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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:38:38 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2000 21:38:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #59
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small-list Digest Wed, 26 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 059

In This Issue:
Re: Aerostar power windows
Re: Overheating
Spring Vacation and Ford
Spring Vacation and Ford
ADMIN: Server problems
steering woes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 18:03:30 -0700
From: Richard lmi.net>
Subject: Re: Aerostar power windows

Replying to Tom Ucen's problem with his Aerostar's power windows:

Don't panic.

Sluggish tilting side power window panes is a classic Aerostar failure
that I believe affects all years of this vehicle. There's a Technical
Service Bulletin on it. If you have the (absurd) Alldata/Popular
Mechanics CD ROM, you'll find it if you hunt around for it (there's no
index!).

This happened to me with one window. I took it to a mechanic who charged
me $35 and seemed to ease it up; the "repair" has held for over two
years. If I understood the TSB, what happens is that the window channel
(weatherstrip/guide) wears out-of-spec, allowing the glass to flop and
bind. Tim's suggestion of silicon spray will probably get you by for a
while. I think that the best fix would be to simply glue in a
replacement channel on each side, restoring the proper geometry. I think
that I'd opt for a dealer part for this, because the trouble with this
design seems to require unrealistic precise clearances (just like some
dopey Sony turntables I remember).

When I had my door panels off for another problem, it seemed to me that
the window motors exert quite a bit of torque and horizontal twisting
force. Enough, in fact, to rip the inner steel door panel of my driver's
door. I added some oil to the window crank arm pivot, and I'd recommend
you do likewise if you've got the panel off. Cleaning and lubing the
crank slide channel may be good, too. But the main culprit here is that
the tilted window pane binds in the worn channel: gravity causes one end
to sink lower than the other.

If you remove the panel, be sure to use the proper removal tool or
you'll rip the plastic pushpin holders. Get a few spare pushpins, too
(ironically, an aftermarket design for GM seems to give the best fit
once you cut down the length).

Richard

------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" kendra.com>
Subject: Re: Overheating
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 20:38:45 -0700

>From: Dukedad777 aol.com
>Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 01:24:28 EDT
>Subject: Overheating

Tim's also had some thoughts.. all good !

My thoughts lean towards a suddenly plugging radiator tho!
(been dere, dun dat!)

I'm guessing you live in Seattle by the Snoqualmie(also guess..
could be Stevens or White Pass.. even the double pass on Hwy20) run
where the problem occurred.

Even though we claim good water here, there's some stuff that seems
to screw up radiators. I've replaced enough of them to back up that
theory (at least in my own mind..).

Along with that, I've found some good sources for *good* radiators
(and add heater cores.. same problem) in the Seattle area.

Definitely bypass Shucks Auto.. unless things have changed with the
Al's/Shucks merger deal.

Best choice (New Modine brand source) is :
Softky Brothers Radiators
1287 Westlake Ave Seattle WA 98107
(206)726-6224

Second choice (new Taiwan-built radiators) is:
Performance Radiator
1002 Airport Wy Seattle WA 98134
(206)624-2440
(this is a good alternative if money's a problem.. not as good
quality as the Modine , but *far* better than a Shucks "lifetime
warranty" unit that leaks out of the box!)

Both give discounts to just about anybody.. try your
work/club/school .. (old trick that's worth trying anywhere-- they
know and you know you're hunting for price) . Surprise is a lot of
places give AARP or retired military discounts.. all you gotta do is
ask!

Rebuilts or overhauling your radiator *used* to be a good
alternative.. unfortunately composite radiators, and the new laws
regarding lead have pretty much screwed that option now!

I patched many radiators in my past for leaks, and have even pulled
tank tops and hand-rodded them back on the farm.. but that's 30+
years ago!

SoftKy 'will' fix your radiator, but they are gonna tell you that
it's not a good option for most vehicles as they *can't* use the
previous good stuff due to EPA regs. I believe them.. same regs
applies to lead sheathed cables used in power utility and telco
stuff). As usual, there's exemptions for industrial uses, that's
what Softky does -- tugboat radiators, firetruck radiators..

Your Ranger probably has plastic tanks and aluminum
tube/fins.(composite). solder doesn't work, and the special radiator
epoxies are not all that reliable after there's any amount of
corrosion.. even more reason to go new if you can get a good price!

Hope this helps..


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*Spam Unwelcome Here*
Don't believe me?? Want to see what
can show up in front of YOUR place?
Check out lower left photo at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.robertstech.com/gallery/page13.htm
(Courtesy of Seattle Times)




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 22:26:01 -0700
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Spring Vacation and Ford

Hi Tim and All,

Thank you very much for the suggestion of changing the ACT. I did swap
it for a new unit, at
$18 for the sensor. It was pretty cheap. The old sensor was pretty well....

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