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Return-Path: Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 23:19:34 -0700 From: Doug Neely Reply-To: Doug_Neely To: kpayne Subject: [Fwd: fordtrucks-digest V1 #218] Ken, just checked my mail (been busy) here's #218 if you haven't got it already Cheers, Doug Return-Path: owner-fordtrucks-digest Received: from listservice.net (listservice.net [192.41.45.94]) by zorro.bctel.ca (8.8.6/8.7.1) with ESMTP id DAA17176 for ; Tue, 16 Sep 1997 03:07:00 -0700 (PDT) Received: from localhost (listserv Received: by listservice.net (bulk_mailer v1.5); Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:00:48 -0600 Received: (listserv Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:00:48 -0600 (MDT) Message-Id: From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #218 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, September 16 1997 Volume 01 : Number 218 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: Need help finding dual master cylinder [Dan Wentz RE: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? [DC Beatty My new baby [reedg Re: Riddle me this!!!! ["George Shepherd" ] Re: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? [reedg 460 intake suggestions ["Mike & Evan" ] Bedliners ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ] Don on the Road ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ] Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS) ["Dale and Donna Carmine" Re: 460 intake suggestions [SARHOG RE: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss [marko Re: Seat Cover Sources. [David Neumayer ] Re: 460 intake suggestions [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:20:18 -0700 From: Dan Wentz Subject: Re: Need help finding dual master cylinder >I have a '53 F100 with basically stock mechanicals. I want to swap out >the single master cylinder for a dual master cylinder for safety >reasons. I would like to make as few changes as possible - is there a >replacement that would just bolt right in and all's I would need to do is >hook it up and bleed the brakes? Sacramento Vintage offers an adaptor that lets you use a 67-72 Mustang master cylinder. It costs $80 though. Also, the 67-72 were all disk/drum setups, but I think you could use an older master cylinder if you have drum/drum--should have the same bolt pattern...someone correct me if I'm wrong. ~Dan 1992 Ford Mustang LX 1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:04:19 -0400 From: DC Beatty Subject: RE: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? If the linkage is adjusted correctly (i.e. 1 is one, 2 is two, R is reverse, etc.) then you may want to check vacuum to the modulator. If it has good vacuum than the modulator can be adjusted. = If you pull the vacuum line off of the back of the modulator there is a little hollow shaft that sticks out of the hole the vac line came out of.= Inside the shaft is a screw adjustment. A real small thin standard screwdriver fits it. Back it out (counter-clockwise) one turn and check t= o see if third comes back. If not, try another turn, etc. = Usually after 2 or 3 turns, *something* in the shifting pattern changes, which means the shifting will either get less or more stupid. Hopefully i= t will change in your favor. = My FMX was doing the opposite when I got it on the road. It was skipping over 2nd--shifting too early. I fix it by messing with this adjustment. = Does anybody know if 3rd is operated by a band??? = Good luck. Let us know. = DC Beatty 1967 F100 352 1974 Maverick 302 Group: Doing a little road testing on my van over the weekend and after getting the right axles, gears and tires all installed, I believe it never makes it t= o third gear. Here is what I know: 77 C6 with transfer case in 2WD high, 3= 0" tires, 3.54 ratio, 460 engine. With the pedal depressed as if my grandmother was in the passenger seat (taking it really easy on the acceleration), I noticed the first to second gear shift occurring about 15mph (sorry, no tach yet), assume I should make it into third about 30-35mph??? but it never happens. Made it to about 45-50mph which major engine whine and no shift into third. Placed the transmission shift leve= r from drive into 2 and noticed the same lack-o-shift into third. Tried moving between D and 2 at various speeds and noticed no change in shift o= f any kind. After driving a few miles and with the engine at good normal operating temperature, smelled the trans. fluid on the dip stick and it looked reddish (not black or brown) and smelled the fluid (no burned smel= l noticed). Fluid level appeared to be in the normal fill range with the engine running, trans in park and pretty much level ground. This is my first serious experience with diagnosing auto trans problems, always been a manual guy. I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to the trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5" above the before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever arm with a small= circular knob at the end of the C that seems to move freely between two positions, always returning to the forward position if left untouched. There seems to be nothing connected to this C shaped lever. Has some spring or linkage fallen off this lever that just might be part of my lack-o-thi= rd gear problem? Is it something between the column linkage and this C shap= ed lever or is it between the gas pedal and the C lever (as my dad described= used to be a way to kick an old auto into the next gear based on gas peda= l depression)? If this C shaped level is just for looks, then is there something else I should be checking? I am scrounging around for books/repair manuals that= can help, but so far no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated, John bauerjf 96 F150, 302, daily driver 77 E250 4WD, 460, C6, custom van! +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ | Send posts to fordtrucks | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:13:35 +0000 From: reedg Subject: My new baby No, it's not a truck. I just wanted you guys to know just in case I can't get back to the list for awhile that my baby boy will be born friday morning(isn't it nice to know in advance). I have to go get him a toy ford truck before then. It also means that I have ONLY 16 more years to get that ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:34:54 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: Riddle me this!!!! Trucks work harder, one more quart of cooling oil. All heat is transferred from cam and crank to oil. Water cools head and block, oil cools internal parts. More oil, more cooling. - ---------- > From: George Schott > To: fordtrucks > Subject: Riddle me this!!!! > Date: Monday, September 15, 1997 6:33 PM > > O.K. Ford truck Guru's here's something I don't understand. I got a 302 > from a car to put into a truck everyone here said I needed to change the > oil pan so I ordered a pan for a 71 motor in a 69 f-100 2 wd. I got the > pan and it looks exactly the same as the one that is on the motor I > called the parts guy and said you screwed up my order he said no the car > holds 5 qts. the truck holds 6 qts. WHY? WHY does the truck hold 1 more > qt. of oil in the same motor? > > Duke's > Fine 69 > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:18:07 +0000 From: reedg Subject: Re: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? > From: "John F. Bauer III" > Subject: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? That C shaped lever is the kickdown. Which shouldn't cause it not to shift into third. Best thing to do is change the trans filter. While you have the pan off take the valve body out and clean the heck out of it. Make sure the linkage adjustments are correct. > Group: > > Doing a little road testing on my van over the weekend and after getting the > right axles, gears and tires all installed, I believe it never makes it to > third gear. Here is what I know: 77 C6 with transfer case in 2WD high, 30" > tires, 3.54 ratio, 460 engine. With the pedal depressed as if my > grandmother was in the passenger seat (taking it really easy on the > acceleration), I noticed the first to second gear shift occurring about > 15mph (sorry, no tach yet), assume I should make it into third about > 30-35mph??? but it never happens. Made it to about 45-50mph which major > engine whine and no shift into third. Placed the transmission shift lever > from drive into 2 and noticed the same lack-o-shift into third. Tried > moving between D and 2 at various speeds and noticed no change in shift of > any kind. After driving a few miles and with the engine at good normal > operating temperature, smelled the trans. fluid on the dip stick and it > looked reddish (not black or brown) and smelled the fluid (no burned smell > noticed). Fluid level appeared to be in the normal fill range with the > engine running, trans in park and pretty much level ground. > > This is my first serious experience with diagnosing auto trans problems, > always been a manual guy. > > I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to the > trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5" above the > before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever arm with a small > circular knob at the end of the C that seems to move freely between two > positions, always returning to the forward position if left untouched. > There seems to be nothing connected to this C shaped lever. Has some spring > or linkage fallen off this lever that just might be part of my lack-o-third > gear problem? Is it something between the column linkage and this C shaped > lever or is it between the gas pedal and the C lever (as my dad described > used to be a way to kick an old auto into the next gear based on gas pedal > depression)? > > If this C shaped level is just for looks, then is there something else I > should be checking? I am scrounging around for books/repair manuals that > can help, but so far no luck. > > Any help would be greatly appreciated, > John > bauerjf > > 96 F150, 302, daily driver > 77 E250 4WD, 460, C6, custom van! > > > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:44:45 -0500 From: "Mike & Evan" Subject: 460 intake suggestions Hi everyone! I don't post much to the list, but I read it every day. Its great, and I always learn something new. Maybe some of you 460 guys can help me out on this one. Which intake is best for a basically stock 460? It is going in my '75 F-250 4x4. Right now all I have are L&L headers, and a Edelbrock 750 carb. With stock heads and cam, should I go with a Performer, Performer RPM or a Wieland Stealth? The 460 is out of a mid '70's Lincoln. Or, would I be better off spending the money on something else instead? Like redoing the heads or a bigger cam? Any help is appreciated! Thanks in advance. Mike Vonhof yasky ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:21:00 -0500 From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" Subject: Bedliners Anyone still interested in spray on Bedliners should check out the posts on the 80-up list. dale c ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:21:50 -0500 From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" Subject: Don on the Road Congratulations Don! Good luck with the rest of your project. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:06:03 -0500 From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" Subject: Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS) Don wrote; > > Assuming the vacuum switch is a 235 degree switch...then vacuum would > normally flow from the carb spart port to the switch then on to the > distributor vacuum advance. If your engine got hotter than normal (>235 > degrees) the switch would send full manifold vacuum to the distributor > port..this would further advance your timing...increase rpms and thus > cool your engine back down to normal levels..(At least that's the theory > behind this setup). I'd have to go pull my Mityvac book out to see > exactly which port is which on the switch and if EGR is hooked up > there. Seems to me Ford used a separate vacuum switch, usually a two > port thermal vacuum switch to control the EGR at a certain temp. The > switches were color coded depending on what temp they kicked in. IMO, > you could hookup the distributor vacuum advance directly to the carb > spark port. Vacuum at the spark port should be at or near zero at > idle...don't believe it will get quite as high as manifold vacuum even > when it does peak with the throttle open. You normally don't want to > run direct manifold vacuum to the distributor advance. Depending on > your carb...if you have two ports the other port should be for the EGR > hookup. You normally will see vacuum at idle on this port. At wide > open throttle it should be near zero vacuum on the EGR port. EGR valve > therefore would close whe you hit wide open throttle. > > If you clean off the grease and dirt the vacuum switch on the thermostat > housing should be labeled. Something like 1,2,D,M > D=Distributor M=Manifold > > Do you have a vacuum gauge to check the ports and see how much vacuum is > be directed to the vacuum advance? > > Hope this helps..will post the Mityvac 4 port description if I can find > it in my workshop tomorrow. > > I would think the replacement vacuum switch wouldn't be terribly > expensive (I would guess around $15). > > Don > Allen, Texas > Don, I'll never doubt you again! I had never heard of using the vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum to increase engine idle speed for additional cooling. When I first read your post I thought you were full of sh**. But after a trip to the library to check it out, the description was exactly as you wrote. I learned something. Chiltons did have a good description of the 3 port PVS but nothing on the 4 port other than mentioning that it does exist. There is also a 2 port on this engine and it is between the carb EGR vacuum port(?) and the charcoal canister. The markings on the 4 port PVS are S, E, M, D. Is the spark port the one on the front of the carb? (Motorcraft 2150) EGR vacuum port on the pasenger side of the carb? The port description you mentioned would be very helpful. I hope you can find it. I do have a vacuum gauge, I got into this mess looking for a vacuum leak. The engine has been telling me it's lean for while, I finally got tired of it running bad and started checking into it. Like most things on this truck, what starts out as a simple problem turns into a can of worms. Never buy a truck from your brother-in-law! thanks for your help Don. later dale c ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:08:47 -0400 (EDT) From: SARHOG Subject: Re: 460 intake suggestions Subj: 460 intake suggestions Date:97-09-15 22:45:49 EDT From:yasky Sender:owner-fordtrucks Reply-to:fordtrucks To:fordtrucks Hi everyone! I don't post much to the list, but I read it every day. Its great, and I always learn something new. Maybe some of you 460 guys can help me out on this one. Which intake is best for a basically stock 460? It is going in my '75 F-250 4x4. Right now all I have are L&L headers, and a Edelbrock 750 carb. With stock heads and cam, should I go with a Performer, Performer RPM or a Wieland Stealth? The 460 is out of a mid '70's Lincoln. Or, would I be better off spending the money on something else instead? Like redoing the heads or a bigger cam? I have a 460, and am in need of a new intake too, so I feel your pain. For your application in a 4x4, you should go with the Performer. The Performer RPM doesn't make as much low-end torque, and I think the Stealth is a single plane, which is definitely the wrong way to go, unless you plan on doing mud racing or something. John Z. 67 F-100 460/C-6 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:18:16 -0700 From: marko Subject: RE: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss >1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the Pulleys >and >Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft. > I used a long Johnson bar and pipe over the end of that. I had the truck in gear with the emergency brake on (shudn't be a problem with an automatic trans in park). Use a 6 point socket of course and watch those knuckes. It's probably okay, but I don't know for sure that using an impact wrench on the crank is such a good idea..... marko in vancouver marko 71 f250 4x4 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:35:39 -0800 From: David Neumayer Subject: Re: Seat Cover Sources. > From: jack fleming > Subject: Seat Cover sources > Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:11:43 -0400 > sitting on 2x4s atop a welded base) and have purchased an original > bench seat - however it is in desperate need of new covering, spring > reconditioning, etc. I've only found one source so far; CI in > Mass.....I called them 3 weeks ago, they promised a catalogue, but > no word yet...... I purchased a seat cover for my 56 F100 bench seat from Johns F Fun Hundreds 1575 W. Broadway Anaheim, Ca 92802. I can't find a Phone # for them. I believe I paid $200 for both pieces in 1996. I have not installed them cause my truck is now in the last coat of primer. I think they look pretty good. Mine are red. I purchased over $2000.00 of parts from John's. They gave me good prices and paid all of the.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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