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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:44:56 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #208
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, September 10 1997 Volume 01 : Number 208



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Morons at Parts Counters ["Don & Teresa Neighbors" ]
re: Attachments ["Payne, Kenneth" ]
Re: Morons at Parts Counters ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: tranny..... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Timing light [Sleddog ]
RE: Cleaning fluid soaked brake shoes? [Sleddog ]
Re: Screwed My axle HELP!! More info ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Another try on the attachments thing [Randy Collins ]
Mail? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Gauge needles [Tom Hogan ]
tranny again... [SLaG ]
Re: Mail? [BigDogF250 aol.com]
Truck for sale in SC Area [TIDANGO aol.com]
Re: tranny..... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Attachment test [SARHOG aol.com]
2WD to 4WD Conversion [Keith Srb ]
Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights [Keith Srb
Re: Attachment test [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights [marko helix.net (ma]
Re: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights ["Gary, 78 BBB"
Truck Clubs/Magazines [schrozak idt.net (Chuck Schroeder)]
RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion [Keith Srb ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 06:42:43 -0400
From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
Subject: Morons at Parts Counters

Boy, do I sympathize with anybody that has to endure the boneheads that
sometimes are our only hope of finding the right part. I once argued long
and strenuously with a parts man at a (Not Ford) dealership about the
proper identity of the turn signal switch I had just removed in their
parking lot. The lout behind the counter contended it was a park-neutral
switch and it would take ten days to get it in.
At the end of those ten days I returned to the dealership and found that
I'd waited that time for a - you guessed it! - park-neutral switch.
Another, much more intelligent actual human being was behind the counter,
and he immediately found they had the proper part in stock. AAARRGGHH!!
I notice I'm not getting any feedback on a 12 volt conversion on my '54
F-250. Surely somebody has done this? I still would rather use all Ford
parts. The idea of using the GM type one-wire alternator just doesn't set
right, somehow.

Don Neighbors

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:58:09 -0400
From: "Payne, Kenneth"
Subject: re: Attachments

Randy,
It looks like (at least from here) that the attachment
problem is solved. What email software are you using
and what did you do to solve it? Your hard work may
help save others time in the future.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:16:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Morons at Parts Counters

> From: "Don & Teresa Neighbors"
> Subject: Morons at Parts Counters
> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 06:42:43 -0400

> I notice I'm not getting any feedback on a 12 volt conversion on my
> '54
> F-250. Surely somebody has done this? I still would rather use all
> Ford parts. The idea of using the GM type one-wire alternator just
> doesn't set right, somehow.

I believe Ford has some one wire designs as well but they are made
by Mitsubishi IINM. Take a look in some newer haynes manuals at your
local parts house and see what the schematics look like. Seems to me
you just bolt in the alternator, hook up the regulator, add a 12 v
battery and cross your fingers? (just kidding :-)) The alternator,
regulator and battery on older 12v systems are independent from the
rest of the system. (new cars have all kinds of stuff hooked into the
alternator that have nothing to do with charging) In a 54 the only
things likely to complain are the dash gauges and lights, radio, head
lights etc.. and maybe the heater fan motor. The starter will handle
the 12 v as long as you don't crank too long on it but it's still a
good idea to change that out too I guess.

Seems to me you could run a few ballast resistors in parallel (to
handle the amperage) from the battery to the cab electrical and
ignition systems (not the starter!) without changing anything but
maybe the starter. All you need to do is get roughly 6 volts to the
components that need it, right?

Don't have a 54, just throwing out some ideas :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:19:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: tranny.....

> Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:15:18 -0500
> From: SLaG
> Subject: tranny.....

> It's about time for a new tranny ...and i have a few questions such
> as.... What kind? Do you have to take the engine out ....or can you
> get the tranny out from the bottom?

You guys with the trannys, give us some details, type and model,
engine, vehicle etc. so we can help :-)

What do you want it to do for you? What kind of driving are you
planning?

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:10:24 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Timing light

i don't think i will get sunpro stuff anymore. not that the timing light
doesn't work well, it does, but it just seema like a cheaply made tool.
wish i knew how accurate it is!
sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 9:48 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: RE: Timing light

> From: Kevin Kemmerer
> Subject: RE: Timing light
> Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:17:49 -0400

> i have a sunpro adjustable timing light. it just has a dial on the

I got a sunpro vac gauge and the needle wobbles about 4 lbs if you
shake it even gently so I just use it as a "sort of" reference. I
don't think I will be buying any more sunpro stuff :-( The autometer
version would have been about $5 more but I would have to wait and I
wanted it right now so I took a chance.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
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+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:21:36 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Cleaning fluid soaked brake shoes?

sounds like it is clean, brakeclean is an excellent cleaner. did you clean the other side equally well?

sleddog


- ----------
From: JRFiero aol.com[SMTP:JRFiero aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 5:53 PM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Cleaning fluid soaked brake shoes?

I replaced the front brake cylinders on my '51 recently, and one side was
soaking with brake fluid mixed with a little bearing grease. I sat the shoes
(nearly new it appears, just arced nicely to the drums) under the parts
cleaner stream while I cleaned everything up, then sprayed them liberally
with BrakeClean (sp?). I still get a little grabbing on that side first
thing in the morning, and expect I didn't get them clean enough.
Besides loosening the death grip on my wallet and springing for some new
shoes, any ideas on completing my mission?





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:38:24 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Screwed My axle HELP!! More info

> From: "Brett McCoy"
> Subject: Re: Screwed My axle HELP!! More info
> Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:59:19 -0500

> A little more information on my axle problem. This is a full
> floater axle so the spindle, or what ever you call it on the full
> floater, is not removable. This is part of the axle housing. The

Haven't had a floater in a while but I thought the spindle bolted on
a flange on the housing? Have you tried heating the race to a dull
red (not too much) and tapping it to see if it will move? If it's
really burned in it could have worn a groove and melted the race to
fit so it's now smaller than the surrounding spindle and will have to
be cut off. As far as the threads and the race fitting over it,
seems like you could give it a shove or tap with a pipe or socket
against the race or even a carfully positioned punch to get past the
high spot? (gently working it on by tapping with a light hammer and
punch? (don't miss!))

BTW, don't do this till the inner race is fixed and the hub is on
ready to be installed or you may have trouble getting it back off
without damaging it. Once it's on just figure on replacing
the housing next time or using a slide hammer to get it back off :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 08:35:25 -0600
From: Randy Collins
Subject: Another try on the attachments thing

To all:

Looks like the last post worked. How about this one. Is there an
attachment this time?

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6

Randy,
It looks like (at least from here) that the attachment problem is solved.
What email software are you using and what did you do to solve it? Your
hard work may help save others time in the future.
Ken


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 11:06:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Mail?

If this gets out would someone please return a smiley :-)
All my bronco mail is getting bounced?

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 09:40:26 -0700
From: Tom Hogan
Subject: Gauge needles

Quick CHEAP trick for anyone restoring old Ford trucks out there. The
appearance of the needles on the gauges can be refreshed using Testors
paint for plastic model cars. The needles on my 76 were badly faded and
I touched them up with Flourescent Red (A PERFECT MATCH!!). I used
aluminum foil to mask the gauge face and hit them with a small model
brush. If someone was really careful with the brush they might get away
without masking the face. Important tip -- DO NOT touch the face of the
gauge. It seems that Ford used some sort of phosphorescent paint for
the numbers and it WILL smear (experience by Murphy). I was able to
clean it up but it would be easier not to touch the face. This is why I
suggested the foil it worked well to block the face and a little piece
masked off the center of the speedo needle. Whatever you do don't use
masking tape!! If the face smeared when I accidentally touched it I
imagine that tape would remove the numbers completely.
Any way it was easier than I may have made it sound here and my gauges
look really nice (at least until I get around to installing a full set
of VDOs ;0) ).

TTFN
Tom H
76 Super Cab 390 FE

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 12:19:14 -0500
From: SLaG
Subject: tranny again...

oops...it's an automatic...forgot to mention that one....
rasberry aaaa.net
- --


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:27:40 -0400 (EDT)
From: BigDogF250 aol.com
Subject: Re: Mail?

:-) It got through

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:06:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: TIDANGO aol.com
Subject: Truck for sale in SC Area

hey Guys,

I'm from the Greenville area of SC, and I'm looking at selling an all
original, non-restored 1956 f-100. It's in decent condition, and the
original 292 V-8 engine actualy still runs. I was actualy driving this
puppy around town. It's not much to look at, but it has potential. I'm
looking for about $800. It has a small back window. Let me know if you are
interested.

Tim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:17:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: tranny.....

> Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:15:18 -0500
> From: SLaG
> Subject: tranny.....

> It's about time for a new tranny ...and i have a few questions such
> as.... What kind? Do you have to take the engine out ....or can you
> get the tranny out from the bottom?

Stick with the C-4 if it has one or get a small block C-6 but the
lengths may be different so the drive shaft would have to be
modified in that case. If it has the FMX, trade it in on a C-4 or
C-6, the extra work will be worth it IMHO.

You can work under the truck with a transmission jack and it does
come out the bottom. Modern big blocks have two bolts at the top
that are hard to get in some applications but the 302 should be
pretty easy. When you put it back in make yourself some screw in
dowels from a couple of 3" bolts the size of the ones in the
transmission flange to use as locators when slipping it back in so
the input shaft etc. lines up and you don't need as many hands that
way. Cut the heads off and round the ends on a bench grinder so they
have a nice lead on them and you can screw them into the rear of the
block with your fingers, one on each side.

> what's the advantage/disadvantage to rebuilding the tranny as
> opposed to just getting a whole new one??

The advantage is the experience and cost (unless it's an FMX) if you
can handle the problems associated with it, clean, clean, clean! And
can get a good manual with pictures outlining the steps. Strip the
case, take it to a shop for thorough cleaning and work in a clean
area on a clean bench with clean hands and you will have lots of fun
learning about your trasnmission, otherwise you will be better off
to get a rebuilt one.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 15:50:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: SARHOG aol.com
Subject: Re: Attachment test

>Ford Folks,

>This is another test to see if I have gotten rid of the attachments yet.

>If anyone can read this maybe you could post a reply to JRFiero aol.com
>about removing paint from the old rubber hose gasket. I think that he will
>find that M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) will work nicely for this. M.E.K.
>can be purchased at your local paint store. It might not be available to
>folks living in California.

>Randy Collins
>Boise, Idaho
>rcollins micron.net

I just got this..... with no attachments.

John Z.
67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:06:35 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

- -----Original Message-----
From:Dave Walbeck [SMTP:davewalbeck hotmail.com]
Sent:Tuesday, September 09, 1997 7:37 PM
To:herbie netvalue.net
Subject:2wd to 4wd

You are better off finding a 4x4 and swapping your body onto it. Much cheaper
and easier.

Dave

______________________________________________________


To me, IMHO, changing the body over to a four wheel drive chassis is a waste of
a good two wheel drive chassis. Plus I would feel a lot more comfortable if I
could use as many of the parts from the 74 F250 that I own now. At least that
way I have a better feeling of what I have to begin with, if you follow what I
mean. Besides, the 74 is in great shape for it's age, but I still would like
to do a frame up restoration on it. if I already have everything off the
frame, it shouldn't take that much longer to put the 4 wheel drive pieces on my
frame.

I also have a 66 F100 that I am sure could use some of the parts off of the 74
F250

Besides, god willing, time is one thing I have plenty of.

Next time I guess I will be a little more detailed about what I want to do.

TTFN

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:12:23 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights

Can I replace my old style headlights in my 66 & 74, with halogen headlights?
If so do I need to make any modifications to the truck, Alternator, Wiring
Harness, Headlight Bucket, Etc?

TTFN

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 13:04:41 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Attachment test

>>Randy Collins
>>Boise, Idaho
>>rcollins micron.net
>
>I just got this..... with no attachments.
>
>John Z.
>67 F-100 460/C-6

me too!

** **


\
\
\
\
____\


________________________

------------------------
________________________


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 16:17:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: 2WD to 4WD Conversion
> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:06:35 -0700

> To me, IMHO, changing the body over to a four wheel drive chassis is
> a waste of a good two wheel drive chassis. Plus I would feel a lot
> more comfortable if I could use as many of the parts from the 74
> F250 that I own now. At least that way I have a better feeling of

So you don't want the 4wd stuff just stuff off the 4wd that pertains
to the 2wd right? What a waste of a perfectly good 4 wheeler :-) I
guess we all misunderstood what you were trying to do :-) If you are
bolting heavier axles and springs etc. in place of the originals it
should be a direct swap of the parts which are pertainent to the 2wd
application and you're right if you do a body off restoration that's
the time to do it for sure. I want to do that to my bronco but it's
my daily driver right now so that has to wait :-(

So many plans, so little time (and money) :-(

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 13:15:46 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights

>Can I replace my old style headlights in my 66 & 74, with halogen headlights?
>If so do I need to make any modifications to the truck, Alternator, Wiring
>Harness, Headlight Bucket, Etc?
>
>TTFN

Keith:

First of all, TT doesn't sound like something a trucker usually would say!
Maybe BB, or 10-4, or something (molater is reserved for one list member I
think).

Anyway, I have bosch dual-filament, removable-bulb halogen headlights in my
truck which are MUCH better than stock. They should fit right on and plug
right in, without any problems. Three things, though:

1., you may wish to buy an electronic regulator for your truck rather than
the old point-type electromechanical one. They work better and don't blink.
They have the same plug and the same size housing, just are not as tall (no
coil to accommodate). And they're cheap, available even at Wal-Mart.

2. make sure your radiator support is well-grounded, as are the headlight
plugs. Ford used these PUNY wires from the headlight plugs to the rad
support for grounds, which are not the greatest.

3. note that the lens on these type of Halogen lights, (Bosch, Hella, IPF)
is pretty much flat. This unfortunately means that when hit by a stone they
tend to crack pretty easy. So if you go off roading you may wish to get
those clear plastic bubble-guards (my experience with the wire mesh ones is
that a pointy rock will find its way thru and bust your light anyway).

hope this is enlightening



marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 16:35:04 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights
> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:12:23 -0700

> Can I replace my old style headlights in my 66 & 74, with halogen
> headlights? If so do I need to make any modifications to the truck,
> Alternator, Wiring Harness, Headlight Bucket, Etc?

If the 66 are round or the standard, what, 4001 rectangular I think
they just pop in. I've used them in my 78 PU and seen the
rectangular ones for the old 66 custom I had as well so I'm sure it's
a direct replacement. Just remember that hallogen bulbs do not like
any dirt or oil or finger prints on the lense due to heat being
unevenly distributed which causes them to crack. Wipe them off with
paper towels and handle them with paper towels while installing them.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 16:44:14 -0400
From: schrozak idt.net (Chuck Schroeder)
Subject: Truck Clubs/Magazines

Since I'm new here I don't know if this info has been passed around, so
please bear with me:

I belong to two truck clubs that are worth mentioning:

The Antique Truck Historical Society (www.aths.org)
Slick bi-monthly magazine "Wheels of Time" with stories on trucking history
and a great "Shoppers Column"
$25 to join - includes magazine. Plus $10 for the local chapter
Large annual meeting/show held in different parts of the country
Local chapters also have annual shows


The Antique Truck Club of America
Mid-Atlantic & Northeastern areas only (they might let you start your own local)
UNslick magazine "Double Clutch"
$25 to join
Possibly the best truck show in the Northeast at Macungie, PA every June

The stories in these mags lean toward medium-duty/heavy trucks and
construction equipment. But meetings are for anyone with any kind of
truck. Or people looking for a truck. Or might have had a truck but can't
remember... In my area the avg. age is about 70. GREAT guys - many are
walking shop/parts manuals.

Chuck Schroeder
64 F600 Stake Dump

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:49:18 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

- -----Original Message-----
From:Gary, 78 BBB [SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent:Wednesday, September 10, 1997 9:17 AM
To:fordtrucks listservice.net
Subject:Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: 2WD to 4WD Conversion
> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:06:35 -0700

> To me, IMHO, changing the body over to a four wheel drive chassis is a waste
of a good two wheel >drive chassis. Plus I would feel a lot more comfortable
if I could use as many of the parts from the >74 F250 that I own now. At
least that way I have a better feeling of

>So you don't want the 4wd stuff just stuff off the 4wd that pertains to the
2wd right? What a waste >of a perfectly good 4 wheeler :-) I guess we all
misunderstood what you were trying to do :-) If you >are bolting heavier
axles and springs etc. in place of the originals it should be a direct swap of
the >parts which are pertinent to the 2wd application and you're right if you
do a body off restoration >that's the time to do it for sure. I want to do
that to my bronco but it's my daily driver right now so >that has to wait :-(

>So many plans, so little time (and money) :-(

>The swift of foot and slow of wit
>have more off road experiences

>-- Gary --


Lets try this again. I would like to find a 4X4 that has been rolled, or
totaled in some way and is sitting in a wrecking yard. I am would like to take
all of the 4x4 parts, Front Axle, Rear Axle , Driveshafts, Transfer Case,....

---

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