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Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 22:45:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #204
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Monday, September 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 204



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion [Don Grossman ]
Re: Spark Plugs ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Timing light ["Dave Resch"]
Re: pilot bearing update [Don Grossman ]
Re: Spray on Bedliners ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: parts chimps ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Flathead [billjhs ]
Re: Prices For New in '64-65? [bbprice ]
[none] ["Kelly C. Mathiason" ]
Screwed My axle HELP!! ["Brett McCoy" ]
Resistor Wire [rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)]
Re: "tree forks" ranting ["Donald R. Screen" ]
RE: Resistor Wire [Tim Baker ]
RE: mime? attachments? [Randy Collins ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 15:17:37 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> If I could find a 74 4X4 Donor Truck, could I remove the Axles, Drives Shafts,
> Transfer Case, Transmission and related hardware, would I be able to bolt them
> onto my 74 2WD?
>
> TTFN
>
> Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
> Mesa, AZ

If you are going to take all the time to do this you might want to
consider finding a newer truck 78-79 and swaping the bodies. It will
take you about a 1/4 less time and extra work. Going with a newer donor
you could get a heavier front axle and disk brakes. The 3/4 2x used
coils in front and the 4x used leaf springs. You would have to remove
the front leaves and reattach to the truck. Or find a 1/2 ton coil
spring frontend and add 3/4 ton hubs to the alxe. The cab can come off
real easy. Six bolts, unplug a couple of wires, remove the master
cylinder from firewall,( don't even have to crack open the brake lines)
remove radiator, eBrake cable, and maybe the clutch linkage. Drop your
body on the new frame, which you have just cleaned and repainted, hook
everything back up and away you go.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:19:05 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs

The spark plug indexers I have seen actually cut the threads on the plug to
change its electrode alignment in the head by about 90-135 degrees. The
idea is you line up the open space between center and side electrode to
point to the area thought to be most advantageous for firing (usually
toward the intake valve). The way they work is you mark the plug on the
insulator and screw it into the head. Look at how many degrees off it is,
then take it out, cut the threads the right amount, screw it back in and
... voila!

The cheaper way is to use indexing washers that sit between the head and
plug. Various thickness washers change the plug's orientation different
amounts. The main problem w/ indexing washers is that they sometimes stick
to the head tighter than the headband on a parts counter man's hat, and you
wind up adding even more washers next tune up. :-(

Hi-po motorheads I know tell me that indexing plugs is a waste anywhere
under 6000 RPM. I tried it once w/ the washers, and aside from quadrupling
the time it takes to do a plug change tune up, I didn't notice any
difference in performance.

A stock car racer tip I once read about is trimming back the side electrode
so it doesn't completely cover the center electrode. Same (or equivalent)
theory as the Splitfire plugs. Diagonal cutters, about 15 seconds per
plug, and a lot cheaper than $5 apiece for Splitfires. Seemed to give a
little better power passing on hills (seat o' the pants impression), but it
reduced the plug life by more than half.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:33:54 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Timing light

I think the way the adjustable timing light works is that it reads the
engine's RPM and advances or delays the flash by a time interval calculated
from the RPM. (RPM x 360 = degrees of rotation per minute / 60 = degrees
per second, etc.) At any rate, the actual flash would be delayed by at
least one revolution to allow for advance.

The ones I have seen also have a display on the back (facing you when the
strobe is pointed away) that shows tach RPM, timing offset, and some show
dwell degrees. Below the display is a keypad where you punch in the degree
offset you want. With the tach readout, they're really nice for plotting
advance curves at specified RPMs. Unfortunately, the cheapest ones I've
seen cost about $100.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 15:37:30 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: pilot bearing update

Dave Resch wrote:
When I had to replace the diff
> cover gasket on the Dana 60 in my F250, it was pretty frustrating to tell
> them what I wanted and have them ask what vehicle it was for. My ranting
> to the effect that a Dana 60 was a Dana 60, regardless of what vehicle it
> was mounted in was only slightly gratifying to me.

Been there, Done that. I must have argued for about 10 minutes that
point exactly.

After all was said and done, the parts guy asked,

" Front or Rear?"

AAARRRRRGGGGG!!!

Round Two ding ding
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 17:44:35 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: Spray on Bedliners

> There is major cleaning and it took 10 cans of Dupli-Color to do a Ford
> Ranger $6.99 to $7.99 a can suggested retail, I wouldn't call it the
cheap
> easy way to go, but perhaps the best!
> P/E-M for copie
>
>
>
> Deacon Blues
> deconblu gte.net

Has anybody tried this stuff?

Dale C.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:29:10 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: parts chimps

> ...I don't know how they shave
> those chimps so closely THEN get them to stand behind that counter
> like they really give a sh*t.
>
....laughed so hard I cried....I guess there must not be any any parts guys
on this list......or are they just ducking the bullets?

dale c.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 19:59:06 -0400
From: billjhs
Subject: Flathead

Hello to all,

Does anyone know an easy way to replace the seals (front and rear main)
on the 51 flathead??? Seems mine is leaking from every orifice!!! Also,
it seems to be smoking alot at times on acceleration out of the draft
tube under the truck??? Bad rings or what ???

Thanks
BIll
1951 F-1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 20:56:11 -0400
From: bbprice
Subject: Re: Prices For New in '64-65?

CARVER, JEFFREY D wrote:

> Anybody know what a new '65 F100
> sold for in 1964 or 65? I'm gathering info
> on my '64 F100 CrewCab purchased
> in 1965 by my dad, now owned by me!
>
> - Jeff '64 CrewCab
>

Jeff, my books don't show a Crew Cab for 1964.If you have the Warranty
Number, please compare it to the following, they are the prices I have
in my resources:

Body Style F-100
F-250 F-350
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

80 Platform $2 ,000 $2,162
$2,369
81 Chassis cab $1,848 $2,011
$2,176
83 Flare Side (6.5ft) $1,964
- ----- ------
83 Style Side (6.5ft) $1,979
- ------ ------
83 Style Side (8ft) $2,016 $2,140
$2,322
86 Stake $2,055
$2,217 $2,423

According to my info, in 1965 Ford offered a Crew Cab in the F-250 and
F-350. The book I have notes that any crew cabs prior to this year were
only available from after market suppliers but it does not give any
pricing information for those options in either years. The above numbers
should get you in the ball park if no one else can come up with any info
for you.

Barry
1980 Ford F-150 302 Auto Extended Cab
1965 Ford F-100 300 3 speed Step side.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:35:31 -0000
From: "Kelly C. Mathiason"
Subject: [none]

Could you please take my name off your email list to much in coming
email



Thank you
K. Mathiason

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 22:40:34 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Screwed My axle HELP!!

Try not to think me to much of an idiot as you read this. On Saturday me
and a buddy did a rear brake job on my '79 F250. Between parts runs and
looking for someone to turn the drums it took most of the afternoon and
evening. We finally got it done and adjusted right and were pretty beat.
So we called it a day without topping off the gear lub in the rear end.
Today when I was about five block from my house the right rear inner wheel
bearing self distructed. I didn't know what it was at the time and limped
home the five blocks. Pulled it apart and found the inner bearing race
stuck firmly to the axle housing. Also the threads on the end of the
housing were slightly flared out. This made it very interesting to get the
nuts off. You don't even want to know how. We borrowed a universal
threaded and managed to get it to the point that the nuts will go on with
some grunt work and a half inch drive breaker bar. The problem is that the
bearings still won't slide on. There seems to be a small high spot
somewhere that keeps them from slipping over the threaded area of the
housing. Also when the nuts are threaded on there is a small amount of
play in them. Will this small amount of play be a problem? Any idea on
how to get the threads back to normal? Take pity on the stupid, give me
some ideas.

- -Brett

Older, wiser and definitely about to be poorer.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 22:47:02 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: Resistor Wire

Tom Hogan writes:
"I've seen discussion about resistance wire used by Ford in their
ignition circuits. Apparently from the ignition key switch to the
controller box. Was this used on all cars/trucks? Which models could I find this wire in? Where is it located?"

Tom,
If I rember correctly, Ford started using a resistor between the ignition switch and the coil + terminal back in 1957 when they went to the "B7A" coil. I do not remember what they did for the 56 (it was a 12 volt system also) but for the 55 and earlier they used a discreet resistor, sometimes mounted on the coil but sometimes mounted on either side of the firewall. The resistence wire is laid right in with the rest of the wiring loom. On many (I do not know if this was "all") vehicles the wire was under the dash between the ignition switch and the firewall connector. I do not recall ever seeing one inside the engine compartment. It was used on both cars and trucks. I do not know when they stopped this but I suspect it was when they went to the high energy ignition systems. If you cut a wire harness apart to look for one, it is a single strand of wire (not multistrand like most of the wiring) and will be covered with a high temp insulation.
Regards,
Roger Meier

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 22:57:55 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
Subject: Re: "tree forks" ranting

Couldn't help but jump in on this one...

I have been shopping for parts at Autozone, Pep Boys and Super Shops
here just north of Dallas. I consider myself a "hobbyist" when it comes
to truck knowledge..no one would ever accuse me of being a qualified
mechanic...but whooo weeeeee...there are some TOTALLY NON-KNOWLEDGEABLE
folks working behind the parts counters. Many has been the time I was
told the store did not carry a certain part, when in fact it was on the
shelf in the back storage area or even on one of the shelves up front (I
just couldn't find it, but you'd think somebody who worked there would
be able to). I asked the other day for a carb gasket for my Edelbrock
1406 (square bore). The young lady behind the counter was polite and
courteous to me but she was clueless.

After numerous frustrating trips to parts stores I follow the guidelines
below:

1. I vote with my wallet..I only shop at places that treat me like a
valued customer and at least try to help me.

2. I find someone at each store who is KNOWLEDGEABLE and willing to
help and I remember that persons name and rely on them to help me.

3. I know Super Shops does not have the best reputation but the one
here in Richardson by far has paid me the most attention and acted as
though my business was appreciated. At Pep Boys there are only 2 guys
behind the counter that really know their stuff. I call on them when I
need help. AutoZone here in Mckinney, Texas does a decent job of
locating the right parts and hiring somewhat knowledgeable counter
folks. Plus they have valued my business and treated me well over the
last few years..(even just on the phone). They get my repeat business.

4. Our local junkyards...yukkkkk...Will sell you anything no matter if
it is the right part or not...they don't really care...I have yet to
break the code on dealing with those guys.

5. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, bring the old part with you. I have saved
more return trips by matching the old part to the new one before leaving
the store.

6. When one parts counter person is stumped just move over one position
and ask for the same thing from the next parts counter person. This has
worked for me more times than I care to remember.

7. Just because the parts counter person says "It must be a dealer only
item" doesn't necessarily mean it really is. I was looking for a
vacuum advance for a friend's car...about 12 different business' said
"dealer only item", then the knowledgeable guy at Pep Boys said
"hmmm..part number?...hmmm....cross reference....next day air
order...half the price of the dealer!"
Just gotta keep pressing sometimes.

Sorry for the rambling...
but you guys struck a chord with this one....

Don
Allen, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 21:44:25 +0100
From: Tim Baker
Subject: RE: Resistor Wire

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCBCA0.6119A0B0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

They are used on a lot of the old fords---Borg-Warner makes them if you =
can find a parts guy competant of catalogs.

- ----------
From: Roger Meier
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 7:47 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Resistor Wire

Tom Hogan writes:
"I've seen discussion about resistance wire used by Ford in their
ignition circuits. Apparently from the ignition key switch to the
controller box. Was this used on all cars/trucks? Which models could I =
find this wire in? Where is it located?"

Tom,
If I rember correctly, Ford started using a resistor between the =
ignition switch and the coil + terminal back in 1957 when they went to =
the "B7A" coil. I do not remember what they did for the 56 (it was a 12 =
volt system also) but for the 55 and earlier they used a discreet =
resistor, sometimes mounted on the coil but sometimes mounted on either =
side of the firewall. The resistence wire is laid right in with the =
rest of the wiring loom. On many (I do not know if this was "all") =
vehicles the wire was under the dash between the ignition switch and the =
firewall connector. I do not recall ever seeing one inside the engine =
compartment. It was used on both cars and trucks. I do not know when =
they stopped this but I suspect it was when they went to the high energy =
ignition systems. If you cut a wire harness apart to look for one, it =
is a single strand of wire (not multistrand like most of the wiring) and =
will be covered with a high temp insulation.
Regards,
Roger Meier





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+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 21:03:50 -0600
From: Randy Collins
Subject: RE: mime? attachments?

Howdy Folks!

I am just checking to see if I have solved the attachment problem.

Let me know if this is seen as a binary message or if it still contains an attachment.
I

Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces)
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
F250 4WD 460 C-6


- -----Original Message-----
From:jstrigas [SMTP:jstrigas worldnet.att.net]
Sent:Friday, September 05, 1997 9:28 PM
To:fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject:Re: mime? attachments? can somebody flame me?

No, you don't have an attachment. The post I replied to did. I thought
it was a joke because it had a different attachment to it. It was
winmail.dat.
Flames aren't appreciated as much as binary attachments, these weren't
flames. You recognize you have flamed someone when you get e-mail from Mom!
(: Who said Ken was to nice a guy to get mad!
A flame is more when someone is within the rules and someone blast them
over an opinion! That's my job. "The Torch, I live to Flame"! I wouldn't
need to do it if Ken would write more often. I do it for attention! ;]
It was another Kevin I replied to! Your cool Bro!



Deacon Blue
jstrigas worldnet.att.net

'73 F100
'83 XJ900RK
'86 GL1200 Custom

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Kemmerer
To: fordtrucks listservice.net
Date: Friday, September 05, 1997 6:54 PM
Subject: mime? attachments? can somebody flame me?



>was wondering if my mail is received as an attatchment. does having MIME
>turned on do this or not? i turned it off weeks ago because i thought i
>might be sending mail in an unacceptable manner. what excatly is the
>disadvantage/advantage of using MIME. hope none of my postings have come
>through wrong. i very rarely receive any postings as attachments, and my
>own never appear that way if i open them. just wondering . . . . . .
>
>sleddog
>
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request....


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