > > they can do for an automatic transmission in controlling when
the gears
> > > change.
>
> In an ELECTRONIC transmission only. As a general thing is there an
'OD'
> button in your automatic? If not then forget it.
>
>
> > What do these chips do for a manual?
>
> Obviously nothing for shift points ;-)
>
> > Is it worth getting a chip
> > > for a manual transmission truck? Is it the fuel/air mixture
that it
> > > changes? What else?
> >
> > Steve,
> >
> > My truck is a manual. The chip doesn't do anything for
> > a manual tranny. What the chip does is increase the HP and
> > torque of the motor. It is usually done by changing the
> > timing and the air/fuel ratio.
>
> As Steve states all 'chips' use a different 'curve' for timing and
A/F ratio
> and *may* delete speed/rev limiters.. with A/T's there may be
changes in the
> shifting as well. It'd be interesting to see the performance
difference with
> both A/T & M/T published somewhere but I haven't seen it. Of course
> 'repeatability' is better with the A/T for measuring purposes so
there might
> be some bias there. Actual Dyno figures without a transmission
willl tell the
> tale though. I prefer to shift my own gears as well. :-)
>
> Tim
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>


------------------------------

From: "James Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger rear-end
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:34:05 CST




I'm looking for a traction-lok assy and the only resource that
>I have that I found a 7.5" Traction-Lok in was a 1992 SVO catalog for
>$190.00......
>
Tim,
Hope you can find a used one. The 1999 SVO catalog lists
PN M-4204-C75 (28T) for the 7.5 rear end $ 253.95!!
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "James Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Starter motor
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:52:18 CST

Travis,

Don't know where you live (climate), but here near the coast we have a
great deal of problems with corrosion of the cables and terminals. Not just
around the battery terminals and relays, but INSIDE the cables. I have had
2 cable ends come off in my hand when I tried to clean the posts. (By the
way, one of the vehicles (non-Ford) had been to 2 different dealerships on 3
different occasions without anyone discovering the source of the
"intermittant electrical failure") If you can find ANY signs of corrosion
where the cable ends connect, or if there are cracks in the insulation of
the battery cables, try replacing them, preferably with a larger wire. I
went to #0 welding cable; no more problems!


>>you move the battery and starter cable around on the relay post
>(don't ask
>why, but it worked for me).
>
>>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "William Hickey" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 16:53:06 PST

Maybe some of them are assembled here but there are still an awful lot of
them being unloaded from ships in American ports.
Bill


>From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs
>Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:17:22 -0500
>
>At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>>I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't
>>really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from
>>my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now.
>
>
>And in all reality, they aren't asian in manufacture, as they are built
>here in the USA. Parts are imported but that's it.
>
>
>===========================================================
>David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
>Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
>We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
>===========================================================
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "mjb1962" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:42:55 -0500

THE PARTS NEED TO BE MANUFACTURED HERE AND THE ENGINEERING NEEDS TO BE DONE
HERE TOO. TIRED IF LOSING MY JOB TO AN OVERSEAS FOREIGN COMPANY THAT SELLS
TO AMERICANS! WAKE UP AMERICA!
I TRY TO BUY AMERICAN IF IT IS POSSIBLE.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Hickey" hotmail.com>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:53 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs


> Maybe some of them are assembled here but there are still an awful lot of
> them being unloaded from ships in American ports.
> Bill
>
>
> >From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
> >Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> >To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> >Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs
> >Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 10:17:22 -0500
> >
> >At 06:59 AM 2/17/00 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >
> >>I think a lot of us yung-uns simply don't know any better, and don't
> >>really mean anything by using the term, but I have since removed it from
> >>my vocabulary. I just call them Asian cars now.
> >
> >
> >And in all reality, they aren't asian in manufacture, as they are built
> >here in the USA. Parts are imported but that's it.
> >
> >
> >===========================================================
> >David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
> >Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
> >We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
> >===========================================================
> >
> >==========================================================
> >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> >the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> >message.
> >
>
> ______________________________________________________
> >
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe 61-79-list" in the body of the
> message.
>
>

------------------------------

From: GJFB20 aol.com
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:45:03 EST
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs

Hey, Who gives a crap about ethnic slurs, what does that have to do with ford
trucks

------------------------------

From: "Dennis Thompson" bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: ethnic slurs
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 20:00:26 -0600


----- Original Message -----
From: mjb1962 hotmail.com>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2000 7:42 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: ethnic slurs


> THE PARTS NEED TO BE MANUFACTURED HERE AND THE ENGINEERING NEEDS TO BE
DONE
> HERE TOO. TIRED IF LOSING MY JOB TO AN OVERSEAS FOREIGN COMPANY THAT
SELLS
> TO AMERICANS! WAKE UP AMERICA!
> I TRY TO BUY AMERICAN IF IT IS POSSIBLE.

You can't buy American - many parts for "American" vehicles are manufactured
in mexico and canada ( and probably elswhere ) as well as many being built
or assembled in these two countries.
I've owned American makes built in canada. The ultra-rich auto execs will
send as much work out of the country as possible to line their pockets, they
are the enemy!

SPECTRE


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2000 18:30:01 -0500
From: Paul cfw.com>
Subject: Blivets?
....


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