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Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2000 17:52:30 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #58
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small-list Digest Tue, 25 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 058

In This Issue:
Overheating
Aerostar power windows
Re: Fw: FW: Fw: THIS IS NOT A JOKE! - Amanda
Re: Fw: FW: Fw: THIS IS NOT A JOKE! - Amanda
Re: [Bro II in tank pump]
Re: [Overheating ]
Re: [Aerostar power windows]
Re: Overheating
A4LD thing
Re: [A4LD thing] continued

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: Dukedad777 aol.com
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 01:24:28 EDT
Subject: Overheating

Hi all,
Thanks for your replies re. vehicle change , the obvious had to be
pointed out to me again by an outside perspective ( happens a lot ) and it'll
probably be an Explorer next, maybe 94 or 95 if that was the re-style year.
though it's hard to imagine an Explorer up on the dirt and rock mountain
tracks .Haven't seen too many up there yet. Maybe because with 2 wd I haven't
been "up there" much myself :)
Anyway my 94 4liter Ranger decided to get even today on my way over
the mountain pass from Seattle to eastern WA. I was pushing unusually hard up
the grade , pedal to the metal quite often ,probably in the 50 deg. range
outside when I noticed the temp gauge almost pegged out on Hot. I have never
seen it even half way on the hottest days here. I've removed the " octane
shorting block" ( same as the Spout connector?) since gas went up, and now
use 87 with a slight loss of mileage and power. Also changed the stock 14'"
to 15" wheels last fall, if it has any connection.
Most likely a failing t'stat sez I ...
Looks like something I could do myself, if I had the hands of a small child
to get in there past the A/C line. Any tricks to getting the 3 T'stat cover
bolts started back in. I think I can get them out okay, and whats the word on
the " fail open"style thermostats, Just a gimmick like splitfires?

TIA, Dave

94 S-cab 4liter Ranger auto
87 4x4 Man. LB 2.3 Ranger ( son)
98 4x4 Reg Cab LB Ranger( friend)

------------------------------

From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: Aerostar power windows
Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 09:48:59 +0200


Hi folks,

for some time now I have noticed arising problems with the power windows on
my 1993 Aerostar. The performance is getting worse and worse. I looked on
the mechanism, nothing looks broken or twisted. It is like the glass getting
stuck or leaning on the side sealings. Once the window is up halfway, I can
tilt it. Or are the electric motors fading? Is that a known problem? I
looked into the archives but couldn't find anything there.
Thanks for any input.

Tom Ucen
1993 Aerostar 3.0L Ext.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 09:21:39 -0400
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>

Subject: Re: Fw: FW: Fw: THIS IS NOT A JOKE! - Amanda

At 11:19 PM 4/24/00 -0500, you wrote:
>I know this isn't really the place, but it might be important for
>someone...sorry to those of you who have already read this...
>dave

Please read what our FAQ on the subscription page says is
acceptable here.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 10:40:51 -0400
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Fw: FW: Fw: THIS IS NOT A JOKE! - Amanda

At 12:19 AM 4/25/2000, you wrote:
>I know this isn't really the place, but it might be important for
>someone...sorry to those of you who have already read this...

This is another Urban Legend, Like the "Kidney theft" story.
Please don't post these unless you have checked and verified for yourself
that they are true... there are MANY sites (antivirus software
manufacturers) that list these hoaxes.

===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 00 19:36:40 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Bro II in tank pump]

"Brian A" hotmail.com> wrote:
> I have gotten my truck running around quite well now but still have one
> serious problem. the in-tank pump has started causing me problems. I am
> not running it but it will occasionally get in position while i am pulling
> through it to cut my fuel supply to nearly zero.

I imagine it's causing problems!

>
> Does anyone know exactly how much pressure an 87 FI Bro II in tank ran at?


The pressure regulator in the fuel rail would have set the pressure around
30-40 PSI but the pump itself can deliver upwards of 60-80 if pushing against
a restriction. (ie clogged filter, closed needle & seat, etc.)

> I am using a carter 9 psi in the frame with a regulator and gauge under the

> hood to drop back to 5.5. would it over-power my carter?

Very much so.. also a carb type pressure regulator or the carb's needle and
seat. Best suggestion is to remove the in-tank pump and replace with a tube
of equal length (and a filter before the pump!), possibly try to adapt an
early '80s GM TBI in-tank pump as they ran around 10 PSI or so... As you've
learned already it's not going to be easy to try to pull fuel through an inop.
pump either. It's really not too bad of a job to pull the tank (empty); worst
thing is if the locking ring for the sender/pump is rusted together. Might
think about trying to find a '84-'85 tank with sender in a junkyard and just
swap it out, might mean doing away with the return line but I assume you're
not using it on the carb'd application anyway.

Tim

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------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 00 20:02:54 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Overheating ]

Dukedad777aol.com wrote:

> Anyway my 94 4liter Ranger decided to get even today on my way over

> the mountain pass from Seattle to eastern WA. I was pushing unusually hard
up
> the grade , pedal to the metal quite often ,probably in the 50 deg. range
> outside when I noticed the temp gauge almost pegged out on Hot.

OUCH! Glad it wasn't pegged; the 4.0 isn't AS bad as the 2.9 for head
cracking but still likes to if provoked.

> I've removed the " octane
> shorting block" ( same as the Spout connector?) since gas went up, and now
> use 87 with a slight loss of mileage and power.

Are you *sure* it was the octane adj? Removing the spout connector would
result in running around on fixed base timing while the octane adjust just
tells the computer "hey we got crappy fuel; retard the timing a tad across the
board". Generally should not have to use the octane adj. unless you travel
outside the US; but can be an easy 'fix' for other underlying problems.

> Most likely a failing t'stat sez I ...

Probably; might want to check the radiator tanks/seams too, bad for cracking
the plastic tanks.

> Looks like something I could do myself, if I had the hands of a small child

> to get in there past the A/C line. Any tricks to getting the 3 T'stat cover

> bolts started back in.

A 1/4" drive swivel or swivel socket with a bit of black tape around the
swivel if it's 'floppy', take a small piece of paper and jam the bolt into the
socket with the paper between the socket and the bolt to hold the bolt in the
socket while fumbling around. (filling the socket with grease works also but
not as well and messier.)


Tim

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------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 00 20:26:58 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Aerostar power windows]

ThomasUcenpremiereworld.de wrote:
>
> Hi folks,
>
> for some time now I have noticed arising problems with the power windows on
> my 1993 Aerostar. The performance is getting worse and worse. I looked on
> the mechanism, nothing looks broken or twisted. It is like the glass
getting
> stuck or leaning on the side sealings. Once the window is up halfway, I can
> tilt it. Or are the electric motors fading? Is that a known problem? I

It's been a LOONG time since I've been inside an Aerostar door so this'll be
more general information than specific. :-( Try spraying silicone lube on
the weather seals/glass edges. Take the door panel off and try to find out
exactly where the unwanted tilting motion is; probably where the glass is
mounted to the regulator or in the reg. itself would be my guess. Shouldn't
be more than a tiny amount of movement anywhere. If the motor was crapping out
the window should still stay level but might be able to move up & down by hand
rather than tilting fore/aft in it's tracks.

Some Fords use a longer than normal rivet to secure the glass rather than
bolts; if any previous work had been done and a 'short' rivet was used it'll
cause the tilting after it pulls out and eventual falling if both loosen.
(been there!)

> Thanks for any input.

Hope this was of some help.

Tim

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2000 20:17:17 -0500
From: Buck Shoff sktc.net>
Subject: Re: Overheating

Hi Dave,
When I replace the T-stat in my 4.0 Ranger I remove the neg. battery
cable, disconnect the alternator wiring, slip off the serpentine belt,
and remove alt, tensioner, and bracket as a unit. It doesn't take long
to do it and the T-stat housing is in the open, screw those little
suckers in with your fingers.

Just my thoughts, but I don't think I would run with the spout
disconnected. Let's see, you were on a long grade, with higher gear
ratio (bigger tires), and retarded timing. Would this possibly be a
high speed lug, causing the overheating? If like conditions occur with
a new T-stat, you might try plugging the spout back in. Good luck.
Buck Shoff


> Most likely a failing t'stat sez I ...
> Looks like something I could do myself, if I had the hands of a small child
> to get in there past the A/C line. Any tricks to getting the 3 T'stat cover
> bolts started back in.
> TIA, Dave

------------------------------

Date: 25 Apr 00 23:13:47 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: A4LD thing


Had a tow-in for a no-start yesterday on a '94 Explorer; EEC fuse was blown
and after some(lots!) of searching determined it was due to the transmission
solenoids being shorted to the transmission case. There's a TSB about it
causing what feels like starting in second gear (actually 1st with OD applied)
when it (the solenoid) gets grounded and applies; in this case it was rubbing
the tranny pan and drawing in excess of 60 Amps.. something to check before
calling the wrecker..

Would say more but gotta run now..



Tim


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------------------------------

Date: 26 Apr 00 18:52:42 EDT
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [A4LD thing] continued

Tim Turner netscape.net> wrote:
>
> Had a tow-in for a no-start yesterday on a '94 Explorer; EEC fuse was
blown
> and after some(lots!) of searching determined it was due to the
transmission
> solenoids being shorted to the transmission case. There's a TSB about it
> causing what feels like starting in second gear (actually 1st with OD
applied)
> when it (the solenoid) gets grounded and applies; in this case it was
rubbing
> the tranny pan and drawing in excess of 60 Amps.. something to check before
> calling the wrecker..
>
> Would say more but gotta run now..
>

Anyways.. if the 30 Amp EEC fuse in the underhood fusebox keeps blowing or if
it feels like you're starting in 2nd gear crawl under the truck and disconnect
the plug just above the pan on the drivers side near the front and try again.
The wiring can get displaced and rub against the pan/case during filter
service causing a later problem. In the one I had it appears the solenoid had
some shorted coils and drew enough current to melt the wire out of the
solenoid body and then contacted the pan.

If it's just chafed wiring the fix is easy enough; splice in a new section and
cover with heat shrink tubing. OTOH if the solenoid needs replacement the
valve body has to come down and the gasket usually tears. (perfect reason to
install a shift kit! Or have it done at a tranny shop.. roughly $200 in my
area.) There is a redesigned solenoid, but I dont have the info on the VIN
number where the change took place.

Hope this helps someone!

Tim

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------------------------------

End of small-list Digest V2000 #58
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