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Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:04:53 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #217
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Monday, September 15 1997 Volume 01 : Number 217



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Seat Cover sources ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: King Pins ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? ["John F. Bauer III"
RE: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? [Sleddog
Engine /trans swap in 68 [shoman p3.net]
Need help finding dual master cylinder [Bruce Dunne ]
ex. manifold/header for 352/390 [Antonio Gonella ]
Re: ex. manifold/header for 352/390 [John MacNamara ]
Re: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Re: Welding and fabrications ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss [Keith Srb ]
Re: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss [John MacNamara ]
Re: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss [Mike Schwall ]
Re: clutch bolt torque ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Riddle me this!!!! [Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)]
RE: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss [DC Beatty ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 07:37:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Seat Cover sources

> From: jack fleming
> Subject: Seat Cover sources
> Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:11:43 -0400

> sitting on 2x4s atop a welded base) and have purchased an original
> bench seat - however it is in desperate need of new covering, spring
> reconditioning, etc. I've only found one source so far; CI in
> Mass.....I called them 3 weeks ago, they promised a catalogue, but
> no word yet......

Have you contacted any reupolstery places yet? I wanted my 78 redone
and asked for quotes. The bottom was around $200 as I recall and the
back was a little cheaper with repairs and new foam etc.. I'm a
little rusty on the price right now and I think it was actually less
but I'm sure it was not more than that. I've never cared for seat
covers because they won't stay put and never seem to fit right. They
never give you enough extra material to actually wrap under the
edges. If I could find a GOOD seat cover I might be interested
myself but a GOOD one will probably cost almost as much as a
restoration?

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:13:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: King Pins

> Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 21:59:52 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: King Pins

> How much play is considered acceptable in king pins? I imagine that
> there needs to be some space in there for the grease to fill up.
>
> I ask because my truck seems to be wandering a bit. The truck sat

I've mentioned this before but don't mind blabbing so here we are
again :-) Wander is usually caused by binding, not looseness
although if certain parts are loose enough that will cause wandering
as well since it will also undo the alignment. If the alignment is
good but, say, the king pins are a bit loose and everything else is
fairly tight it shouldn't wander unless the king pins are bound up
with dried grease. If it's been sitting you should use some heat to
soften the grease (just enough to soften it, not make it run) and
pump some fresh grease in til it runs out clean. BTW, the pin is
held in the "I" beam and the bushings are in the spindle yoke so heat
the top and bottom of the yoke, again being carefull not to over do
it. Clean up the mess and try it out. Give it a day or two to work
all the tight spots out. If that doesn't free it up so the steering
geometry can self center then maybe the pins need more attention.

The steering box CAN cause wander if it's loose enough but with old
style drag link steering a small amount of play actually helps
prevent wander since it keeps you from influencing the line with
small movements or when hitting bumps etc.. The steering is designed
to center itself so if properly aligned should automatically go in a
straight line with no steering input. If it doesn't then it's not
properly aligned or something is preventing it from finding center
which usually means binding, not looseness (but not always as I
said).

Many people don't realize how much wide tires on crowned roads can
influence the handling and cause wander even when everything
mechanical is perfect. This is where having a good alignment
mechanic comes in handy. Explain what kind of roads you drive on
most of the time and which way it wants to pull and he can "adjust"
the spec to suit your driving patterns. Keep in mind that when you
get on to different surfaces it will have different handling
characteristics with wide tires especially. I had an XR7 Cougar once
that was checked out and found to be right on but it pulled badly on
crowned secondary roads with wide gator backs on it. The Goodrich
replacement tires were not nearly so bad.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:26:48 -0400
From: "John F. Bauer III"
Subject: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

Group:

Doing a little road testing on my van over the weekend and after getting the
right axles, gears and tires all installed, I believe it never makes it to
third gear. Here is what I know: 77 C6 with transfer case in 2WD high, 30"
tires, 3.54 ratio, 460 engine. With the pedal depressed as if my
grandmother was in the passenger seat (taking it really easy on the
acceleration), I noticed the first to second gear shift occurring about
15mph (sorry, no tach yet), assume I should make it into third about
30-35mph??? but it never happens. Made it to about 45-50mph which major
engine whine and no shift into third. Placed the transmission shift lever
from drive into 2 and noticed the same lack-o-shift into third. Tried
moving between D and 2 at various speeds and noticed no change in shift of
any kind. After driving a few miles and with the engine at good normal
operating temperature, smelled the trans. fluid on the dip stick and it
looked reddish (not black or brown) and smelled the fluid (no burned smell
noticed). Fluid level appeared to be in the normal fill range with the
engine running, trans in park and pretty much level ground.

This is my first serious experience with diagnosing auto trans problems,
always been a manual guy.

I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to the
trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5" above the
before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever arm with a small
circular knob at the end of the C that seems to move freely between two
positions, always returning to the forward position if left untouched.
There seems to be nothing connected to this C shaped lever. Has some spring
or linkage fallen off this lever that just might be part of my lack-o-third
gear problem? Is it something between the column linkage and this C shaped
lever or is it between the gas pedal and the C lever (as my dad described
used to be a way to kick an old auto into the next gear based on gas pedal
depression)?

If this C shaped level is just for looks, then is there something else I
should be checking? I am scrounging around for books/repair manuals that
can help, but so far no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

96 F150, 302, daily driver
77 E250 4WD, 460, C6, custom van!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:54:08 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

the c shaped lever may be kickdown, i am not sure as i don't use one. but,
all 3 gears are changed through the same shaft on the tranny. check the
linkage - does it move through all positions by hand ? (p-n-r-d-2-1)
then check to see if it moves thru using the shifter. if it is not a
linkage problem then it is possible that it is as minor as a loose bolt
inside, or maybe something worse, but hopefully it is linkage adjustment.

sleddog

- ----------
From: John F. Bauer III[SMTP:bauerjf ix.netcom.com]
Sent: Monday, September 15, 1997 10:26 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

Group:

Doing a little road testing on my van over the weekend and after getting
the
right axles, gears and tires all installed, I believe it never makes it to
third gear. Here is what I know: 77 C6 with transfer case in 2WD high, 30"
tires, 3.54 ratio, 460 engine. With the pedal depressed as if my
grandmother was in the passenger seat (taking it really easy on the
acceleration), I noticed the first to second gear shift occurring about
15mph (sorry, no tach yet), assume I should make it into third about
30-35mph??? but it never happens. Made it to about 45-50mph which major
engine whine and no shift into third. Placed the transmission shift lever
from drive into 2 and noticed the same lack-o-shift into third. Tried
moving between D and 2 at various speeds and noticed no change in shift of
any kind. After driving a few miles and with the engine at good normal
operating temperature, smelled the trans. fluid on the dip stick and it
looked reddish (not black or brown) and smelled the fluid (no burned smell
noticed). Fluid level appeared to be in the normal fill range with the
engine running, trans in park and pretty much level ground.

This is my first serious experience with diagnosing auto trans problems,
always been a manual guy.

I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to the
trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5" above the
before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever arm with a small
circular knob at the end of the C that seems to move freely between two
positions, always returning to the forward position if left untouched.
There seems to be nothing connected to this C shaped lever. Has some
spring
or linkage fallen off this lever that just might be part of my lack-o-third
gear problem? Is it something between the column linkage and this C shaped
lever or is it between the gas pedal and the C lever (as my dad described
used to be a way to kick an old auto into the next gear based on gas pedal
depression)?

If this C shaped level is just for looks, then is there something else I
should be checking? I am scrounging around for books/repair manuals that
can help, but so far no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

96 F150, 302, daily driver
77 E250 4WD, 460, C6, custom van!









+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:53:09 -0400
From: shoman p3.net
Subject: Engine /trans swap in 68

Group,
Havingthis 302 in my f-100 I was wondering what all is needed in
swapping in a 390 in place of the 302...I have a 4 speed(granny 1st)
T-18??I assume..Are the bell housings swapabale or do i need
to find a big block trans and transfer case..
Joe
68 f-100 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:42:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: Bruce Dunne
Subject: Need help finding dual master cylinder

Hello All:

I have a '53 F100 with basically stock mechanicals. I want to swap out
the single master cylinder for a dual master cylinder for safety
reasons. I would like to make as few changes as possible - is there a
replacement that would just bolt right in and all's I would need to do is
hook it up and bleed the brakes?

Any info would be welcome.

Thanks!

dunne tellabs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:58:52 -0800
From: Antonio Gonella
Subject: ex. manifold/header for 352/390

Hello All,
I have a 59 Ranchero with a 352. Eventually a 390 will replace it, and I was
wondering if there is/was a performance exhaust manifold available (from
factory, maybe orig. fitted to Hi-Po 390's) that will fit both motors (I
think they are the same besides displacement). A header would be fine but I
cant find one. Does
anyone make a "block hugger" for FE's?.
Thanks, Antonio.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:07:20 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: ex. manifold/header for 352/390

Antonio Gonella wrote:
>
> Hello All,
> I have a 59 Ranchero with a 352. Eventually a 390 will replace it, and I was
> wondering if there is/was a performance exhaust manifold available (from
> factory, maybe orig. fitted to Hi-Po 390's) that will fit both motors (I
> think they are the same besides displacement). A header would be fine but I
> cant find one. Does
> anyone make a "block hugger" for FE's?.
> Thanks, Antonio.
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+
Antonio: I think you are kooking for the 390GT exhaust manifolds off a
Mustang or Fairlane. The part number would be either C6(7)xx-9430/31-A
or something close to that.

Thanks
John

78 F2250 4x4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:35:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 10:26:48 -0400
> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

> I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to
> the trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5"
> above the before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever
> arm with a small circular knob at the end of the C that seems to

Shift into high relys on three things, oil level, the kick down lever
which you describe above and the modulator which has the vac line
going to it. Make sure the vac is hooked to the modulator and get a
kick down lever between the carb linkage and lever on the
transmission if you want to be able to jump easily into passing gear.
I don't think the kick down would prevent an upshift unless the
spring inside the tranny was bad so my guess is the modulator isn't
working for some reason. The modulator and governor will force a
down shift at fairly high speeds even without the kick down when you
floor it anyway so that is optional IMHO. It does help determine
when it shifts back into high tho (later with the kick down installed
and sooner down shift as well).


The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 14:44:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Welding and fabrications

> Date: Fri, 12 Sep 1997 00:01:43 -0500
> From: "Donald R. Screen"
> Subject: Welding and fabrications

> 1. What's the heaviest material you can weld with one of those SP100
> Lincoln wire feed welders? Can you safely do frame welding with it?
> Or just sheetmetal type repairs? What size equipment do you need to
> safely do chassis/frame welding?

I gather from the model name it's rated for 100 amps at 20 % duty
which would be adequate for frame welding with proper precautions and
prep. Wire feed welders don't like rust or dirt of any kind and need
proper cleaning and grinding prior to welding or you will have many
inclusions which can't be floated out of the weld as a stick can or
the higher temps of a larger machine might give you. IOW, carefull
prep and technique will overcome the machine size issues up to and
including frame size projects.

> 2. Does anyone out there fabricate their own brackets etc? What
> thickness of steel etc do you use for brackets? Is a metal brake
> essential for this type of operation? What about cutting the metal

What type of brackets do you mean? Typical brackets for springs or
shocks wouldn't require a break but a nice large bench vise would be
awful handy along with a torch for heating and bending and shaping.
An anvil comes in handy too if you make odd shaped ones etc.. I also
have a steel work bench made of 9/16 plate on 2" pipe legs with 1890
vintage farm implement wheels to roll it around outside on and
reinforced with 14 x 2.5" "U" chanel welded length ways underneath.
I have an old blacksmith vise mounted on it which is made of steel
and can take a bunch of pounding and welding and grinding etc. but I
was into blacksmithing at one point and welding for a living at
another point (till I got back to Ford) so most people won't have the
ambition or need to have all this junk cluttering up their garage but
it sure is nice to just go out there and do what ever I want, when
ever I want. Now if I just had a good BridgePort and Monarch and
Brown and Sharp 618 I'd really be ready for bear! :-)

I torch everything but a cutt off saw would be nice on those angle
iron and pipe projects, along with a bender from Harbor Freight.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:37:00 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss

I do not have access to an air compressor or air impact wrench so:


1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the Pulleys and
Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft.

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:44:14 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> I do not have access to an air compressor or air impact wrench so:
>
> 1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the Pulleys and
> Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft.
>
> Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
> Mesa, AZ
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
> 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

Keith: Since you don't have an impact wrench, your next best hope is a
breaker bar with a long pipe attached to it.

Thanks!
John MacNamara

78 F250 4x4 Supercab
67 GT500
66 Corvette

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 16:32:43 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss

At 01:37 PM 9/15/97 -0700, you wrote:
>I do not have access to an air compressor or air impact wrench so:
>
>
>1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the Pulleys
and
>Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft.

Manual or Automatic trans? For manual put it in gear with the parking
brake on, use a 1/2" drive ratchet with proper socket/extensions. Turn the
motor till the drivetrain gets tight and turn away (counter clock). For
automatic, drop the starter and get a helper to jab a large screwdriver
into the teeth to prevent the engine from turning.

What would work best in your case is an electric 1/2" drive impact wrench,
since you don't have an air compressor. You can find them at your local
hardware store and Sears.

Mike

_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intix.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:06:07 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: clutch bolt torque

> From: "Mark Mech"
> Subject: clutch bolt torque
> Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 17:58:44 -0700

> What should I torque clutch bolts to?

Don't know if this got answered yet but there is a standard torque
for each size bolt so if you know the size and they are grade 8 or
OEM bolts many manuals have a list somewhere with the standard
torques based on the strength of the bolt which is controlled by it's
size and grade. I don't have a list in front of me so I can only
guess. 5/16 manifold bolts are generally around 20#, 3/8 25 - 35#
and so on. Fine thread and coarse thread make a difference as well.
your clutch bolts are probably fine thread, 3/8 or 5/16 I'd guess.
7/16 crank shaft flywheel bolts go around 45# but they are fine
thread and short so less likely to twist off at that torque. On
things that don't warp or have to be balanced you can get away with
tightening them by feel but be careful, small bolts break easily.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:27:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss
> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 13:37:00 -0700

> I do not have access to an air compressor or air impact wrench so:
>
>
> 1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the
> Pulleys and Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft.

They usually come right out but to keep the engine from turning while
torqeing on them place the wrench handle or ratchet handle in a line
across the center of the crank so the handle is lying across the
nose of the crank with the socket opposit from your hand with the
crank in between. It gives the wrench more mechanical advantage
against the crank with less rotational moment so the crank stays put,
more or less :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:33:17 -0400
From: Schottsweb webtv.net (George Schott)
Subject: Riddle me this!!!!

O.K. Ford truck Guru's here's something I don't understand. I got a 302
from a car to put into a truck everyone here said I needed to change the
oil pan so I ordered a pan for a 71 motor in a 69 f-100 2 wd. I got the
pan and it looks exactly the same as the one that is on the motor I
called the parts guy and said you screwed up my order he said no the car
holds 5 qts. the truck holds 6 qts. WHY? WHY does the truck hold 1 more
qt. of oil in the same motor?

Duke's
Fine 69

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:04:21 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss

Can you get hold of an electric impact? You may be able to rent one, but
sometimes they wander away so the rental folks don't stock them. I used a=
n
electric for pulleys etc. before.

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

I do not have access to an air compressor or air impact wrench so:


1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the Pulleys=

and =

Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft.

Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net....

---

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