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Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 22:14:47 -0500 (EST)
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #35
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small-list Digest Tue, 21 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 035

In This Issue:
Re: 93 Ranger mileage
Re: 93 Ranger mileage
Re: [Fuel Pumps-In Tank]
Re: [missing and/or lack of power?]
Re: Fuel Pumps-In Tank
4.0 vacuum leak and injector/throttle body cleaning
Re: [BII Clutch Question]
Re: [93 Ranger mileage]
C-4 Valve Body
Re: [Fuel Pumps-In Tank]
Re: Fuel Pumps-In Tank
Re: 93 Ranger mileage

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:14:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Lynn Stucky engineer.com>
Subject: Re: 93 Ranger mileage

On the subject of 4 litre gas mileage, 12 to 14 sounds a
little too low. My 90 4L always got 20 to 21. My 99 4L
gets 19 to 20. And I was disappointed. But these are 2
wheel drive. 30 miles per day. Half at highway speed and
half city. I also like to tromp it at the lights. I don't
like to be in congestion.

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------------------------------

From: "Andy Redalen" ieee.org>
Subject: Re: 93 Ranger mileage
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:09:20 -0600

I have a 98 4x4 3.0L, and I average 14.5 in town. I get 17 on the highway
if I'm lucky. I think it's to be expected with these trucks, even though
I'm a little disappointed myself!

Andy


-----Original Message-----
Subject: [small-list] 93 Ranger mileage


My 93 4.0/auto Ranger 4x4 is averaging 12 to 14 mpg.
Is this normal?


------------------------------

Date: 21 Mar 00 21:21:24 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Fuel Pumps-In Tank]

Adam McLaughlin jps.net> wrote:

> Who here has dropped the fuel tank of the Bronco II?

Partially dropped mine (too much rust to continue that day) and many others.
>
> I am having lugging, surging problems with mine, and I would like to get
> that fuel tank down to check it out, or replace the pump, but everything
> is so darn heavy! There is about 21 or 20 gallons of gas in there now,
> and I know that the less gas there is in there, the easier this will be,
> but I shouldn't be driving around on a weak gas pump.

23 Gallon capacity tank and about 6-7 Lb/Gal. Syphon it out or jumper the
terminal in the EEC test connector for pump testing with the fuel hose
rerouted to containers. (I believe it's the last terminal on the short end
and goes to +12V KOEO but that's only memory so double check first!)

>
> 3" suspension lift, 2" bpdy lift make it easy to see on top of it.

Look and see how much rust is around the locking ring; if it's excessive you
may need a new ring and/or tank. On mine it's all become one massive rusted
together unit so I stoppped hammering on it as the only problem was the sender
for the gauge. JCW has a 33 Gallon replacement tank available but it's pricey
(IMHO); a standard size tank should be around $120-150 or so.

>
> I have replaced the high pressure pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure
> regulator and fuel injectors.

With some luck it'd just be the pre-filter on the pump but I've only seen that
once in 15 years.. usually the pump itself.

Tim T

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------------------------------

Date: 21 Mar 00 21:45:19 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [missing and/or lack of power?]

"Joe Swinko" hotmail.com> wrote:

As Adam stated diagnostic codes could help pinpoint the area to look; I
believe there's an article about retrieving codes on the FTE web site.

> funny.It has the 2.9 fuel injected engine, manual trans
> I pulled a plug and it was full of carbon(rich right?) what causes this?

Sooty black equals rich, gloss black would be oil (a bad sign!) check all 6
and see if all are the same.

> Oxygen sensor?

also the coolant temp sensor, MAP/MAF sensor, IAT, TPS, fuel pressure
regulator, evaporative emission system... ad naseum. For pure guessing I
would start with the MAP, TPS and O2 but it'd be nice to have some data to
back it up rather than shot gunning parts at it. Dont forget the results of
the recent catalytic converter topic either. (of course something caused the
converter to fail also...) Make sure all vacuum hoses are in good shape
especially the one to the MAP sensor and have good vacuum on them as well.

Tim T




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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:56:28 +0000
From: Tim Curran gte.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pumps-In Tank

I've found that using a high pressure fuel guage ($35.00 at NAPA) is
pretty
handy in determining which pump is actually bad. You just hook the guage

onto the fuel rail and put the pressure release hose into a bucket and
turn the
electric system on to activate both pumps. If the guage reads 30psi the
high
pressure pump is good and if you hit the release button on the guage and

watch the fuel pump into the bucket and don't see and voids or air
bubbles
then the tank pump is good.......... just my silly little method :o)

Tim

>
> From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
> Subject: Fuel Pumps-In Tank
>
> Who here has dropped the fuel tank of the Bronco II?
>
> I am having lugging, surging problems with mine, and I would like to
get
> that fuel tank down to check it out, or replace the pump, but
everything
> is so darn heavy! There is about 21 or 20 gallons of gas in there now,

> and I know that the less gas there is in there, the easier this will
be,
> but I shouldn't be driving around on a weak gas pump.
>
> 3" suspension lift, 2" bpdy lift make it easy to see on top of it.
>
> I have replaced the high pressure pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure
> regulator and fuel injectors.
>
> Adam


------------------------------

From: "Mark Biederbeck" email.msn.com>
Subject: 4.0 vacuum leak and injector/throttle body cleaning
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 19:13:31 -0800

I have a 91 Ranger 4.0/auto 4x4 that I suspect has a vacuum leak but it
doesn't idle rough. When I engage the cruise it shuts off on occasion, even
when you're on a long flat stretch. Also, it seems to disengage out of
overdrive sooner than it used to. I haven't done a vacuum test yet but does
anyone know what it should be? Any other possible causes?

Also I am curious to know if anyone would recommend doing an injection and
throttle body cleaning. I think owner's manual recommends to do at about
100K, I have 118K. Did it help mileage? Mine has gone down 1-2 in the last
year and also on occasion starts rather rough.

Thanks for any help,
Mark Biederbeck



------------------------------

Date: 21 Mar 00 22:25:10 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [BII Clutch Question]

"DuPont, Patrick" chi-east.org> wrote:

> Hello,
> I need to find out what is involved in replacing a wearing clutch on a 1987
> Bronco II. Someone noticed that the release on my clutch is very high and
> that apparently this is a sign that the clutch is reaching the end of it's
> life cycle.

Very true.. the hydraulic unit adjusts automatically until the clutch is
pretty much gone. When it engages near the top of the travel it's got between
2 months to a year left (depending on many factors)

> As a preventative measure it sounds like the clutch should be
> replaced. Is this a do-it-yourself project?

If you're good with wrenches yes. If caught early the flywheel might not need
resurfacing, but not a bad idea regardless for best life of the replacement
clutch. A good idea to see if the new unit has an 'alignment' tool also; if
not then plan on renting one for the job.

> If not, what does this
> generally run ($$) ?

Probably about 6-7 Hours at the going shop rate in your area. ($300-400?)

> There have been absolutely no signs of slippage which
> I thought was the first sign of a wearing clutch so I never gave it any
> thought.

There will be soon.. the good and bad side of hydraulic clutches... no adj.
required but works until it fails.

> The truck has 103,000 miles and to the best of my knowledge this
> is still the original clutch.

A testament to your driving style then. ;-)

> As always, your feedback is much appreciated !! This list has been an
> incredible resource for me over the years !
>
> ALSO....unrelated to this topic...does anyone know of a similar list for
> FORD Windstar owners? The official FORD WebPages categorize the Windstar
as
> a TRUCK. I'm not sure what the criteria are for this, and let's not

I think the decision was that it was essentially a 'car' chassis with a truck
body as far as the list(s) were concerned but I'm sure someone will correct me
if I'm wrong! The manufacturer has a lot to gain by calling it a truck for
looser EPA, CAFE & NHTSA regulations regardless of what it 'really' is
though.

Given the coming small 4WD offering based on a Mazda car platform maybe
there'll be another list in the works, but that would be a question for Ken
rather than us reg'lar folks. (If anyone wants to buy me one I'll be glad to
write about it here and the off-road lists!)

Tim T

PS: If the slave cylinder for the clutch is mounted inside the bell housing
replace it now to avoid all this labor again in the future.

TT


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------------------------------

Date: 21 Mar 00 22:43:42 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [93 Ranger mileage]

Paul cfw.com> wrote:

> My 93 4.0/auto Ranger 4x4 is averaging 12 to 14 mpg.
> Is this normal?

before varying problems my old carb'd 2.8 B-II would get 18 in town and around
24-26 at 55 MPH with a heavy foot. But this is manual evreything and auto
stuff incurs penalties. Sounds low though; might not hurt to change the O2
sensor.

>
> Well known at the Texaco,

Given the current prices I'd buy stock in the gas company I used! ;-)

Tim T

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------------------------------

From: "Bad Brian" hotmail.com>
Subject: C-4 Valve Body
Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:03:52 PST


Hey guys,

As some of you know I have been building an 87 Bronco II with a well built
302/C-4. I got it running the past couple weeks and have run into one
problem. My valve body is not complete. Seems that a piece or two is
missing and the forward will not run properly. Reverse is strong as ever.
I am not real interested in putting used pieces in this thing and would like
to know what valve body will bolt in there properly. I prefer to get a new
complete already put together one that i can take apart and put together
again on my own so i know its right. I am thinking by the body that came
out it came out of a pinto originally.

Can anyone tell me what C-4 vehicle I should order this part for that will
make it pull properly? I will be adding a B&M shift kit to the body when i
get it new as well.

thanks everyone in advance

Brian


http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/pictures.htm

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:49:04 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Re: [Fuel Pumps-In Tank]

Thanks for your suggestions here, Tim. I think my next sunday will be spent with a jack, under
the old bronco II.

Take Care and Very 73,

Adam

Tim Turner wrote:

> Adam McLaughlin jps.net> wrote:
>
> > Who here has dropped the fuel tank of the Bronco II?
>
> Partially dropped mine (too much rust to continue that day) and many others.
> >
> > I am having lugging, surging problems with mine, and I would like to get
> > that fuel tank down to check it out, or replace the pump, but everything
> > is so darn heavy! There is about 21 or 20 gallons of gas in there now,
> > and I know that the less gas there is in there, the easier this will be,
> > but I shouldn't be driving around on a weak gas pump.
>
> 23 Gallon capacity tank and about 6-7 Lb/Gal. Syphon it out or jumper the
> terminal in the EEC test connector for pump testing with the fuel hose
> rerouted to containers. (I believe it's the last terminal on the short end
> and goes to +12V KOEO but that's only memory so double check first!)
>
> >
> > 3" suspension lift, 2" bpdy lift make it easy to see on top of it.
>
> Look and see how much rust is around the locking ring; if it's excessive you
> may need a new ring and/or tank. On mine it's all become one massive rusted
> together unit so I stoppped hammering on it as the only problem was the sender
> for the gauge. JCW has a 33 Gallon replacement tank available but it's pricey
> (IMHO); a standard size tank should be around $120-150 or so.
>
> >
> > I have replaced the high pressure pump, fuel filter, fuel pressure
> > regulator and fuel injectors.
>
> With some luck it'd just be the pre-filter on the pump but I've only seen that
> once in 15 years.. usually the pump itself.
>
> Tim T
>
> ____________________________________________________________________




------------------------------

Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2000 20:51:31 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pumps-In Tank

Hmm... Okay.

Mine works like this. Full to midway is about 10 gallons, and from mid range to
E, that's about another five gallons.

I always thought that someone had replaced the pump unit in there prior to now,
and had just used a Ranger tank pump. (Ranger pump is 15 gallons stock!)

Adam

Justin Kraynack wrote:

> Adam,
>
> It started as a problem with the fuel gauge. Would read empty 99% of the
> time, then jump up to full and work for a few miles, then back to empty.
> Unfortunatly, the float is part of the fuel pump. Well, soon after the
> gauge started acting up, the pump failed. When I got back there to take a
> look, I noticed that the tank was rotting in the top corner. I changed the
> pump and the tank in one drop, but that's better than 2 times.
>
> Justin


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2000 21:32:06 -0600
From: Buck Shoff sktc.net>
Subject: Re: 93 Ranger mileage

You don't say how you use your Ranger.
My 94 Ranger 4.0 5-speed 4x4 gets 20 to 21. This is mostly highway,
some town. When I am in 4WD high and am pulling mud or moderate snow, I
too get in the 15 range. When I go to the mountains and stay in 4wd low
most of the day, milage drops significantly, I don't know exactly
because I'm having too much fun to check it.(grin). I guess my point is,
we need to know how a 4x4 is used to know if your mileage is normal or
not.
Buck Shoff

Paul wrote:
>
> My 93 4.0/auto Ranger 4x4 is averaging 12 to 14 mpg.....


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