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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Fri, 03 Mar 2000 19:24:44 -0500 (EST)
Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 19:24:44 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #21
Precedence: bulk

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List

Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
small-list Digest Thu, 02 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 021

In This Issue:
Re: Pinto
Re: Upgrade question
Parts for Ranger/BII
Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?
My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on full" w
Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on ful
Re: Parts for Ranger/BII
Re: TURBO 2.3
Re: TURBO 2.3
Plastic Headlight covers
Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o
Re: Plastic Headlight covers
Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o n fu
Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?
Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 18:24:13 -0500
From: David Cooley bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Pinto

At 05:48 PM 3/2/00, you wrote:
>over the years i had a pair of pintos and learned to drive stick on one....
>lol one of the most fun cars i ever had... lol wish i still had one for my
>commuter car !!!!


I'd like to have one with a 428 CJ in it!


===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated!
===========================================================


------------------------------

From: "Mike Fisher" gte.net>
Subject: Re: Upgrade question
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:42:49 -0600

Hi David,

Thanks a lot for the information. It doesn't sound like a bad deal at all. I
would be interested in what kind of mileage you get after the trip.

Mike Fisher

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Cooley" bellsouth.net>
To: ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 5:55 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: Upgrade question


> At 05:20 PM 3/1/00 -0600, you wrote:
> >Hi David,
> >
> >What modifications were done between the headers and converters? Since I
> >have seen you talking about those here I've been thinking about putting
them
> >on mine.
>
>
> None whatsoever.
> Ford Motorsports part #M-9430-E52 stainless steel, bolts up to the stock
> headpipes and actually has more room than the stock tubular manifolds
> did. Give yourself 2 days to do it, just in case, use LOTS of penetrating
> oil, and get a new EGR tube to put on when you put the pass. side header
> on. My stock one split on the back side and I didn't know until I started
> it up. Chased a leak for hours and finally figured out what it
> was. $53.00 from Ford. Also, throw away the 7/16 hex head bolts they
send
> with it, as there are several a socket won't fit on. Buy the B&M header
> bolts with the allen head, and a long 5/16 allen socket. Follow their
> instructions except:
> removing the pass. side header, remove the intake hose and airbox, snake
> the old manifold around and out thru the top in front where the MAF and
> airbox was. Can't get it off thru the back like they say unless you drop
> the exhaust clear to the muffler.
> On the drivers side, you don't need to disconnect the fuel lines... they
> move enough to get by. Just be careful and ensure the battery is
> disconnected and the engine is cold.
> Seems to feel more responsive to the foot... We'll see how mileage goes
> next week... Have to make an 800 mile round trip to Atlanta.



------------------------------

From: "Bad Brian" hotmail.com>
Subject: Parts for Ranger/BII
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 18:10:01 PST

I need some parts bad and have much trouble finding them around here.
Anyone have these in good shaper or know where i can get them?

I have finally finished my truck and will be driving it in a couple weeks.
Providing i can find these. Thanks in advance for any help and go check out
my site to see the 275HP monster I have hand built. Everything except
boring the block and milling the heads. New pics will be coming up tonight
and over the next few days.

8-88 Ranger/Bronco II

Tachometer must be in good shape. needle not faded bad or broken
Auto Trans. Dipstick tube


thanks guys.


Bad Brian
Southeastern Electronics
kf4obc
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Will Brown" mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 21:46:59 -0500
Subject: Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?

Another recommendation is Novus plastic polish - #2 oughtta work.
I use it on my Miata back window, and have "restored" a few
friends' plastic headlight covers with good success also (as well as
o'scope display covers, etc). Probably in the same league as
Meguiar's, afaik - just another name to look for in the stores if
Meguiar's isn't readily available in your area.

\/\/


------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" kendra.com>
Subject: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on full" w
Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 19:23:51 -0800

This one's got me, an independent shop, and a Ford shop baffled.

The vehicle:
'88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles.
Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on
that.

Symptoms:
Intermittent, started about a month ago with an occasional "burp", then
steadily got worse as to "burp" reoccurrences.
The "burp" is that the injection seems to go full uncontrolled rich, it
loads up badly, loses power, and spews huge clouds of black smoke.
I can usually push it thru these 'burps' to keep going, but it will often
die at a stoplight.

Then it will clear up and run OK , or will clear up after restarting when it
dies. It may run OK for 2 blocks or 20 miles before doing the same all over
again.

Operating temperature doesn't seem to matter, it'll do it *sometimes* when
cold, then clear up, or not happen until it's fully warm. Same with speed or
hills, light or heavy throttle.

The "Check Engine" light has never came on *while* the "burp" was happening,
nor has there been any codes to read, either with my borrowed cheapy
scanner, or with the independent shop's laptop based scanner.

Between me and the independent shop, we've replaced the O2 sensor, the fuel
filter, plugs/wires/cap/rotor (the ignition parts were worn anyway-- the O2
sensor fouled, and the filter for insurance). They didn't run a fuel
pressure regulator test because their equipment was broken..

Meanwhile, I've been shutting it off at all stops and restarting to avoid
'fouling out' the new O2 sensor and plugs. (Thank whatever deity I just
replaced the starter.. )

The independent shop has done all they feel capable of doing at this point,
and said that it would be best to take it to the dealer.. at least they
didn't start playing "parts jockey' games.

Now for the frustrating part:
I limped it to the Ford shop, blowing intermittent black smoke all the way.
They didn't get to it for about 5 hours, and they showed no codes, and the
pressure regulator checked fine! I picked it up, figuring that they hadn't
driven it far enough to get it to burp.. I'd drive it around -get it to act
up and take it back blowing smoke.. NO SMOKE!!

So far-- two days without a major burp, but I did notice a short "black
cloud" event a couple of times when it just barely stuttered when leaving a
stop. Whatever's causing this is still there, it's just hibernating.

My gut feel is not good here..
I'm leaning towards a catalytic converter plugging up intermittently, and
this wouldn't surprise me.. it's the original 2 piece cat, and it's got
seams bulging and small holes/leaks in the back of the post-fire section.

But... why can't we get codes out of the damned box? Am I also looking at a
bad 'black/silver box' as well?

Right now, I'm tempted to replace the cat(s) first, as I know that I'm gonna
have to do this soon anyway, the leaks are audible and getting worse. I'm
not fond of busted knuckles, but this is one part I can replace cheaply
except .. what cat to buy?

(I'm looking at putting headers and a better exhaust on later-- this episode
is just cutting into my funds to do that!)

NAPA sells a 'one-piece' cat that's so far the cheapest of any I've found
locally at $264. Everybody else is in the $375-500 range except for Ford
themselves, $715 !! even with all possible discounts!! Even the Ford
partsguy was shocked!

Any other recommendations? Or anyone who's used a NAPA cat on their B II ??

(BTW-- the BII is somewhat of a celebrity.. that's it in the URL in my sig,
and it's also seen at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.spamfree.org/currentevents/picket-real-1.html )

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
*Spam Unwelcome Here*
Don't believe me?? Want to see what
can show up in front of YOUR place?
Check out lower left photo at:
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.robertstech.com/gallery/page13.htm
(Courtesy of Seattle Times)



------------------------------

From: "Bad Brian" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on ful
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 19:35:13 PST

I had the same problem in my bronco II with the 2.9L engine. I found that
if you crank the truck, turn the key to off then back to on before the
engine dies it stops doing it. I never found the problem in over 200K
miles but that did stop it. Turning off and on each start-up gets old but
it may helps until you find the problem. I would assume a bad computer or
something. I replaced a large number of sensorswith no solution. Just swap
out to a v8 :) Try this. bet it works.


>Symptoms:
>Intermittent, started about a month ago with an occasional "burp", then
>steadily got worse as to "burp" reoccurrences.
>The "burp" is that the injection seems to go full uncontrolled rich, it
>loads up badly, loses power, and spews huge clouds of black smoke.
>I can usually push it thru these 'burps' to keep going, but it will often
>die at a stoplight.
>
>Then it will clear up and run OK , or will clear up after restarting when
>it
>dies. It may run OK for 2 blocks or 20 miles before doing the same all over
>again.
>
>Operating temperature doesn't seem to matter, it'll do it *sometimes* when
>cold, then clear up, or not happen until it's fully warm. Same with speed
>or
>hills, light or heavy throttle.
>
>The "Check Engine" light has never came on *while* the "burp" was
>happening,
>nor has there been any codes to read, either with my borrowed cheapy
>scanner, or with the independent shop's laptop based scanner.
>
>Between me and the independent shop, we've replaced the O2 sensor, the fuel
>filter, plugs/wires/cap/rotor (the ignition parts were worn anyway-- the O2
>sensor fouled, and the filter for insurance). They didn't run a fuel
>pressure regulator test because their equipment was broken..
>
>Meanwhile, I've been shutting it off at all stops and restarting to avoid
>'fouling out' the new O2 sensor and plugs. (Thank whatever deity I just
>replaced the starter.. )
>
>The independent shop has done all they feel capable of doing at this point,
>and said that it would be best to take it to the dealer.. at least they
>didn't start playing "parts jockey' games.
>
>Now for the frustrating part:
>I limped it to the Ford shop, blowing intermittent black smoke all the way.
>They didn't get to it for about 5 hours, and they showed no codes, and the
>pressure regulator checked fine! I picked it up, figuring that they hadn't
>driven it far enough to get it to burp.. I'd drive it around -get it to act
>up and take it back blowing smoke.. NO SMOKE!!
>
>So far-- two days without a major burp, but I did notice a short "black
>cloud" event a couple of times when it just barely stuttered when leaving a
>stop. Whatever's causing this is still there, it's just hibernating.
>
>My gut feel is not good here..
>I'm leaning towards a catalytic converter plugging up intermittently, and
>this wouldn't surprise me.. it's the original 2 piece cat, and it's got
>seams bulging and small holes/leaks in the back of the post-fire section.
>
>But... why can't we get codes out of the damned box? Am I also looking at
>a
>bad 'black/silver box' as well?
>
>


Bad Brian
Southeastern Electronics
kf4obc
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://southeastern.webjump.com

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 19:48:54 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin jps.net>
Subject: Re: Parts for Ranger/BII

Brian,

I would love to see your web site, but I keep seeing:

ERROR 312 -- Cannot connect to the server


What's going on there? I want to see the 275 hp Bronco!!

Adam



Bad Brian wrote:

> I need some parts bad and have much trouble finding them around here.
> Anyone have these in good shaper or know where i can get them?
>
> I have finally finished my truck and will be driving it in a couple weeks.
> Providing i can find these. Thanks in advance for any help and go check out
> my site to see the 275HP monster I have hand built. Everything except
> boring the block and milling the heads. New pics will be coming up tonight
> and over the next few days.
>
> 8-88 Ranger/Bronco II
>
> Tachometer must be in good shape. needle not faded bad or broken
> Auto Trans. Dipstick tube
>
> thanks guys.
>
> Bad Brian
> Southeastern Electronics
> kf4obc
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:05:33 +0000
From: Tim Curran gte.net>
Subject: Re: TURBO 2.3

I've noticed that people tend to always want to lean toward higher displacement engines to
achieve more horse power then the vehicle they're dropping the engine in can handle. The 2.3
seems to be the dominator when it come to domestic 4 cylinder racing and sadly it appears
that few people actually take the time to look at the oceans of aftermarket parts that are
available to build a 7k 2.3....

Consider this,

Take a stock 2.3 OHC core, machine shop time to hot tank the block and head and bore the
block +0.030", install new frost plugs, redo the valve seats and grind the valves, grind the
crank, install new rod and main bearings, gaskets .... est cost $400.00

Keith Black pistons $150

Crower/Manley cromemoly rods $375

Competition Holley intake manifold designed for Rangers $197
350 Holley $268

Mallory Dual point distributor (converting from fuel injection) $150
Mallory coil $85

Header $175

Balance rotating mass $100

With all the odds and ends added in the total would probably be in the neighborhood of
$2000.00.... for that cost you'll be pumping out around 130 HP, that's more than enough for a
street Ranger, plus you'll have the advantage of the lighter 4 cylinder for better cornering
and braking....

How much would it take to convert to a 3.8 and turbo charge it, considering that the
bellhousing won't match so you'll be looking for a tranny and also trying to integrate all
the computer and wire looms for the fuel injection..... I know I don't have that much hair
left on my head.


>
>
> Personally, I dislike the 2.3 (turbo or not). Not trying to start a love/hate
> thread, just my feeling. Why not go for a 3.8 turbo?


------------------------------

From: "mikah vosekuil" hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: TURBO 2.3
Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:41:42 PST

i really like the 2.3 i had in my other truck. i've owned other vehicles
with this engine and never had a complaint on any of them. it a real strong
4cyl. i am interested in bulding a turbo 2.3 for a ranger. it will be port
fuel injected. i know a lot of people disagree, but i say carburetors
belong on lawnmowers. yes carbureted vehicles perform but i just plain
don't like them.


>From: Tim Curran gte.net>
>Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>To: small-list ford-trucks.com
>Subject: [small-list] Re: TURBO 2.3
>Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:05:33 +0000
>
>I've noticed that people tend to always want to lean toward higher
>displacement engines to
>achieve more horse power then the vehicle they're dropping the engine in
>can handle. The 2.3
>seems to be the dominator when it come to domestic 4 cylinder racing and
>sadly it appears
>that few people actually take the time to look at the oceans of aftermarket
>parts that are
>available to build a 7k 2.3....
>
>Consider this,
>
>Take a stock 2.3 OHC core, machine shop time to hot tank the block and head
>and bore the
>block +0.030", install new frost plugs, redo the valve seats and grind the
>valves, grind the
>crank, install new rod and main bearings, gaskets .... est cost $400.00
>
>Keith Black pistons $150
>
>Crower/Manley cromemoly rods $375
>
>Competition Holley intake manifold designed for Rangers $197
>350 Holley $268
>
>Mallory Dual point distributor (converting from fuel injection) $150
>Mallory coil $85
>
>Header $175
>
>Balance rotating mass $100
>
>With all the odds and ends added in the total would probably be in the
>neighborhood of
>$2000.00.... for that cost you'll be pumping out around 130 HP, that's more
>than enough for a
>street Ranger, plus you'll have the advantage of the lighter 4 cylinder for
>better cornering
>and braking....
>
>How much would it take to convert to a 3.8 and turbo charge it, considering
>that the
>bellhousing won't match so you'll be looking for a tranny and also trying
>to integrate all
>the computer and wire looms for the fuel injection..... I know I don't have
>that much hair
>left on my head.
>
>
> >
> >
> > Personally, I dislike the 2.3 (turbo or not). Not trying to start a
>love/hate
> > thread, just my feeling. Why not go for a 3.8 turbo?
>
>==========================================================
>To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
>the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the body of the
>message.
>

______________________________________________________


------------------------------

From: "Gary Snook" home.com>
Subject: Plastic Headlight covers
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:24:56 -0600


You can go to any Motorcycle shop and pick up a wax for plastic windsheilds. It fills the sctrtches and makes the windsheild and other plastic parts clear again......

Hope this helps,
Gary
94 4.0 5spd XLT Ranger


------------------------------

From: "Campbell, Carl " eden.trevecca.edu>
Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o
Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:05:31 -0600

Keith: I have an 88 BII 2.9L. I just had to replace the MAP sensor because
the injectors went to full rich. Symtoms were the same as yours: barely
idoled and lots of black smoke. Although mine didn't burp intermittently it
sounds like this sensor could be causing your problem. This sensor is
mounted near the fire wall just to the left of the intake plenum and has a
vacuum line running to a tap at the front of the plenum. It cost $67.00 at
my favorite independent parts store. It might be cheaper at "the ZONE." Be
sure to get the OEM part number on the one you have now because the book
shows two different series for that year and they look exactly the same.
Good luck.
Carl
BTW: I noticed your email address. Do you work in broadcast radio? You can
respond at my address : ccampbell eden.trevecca.edu
> ----------
> From: Keith Christensen[SMTP:radiopro kendra.com]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 9:23 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: [small-list] My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection
> on full" with lotsa black smoke (Cat replace?)
>
>
>
> The vehicle:
> '88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles.
> Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on
> that.
>
> Symptoms:
> Intermittent, started about a month ago with an occasional "burp", then
> steadily got worse as to "burp" reoccurrences.
> The "burp" is that the injection seems to go full uncontrolled rich, it
> loads up badly, loses power, and spews huge clouds of black smoke.
> I can usually push it thru these 'burps' to keep going, but it will often
> die at a stoplight.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 15:39:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Plastic Headlight covers
From: FRED G SAYLES juno.com>

Clean the parts with soap and water, Dry them well , then poliurathane
or varnish let dry overnight should be good for at least a year can
be repeated as often as you want, also good fore any other lenses..
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 15:49:19 -0500
Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o n fu
From: FRED G SAYLES juno.com>

Try unplugging the throtle plate sensor and let it hang, if this solves
your problem its the sensor or it might be in the chip ,,,,
________________________________________________________________





------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 15:55:08 -0500
From: Harry Trafford GNV.IFAS.UFL.EDU>
Subject: Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses?

Many thanks on the suggestions about bringing back the clarity to my dull
lenses. I'll look for the Meguire 17 product and the other type again. I think
the local NAPA was the only place I haven't looked yet. Has anyone tried
toothpaste?(just asking).
Coming up with some type of mechanical, but gentle means of doing the
polishing will keep my hand and fingers from getting cramps. Yeah, I know not
to get it hot enough to melt the plastic. ;-)

Harry


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 19:27:24 -0500
From: Randy Shelton ols.net>
Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent

Keith,

Never seen a convertor come and go, but my brother's Bronco II did almost
the same
as yours, with a big difference/loss of gas mileage. His turned out to be
the fuel
pressure regulator. It's on the fuel rail, and controlled with a vacuum
line. His
finally ruptured, and was sucking fuel through the vacuum system. Turn the
switch on to pressurize the system, then disconnect the vacuum line and
wait for
fuel. If you see any, replace the regulator. If you don't, still suspect
this, and when
it acts up again, pull the vacuum line and check for fuel.

Hope this helps,

Randy



At 07:23 PM 03/02/2000 -0800, you wrote:
>This one's got me, an independent shop, and a Ford shop baffled.
>
>The vehicle:
>'88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles.
>Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on