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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Mon, 06 Mar 2000 15:09:35 -0500 (EST)
Date: Mon, 06 Mar 2000 15:09:35 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #23
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List

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------------------------------------
small-list Digest Sat, 04 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 023

In This Issue:
Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?]
Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?]
Re: [Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on
Re: 2.3l forced induction
Re: [Re: TURBO 2.3]
Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?]
Re: [My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on ful
Re: [2.3l forced induction]
shock advice
Radiators and V8s
Re: Radiators and V8s
ADMIN: Mailboxes, slight delay
Plugs and wires

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 4 Mar 00 20:25:38 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?]

Harry Trafford GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU> wrote:

> Coming up with some type of mechanical, but gentle means of doing the
> polishing will keep my hand and fingers from getting cramps. Yeah, I know
not
> to get it hot enough to melt the plastic. ;-)

Dremel Moto-tool with variable speed and at a LOW setting and very carefully
using a polishing wheel would be my suggestion..

Tim

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------------------------------

From: "Will Brown" mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 4 Mar 2000 20:33:17 -0500
Subject: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?]

On 4 Mar 00, at 20:25, Tim Turner wrote:

> Dremel Moto-tool with variable speed and at a LOW setting and very
> carefully using a polishing wheel would be my suggestion..

a fine idea no doubt - but on the other hand, I've "restored" two
friends' plastic headlight lenses by hand in just a few minutes
per car with no overly strenuous buffing required. Maybe a minute
each headlight, at most (?) Not even that long I don't think. Guess
it depends on how deteriorated things are. fwiw

\/\/

------------------------------

Date: 4 Mar 00 20:36:49 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on

Randy Shelton ols.net> wrote:
> Keith,
>
> Never seen a convertor come and go,

Only one I've seen was where the guts melted into a rock and would occasionaly
block the exhaust; once the pressure subsided the 'rock' would fall back into
the converter shell and all was OK until the next time. A real bitch to
diagnose when it wouldn't do it at the shop... finally happened and blew the
hose off of my exhaust backpressure guage! Seriously though the extra
fuel (indicated by the black smoke) is taking it's toll on the converter but
they're tougher than most people think.

Tim


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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 20:47:02 -0500
From: "Theodore D. Mills" martnet.com>
Subject: Re: 2.3l forced induction

>There's no replacement for displacement.

I got my F-250 after my brother got his Bronco, and that's what he said
when he saw my 460!

Poor guy only has a 302. :(

But at 9 MPG and $1.41 a gallon, I guess I'm the guy that's poor........

Cost me $45 to fill both tanks yesterday.....ouch!

The currently available vehicle choices with MPG's to/from work for me are;

Ranger 2.8l V6 14 MPG
F250 7.5l V8 9 MPG

I don't really care what the wallet says, guess which one I WANT to drive!



Ted

N3KWQ
Aston, Pa

84 Mustang GT (in pieces)
85 Ranger XL 2WD 2.8L
91 F-250 SC 4X4x460
94 Taurus LX wagon 3.8L

------------------------------

From: "James Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: TURBO 2.3]
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 19:55:27 CST

Unfortunately, the only reason you see a Holley Dominator under the hood of
a NASCAR vehicle it because the rules require it!

>Looking under the hood of a NASCAR vehicle I see a Holley Dominator rather
>than a pro-jection unit.. if it's good enough for Jarret, Martin etc. a
>carb
>is OK by me.
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "James Steele" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?]
Date: Sat, 04 Mar 2000 20:01:08 CST



>Dremel Moto-tool with variable speed and at a LOW setting and very
>carefully
>using a polishing wheel would be my suggestion..
>
If you don't have a Dremel tool, Auto Zone sells a polishing kit with a
supposedly 10,000 grit compound, which includes a polishing pad made of foam
rubber attached to a fairly stiff plastic backing. The whole thing fits in
your electric drill. Last time I looked, they even sold the replacement
polishing pad separately. Probably less than $10, as I recall the whole kit
was about $20.
______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: 4 Mar 00 21:28:39 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent injection on ful

"Keith Christensen" kendra.com> wrote:
> This one's got me, an independent shop, and a Ford shop baffled.

Intermittant faults can be a real pain to pin point.. I'm not going bald from
'em but certainly have more grey hairs than I used to.

>
> The vehicle:
> '88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles.
> Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on
> that.

First thought is a ground wire not making good contact (or left loose); easy
to miss one during the R&R of engine/trans. Probably not the cause but needs
mentioning.

>
> The "Check Engine" light has never came on *while* the "burp" was
happening,
> nor has there been any codes to read, either with my borrowed cheapy
> scanner, or with the independent shop's laptop based scanner.

Not surprising.. Pre-OBD-II vehicles take a gross fault to set a code. In
other words a sensor that malfunctions for a few milli-seconds or reads
incorrectly but within design parameters wont be caught. As an example if
your coolant temperature sensor always read 50 Degrees lower than reality it'd
pass all tests if performed at 220 Degrees actual since it was within
'expected' parameters. Some codes need as much as 2 minutes of out of range
readings before setting.


> The independent shop has done all they feel capable of doing at this point,
> and said that it would be best to take it to the dealer.. at least they
> didn't start playing "parts jockey' games.

I'm glad of that. Depending on the equipment (and commitment!) they might have
been able to go further by monitoring various sensor outputs when the truck
acted up.

>
> Now for the frustrating part:
> I limped it to the Ford shop, blowing intermittent black smoke all the way.
> They didn't get to it for about 5 hours, and they showed no codes,

Codes are BS.. gives a direction to look at; but NOT a definitive answer. A
code for a lean O2 (usually means a new O2 from most techs) can be anything
from a vacuum leak to a plugged fuel filter. Sadly since diagnostics pays
only a few tenths of an Hour parts get 'shot-gunned' onto your vehicle if the
shop pays 'flat rate'.

> My gut feel is not good here..
> I'm leaning towards a catalytic converter plugging up intermittently, and
> this wouldn't surprise me.. it's the original 2 piece cat, and it's got
> seams bulging and small holes/leaks in the back of the post-fire section.

Usually wouldnt cause smoke though. If it's so restricted exhaust can't get
out how could smoke?

>
> But... why can't we get codes out of the damned box? Am I also looking at
a
> bad 'black/silver box' as well?

See above, but yes a new box is a (Remote) possibility as is an ignition
switch. The O2 is new so we'll leave that out of the mix for now.. for
sensors that have a major effect on the mixture we have the MAP, ECT, ACT and
TPS. If you can get it to a shop with a 'scope and is willing to do the time
commitment to wait for it to act up it should be fixable. (Tough one for
dealer OR indie shop though.. the kind you lose $$ on in the hope you gain a
new customer later..)



> NAPA sells a 'one-piece' cat that's so far the cheapest of any I've found

Most of the aftermarket cats are rated to at least a 5.0-5.8 engine so I'd
suspect it'd be fine for a 2.9.

Tim

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------------------------------

Date: 4 Mar 00 21:45:03 EST
From: Tim Turner netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [2.3l forced induction]

"Will Brown" mindspring.com> wrote:
> At one point I looked for a forced induction kit for my '94
> Ranger/Mazda 2.3l - I found it odd that you can buy forced
> induction kits seemingly out the wazoo for 5l and 7l engines, but
> below that, pickings are scarce to non-existent... what's the logic
> behind this? Seems like a 7l engine would be the last one needing
> a HP boost - while the 2.3l seems like a good candidate. I'm new
> to the truck scene here, and really don't spend much time
> researching things, but this particular scenario seemed plain odd to
> me. Comments appreciated.

Well it's late on a Saturday Night so I'm well prepared to get verbose on the
subject...

The old school of V-8 or nothing hasn't caught up to the '90s yet (let alone
the '00s) There ARE parts out there for I-4s and V-6s but usually not listed
in catalogs as V-8s get all the attention. Why? Not my place to say but in
all honesty there really is no substiute for a BIG engine as opposed to small
ones for neck snapping acceleration..

Tim


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 11:37:48 +0000
Subject: shock advice
From: "Stephen Folmer, Jr." earthlink.net>

Hello all. Been on this list for awhile but first time post. Anyway I need
to replace the shocks on my truck and was hoping I could get some buying
advice from the vast experience on the list.
My truck is a '93 Explorer Limited. I don't do much off-road driving
except on fairly clear trails, mostly soft sand. I considered the Eldebrock
but I'm not sure I want to spend that much money. Are they really that good?
Has anyone tried the Monroe Reflex? Btw I do alot of highway driving and the
original shocks now have 109k on them.
-- Stephen Folmer
e-mail: sfolmerjr earthlink.net
Thanks.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 08:54:35 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Radiators and V8s

Has anyone tried using a 4.0 Explorer radiator with a 302-V8?

The radiator for my 2.9 has taken a turn for the worse, and I need to
replace it. The explorer 4.0 radiator makes a good swap. There are two
kinds, one with a transmission cooler and one without. The price
difference is about $55.

Now, if I get the radiator with the transmission cooler, would this be
302-V8 friendly?

I called Advanced Adaptors, and they said that this has been known to be
done, but no one has ever given them any feedback on it.

Any ideas welcome...

Adam



------------------------------

From: "Bad Brian" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Radiators and V8s
Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 10:32:57 PST

I found that the 2.8L 84-86 AT radiator is almost identical to the one i had
special made for my 87 Bro II with a V-8. This would be a four-core with
the AT cooler. It would drop in to your compartment and is twice the size
(thick) as the 2.9L manual shift that came factory in mine. I have not run
it on the road but idling has been fine. I will let you know about the
highway use in a couple weeks. You may want to get a visual on the 2.8 with
the cooler and without and judge for yourself.

Keep in mind that if you dont already have AT that you would have to
relocate your AC condenser to the outside of the engine comp. to fit the
thicker rad. in there. But this would have to be done with a V8 swap
anyway.

Brian


>
>Has anyone tried using a 4.0 Explorer radiator with a 302-V8?
>
>The radiator for my 2.9 has taken a turn for the worse, and I need to
>replace it. The explorer 4.0 radiator makes a good swap. There are two
>kinds, one with a transmission cooler and one without. The price
>difference is about $55.
>
>Now, if I get the radiator with the transmission cooler, would this be
>302-V8 friendly?
>
>I called Advanced Adaptors, and they said that this has been known to be
>done, but no one has ever given them any feedback on it.
>
>Any ideas welcome...
>
>Adam
>
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 05 Mar 2000 18:24:06 -0500
From: Ken Payne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Mailboxes, slight delay

The free email boxes will be delayed until mid-week. I need a couple of extra days to get the sign screen ready.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

From: "Roy Nemmers" evolving.com>
Subject: Plugs and wires
Date: Mon, 6 Mar 2000 13:14:19 -0700

I want to change out the plug and wires on my '95 Ranger 4.0.
I am thinking about using the following:

Magnecor KV85 Competition 8.5mm wires.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.magnecor.com/magnecor1/index.htm

Torque Master plugs.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.torquemaster.com/


The truck is stock. Looking for reliability and longevity.

Comments and opinions appreciative.