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Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 21:28:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #185
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, September 2 1997 Volume 01 : Number 185



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: two lists [mcat epix.net]
Re: Which Welder?? [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
F350 Brakes [AM14 chrysler.com]
Re: digest V1 #181/ welders [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: welding equipment [sdelanty sonic.net]
RE: 400 cid ["Dave Resch"]
speedometer gear [Jesus Cardoso ]
Timing Chain Questions [Keith Srb ]
Door Panels for 74 F250 [Keith Srb ]
Re: Door Panels for 74 F250 [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
RE: Murphy's Law [DC Beatty ]
RE: 302 front cover [DC Beatty ]
Re: 302 front cover ["Mark Mech" ]
clutch bolt torque ["Mark Mech" ]
'59 F-100 292c.i.d. [ScottC1073 aol.com]
ADMIN: dal [205.231.180.2] who are you? [Ken Payne
Re: 400 cid ["George Shepherd" ]
Looking for a Truck...im looking for a old 1956 Ford F-100 [Krow
Re: Electrolisis derusting process [Hotrod4d aol.com]
Re: speedometer gear [Don Grossman ]
microfilm/parts list ["Dave Walbeck" ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 97 12:36:40 PDT
From: mcat epix.net
Subject: Re: two lists

Don
I`m trying a similar swap with the IH 6.9 into a 56coe. The big
concern is the weight factor. The coe will more than hold the motor but
the pickup may have to be really beefed on the front springs for the
weight. The other thing is what to do with the rear end? These engines
produce 400ft.lbs of torque. Other wise it would be a neat ride and turn
heads at the cruise ins.
Garry
- --- On Mon, 1 Sep 1997 04:33:16 -0400 (EDT) DWBaile aol.com wrote:

>Hello,
>While I don't think I have posted before, I do have an opinion on whether
one
>list or two. I have a 1948 F-1, a 1950 F-1; current project, a 1961
F-100
>Unibody; next project, a 1976 F-150 Super Cab, a 1978 F-250 Crew Cab
Dually
>and a 1941 Ford military vehicle that I keep wanting to call a Jeep
because
>it looks like one, but my military vehicle friend keeps insisting has
nothing
>to do with a d&%n Jeep, it's a Ford! How's that for a run-on sentence.
I
>find it nice to only have the one list. I find things in almost every
one
>that I either use directly, or think about for the next time something
goes
>wrong.
>
>I too was trying to do the flathead rebuild. I bought the book, found the
>parts sources, checked the block for everything I could think of, took
the
>engine out and found the exhaust valve seats cracked right out to the
>manifolds. I have a '74 Maverick donor with a 302/C4/8" posi that I
could
>use, or I have an International Harvester Diesel that I think would be a
hoot
>in there. I want it to look stock when complete, but wouldn't a '50 with the
>IH turbo Diesel be a hoot. Kinda like a stone aged Power Stroke. What do
>you think?
>
>I will await your reply, and please take it easy on me as I am just thinking
>out loud at this point. I have not cut anything just yet.
>Thanks for your consideration,
>Don
>+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
>| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
>| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
>+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+
>

- -----------------End of Original Message-----------------


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Name: Garry
E-mail: mcat epix.net
Date: 9/2/97 Time: 12:36:41 PM

427 Fe powered 56 F-100 Wild by design
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 09:52:54 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Which Welder??

My 2 cents worth to add to Steve's:

Yep, a MIG (wire feed) welder is the best investment in terms of welders you
can get. The oxyacetylene torch is good to have as a "hot wrench" when
necessary, esp. on tight suspension components or when cutting off your
exhaust or if you just get real frustrated with everything ;-).

Steve's suggestion about using a gas bottle and NOT flux-core wire is a good
one; flux core tends to spray more, and create more slag etc. Also,
flux-core wire costs a good two to three times what regular wire costs, so
you save your money back on the bottle costs pretty quick.

Make sure you buy a US-made welder; some of them are made in Italy (of all
places) and these, at least up here, are impossible to get parts for. Stick
to a real brand like Miller or Lincoln, and go to your welding supply dealer
(Liquid Carbonic), (I guess you don't have Canox down there) to buy one, or
at least get the dealer's spiel on one. At least that way you'll be
educated as to what to look for used.

Find yrself a good helmet, and I would suggest getting one of those
automatic ones, even tho they'll cost you 200 bucks or so, cause they'll
save you SO MUCH in the end in terms of time, hassle, and of course sloppy
"shot in the dark" welds.

Finally, a GREAT book about welding is the "Haynes Welding Manual", about 20
bucks at your auto parts store, which will tell you ALL about the different
types of welding, and tell you about tricks of the trade etc.

happy welding!!

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 97 13:16:14 EDT
From: AM14 chrysler.com
Subject: F350 Brakes

I own a 1976 F350. USED and ABUSED on the farm and it will slide the tires on
asphalt with 7000# of gravel on it. Never been a problem stopping. I think you
guys with brake problems need to look closer at something. If my memory serves
me correctly it has 3" wide shoes on the rear. Fronts are of course disc.
Don't know the dia. of them, but I remember the pads are huge. The 'piston' in
the Master Cyl is also much larger than normal pickups. If you have replaced
the Master Cyl, I would make sure it is for the Heavy duty F350, (Cab &
chasis) and not the pickup style F350.

WORKING TO BE THE BEST
Azie Magnusson
PROFS ID (AM14):E-Mail AM14 Chrysler.com
Tie Line (835-2578):Outside (205)464-2578

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 10:40:50 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: digest V1 #181/ welders

>
>Can a welder that is sold as a 030 wire feed be fed 024 wire with no other
>changes?


Well, how about minimal changes...
To run .023" wire You will need to change to an 023 gun liner and tip.
You may also find it necessary to change the drive roller on some models.
Some use a drive roller with grooves for both .023 and .030/035 wire and
You can simply flip the roller upside down to use the .023" groove.

Happy welding,

Steve Delanty
1971 F100 FE390 (patiently waiting for twin turbo's)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 10:40:55 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: welding equipment

>
>Well I already took the small arch welder back. Just figured that I would
>want something better some day. Now I just have to wait to get the money
>for the MIG or Wire feed. Here is the next question. Why not just get a
>flux core wire feed? I seem to recall something about not being able to
>use a MIG welder outside if it is windy. Is this true? Do the flux core
>wire feed welders have the same problem? Any other opinions on this from
>anyone else?


Personally, I'm not much of a flux-core (innershield) fan.
Innershield wires make a much dirtier, nastier weld, and will leave
a small amount of slag behind that You will need to chip awaay.

If You buy an SP100 You can buy it as an innershield machine and then
buy the gas kit and bottle later when YOu can afford it. You will see
what an improved weld the gas makes.
If You buy a machine that can only be used with innershield, then
You might as well just keep the stick welder and use skinny rod..

And Yes, the shielding gas wants to blow away on a windy day.
This can be avoided by setting up a well placed wind block.
My personal favorite way to shield from the wind is to set a large
cooler full of cold beer about 2 feet upwind of where I'm working.
I weld outside all the time and rarely have much trouble with wind.
Flux core has the same problem. The gasses come from the burning
wire, but still blow away.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty
1971 F100 FE390 (patiently waiting for twin turbo's)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 12:29:23 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: RE: 400 cid

>From: "Kevin"
>Subject: 400 cid
>How large can a 400 be bored?

According to my sources, the cylinder spacing on M-block (351M/400) engines
is 4.35" With a bore of 4.00", you should be able to easily go to 0.060'
overbore. I think that's the largest piston you can find for it anyway,
unless you have some custom made. An overbore of 0.060" on a 400 would
yield approx 414 cubic inches.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 14:45:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Jesus Cardoso
Subject: speedometer gear

Hello Everyone,

I hope someone can help me! I have been try to find a
speedometer gear for my F100 ('63 with a 292 and Warner T87E 3-speed), I
tried my local ford dealership and they told me it was discontinued, I
also tried Mac's and they gave me following answer, "Sorry, we do not
carry such an item and I have no good leads for you.". I really need to
get my speedometer working. My local community has no junk yards that
carry vehicles as old as my truck. With school just starting I don't
have time to go to Houston, Austin, or Dallas to find a truck at a junk
yard.
Does anyone have any idea were I can find a speedo gear or if I
could possibly get one machined? Talking about machining one...the one
that was in the truck was made out of plastic, if I put a metal one in
there would it work okay.

Thanks in advance.


p.s. I am still trying to find the VIN number on my truck. Hopefully I
will find it soon so that you all can help me uncode it.

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::

Jesus Cardoso, a.k.a. Chuy
Graduate Research Assistant (Power System Automation Lab)
Dept. of Electrical Engineering, Texas A&M University
College Station, TX 77843-3128
w: 409-845-4623, h: 409-775-0737
Mailing Address: P.O. Box 2214, College Station, TX 77841-2214
e-mail: cardoso ee.tamu.edu
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://ee.tamu.edu/~cardoso

:::::::::::::::"Todos en el mundo sonreimos en la misma lengua.":::::::::::::::

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 14:17:03 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Timing Chain Questions

74 F250, I need to replace the timing chain and gears.

1. Does anyone make a gear drive set to replace the chain and gears?

2. Are there any "little problems" I need to watch out for?

3. Timing Chain slipped a tooth or two, so what do I have to move so the marks
up on the crank shaft gear and the cam shaft gear will line up?

Thanks

TTFN

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 14:17:28 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Door Panels for 74 F250

Does any body have any idea where I can get replacement door panels for a 74
F250, OEM or custom built?

Thanks

TTFN

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 14:17:42 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: Re: Door Panels for 74 F250

>Does any body have any idea where I can get replacement door panels for a 74
>F250, OEM or custom built?
>
>Thanks
>

Try Dennis Carpenter Reproductions, they make most everything. I don't know
their number but you could always look it up in the internet phone book


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: 02 Sep 97 19:56:14 EDT
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Murphy's Law

Amen. One day last winter when it was 14 below zero the starter on my Maverick
went. "No problem," says I to myself, "I shall have it replaced in a jiffy. The
cold will not harm me."

Nothing is ever that simple. Whoever put that starter in rounded off the bolts.
The top bolt to the 2 bolt starter on the 302 is way up there behind the idler
arm with the starter up next to it on one side and the exhaust pipe on the other
and the tranny cooler lines real close...Nothing but a wrench could get to it
and of course this slipped off 'cause wrenches only work on bolts that have
sides and corners on them. I bled and bled. I couldn't find a stick of dynamite.


I finally ground off the bolt head with a borrowed Dremel grinder and the
starter came right out. I laid under there and wept with relief. It took _3
sub-zero days_ to remove one bolt.
The nice thing is the day I got it back on the road it warmed up to 50 degrees
or so.

You are never alone,

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

At 09:08 PM 9/1/97 +0000, you wrote:
>I'm not going into all the things that went wrong with this engine
>swap, but the last thing that went wrong was when the engine hoist
>bent a leg and the 460 came tumbling down. Please let me know that
>I'm not the only one that has problems when I try to do something
>like this.

I changed my truck over to disc brakes not because I wanted them
(I did), but because I damaged the spindle on the drum system
while trying to remove a stuck bearing. I now know the proper
way to remove spindle bearings!

A month ago I helped a friend change his over to disc brakes.
After carefully measuring and bending all the steel lines and
hooking it all together, it became apparent we had the front and
rear brake circuits crossed when we started to bleed it.

Or having a hell of a time trying to get a smooth idle only to
kick myself for having the distributor off by on gear tooth
(dooh!!).

Or the time (with my last truck) I was taking off the water pump
and I ended up with the wrench handle sticking into my radiator
when it slipped.

You're not alone!
Ken





+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
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------------------------------

Date: 02 Sep 97 19:56:11 EDT
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: 302 front cover

I have gotten good results with Marvel Mystery Oil for stuff like this. I had a
rusted cabmount from an F-100. I was rusted together bad!!! I let the Mystery
Oil work on it for 2 days and it practically fell apart. If you can just find a
way to force some in there...

Maybe some careful work with a torch can break the rust bonds?

Just some thoughts. Good luck,

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

- ----------
From: INTERNET:fordtrucks ListService.net
Sent: Monday, September 01, 1997 11:27 PM
To: INTERNET:fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Re: 302 front cover

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Subject: Re: 302 front cover
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I dont think the bolts will come out until I get the cover off. Then There
will be enough meat to grab with vise grips. Is there something that will
actually eat the rust? I have soaked it in liquid wrench and thought about
some acid. I lightly beat on the cover and drove a thin wedge between it
and the block but it hasnt budged yet.

Mark Mech
1913 E. El Parque
Tempe, Arizona 85282
aerofoam earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~aerofoam/






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 17:57:46 -0700
From: "Mark Mech"
Subject: Re: 302 front cover

I got the front cover off, but it is so corroded I will need to weld it up.
I found used ones (still on the cars) for $25 and a new aftermarket one for
$75.00. The new ones at the dealer are $185.00 and thats only 10% above
cost!
Is that a good price for the aftermarket timing cover?
I dont think it would be worth the time to go remove one from a junker.




Mark Mech
1913 E. El Parque
Tempe, Arizona 85282
aerofoam earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~aerofoam/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 17:58:44 -0700
From: "Mark Mech"
Subject: clutch bolt torque

What should I torque clutch bolts to?


Mark Mech
1913 E. El Parque
Tempe, Arizona 85282
aerofoam earthlink.net
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.earthlink.net/~aerofoam/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 21:12:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: ScottC1073 aol.com
Subject: '59 F-100 292c.i.d.

I am in the middle of a complete rebuild of a '59 F-100 with a Y-block 292.
I have been calling around but have not been having much luck finding parts
for the engine. Can anyone suggest a good place to look for a complete
rebuild kit, accessories, etc.?

Thanks, Scott from MI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 21:44:44 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: ADMIN: dal [205.231.180.2] who are you?

Whoever sent mail from dal [205.231.180.2] asking for
assistance posting, its not a valid address so I can't
help you. Your invalid posting address is the problem.
- -Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 20:56:17 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: 400 cid

Dave,

As the M-Block devotee, doew the M block use the small 5.0 5.8 block
transmission bolt pattern for a c-6 or a big (460) block transmission bolt
pattern.---------
.
>
> Dave R. (M-block devotee)
> 1980 F250 4x4 351M
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 22:45:08 -0400
From: Krow
Subject: Looking for a Truck...im looking for a old 1956 Ford F-100

Hello, I currantly live in michigan, and am 16 years of age. I have
Declared independence from my computer, well at least im trying. I
Am looking to buy a someone good condition 1956 f-100. I like the
truck in general, and think it would be a good long term learning
project for me. And I want to spend my summer savings on a good
purchase, not just something that is gonna last me awhile...Well...
if you have any clue where i could find one, or know someone who has
one, i would be grately appreciated...Thanks

Jason Schroeder
Troy, Michigan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 23:13:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: Hotrod4d aol.com
Subject: Re: Electrolisis derusting process

I would also be interested in the process to use on my '67 f-100.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Sep 1997 20:27:14 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: speedometer gear

Jesus Cardoso wrote:

> Hello Everyone,
>
> I hope someone can help me! I have been try to find a
> speedometer gear for my F100 ('63 with a 292 and Warner T87E 3-speed),
> I
> tried my local ford dealership and they told me it was discontinued, I
>
> also tried Mac's and they gave me following answer, "Sorry, we do not
> carry such an item and I have no good leads for you.". I really need
> to
> get my speedometer working. My local community has no junk yards that
>
> carry vehicles as old as my truck. With school just starting I don't
> have time to go to Houston, Austin, or Dallas to find a truck at a
> junk
> yard.
> Does anyone have any idea were I can find a speedo gear or if
> I
> could possibly get one machined? Talking about machining one...the
> one
> that was in the truck was made out of plastic, if I put a metal one in
>
> there would it work okay.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> p.s. I am still trying to find the VIN number on my truck. Hopefully
> I
> will find it soon so that you all can help me uncode it.
>

If it is a gear you say, how many teeth do you need on the gear? Have
you tried Obsolete Ford Parts 405-631-3933. I might have one laying
arround the garage if you ask nice. :) It will be plastic BTW.

That VIN you are looking for, on the drivers side door would be the....


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