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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Mon, 06 Mar 2000 15:09:35 -0500 (EST) Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 15:09:35 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: small-list digest users Reply-to: small-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #23 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ small-list Digest Sat, 04 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 023 In This Issue: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?] Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?] Re: [Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on Re: 2.3l forced induction Re: [Re: TURBO 2.3] Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?] Re: [My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on ful Re: [2.3l forced induction] shock advice Radiators and V8s Re: Radiators and V8s ADMIN: Mailboxes, slight delay Plugs and wires ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: 4 Mar 00 20:25:38 EST From: Tim Turner Subject: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?] Harry Trafford > Coming up with some type of mechanical, but gentle means of doing the > polishing will keep my hand and fingers from getting cramps. Yeah, I know not > to get it hot enough to melt the plastic. ;-) Dremel Moto-tool with variable speed and at a LOW setting and very carefully using a polishing wheel would be my suggestion.. Tim ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com. ------------------------------ From: "Will Brown" Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 20:33:17 -0500 Subject: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?] On 4 Mar 00, at 20:25, Tim Turner wrote: > Dremel Moto-tool with variable speed and at a LOW setting and very > carefully using a polishing wheel would be my suggestion.. a fine idea no doubt - but on the other hand, I've "restored" two friends' plastic headlight lenses by hand in just a few minutes per car with no overly strenuous buffing required. Maybe a minute each headlight, at most (?) Not even that long I don't think. Guess it depends on how deteriorated things are. fwiw \/\/ ------------------------------ Date: 4 Mar 00 20:36:49 EST From: Tim Turner Subject: Re: [Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on Randy Shelton > Keith, > > Never seen a convertor come and go, Only one I've seen was where the guts melted into a rock and would occasionaly block the exhaust; once the pressure subsided the 'rock' would fall back into the converter shell and all was OK until the next time. A real bitch to diagnose when it wouldn't do it at the shop... finally happened and blew the hose off of my exhaust backpressure guage! fuel (indicated by the black smoke) is taking it's toll on the converter but they're tougher than most people think. Tim ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 20:47:02 -0500 From: "Theodore D. Mills" Subject: Re: 2.3l forced induction >There's no replacement for displacement. I got my F-250 after my brother got his Bronco, and that's what he said when he saw my 460! Poor guy only has a 302. :( But at 9 MPG and $1.41 a gallon, I guess I'm the guy that's poor........ Cost me $45 to fill both tanks yesterday.....ouch! The currently available vehicle choices with MPG's to/from work for me are; Ranger 2.8l V6 14 MPG F250 7.5l V8 9 MPG I don't really care what the wallet says, guess which one I WANT to drive! Ted N3KWQ Aston, Pa 84 Mustang GT (in pieces) 85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L 91 F-250 SC 4X4x460 94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: [Re: TURBO 2.3] Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 19:55:27 CST Unfortunately, the only reason you see a Holley Dominator under the hood of a NASCAR vehicle it because the rules require it! >Looking under the hood of a NASCAR vehicle I see a Holley Dominator rather >than a pro-jection unit.. if it's good enough for Jarret, Martin etc. a >carb >is OK by me. ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "James Steele" Subject: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?] Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 20:01:08 CST >Dremel Moto-tool with variable speed and at a LOW setting and very >carefully >using a polishing wheel would be my suggestion.. > If you don't have a Dremel tool, Auto Zone sells a polishing kit with a supposedly 10,000 grit compound, which includes a polishing pad made of foam rubber attached to a fairly stiff plastic backing. The whole thing fits in your electric drill. Last time I looked, they even sold the replacement polishing pad separately. Probably less than $10, as I recall the whole kit was about $20. ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: 4 Mar 00 21:28:39 EST From: Tim Turner Subject: Re: [My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on ful "Keith Christensen" > This one's got me, an independent shop, and a Ford shop baffled. Intermittant faults can be a real pain to pin point.. I'm not going bald from 'em but certainly have more grey hairs than I used to. > > The vehicle: > '88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles. > Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on > that. First thought is a ground wire not making good contact (or left loose); easy to miss one during the R&R of engine/trans. Probably not the cause but needs mentioning. > > The "Check Engine" light has never came on *while* the "burp" was happening, > nor has there been any codes to read, either with my borrowed cheapy > scanner, or with the independent shop's laptop based scanner. Not surprising.. Pre-OBD-II vehicles take a gross fault to set a code. In other words a sensor that malfunctions for a few milli-seconds or reads incorrectly but within design parameters wont be caught. As an example if your coolant temperature sensor always read 50 Degrees lower than reality it'd pass all tests if performed at 220 Degrees actual since it was within 'expected' parameters. Some codes need as much as 2 minutes of out of range readings before setting. > The independent shop has done all they feel capable of doing at this point, > and said that it would be best to take it to the dealer.. at least they > didn't start playing " parts jockey' games. I'm glad of that. Depending on the equipment (and commitment!) they might have been able to go further by monitoring various sensor outputs when the truck acted up. > > Now for the frustrating part: > I limped it to the Ford shop, blowing intermittent black smoke all the way. > They didn't get to it for about 5 hours, and they showed no codes, Codes are BS.. gives a direction to look at; but NOT a definitive answer. A code for a lean O2 (usually means a new O2 from most techs) can be anything from a vacuum leak to a plugged fuel filter. Sadly since diagnostics pays only a few tenths of an Hour parts get 'shot-gunned' onto your vehicle if the shop pays 'flat rate'. > My gut feel is not good here.. > I'm leaning towards a catalytic converter plugging up intermittently, and > this wouldn't surprise me.. it's the original 2 piece cat, and it's got > seams bulging and small holes/leaks in the back of the post-fire section. Usually wouldnt cause smoke though. If it's so restricted exhaust can't get out how could smoke? > > But... why can't we get codes out of the damned box? Am I also looking at a > bad 'black/silver box' as well? See above, but yes a new box is a (Remote) possibility as is an ignition switch. The O2 is new so we'll leave that out of the mix for now.. for sensors that have a major effect on the mixture we have the MAP, ECT, ACT and TPS. If you can get it to a shop with a 'scope and is willing to do the time commitment to wait for it to act up it should be fixable. (Tough one for dealer OR indie shop though.. the kind you lose $$ on in the hope you gain a new customer later..) > NAPA sells a 'one-piece' cat that's so far the cheapest of any I've found Most of the aftermarket cats are rated to at least a 5.0-5.8 engine so I'd suspect it'd be fine for a 2.9. Tim ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com. ------------------------------ Date: 4 Mar 00 21:45:03 EST From: Tim Turner Subject: Re: [2.3l forced induction] "Will Brown" > At one point I looked for a forced induction kit for my '94 > Ranger/Mazda 2.3l - I found it odd that you can buy forced > induction kits seemingly out the wazoo for 5l and 7l engines, but > below that, pickings are scarce to non-existent... what's the logic > behind this? Seems like a 7l engine would be the last one needing > a HP boost - while the 2.3l seems like a good candidate. I'm new > to the truck scene here, and really don't spend much time > researching things, but this particular scenario seemed plain odd to > me. Comments appreciated. Well it's late on a Saturday Night so I'm well prepared to get verbose on the subject... The old school of V-8 or nothing hasn't caught up to the '90s yet (let alone the '00s) There ARE parts out there for I-4s and V-6s but usually not listed in catalogs as V-8s get all the attention. Why? Not my place to say but in all honesty there really is no substiute for a BIG engine as opposed to small ones for neck snapping acceleration.. Tim ____________________________________________________________________ Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://webmail.netscape.com. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 11:37:48 +0000 Subject: shock advice From: "Stephen Folmer, Jr." Hello all. Been on this list for awhile but first time post. Anyway I need to replace the shocks on my truck and was hoping I could get some buying advice from the vast experience on the list. My truck is a '93 Explorer Limited. I don't do much off-road driving except on fairly clear trails, mostly soft sand. I considered the Eldebrock but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money. Are they really that good? Has anyone tried the Monroe Reflex? Btw I do alot of highway driving and the original shocks now have 109k on them. -- Stephen Folmer e-mail: sfolmerjr earthlink.netThanks. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 08:54:35 -0800 From: Adam McLaughlin Subject: Radiators and V8s Has anyone tried using a 4.0 Explorer radiator with a 302-V8? The radiator for my 2.9 has taken a turn for the worse, and I need to replace it. The explorer 4.0 radiator makes a good swap. There are two kinds, one with a transmission cooler and one without. The price difference is about $55. Now, if I get the radiator with the transmission cooler, would this be 302-V8 friendly? I called Advanced Adaptors, and they said that this has been known to be done, but no one has ever given them any feedback on it. Any ideas welcome... Adam ------------------------------ From: "Bad Brian" Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 10:32:57 PST I found that the 2.8L 84-86 AT radiator is almost identical to the one i had special made for my 87 Bro II with a V-8. This would be a four-core with the AT cooler. It would drop in to your compartment and is twice the size (thick) as the 2.9L manual shift that came factory in mine. I have not run it on the road but idling has been fine. I will let you know about the highway use in a couple weeks. You may want to get a visual on the 2.8 with the cooler and without and judge for yourself. Keep in mind that if you dont already have AT that you would have to relocate your AC condenser to the outside of the engine comp. to fit the thicker rad. in there. But this would have to be done with a V8 swap anyway. Brian > >Has anyone tried using a 4.0 Explorer radiator with a 302-V8? > >The radiator for my 2.9 has taken a turn for the worse, and I need to >replace it. The explorer 4.0 radiator makes a good swap. There are two >kinds, one with a transmission cooler and one without. The price >difference is about $55. > >Now, if I get the radiator with the transmission cooler, would this be >302-V8 friendly? > >I called Advanced Adaptors, and they said that this has been known to be >done, but no one has ever given them any feedback on it. > >Any ideas welcome... > >Adam > > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with>the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 18:24:06 -0500 From: Ken Payne Subject: ADMIN: Mailboxes, slight delay The free email boxes will be delayed until mid-week. I need a couple of extra days to get the sign screen ready. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ From: "Roy Nemmers" Subject: Plugs and wires Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 13:14:19 -0700 I want to change out the plug and wires on my '95 Ranger 4.0. I am thinking about using the following: Magnecor KV85 Competition 8.5mm wires. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/index.htm Torque Master plugs. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.torquemaster.com/ The truck is stock. Looking for reliability and longevity. Comments and opinions appreciative. TIA Roy ------------------------------ End of small-list Digest V2000 #23 ********************************** ---------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassic Truck Mailing List Covering the Ranger, Bronco II, Exploer and Aerostar Send posts to small-list ford-trucks.comIf you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list, send an email to: listar ford-trucks.comwith the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the message. Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ---------------------------------------------------------- |