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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:38:38 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:38:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #59
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small-list Digest Wed, 26 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 059

In This Issue:
Re: Aerostar power windows
Re: Overheating
Spring Vacation and Ford
Spring Vacation and Ford
ADMIN: Server problems
steering woes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:03:30 -0700
From: Richard lmi.net>
Subject: Re: Aerostar power windows

Replying to Tom Ucen's problem with his Aerostar's power windows:

Don't panic.

Sluggish tilting side power window panes is a classic Aerostar failure
that I believe affects all years of this vehicle. There's a Technical
Service Bulletin on it. If you have the (absurd) Alldata/Popular
Mechanics CD ROM, you'll find it if you hunt around for it (there's no
index!).

This happened to me with one window. I took it to a mechanic who charged
me $35 and seemed to ease it up; the "repair" has held for over two
years. If I understood the TSB, what happens is that the window channel
(weatherstrip/guide) wears out-of-spec, allowing the glass to flop and
bind. Tim's suggestion of silicon spray will probably get you by for a
while. I think that the best fix would be to simply glue in a
replacement channel on each side, restoring the proper geometry. I think
that I'd opt for a dealer part for this, because the trouble with this
design seems to require unrealistic precise clearances (just like some
dopey Sony turntables I remember).

When I had my door panels off for another problem, it seemed to me that
the window motors exert quite a bit of torque and horizontal twisting
force. Enough, in fact, to rip the inner steel door panel of my driver's
door. I added some oil to the window crank arm pivot, and I'd recommend
you do likewise if you've got the panel off. Cleaning and lubing the
crank slide channel may be good, too. But the main culprit here is that
the tilted window pane binds in the worn channel: gravity causes one end
to sink lower than the other.

If you remove the panel, be sure to use the proper removal tool or
you'll rip the plastic pushpin holders. Get a few spare pushpins, too
(ironically, an aftermarket design for GM seems to give the best fit
once you cut down the length).

Richard

------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" kendra.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 20:38:45 -0700

>From: Dukedad777 aol.com
>Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 01:24:28 EDT
>Subject: Overheating

Tim's also had some thoughts.. all good !

My thoughts lean towards a suddenly plugging radiator tho!
(been dere, dun dat!)

I'm guessing you live in Seattle by the Snoqualmie(also guess..
could be Stevens or White Pass.. even the double pass on Hwy20) run
where the problem occurred.

Even though we claim good water here, there's some stuff that seems
to screw up radiators. I've replaced enough of them to back up that
theory (at least in my own mind..).

Along with that, I've found some good sources for *good* radiators
(and add heater cores.. same problem) in the Seattle area.

Definitely bypass Shucks Auto.. unless things have changed with the
Al's/Shucks merger deal.

Best choice (New Modine brand source) is :
Softky Brothers Radiators
1287 Westlake Ave Seattle WA 98107
(206)726-6224

Second choice (new Taiwan-built radiators) is:
Performance Radiator
1002 Airport Wy Seattle WA 98134
(206)624-2440
(this is a good alternative if money's a problem.. not as good
quality as the Modine , but *far* better than a Shucks "lifetime
warranty" unit that leaks out of the box!)

Both give discounts to just about anybody.. try your
work/club/school .. (old trick that's worth trying anywhere-- they
know and you know you're hunting for price) . Surprise is a lot of
places give AARP or retired military discounts.. all you gotta do is
ask!

Rebuilts or overhauling your radiator *used* to be a good
alternative.. unfortunately composite radiators, and the new laws
regarding lead have pretty much screwed that option now!

I patched many radiators in my past for leaks, and have even pulled
tank tops and hand-rodded them back on the farm.. but that's 30+
years ago!

SoftKy 'will' fix your radiator, but they are gonna tell you that
it's not a good option for most vehicles as they *can't* use the
previous good stuff due to EPA regs. I believe them.. same regs
applies to lead sheathed cables used in power utility and telco
stuff). As usual, there's exemptions for industrial uses, that's
what Softky does -- tugboat radiators, firetruck radiators..

Your Ranger probably has plastic tanks and aluminum
tube/fins.(composite). solder doesn't work, and the special radiator
epoxies are not all that reliable after there's any amount of
corrosion.. even more reason to go new if you can get a good price!

Hope this helps..


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*Spam Unwelcome Here*
Don't believe me?? Want to see what
can show up in front of YOUR place?
Check out lower left photo at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.robertstech.com/gallery/page13.htm
(Courtesy of Seattle Times)




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 22:26:01 -0700
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Spring Vacation and Ford

Hi Tim and All,

Thank you very much for the suggestion of changing the ACT. I did swap
it for a new unit, at
$18 for the sensor. It was pretty cheap. The old sensor was pretty well
mucked up, and to no
avail would B-12 make it new again.

That narrows the list of sensors on this truck that HAVE NOT been
replaced down to the
anti-knock sensor, and teh two inside the air box. The truck is a 1988
Bronco 2 2.9 with 5
speed.

Every day that I drive it, I love it even more. She is powerful, very
responsive and reliable
as anything. All this, and she's turning 170,000 miles. She still
refuses to leak, or burn a
drop of synthetic oil, and I have 20 PSI of oil pressure on hot idle
after an hours worth of
driving. I use 10W-30 Mobile 1 Synthetic. She idles at 900 RPM.


This week is a bit of a breather over here. It's spring vacation! This
old truck has done well
for me. I am a 16 unit, full time student while working some 50 hours
per week at work. I
carry a 4.0 GPA at college, and for a 20 year old kid this little red
bronco is a dream come
true.

Thanks again to Tim and all of the others for their suggestions and help
in regard to getting
little bronco where I want her.

Take care,

Adam

Tim Turner wrote:

> Adam McLaughlin jps.net> wrote:
>
> > of the mixture. What is an ACT?
>
> Air Charge Temp. Sensor (renamed Intake Air Temp by OBD-II) Senses the
> temperature of the air in the intake manifold. Engines that have it mounted
> in the intake manifold rather than the air ducting are prone to build up on
> the sensing element.
>
> >
> > What is this? I'll poke around it if I knew what it were...
>
> Should be mounted on the intake in one of the runners; I think it's close to
> the ECT on yours and looks similar except on removal you'll see the sensing
> element rather than the shrouding cone you've seen on the ECT. (Same thing; a
> thermistor but the ACT needs a quicker response so doesn't have the metal
> around it.)
>
> Tim
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the
> message.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 21:32:09 -0700
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Spring Vacation and Ford

Hi Tim and All,

Thank you very much for the suggestion of changing the ACT. I did swap it for a new unit, at
$18 for the sensor. It was pretty cheap. The old sensor was pretty well mucked up, and to no
avail would B-12 make it new again.

That narrows the list of sensors on this truck that HAVE NOT been replaced down to the
anti-knock sensor, and teh two inside the air box. The truck is a 1988 Bronco 2 2.9 with 5
speed.

Every day that I drive it, I love it even more. She is powerful, very responsive and reliable
as anything. All this, and she's turning 170,000 miles. She still refuses to leak, or burn a
drop of synthetic oil, and I have 20 PSI of oil pressure on hot idle after an hours worth of
driving. I use 10W-30 Mobile 1 Synthetic. She idles at 900 RPM.


This week is a bit of a breather over here. It's spring vacation! This old truck has done well
for me. I am a 16 unit, full time student while working some 50 hours per week at work. I
carry a 4.0 GPA at college, and for a 20 year old kid this little red bronco is a dream come
true.

Thanks again to Tim and all of the others for their suggestions and help in regard to getting
little bronco where I want her.

Take care,

Adam

Tim Turner wrote:

> Adam McLaughlin jps.net> wrote:
>
> > of the mixture. What is an ACT?
>
> Air Charge Temp. Sensor (renamed Intake Air Temp by OBD-II) Senses the
> temperature of the air in the intake manifold. Engines that have it mounted
> in the intake manifold rather than the air ducting are prone to build up on
> the sensing element.
>
> >
> > What is this? I'll poke around it if I knew what it were...
>
> Should be mounted on the intake in one of the runners; I think it's close to
> the ECT on yours and looks similar except on removal you'll see the sensing
> element rather than the shrouding cone you've seen on the ECT. (Same thing; a
> thermistor but the ACT needs a quicker response so doesn't have the metal
> around it.)
>
> Tim
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com.
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 15:05:58 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Server problems

The server was down for an undetermined period of time. The log
directory filled up on the system and caused all services which
use log files to stop (mail, web, ftp, etc.). The situation has
been corrected and safeguards put into place to prevent future
occurances. I've been out of commission with a stomach flu for
the past two days and was not aware of the problem until this
afternoon.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: KLESNANSKY aol.com
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 22:38:13 EDT
Subject: steering woes

I have a 95 Ranger stx with a set of leveling coils and 2 inch blocks in the
rear. In order to fit the 33x 10.50 swampers. I also have a detroit locker
in the rear. My question is..... When I go around a right hand corner about
200 feet or so after the turn my steering wheel jerks as if I was 4x4ing with
1 tire hitting a rock while the other doesn't. It seems to be picky in this
respect because it happens more when the truck has sat for awhile. I
replaced the auto hubs a couple years back and the passenger side one 3
weekends ago, the insides had spit out. Any thoughts?
The u joints feel tight. I can twist the steering linkage to and fro but no
play side to side.

Ken

------------------------------

End of small-list Digest V2000 #59
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