Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 03:50:17 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #235
Reply-To: fordtrucks
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest

fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, September 23 1997 Volume 01 : Number 235

Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: Flathead Help [Dan Wentz ]
BTU'S 'R' US ["Dave Walbeck" ]
RE: 351M Cam Timing [DC Beatty ]
RE: BTUs 'R' Us..! [DC Beatty ]
RE: heater controls??? [DC Beatty ]
Re: Flathead Help [Randall679]
Re: pumping oil - rear end [marko (marko maryniak)]
Re: pumping oil - rear end [marko (marko maryniak)]



Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 17:49:03 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

>Which manual did you check? I don't know of a 12v system that doesn't use
>some type of voltage dropping system for the run time ignition system(prior
>to computer ignitions that is). It may be a resistor or a resistance wire,
>but its there.

That would be the Ford F Series Shop Manual for 1949-50-51-52. This would,
of course, be using a 6 volt system. The diagram doesn't show a resistor
or anything unusual in the circuit.

I'm going on the assumption that the original poster has a 6v coil in the
12v system, with a volt drop wired in. The way he described his points and
plugs sound very "6v ignition" to me. Naturally, if he is going to install
a 12v coil he should use whatever resistor is appropriate--I just am
suspect of the one he has now.


1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page:


Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 18:29:32 PDT
From: "Dave Walbeck"
Subject: BTU'S 'R' US

I had this problem in my 73 F250 Highboy. It ended up being the
thermostat. When I installed it it slid down a little bit and to much
coolant was getting past it. Replaced it and the heater gets plenty hot.
Dave Complete and total Ford Nut
GMC Got Mechanic Coming



Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:49:48 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: 351M Cam Timing

In Pat Ganahl's book Ford Performance, page 84, there is a mention of For=
retarding cams: "One of the first things Ford did to meet smog
restrictions, beginning in '72, was to retard the timing on existing
camshafts." It has a picture of a multi-index crank (yes crank) sprocket.=

It has 6 different keyways in it. =

This is in regard to the Cleveland family of motors. =

Hope this helps,

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

Not a "wiz", just a devotee.

I don't know too many details about this cam retarding thing. I've been
told by professional mechanics that it is true and I have also read about=

it, so I believe it's true. What I don't know is how much and when. I
vaguely recall reading somewhere (years back) that cams were retarded abo=
2-4 degrees, but can't remember the source or specifics.

What I do know about M-block cams is that beginning in 1977, Ford changed=

the cam spec on the truck versions of these engines. Before '77 (and in
car engines through '79), the 351M used a lower lift cam than the 400. I=
'77, both engines (used in trucks) were fitted w/ the same cam that gave
0.250 at the lifter (0.433 at the valve) on both intake and exhaust lobes=
This was more lift than the cam used in car 400s (0.247 intake, 0.250


Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:49:51 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: BTUs 'R' Us..!

Yeah, I had forgotten about this one. My Maverick had a big hole in the t=
tank of the radiator. Being the cheapskate that I am I just ran with it
(who wants to put money into a 4 door Maverick???). Sure enough, when it
would get to a certain point, it would only blow cold air out of the
heater. =

Steve. I've been running my heater lately. It's all stock and it works
great. 1967 352. It gets to the point where I have to turn it off. Then
again, it hasn't gotten to -20 yet. =

There is something really strange goin' on there....

Good luck
DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

Gary Wrote: =

heater won't work since it won't circulate through the core. You can =

easily prove this to yourself buy lowering the radiator level a few =

inches below the top of the core and run the heater. The heater =

core is located at a horizontal height right at the top level of the =

radiator and is essentially gravity fed. In spite of having a pump =

the coolant still tends to seek it's own level.>>


Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 21:49:53 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: heater controls???

I used WD40 on mine. Hell, I use WD40 for everything. I should probably t=
something else someday...

Sometimes leaves and crap can get down in there and jam up those doors in=

the heater control box. Also, be careful not to break the little clamp
doohicky that clamps the cables down to the control unit and box etc. I
broke one of these once and had to go to 4 different junkyards to get a
decent one. PITA!!!

Good luck,
DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- -> heat controls???68 69?? 70??I've seen a 67 with knobs like the early
- -> broncos????My 68 has slides??Could my dash been swapped???

My '68 has slides. They're quite stiff. Has anyone tried a motorcycle
cable oiler or something? I'm always afraid I'm going to rip the
sliders out of the dash tugging on them.


Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 00:37:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Randall679
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

Even 12 volt systems use a 6 volt resistor for the points it stops them from
burning up so easy.

Is the black coating on the plugs a dry soot black, if so you have a lproblem
with the fuel mixture normally.

If it is a slimy wet black the you have a oil consumption problem.

If you have a 12 volt battery & coil & your points, cond. cap, rotor & wires
are in good condition I would look at one of the above for the problem




Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 23:49:46 -0700
From: marko (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: pumping oil - rear end

>when i went to empty my rear last time, i pulled the yoke off. this
>allowed much of the oil to drip down which i filtered thru 2 coffee filters
>into a can. i reused this oil. much of the rest of the oil that came out
>when i removed the third member i also filtered and reused. (there was
>less than 100 miles on this oil) the filtered coffee, oops oil, looked
>brand new.
>i used to fill the rear a pump that i got at my girlfreinds ice cream
>store. the pump is for ice cream toppings or such and pumped the 80 wt oil
>fine. it is a hand pump. i filled the rear in about 3 minutes with no
>mess. i am sure other kinds of pumps work. this worked better than the
>hose on the bottle spout deal i was using before. microwaving the oil
>seamed to help it pour easier though.

I'd hate to see what you did when you were in a jam for something to eat!!

marko in vancouver
71 f250 4x4


Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 23:52:00 -0700
From: marko (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: pumping oil - rear end

(there was
>less than 100 miles on this oil) the filtered coffee, oops oil, looked
>brand new.
It seems what you didn't re-use, somebody heated up and sold for coffee here....

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