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Received: with LISTAR (v0.128a; list small-list); Fri, 03 Mar 2000 19:24:44 -0500 (EST) Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 19:24:44 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server To: small-list digest users Reply-to: small-list  ford-trucks.com Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #21 Precedence: bulk ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ small-list Digest Thu, 02 Mar 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 021 In This Issue: Re: Pinto Re: Upgrade question Parts for Ranger/BII Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses? My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on full" w Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on ful Re: Parts for Ranger/BII Re: TURBO 2.3 Re: TURBO 2.3 Plastic Headlight covers Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o Re: Plastic Headlight covers Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o n fu Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses? Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 18:24:13 -0500 From: David Cooley Subject: Re: Pinto At 05:48 PM 3/2/00, you wrote: >over the years i had a pair of pintos and learned to drive stick on one.... >lol one of the most fun cars i ever had... lol wish i still had one for my >commuter car !!!! I'd like to have one with a 428 CJ in it! =========================================================== David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068 We are Borg... Prepare to be assimilated! =========================================================== ------------------------------ From: "Mike Fisher" Subject: Re: Upgrade question Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 17:42:49 -0600 Hi David, Thanks a lot for the information. It doesn't sound like a bad deal at all. I would be interested in what kind of mileage you get after the trip. Mike Fisher ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Cooley" To: Sent: Wednesday, March 01, 2000 5:55 PM Subject: [small-list] Re: Upgrade question > At 05:20 PM 3/1/00 -0600, you wrote: > >Hi David, > > > >What modifications were done between the headers and converters? Since I > >have seen you talking about those here I've been thinking about putting them > >on mine. > > > None whatsoever. > Ford Motorsports part #M-9430-E52 stainless steel, bolts up to the stock > headpipes and actually has more room than the stock tubular manifolds > did. Give yourself 2 days to do it, just in case, use LOTS of penetrating > oil, and get a new EGR tube to put on when you put the pass. side header > on. My stock one split on the back side and I didn't know until I started > it up. Chased a leak for hours and finally figured out what it > was. $53.00 from Ford. Also, throw away the 7/16 hex head bolts they send > with it, as there are several a socket won't fit on. Buy the B&M header > bolts with the allen head, and a long 5/16 allen socket. Follow their > instructions except: > removing the pass. side header, remove the intake hose and airbox, snake > the old manifold around and out thru the top in front where the MAF and > airbox was. Can't get it off thru the back like they say unless you drop > the exhaust clear to the muffler. > On the drivers side, you don't need to disconnect the fuel lines... they > move enough to get by. Just be careful and ensure the battery is > disconnected and the engine is cold. > Seems to feel more responsive to the foot... We'll see how mileage goes > next week... Have to make an 800 mile round trip to Atlanta. ------------------------------ From: "Bad Brian" Subject: Parts for Ranger/BII Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 18:10:01 PST I need some parts bad and have much trouble finding them around here. Anyone have these in good shaper or know where i can get them? I have finally finished my truck and will be driving it in a couple weeks. Providing i can find these. Thanks in advance for any help and go check out my site to see the 275HP monster I have hand built. Everything except boring the block and milling the heads. New pics will be coming up tonight and over the next few days. 8-88 Ranger/Bronco II Tachometer must be in good shape. needle not faded bad or broken Auto Trans. Dipstick tube thanks guys. Bad Brian Southeastern Electronics kf4obc http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/ ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Will Brown" Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 21:46:59 -0500 Subject: Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses? Another recommendation is Novus plastic polish - #2 oughtta work. I use it on my Miata back window, and have "restored" a few friends' plastic headlight covers with good success also (as well as o'scope display covers, etc). Probably in the same league as Meguiar's, afaik - just another name to look for in the stores if Meguiar's isn't readily available in your area. \/\/ ------------------------------ From: "Keith Christensen" Subject: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on full" w Date: Thu, 2 Mar 2000 19:23:51 -0800 This one's got me, an independent shop, and a Ford shop baffled. The vehicle: '88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles. Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on that. Symptoms: Intermittent, started about a month ago with an occasional "burp", then steadily got worse as to "burp" reoccurrences. The "burp" is that the injection seems to go full uncontrolled rich, it loads up badly, loses power, and spews huge clouds of black smoke. I can usually push it thru these 'burps' to keep going, but it will often die at a stoplight. Then it will clear up and run OK , or will clear up after restarting when it dies. It may run OK for 2 blocks or 20 miles before doing the same all over again. Operating temperature doesn't seem to matter, it'll do it *sometimes* when cold, then clear up, or not happen until it's fully warm. Same with speed or hills, light or heavy throttle. The "Check Engine" light has never came on *while* the "burp" was happening, nor has there been any codes to read, either with my borrowed cheapy scanner, or with the independent shop's laptop based scanner. Between me and the independent shop, we've replaced the O2 sensor, the fuel filter, plugs/wires/cap/rotor (the ignition parts were worn anyway-- the O2 sensor fouled, and the filter for insurance). They didn't run a fuel pressure regulator test because their equipment was broken.. Meanwhile, I've been shutting it off at all stops and restarting to avoid 'fouling out' the new O2 sensor and plugs. (Thank whatever deity I just replaced the starter.. ) The independent shop has done all they feel capable of doing at this point, and said that it would be best to take it to the dealer.. at least they didn't start playing "parts jockey' games. Now for the frustrating part: I limped it to the Ford shop, blowing intermittent black smoke all the way. They didn't get to it for about 5 hours, and they showed no codes, and the pressure regulator checked fine! I picked it up, figuring that they hadn't driven it far enough to get it to burp.. I'd drive it around -get it to act up and take it back blowing smoke.. NO SMOKE!! So far-- two days without a major burp, but I did notice a short "black cloud" event a couple of times when it just barely stuttered when leaving a stop. Whatever's causing this is still there, it's just hibernating. My gut feel is not good here.. I'm leaning towards a catalytic converter plugging up intermittently, and this wouldn't surprise me.. it's the original 2 piece cat, and it's got seams bulging and small holes/leaks in the back of the post-fire section. But... why can't we get codes out of the damned box? Am I also looking at a bad 'black/silver box' as well? Right now, I'm tempted to replace the cat(s) first, as I know that I'm gonna have to do this soon anyway, the leaks are audible and getting worse. I'm not fond of busted knuckles, but this is one part I can replace cheaply except .. what cat to buy? (I'm looking at putting headers and a better exhaust on later-- this episode is just cutting into my funds to do that!) NAPA sells a 'one-piece' cat that's so far the cheapest of any I've found locally at $264. Everybody else is in the $375-500 range except for Ford themselves, $715 !! even with all possible discounts!! Even the Ford partsguy was shocked! Any other recommendations? Or anyone who's used a NAPA cat on their B II ?? (BTW-- the BII is somewhat of a celebrity.. that's it in the URL in my sig, and it's also seen at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.spamfree.org/currentevents/picket-real-1.html ) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ *Spam Unwelcome Here* Don't believe me?? Want to see what can show up in front of YOUR place? Check out lower left photo at: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.robertstech.com/gallery/page13.htm (Courtesy of Seattle Times) ------------------------------ From: "Bad Brian" Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection on ful Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 19:35:13 PST I had the same problem in my bronco II with the 2.9L engine. I found that if you crank the truck, turn the key to off then back to on before the engine dies it stops doing it. I never found the problem in over 200K miles but that did stop it. Turning off and on each start-up gets old but it may helps until you find the problem. I would assume a bad computer or something. I replaced a large number of sensorswith no solution. Just swap out to a v8 :) Try this. bet it works. >Symptoms: >Intermittent, started about a month ago with an occasional "burp", then >steadily got worse as to "burp" reoccurrences. >The "burp" is that the injection seems to go full uncontrolled rich, it >loads up badly, loses power, and spews huge clouds of black smoke. >I can usually push it thru these 'burps' to keep going, but it will often >die at a stoplight. > >Then it will clear up and run OK , or will clear up after restarting when >it >dies. It may run OK for 2 blocks or 20 miles before doing the same all over >again. > >Operating temperature doesn't seem to matter, it'll do it *sometimes* when >cold, then clear up, or not happen until it's fully warm. Same with speed >or >hills, light or heavy throttle. > >The "Check Engine" light has never came on *while* the "burp" was >happening, >nor has there been any codes to read, either with my borrowed cheapy >scanner, or with the independent shop's laptop based scanner. > >Between me and the independent shop, we've replaced the O2 sensor, the fuel >filter, plugs/wires/cap/rotor (the ignition parts were worn anyway-- the O2 >sensor fouled, and the filter for insurance). They didn't run a fuel >pressure regulator test because their equipment was broken.. > >Meanwhile, I've been shutting it off at all stops and restarting to avoid >'fouling out' the new O2 sensor and plugs. (Thank whatever deity I just >replaced the starter.. ) > >The independent shop has done all they feel capable of doing at this point, >and said that it would be best to take it to the dealer.. at least they >didn't start playing "parts jockey' games. > >Now for the frustrating part: >I limped it to the Ford shop, blowing intermittent black smoke all the way. >They didn't get to it for about 5 hours, and they showed no codes, and the >pressure regulator checked fine! I picked it up, figuring that they hadn't >driven it far enough to get it to burp.. I'd drive it around -get it to act >up and take it back blowing smoke.. NO SMOKE!! > >So far-- two days without a major burp, but I did notice a short "black >cloud" event a couple of times when it just barely stuttered when leaving a >stop. Whatever's causing this is still there, it's just hibernating. > >My gut feel is not good here.. >I'm leaning towards a catalytic converter plugging up intermittently, and >this wouldn't surprise me.. it's the original 2 piece cat, and it's got >seams bulging and small holes/leaks in the back of the post-fire section. > >But... why can't we get codes out of the damned box? Am I also looking at >a >bad 'black/silver box' as well? > > Bad Brian Southeastern Electronics kf4obc http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://southeastern.webjump.com ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 19:48:54 -0800 From: Adam McLaughlin Subject: Re: Parts for Ranger/BII Brian, I would love to see your web site, but I keep seeing: ERROR 312 -- Cannot connect to the server What's going on there? I want to see the 275 hp Bronco!! Adam Bad Brian wrote: > I need some parts bad and have much trouble finding them around here. > Anyone have these in good shaper or know where i can get them? > > I have finally finished my truck and will be driving it in a couple weeks. > Providing i can find these. Thanks in advance for any help and go check out > my site to see the 275HP monster I have hand built. Everything except > boring the block and milling the heads. New pics will be coming up tonight > and over the next few days. > > 8-88 Ranger/Bronco II > > Tachometer must be in good shape. needle not faded bad or broken > Auto Trans. Dipstick tube > > thanks guys. > > Bad Brian > Southeastern Electronics > kf4obc > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www2.webshoppe.net/users/briana/ > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:05:33 +0000 From: Tim Curran Subject: Re: TURBO 2.3 I've noticed that people tend to always want to lean toward higher displacement engines to achieve more horse power then the vehicle they're dropping the engine in can handle. The 2.3 seems to be the dominator when it come to domestic 4 cylinder racing and sadly it appears that few people actually take the time to look at the oceans of aftermarket parts that are available to build a 7k 2.3.... Consider this, Take a stock 2.3 OHC core, machine shop time to hot tank the block and head and bore the block +0.030", install new frost plugs, redo the valve seats and grind the valves, grind the crank, install new rod and main bearings, gaskets .... est cost $400.00 Keith Black pistons $150 Crower/Manley cromemoly rods $375 Competition Holley intake manifold designed for Rangers $197 350 Holley $268 Mallory Dual point distributor (converting from fuel injection) $150 Mallory coil $85 Header $175 Balance rotating mass $100 With all the odds and ends added in the total would probably be in the neighborhood of $2000.00.... for that cost you'll be pumping out around 130 HP, that's more than enough for a street Ranger, plus you'll have the advantage of the lighter 4 cylinder for better cornering and braking.... How much would it take to convert to a 3.8 and turbo charge it, considering that the bellhousing won't match so you'll be looking for a tranny and also trying to integrate all the computer and wire looms for the fuel injection..... I know I don't have that much hair left on my head. > > > Personally, I dislike the 2.3 (turbo or not). Not trying to start a love/hate > thread, just my feeling. Why not go for a 3.8 turbo? ------------------------------ From: "mikah vosekuil" Subject: Re: TURBO 2.3 Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 22:41:42 PST i really like the 2.3 i had in my other truck. i've owned other vehicles with this engine and never had a complaint on any of them. it a real strong 4cyl. i am interested in bulding a turbo 2.3 for a ranger. it will be port fuel injected. i know a lot of people disagree, but i say carburetors belong on lawnmowers. yes carbureted vehicles perform but i just plain don't like them. >From: Tim Curran >Reply-To: small-list ford-trucks.com >To: small-list ford-trucks.com >Subject: [small-list] Re: TURBO 2.3 >Date: Thu, 02 Mar 2000 23:05:33 +0000 > >I've noticed that people tend to always want to lean toward higher >displacement engines to >achieve more horse power then the vehicle they're dropping the engine in >can handle. The 2.3 >seems to be the dominator when it come to domestic 4 cylinder racing and >sadly it appears >that few people actually take the time to look at the oceans of aftermarket >parts that are >available to build a 7k 2.3.... > >Consider this, > >Take a stock 2.3 OHC core, machine shop time to hot tank the block and head >and bore the >block +0.030", install new frost plugs, redo the valve seats and grind the >valves, grind the >crank, install new rod and main bearings, gaskets .... est cost $400.00 > >Keith Black pistons $150 > >Crower/Manley cromemoly rods $375 > >Competition Holley intake manifold designed for Rangers $197 >350 Holley $268 > >Mallory Dual point distributor (converting from fuel injection) $150 >Mallory coil $85 > >Header $175 > >Balance rotating mass $100 > >With all the odds and ends added in the total would probably be in the >neighborhood of >$2000.00.... for that cost you'll be pumping out around 130 HP, that's more >than enough for a >street Ranger, plus you'll have the advantage of the lighter 4 cylinder for >better cornering >and braking.... > >How much would it take to convert to a 3.8 and turbo charge it, considering >that the >bellhousing won't match so you'll be looking for a tranny and also trying >to integrate all >the computer and wire looms for the fuel injection..... I know I don't have >that much hair >left on my head. > > > > > > > > Personally, I dislike the 2.3 (turbo or not). Not trying to start a >love/hate > > thread, just my feeling. Why not go for a 3.8 turbo? > >========================================================== >To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with >the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the body of the >message. > ______________________________________________________ ------------------------------ From: "Gary Snook" Subject: Plastic Headlight covers Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 10:24:56 -0600 You can go to any Motorcycle shop and pick up a wax for plastic windsheilds. It fills the sctrtches and makes the windsheild and other plastic parts clear again...... Hope this helps, Gary 94 4.0 5spd XLT Ranger ------------------------------ From: "Campbell, Carl " Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 11:05:31 -0600 Keith: I have an 88 BII 2.9L. I just had to replace the MAP sensor because the injectors went to full rich. Symtoms were the same as yours: barely idoled and lots of black smoke. Although mine didn't burp intermittently it sounds like this sensor could be causing your problem. This sensor is mounted near the fire wall just to the left of the intake plenum and has a vacuum line running to a tap at the front of the plenum. It cost $67.00 at my favorite independent parts store. It might be cheaper at "the ZONE." Be sure to get the OEM part number on the one you have now because the book shows two different series for that year and they look exactly the same. Good luck. Carl BTW: I noticed your email address. Do you work in broadcast radio? You can respond at my address : ccampbell eden.trevecca.edu > ---------- > From: Keith Christensen[SMTP:radiopro kendra.com] > Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com > Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 9:23 PM > To: small-list ford-trucks.com > Subject: [small-list] My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection > on full" with lotsa black smoke (Cat replace?) > > > > The vehicle: > '88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles. > Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on > that. > > Symptoms: > Intermittent, started about a month ago with an occasional "burp", then > steadily got worse as to "burp" reoccurrences. > The "burp" is that the injection seems to go full uncontrolled rich, it > loads up badly, loses power, and spews huge clouds of black smoke. > I can usually push it thru these 'burps' to keep going, but it will often > die at a stoplight. > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 15:39:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Plastic Headlight covers From: FRED G SAYLES Clean the parts with soap and water, Dry them well , then poliurathane or varnish let dry overnight should be good for at least a year can be repeated as often as you want, also good fore any other lenses.. ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 3 Mar 2000 15:49:19 -0500 Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent "injection o n fu From: FRED G SAYLES Try unplugging the throtle plate sensor and let it hang, if this solves your problem its the sensor or it might be in the chip ,,,, ________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 15:55:08 -0500 From: Harry Trafford Subject: Re: How to fix dull plastic lenses? Many thanks on the suggestions about bringing back the clarity to my dull lenses. I'll look for the Meguire 17 product and the other type again. I think the local NAPA was the only place I haven't looked yet. Has anyone tried toothpaste?(just asking). Coming up with some type of mechanical, but gentle means of doing the polishing will keep my hand and fingers from getting cramps. Yeah, I know not to get it hot enough to melt the plastic. ;-) Harry ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 03 Mar 2000 19:27:24 -0500 From: Randy Shelton Subject: Re: My turn.. 88 B II with intermittent Keith, Never seen a convertor come and go, but my brother's Bronco II did almost the same as yours, with a big difference/loss of gas mileage. His turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. It's on the fuel rail, and controlled with a vacuum line. His finally ruptured, and was sucking fuel through the vacuum system. Turn the switch on to pressurize the system, then disconnect the vacuum line and wait for fuel. If you see any, replace the regulator. If you don't, still suspect this, and when it acts up again, pull the vacuum line and check for fuel. Hope this helps, Randy At 07:23 PM 03/02/2000 -0800, you wrote: >This one's got me, an independent shop, and a Ford shop baffled. > >The vehicle: >'88 Bronco II; 2.9 L w/auto 170K miles. >Engine mechanically strong, 25K since rebuild, same on trans except 7K on |
