fordtrucks-digest V1 #170

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Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 22:28:42 -0600 (MDT)
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fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, August 26 1997 Volume 01 : Number 170

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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

High output ["Harvey, Blaine" ]
Re: 68 Ford Brake swap???? [Don Grossman ]
Re: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1 ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 68 Ford Brake swap???? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: Drum Brakes - Help! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Installing Solid Axle [JonP27604

aol.com]
Re: 351M to 460 swap ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Brakes, barns and ball joints ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
[none] [terry samek ]
RE: Drum Brakes - Help! [DC Beatty ]
Re: (no subject) [JBair

webtv.net (Justin Bair)]
Re: High output [Chekerdpst

aol.com]
Re: Installing Solid Axle ["Kevin" ]
RE: Drum Brakes - Help! [DC Beatty ]
RE: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1 [DC Beatty ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 08:55:00 -0400
From: "Harvey, Blaine"
Subject: High output

PU's definitely had a high-output heater-- my friend's '76 F-150 4-by has
one (it has a plate on dash that says HO heater.)

My 79 F-100 (6) wasn't exactly a sauna but unless you have a big
windchill with very low temperature, it should throw enough heat if it's
working to specs. Being from Ottawa, I always covered the rad for the
winter anyway (custom cardboard box application) and took it off the
first day it overheated in the spring because I forgot all about it.

______
Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 10:01:54 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: More BTU's please..

> From: sdelanty

sonic.net
> Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 09:56:21 -0700
> Subject: More BTU's please..

> Are there any heavier duty heater parts or setups that use a bigger
> core that will fit my '71?

There was a High output heater option as far back as I can remember
on vans but not sure about PU's. The cores are roughly twice as big
and may even fit inside the original housing since most I've seen
have extra room in them but you may need to get the larger housing as
well. You might be able to use a newer one with a little ingenuity
but I'm just guessing. I don't have time to get to junk yards so
can't do the "what If's" I'd like to.

If you're really serious and can get some time to browse the yards
take the measurments of the box and it's outlets and go looking at
vans, they may be close enough to work for you, wish I knew for sure
:-)

- -- Gary Peters --

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pacific.net

63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension
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> Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 20:33:45 -0400 (EDT)
> Subject: Re: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1

> I would like to add P/S to my '66 F100 4x4 (Dana 30 front axle) I
> also heard about the tpye of power assist cylinder you talked about.
> Is that the best way to go?

The power drag link is a PITA IMHO. If it takes a little more
research to turn up an integral unit that will work it will be well
worth the effort, again IMHO :-)

If the pitman arm is the only problem make a shim to wrap around the
tapered pin on the drag link to take up the slack. I had to do that
on my Van conversion but I used the stock unit in that case with a
drop arm which happened to be made for a 4x4 and I retained the van
linkage. As it turns out the van has linkage in front of the axle so
it all worked out.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..
=======================================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 16:33:08 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 68 Ford Brake swap????

> Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 21:40:07 -0400
> From: Joe DeLaurentis
> Subject: 68 Ford Brake swap????

> Would a 73-79 150 or 78-79 Bronco Dana 44 front axle swap in a 68
> f100?? So i would get the better axle then the 30 plus disc
> brakes...???? Joe

I swapped a Dana 44 from a 70's vintage bronco into a 75 van but it
wasn't a bolt in by any means. In your case it might be close to
that since you already have the coil springs and radius arms and
track bar but I can't say for sure since I'm not familiar with the
exact arrangement on the 68.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..
=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 17:32:13 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Drum Brakes - Help!

> From: Kevin Lindstedt
> Subject: RE: Drum Brakes - Help!
> Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 07:52:38 -0500

> Well, I swapped around the linings this past weekend - put the short
> in front, etc... I think the "dragging" problem I have/had (it's
> going away) is due to the linings not matching the radius of the
> drum. My Dad told me that years ago it was common practice to "fit"
> the linings to the drum. The parts store/shop would grind down your
> new linings to match the drum. Has anyone ever heard of this? Is
> it still done today?

If you hypothetically allow .200" stock on the I.D. which would be
.100 on a side you will have a max deflection of only .050" which I
would guess will quickly mold itself to the drum and probably spring
the shoe that much without detracting much from it's stopping power
IMHO :-) Drums use to have more meat in them than they do now and in
some cases there isn't enough material left to take a healthy cut so
the rotors and drums must be discarded anyway.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..
=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks
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Subject: Installing Solid Axle

I am trying something that I would like some input on. While browsing
through my favorite bone yard I came across a 1963 F350 with the one ton
solid axle still under it, complete (except rims), and in good shape. My less
than fertile mind was intrigued and decided that I may be able to come up
with
something to do with it. My answer was to see if it would fit under the front
of my 1965 F100 parts truck and in effect create a 1965 F350 Super Duty (with
dually rear axle added also.)

I stewed on it awhile and did some measuring and decided it would work
with
slight modification to the 1965 frame. I purchased the axle with the springs,
shackles, front-rear hangers, drag link and pitman arm. After drilling and
chiseling plenty of rivets on the 1965 frame I was able to remove all
mounting brackets of the twin I beam suspension, including the spring
pirches. My project is at the stage now where the bare frame is upside down
with the axle/springs sitting in place and not attached yet. I want to work
out all the details before going any further. Which comes to my main
question. Does anyone have any thoughts about steering linkage? I would like
to do this without using the '63 steering box as that would mean cutting a
hole in the frame which can not be good for strength. Using the stock
steering box may work but it seems the pitman arm will interfere with the
left spring when turning right and going over a bump at the same time (it
could happen.) I would appreciate any thoughts. Thank you and sorry so long
winded.

Jon E. Purut
JonP27604

aol.com

1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
1965 F100 Parts Truck Hoping To Revive As F350 Super Duty
1970 Mustang Fastback
1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)

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> Date: Thu, 21 Aug 1997 21:42:06 +0000
> Subject: 351M to 460 swap

> I'm getting ready for the "BIG" swap planned for this weekend.
> Saturday is the "gather the parts" day. I'm putting a 460 from a '77
> Lincoln into a '78 F150 4x4. According to the Ford dealer the 460
> was an option for the '78 F150 so will I be able to use the stock
> 460 motor mounts? Will I have to change oil pans? and boy there sure
> are alot of hoses on that 460. Any last minute advice?

A van oil pan will be required or one for the 4wd vehicle with that
engine. Remember that the heater circuit is the block circulation
path when the thermostat is closed so don't block it off, use jumpers
if you don't hook up the heater right away.

77 460 should be internally balanced so you need the flexplate for
that arrangement, don't use the 335 series flex plate.

Right side (passenger) manifold needs to be the truck version ($193
new) or frame cutting will be necessary and truck exhaust systems
won't bolt up even with frame mods.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..
=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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To unsubscribe, send email to:
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 19:31:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Brakes, barns and ball joints

Wheeeeeew, I'm finally caught up on the mail! I had a fun 5 days at
home finishing the siding on my barn and changing the ball joints on
one side of the dana 44 as well as working on the brakes, Had to
replace the rotor dust shields on both sides due to Michigan cancer
and was hoping to put on the Earl's lines while I was at it but they
didn't get here on time. Installed the Summit adjustable
proportioning valve and am in the process of adjusting for best
braking response.

The ball joints weren't too bad to do but I was getting concerned
about the top one which had to be knocked out from the back side
through the hole for the bottom one. Using a muffler chisle with
punch installed I was able to get them both out eventually. It's
interesting that there is only one snap ring on one joint to support
all the unladen weight of spindle and tire assy on jounce/rebound
when the tire is off the ground but they press in pretty hard so I
suppose it's enough. I have anti-seize on everything i've taken
apart so it will be a snap to work on in the future :-)

See ya tomorrow if no one got my plate number this morning :-)

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..
=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
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Reply-To: fordtrucks

ListService.net

You wrote:

>> From: "Kevin Lindstedt"
>> Subject: Drum Brakes - Help!
> >Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:19:45 -0500

> >ways. Which is correct: long lining in front (primary shoe), or in
> >back (secondary shoe)? I looked at the old linings and the last

>As I recall the short one goes in front but the last few sets I've
>bought have the same length so who knows? The idea is that the
>pressure from the front shoe when going forward will exert a stronger
>overall mechanical advantage on the rear shoe causing it to grab
>unless you spread the load over a larger area with a larger foot
>print against the drum, as I recal :-)

>-- Gary Peters --

Well, I swapped around the linings this past weekend - put the short in front,
etc... I think the "dragging" problem I have/had (it's going away) is due to
the linings not matching the radius of the drum. My Dad told me that years ago
it was common practice to "fit" the linings to the drum. The parts store/shop
would grind down your new linings to match the drum. Has anyone ever heard of
this? Is it still done today?

Kevin Lindstedt
1978 F150 Ranger Lariat 460/C6 2wd

======================= End Part 1 / Begin Part 2 =======================
Format: BINARY

% Part 2 is binary

============================== End Part 2 ===============================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 23:16:38 -0400
From: JBair

webtv.net (Justin Bair)
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Hello there, Your front end problem could be a number of things:
1. There is a rubber piece between your steering link and the steering
box, they get old, dry rotted and loose.
2. Bad upper and lower ball joints is another common problem
3. Any of the steering geometrics, tie rod ends, drag links, ect.
4. Steering box adjustment, this is done by that little screw on the top
of the steering box, loosen the lock nut and try tightning the screw 1/4
turn at a time. I don't recommend you go over 3/4 of a turn.
5. replace the steering stabalizer shock on the front end, conected to
the drag link, If you don't have one many companies make kits. go to
your local parts store.

Full time transfer=A0case situation.
1. High range, low range with no lock means that the front and rear is
acting like a nonlocking differential. this enables the transfer case to
put power the wheel or wheels most in need of traction. This aids in
keeping gas milage down a little, and saves from braking pieces, like
universals and ring and pinions, and drive shafts when driving on
pavement. It also is easier on front end pieces.The "Lock" gear is when
the transfer case sends power to the front and back at the same time,
it's "locked". Hope I explained it well enough
HAPPY TRAILS

JB

79 Ford Bronco
Previous owner of 3 other 78-79 ford trucks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 23:36:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Chekerdpst

aol.com
Subject: Re: High output

Some info on the H.O heater- my 78 F-250 (460/C-6/camper/trailer special)
came equipped with the factory H.O. unit. The core, which has twice the
number of rows as the other unit, is only about 10 dollars more, and readily
available at the local Schucks. The unit took me about 2 hours to replace
when my interior started to resemble a steam sauna. Good luck. Darren

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 23:05:37 -0000
From: "Kevin"
Subject: Re: Installing Solid Axle

Don't take this wrong, but, WHY? Everyone esle is going to better
suspension
and you are going back in time.

- -----Original Message-----
From: JonP27604

aol.com
To: fordtrucks

ListService.net
Date: Wednesday, August 27, 1997 12:53 AM
Subject: Installing Solid Axle

> I am trying something that I would like some input on. While browsing
>through my favorite bone yard I came across a 1963 F350 with the one ton
>solid axle still under it, complete (except rims), and in good shape. My
less
>than fertile mind was intrigued and decided that I may be able to come up
>with
>something to do with it. My answer was to see if it would fit under the
front
>of my 1965 F100 parts truck and in effect create a 1965 F350 Super Duty
(with
>dually rear axle added also.)
>
> I stewed on it awhile and did some measuring and decided it would work
>with
>slight modification to the 1965 frame. I purchased the axle with the
springs,
>shackles, front-rear hangers, drag link and pitman arm. After drilling and
>chiseling plenty of rivets on the 1965 frame I was able to remove all
>mounting brackets of the twin I beam suspension, including the spring
>pirches. My project is at the stage now where the bare frame is upside down
>with the axle/springs sitting in place and not attached yet. I want to work
>out all the details before going any further. Which comes to my main
>question. Does anyone have any thoughts about steering linkage? I would
like
>to do this without using the '63 steering box as that would mean cutting a
>hole in the frame which can not be good for strength. Using the stock
>steering box may work but it seems the pitman arm will interfere with the
>left spring when turning right and going over a bump at the same time (it
>could happen.) I would appreciate any thoughts. Thank you and sorry so long
>winded.
>
>Jon E. Purut
>JonP27604

aol.com
>
>1965 F100 SWB Daily Driver
>1965 F100 Parts Truck Hoping To Revive As F350 Super Duty
>1970 Mustang Fastback
>1993 Escort Wagon (wifes car)
>
>=======================================================================
>Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks
>Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
> - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
>To unsubscribe, send email to:
>fordtrucks-request

listservice.net
>with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
>email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
>message.
>=======================================================================
>
>

------------------------------

Date: 26 Aug 97 21:11:29 EDT
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: Drum Brakes - Help!

Yup. Just did mine this weekend (Saturday was "Truck Improvement Day"). The
longer pad goes in the rear.

Good Luck

DC Beatty
1967 F-100 352
1974 Maverick 302

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Subject: Re: Drum Brakes - Help!

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> From: "Kevin Lindstedt"
> Subject: Drum Brakes - Help!
> Date: Wed, 20 Aug 1997 21:19:45 -0500

> ways. Which is correct: long lining in front (primary shoe), or in
> back (secondary shoe)? I looked at the old linings and the last

As I recall the short one goes in front but the last few sets I've
bought have the same length so who knows? The idea is that the
pressure from the front shoe when going forward will exert a stronger
overall mechanical advantage on the rear shoe causing it to grab
unless you spread the load over a larger area with a larger foot
print against the drum, as I recal :-)

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..
=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
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Sent: Monday, August 25, 1997 6:49 PM
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Subject: RE: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1

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From: Dan Wentz
Subject: RE: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1
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>I Don't know if this will help you but...
>I know that on cars Ford had a 3 piece Bendix power steering setup. I have
one
>on my '74 Maverick that I was forced to rebuild, and have seen them on
Granada's
>and even on a '66 Mustang. This sounds somewhat like what is being
discussed, as
>some of the hoses go to the Control Valve that screw onto (or in the case
of the
>old Mustang was integral with) the end of the drag link. Some hoses also go
>between this Valve and the Power Ram (looks like a shock absorber bolted
up into
>the whole mess).

....

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