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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Sun, 09 Apr 2000 23:54:17 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 23:54:17 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #44
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------------------------------------
small-list Digest Sun, 09 Apr 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 044

In This Issue:
Ranger tires
Re: Replacing Spart Plugs
Re: Replacing Spart Plugs
Re: Replacing Spark Plugs
Sway bars
Re: Replacing Spark Plugs
Re: Ranger Tires
Blinkers
Re: Blinkers
5.0 MAF for Ranger
Re: 5.0 MAF for Ranger
Re: Replacing Spark Plugs
Ranger swaybars ( from the current thread about BII sway
timing/advance 302
Re: Replacing Spark Plugs
Re: Oddball Ranger (was swaybars)
cure for boredom

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 21:52:23 -0700
From: Mike or Kathy McVickar earthlink.net>
Subject: Ranger tires

> I've got 63K (and still going) out of the tires on my '91 4X4 Ranger with only slightly uneven wear on the outside of the front tires, even with regular but infrequent tire rotations. There were some problems on Rangers and Explorers with the
> untimely demise of the radius arm bushings, aka insulators, which could lead to alignment being out of spec. Mine went out at about 60K. It's hard to tell if they are bad by visually inspecting them unless you take the nuts and washers off
> the rear of the radius arm and even then, it's still difficult to tell. My truck made a very faint "thud" or "clunk" that didn't sound normal and that's why I suspected the bushings were bad, after checking other things like wheel bearings,
> tie rod ends and ball joints. Also, it pays to have your alignment done by a competent front end shop. If your radius arm bushings need to be replaced, make sure you ask for the "heavy duty" or "improved" design because the auto parts stores
> almost always assume you want the cheapest thing and only offer you the standard bushings. The difference in price is very small, about $2 or less. Sorry for being so long-winded. Hope this helps.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 21:48:42 -0700
From: Edwin Anderson azstarnet.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Spart Plugs

Hi Jeff:

I have a '94 2.3L (4) cyl. Ranger and it is a very time-consuming job to
replace the plugs requiring much patience. I have found that using a 12" +/-
piece of rubber or plastic hose that fits snug over the porcelain spark plug
body is a must, to remove already loosened plugs, and to replace the new
plugs, by starting the threads until they are finger-tight. I then pull of
the hose and finish tightening with a spark plug socket, an extension, and a
ratchet.

Good luck,

Ed Anderson

"Jeff M. Kornfeld" wrote:

> I'm planning to replace the spark plugs on my 96 Ranger which has a 2.3
> liter 4 cylinder engine. The sparkplugs on the left side of the engine
> under the air induction unit look real easy to get at, but the ones on
> the right side under the air plenem look like they would be very
> difficult to get at unless I remove the air plenem and throttle position
> senser. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions about it.
>
> Also I would like advice about getting all=terrain tires for my truck.
> I've got P215/70 R14 on my truck now. I looking for tires with stronger
> side walls (I tend to curb the tires alot when I parallel park), that do
> well I snow and to make my truck look more industrial.
>
> Thanks for all your help,
>
> Jeff
> 96 Ford Ranger 2.3L 4x2
> -Gibson Custom Exhaust
> -KMM True-Rev Max Induction
> -
> ________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
> ==========================================================
> To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
> the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the
> message.


------------------------------

Date: Sat, 08 Apr 2000 23:32:46 -0700
From: Dan Wentz earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Spart Plugs


>I'm planning to replace the spark plugs on my 96 Ranger which has a 2.3
>liter 4 cylinder engine. The sparkplugs on the left side of the engine
>under the air induction unit look real easy to get at, but the ones on
>the right side under the air plenem look like they would be very
>difficult to get at unless I remove the air plenem and throttle position
>senser. I'm wondering if anyone has any suggestions about it.

I had that engine on a Mustang. You're right about the passenger side
being easy to remove. The other side takes some time but isn't that
bad. #1 has the alternator in the way. I've removed the plug without
removing the alternator, but last time I did it I removed the alternator
(quick and easy) and it took less time. #2 is easy, as I recall. #3 looks
hard because the plenum is in the way, but the plenum has a space between
the runners--kind of a V shape--you can get the plug out with a long
extension. The hardest thing actually is getting the wire on/off the
plug. Adult hands just aren't small enough. #4 is a bastard because the
master cylinder is in the way. Use extensions and u-joints as needed.

It's not as bad as it looks--just take your time.

Now if you want to see a real nasty spark plug job have a look at a 4.0 in
an Explorer. I don't look forward to that one.

~Dan

1950 F1 351C--Nobody took it. April Fools!
1998 Explorer--75k mile warranty--something BETTER break!

Visit my Bonus Built 48-52 F Series Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~dwentz


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 00:02:08 -0700
From: "Jon,Jody" direct.ca>
Subject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs



Dan Wentz wrote:

> Now if you want to see a real nasty spark plug job have a look at a 4.0 in
> an Explorer. I don't look forward to that one.

I've done those a couple of times. Its not too bad, once you realize that a
couple are easier to get to from the wheel well..... Far worse is trying to
change plugs on a V8 Mustang II (remove battery, AND battery tray, to access
the last two plugs on pass. side.....)


Blue coyote


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 09:50:32 -0400
From: Paul cfw.com>
Subject: Sway bars

Thanks for the responses about my rear sway bar needs; the 54 F100 has
the springs attached directly below the frame rails (not outside),
causing interference with a normal hookup.

Paul G.

54 panel
93 ranger
91 bronco
94 lightning
89 mustang conv. 5.0
and.....oops....86 s10 blazer

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 11:17:06 -0400
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs

At 03:02 AM 4/9/00, you wrote:


>Dan Wentz wrote:
>
> > Now if you want to see a real nasty spark plug job have a look at a 4.0 in
> > an Explorer. I don't look forward to that one.
>
>I've done those a couple of times. Its not too bad, once you realize that a
>couple are easier to get to from the wheel well..... Far worse is trying to
>change plugs on a V8 Mustang II (remove battery, AND battery tray, to access
>the last two plugs on pass. side.....)


I had a 97 V6 XLT before my current 97 Eddie Bauer V8.
Have changed plugs on both and can't really say one is more difficult...
takes me about 20 minutes on either one.
Jack it up slightly, and remove the "flap" from the inner fender that keeps
dirt/water etc from splashing on the engine, use a 3foot extension and
universal on the spark plug socket.
access from over the tire.


===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

From: "Mike Haight" home.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger Tires
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 15:57:33 -0400

75K out of original Firestone Radial ATX tires on 92 Ranger SC 4x4.
Could have squeezed another 10K or so out of them but was concerned
that the sidewalls might give out before the tread worn (8 years old)
so got new set of same thing only upped the size from 215 to 235 to
get little more rubber meeting the road and better handling.

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Becker" big-river.net>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2000 7:38 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: Ranger Tires


> got 96K out of mine. On a 92 2wd.
>



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 16:02:42 -0400
From: J Cope <88biixlt fncool.com>
Subject: Blinkers

The blinkers on my 88 BII aren't working...
With no other lights on, nothing happens when I click the switch. With the
lights on, whichever light is supposed to be blinking goes out.
I changed the flasher unit in the fuse box, and I changed the
"flasher/directional" fuse, and still no blinkers.
Oddly enough, my "hazard" lights work fine...
Any suggestions...?
Thanks!

JC
'88 BII XLT
10k tow hooks
40ch CB
K&N
Light bar
Headlight Stone Guards
30x9.5 BFG A/T TA KOs
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://88biixlt.web.com/


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 16:12:10 -0400
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Blinkers

At 04:02 PM 4/9/00, you wrote:
>The blinkers on my 88 BII aren't working...
>With no other lights on, nothing happens when I click the switch. With the
>lights on, whichever light is supposed to be blinking goes out.
>I changed the flasher unit in the fuse box, and I changed the
>"flasher/directional" fuse, and still no blinkers.
>Oddly enough, my "hazard" lights work fine...
>Any suggestions...?


Sounds like a bad ground on the lights.
Seen this on several vehicles.


===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

From: "Greg Hopper" hiwaay.net>
Subject: 5.0 MAF for Ranger
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 19:01:44 -0500


I was wondering if I could get some of you 5.0 drivers here to measure the O.D of the inlet of your MAFs and tell me what they are. I recently had a gentleman tell me a Mustang 5.0 MAF would work on my 4.0 Ranger if I swapped the electronics part out (he said he'd used a 73mm model he bought from a friend). He said it would slip right into my factory intake hose. I know I could buy a used aftermarket MAF for a 5.0 and swap the electronics a whole lot cheaper than the $200+ a new Ranger unit costs from Vanir Tech.... then I'd just have to get a K&N cone to fit the Stang MAF... also, if anyone has a 70mmor so or larger MAF they'd like to sell (particularly if it doesn't work cause I only need the shell anyway), let me know, I might be interested. Also, if anyone knows anything about this swap, or the size of the stock 4.0 MAF (I'm figuring 53-55mm or so), that'd be great too...
TIA
dave
ghopper hiwaay.net


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 20:22:07 -0400
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: 5.0 MAF for Ranger

At 08:01 PM 4/9/00, you wrote:

>I was wondering if I could get some of you 5.0 drivers here to measure the
>O.D of the inlet of your MAFs and tell me what they are. I recently had a
>gentleman tell me a Mustang 5.0 MAF would work on my 4.0 Ranger if I
>swapped the electronics part out (he said he'd used a 73mm model he bought
>from a friend). He said it would slip right into my factory intake
>hose. I know I could buy a used aftermarket MAF for a 5.0 and swap the
>electronics a whole lot cheaper than the $200+ a new Ranger unit costs
>from Vanir Tech.... then I'd just have to get a K&N cone to fit the Stang
>MAF... also, if anyone has a 70mmor so or larger MAF they'd like to sell
>(particularly if it doesn't work cause I only need the shell anyway), let
>me know, I might be interested. Also, if anyone knows anything about this
>swap, or the size of the stock 4.0 MAF (I'm figuring 53-55mm or so),
>that'd be great too...


The problem is, You'll destroy driveability... Computer is calibrated to
the MAF (electronics *AND* housing...) Changing the housing will change how
the sensor picks up the flow, and a true say 100 grams/second may only be
seen as 25 grams/second by the new combo... Computer leans the mixture, and
you hole some pistons.


===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 20:57:43 -0400
From: Wesley Murphy highland.net>
Subject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs

I changed the plugs and wires on my 91 Explorer today. It wasn't that bad
of a job, took about 30 minutes. The only one that presented a problem was
the one closest to the firewall on the passenger side; I had to get at it
from the fenderwell.

It's a good thing the car is going in the shop next week to have
head/intake/valve gaskets replaced because a couple of the plugs had heavy
corrosion on them. It's a wonder to me the car was even running at all with
the trash on them. I am also going to guess that this is why I've only been
averaging 250-275 miles per tank.

Wesley Murphy
91 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer

> Now if you want to see a real nasty spark plug job have a look at a 4.0 in
> an Explorer. I don't look forward to that one.



------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" kendra.com>
Subject: Ranger swaybars ( from the current thread about BII sway
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 18:55:15 -0700

Ford's offered swaybars on Rangers in the past.. my brother's 83 2wd
Ranger has both front and back bars from the factory. This was a
'strange' package tho.. the 2.8V6/C4 auto, and it came with 185-14's
on 4.5" rims ???

I just happen to have the rear suspension of a Ranger available to
eyeball (it's my trailer ) and my B II as well. Looks like you
could use both bars off a junkyard B II as the mount points look
same on the rear, and the front would at most need maybe the end
brackets. The Twin I-Beam is real similar between 2wd and 4wd at the
knuckle/spindle area.

*sidebar*
The 'funkfactor' involved in torching out all the stuff may be more
than buying new.. burnt bushings, etc.

Don't laugh, JC Whitney's new bars may be cheaper in the long run!
(and yes, I *do* buy stuff from them , but I think long and hard
/investigate other sources before doing so.. but I've been damned
lucky getting good stuff at decent prices from them by doing so!))



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*Spam Unwelcome Here*
Don't believe me?? Want to see what
can show up in front of YOUR place?
Check out lower left photo at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.robertstech.com/gallery/page13.htm
(Courtesy of Seattle Times)



------------------------------

From: "Bad Brian" hotmail.com>
Subject: timing/advance 302
Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 18:59:22 PDT

three questions. First i put my exhaust on temp. to get it to the muffler
shop. have one full length exhaust running to the back with the muffler
about 4 ft back. and one muffler is directly behind the headers about 18
inches. both are 2.5" flowmasters. would this make the engine run rough
like a cylinder may not be firing properly or something?

i have an older 302, maybe mid or early 70's. Have an 86 T-Bird front assy.
and drive access. on it. would the timing points from the T-Bird match
right?

last, does anyone know of a chart to look at and see what the advances
should be at different RPM's on this engine?

thanks guys





______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 19:35:02 -0700
From: "Michael D. Sheridan" psnw.com>
Subject: Re: Replacing Spark Plugs

This is just a mention to the list that over many years
we, and especially myself, have fought every imaginable
engineering piece of cr that makes it almost impossible to
replace a part or service our cars and other equipment. I'm
sure we can all agree on that or at least some of it. One
thing or another is in the way or no one has yet made a
wrench to get where we must get to get the job done, right?

About 10 years ago when I was younger than the 60 I am now
I looked at myself one day and laughed my arse off after
finding what a fool I had been.

The answer to all the groping around and tearing off skin
and bleeding and cursing is get a drill and nibbler and
CUT OUT everything in your way and then replace the pieces
you cut out with sheet stainless or teakwood, or who cares and
some stainless sheet metal screws or through bolt the thing
if you so desire.

The people that design these things we drive never have to work
on them but we do so it really makes my heart glad when I
can change almost unchangeable spark plugs in some big V8
where you almost have to pull to the front fenders to do
so but cutting a cute hole somewhere in the fender well and
reaching in and popping the plug with one wrench hit and my
fingertips.

Much of other equipment has similar problems. You know it's
goofing off but can never see it when it does without opening
a lid or hood of cover or something like that. DRILL a hole
in the dang thing and watch it while it scr up! hahaha!
Afterward stuff a cute rubber plug in the hole or if it must
be air tight use your imagination to make something that will
work.

Sincerely,

Michael
1999 Mazda B2500
1991 Geo Metro
1974 BMW R90/6
1995 Harley Sportster
California

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 Apr 2000 20:00:36 -0700
From: "Jon,Jody" direct.ca>
Subject: Re: Oddball Ranger (was swaybars)



Keith Christensen wrote:

> This was a
> 'strange' package tho.. the 2.8V6/C4 auto, and it came with 185-14's
> on 4.5" rims ???

That's a mild example..

My '83 Ranger 2WD Reg. cab L box came with the 2.3l auto, the rear
slider window, and dual tanks. No other options at all. I figure that
when new, this truck could have gone almost 900 miles without refueling

> *sidebar*
> The 'funkfactor' involved in torching out all the stuff may be more
> than buying new.. burnt bushings, etc.

If you are getting the whole assembly, don't bother with a torch. grind
or unbolt it as a unit.

Blue coyote


------------------------------

From: Dukedad777 aol.com
Date: Sun, 9 Apr 2000 23:54:31 EDT
Subject: cure for boredom

Hi all,
Have lurked for a while and noticed postings getting thin so thought
I'd jump in. I have a 94 S-cab 2wd 4liter auto with 72k .My problem is it
runs too good and never breaks down. I miss the tinkering I did on all my....


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