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Date: Tue, 19 Aug 1997 04:00:19 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #2
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, August 19 1997 Volume 01 : Number 002




----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:37:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351M

> From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 21:05:36 +0000
> Subject: 351M

> How do I change a 351M into a 400?

As I recall you need to change the crank and pistons to the 400
versions as a minimum effort but due to larger volume you may want to
look into a cam as well, not sure if it's necessary tho.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 08:47:19 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Suspending question

> Date: Sun, 17 Aug 1997 20:26:53 -0700
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Suspending question

> whole works. I have been reading about shackle flips for the rear,
> changing the shackle from a tension to a compression shackle, and
> was wondering if anyone here has done this and what effects it had
> on the load capacity of the truck. Any great words of wizdom,
> advice or $.02 out there

If it's what I think it is it won't stay for one thing. I've done
this on cars and the first big bump you hit one side or the other
flips back and it makes a real interesting ride! The other thing is
that if you don't change the front to match the height you will have
a rear end sticking up in the air like a stink bug and steering and
handling will go away. It won't affect the load capacity one bit
unless you want to sink it to the nubbers in which case you will
probably break the springs and over load your axles as well.

It may work if you devise a way to prevent it from flipping back over
with a stop of some sort but your handling will definitely suffer and
you will need new shocks as well to allow for additional wheel
travel and extended length from the original mounts.

They usually do this on 4x4's for more suspension travel and ground
clearance but on a 2 wheeler I don't see any benifit?

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:11:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
Subject: Re: Suspending question

howdy folks,
I have a question for you all. If I change my transfer case to a
full time, will I have to change the front shaft, knuckles, and/or
anything else?

Wsabers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:20:06 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Timing, vacuum and stuff

I just installed a "highly accurate", partially gravity operated, 2"
sunpro vac gauge in my bronco and, other than breaking the light bulb
while hooking it up and pushing the new one in too far (??) so it
interfered with the highly accurate mechanism, it was a piece a cake
:-) I also bought the necessary fittings from AutoZone to hook my
PVC up to manifold and re-route the booster line to the front of the
manifold (just worked out that way) so I now have properly evacualed
crank case and new, HD line to the booster. Still haven't adjusted
the distributor vac but that's next on the list to eliminate the low
speed spark knock (I hope) BTW, the Holley I have doesn't seem to
have a timed port so I can't play with the idea I guess. Next time I
take it off I'll take a closer look.

Thought I'd share some observations about the vac:

Don't buy SunPro! It's really, really cheap and the needle has about
4# worth of free play in it (partially gravity actuated) and I'm a
little amazed that pushing the light all the way in to the shoulder
interfered with the mechanism?? I'm inclined to find a 3", test
gauge with a rear port or a 3" dash mount made for high accuracy when
I get serious about this but I just wanted something to do a little
tuning with so I grabbed what they had, bummer :-(

If you use a vacuum gauge to tune with remember that it's highly
sensitive to all sorts of changes in temp, pressure, wind, grades
etc. so you need to test on the same stretch of road under the same
conditions and use land marks to make notes on changes. Here's my
method primarily aimed at cruise tuning for economy:

Find a relatively level straight stretch of road where you can run
for a while without disruptions. (I happen to live on one) Get up
to the speed you want to check and maintain steady throttle pressure.
This is absolutely critical since the slightest variation will alter
the reading. Pick good land marks and take readings only at the
land marks you select and note the direction of travel to eliminate
grade from the equation and note the readings in a log for reference.
Also note the temperature and any wind conditions so you can try to
duplicate them on the next run. This is as scientific as you can get
without a lab and dyno IMHO and will give useful information but is
only usefull for steady state, part throttle testing, primarily for
economy improvements. It's my contention that improvements in this
area will help the performance in other modes as well depending on
gearing and intent etc..

I read an article once which stated that anything you can do to
improve the vacuum reading in any given set of circumstances will
also improve economy since it's an indication of improved efficiency
so I installed 4.11 gears to get the revs up and, by golly, I got
better vacuum readings but the economy went down!!! WHAT??? Didn't
occur to me that the extra revs on a 460 would eat more gas :-(

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:45:36 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Suspending question

> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:11:34 -0500 (CDT)
> From: William Sabers
> Subject: Re: Suspending question

> howdy folks,
> I have a question for you all. If I change my transfer case to a
> full time, will I have to change the front shaft, knuckles, and/or
> anything else?

What year is the vehicle and does it have auto locking hubs? If you
go to full time you will want them locked all the time to prevent
damage to the differential spider gears. If it has manual locking
hubs you can just leave them locked or get the full time hubs for it,
they're interchangeable as far as I know.

Why do you want full time?

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:05:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: William Sabers
Subject: tranfercase


> > howdy folks,
> > I have a question for you all. If I change my transfer case to a
> > full time, will I have to change the front shaft, knuckles, and/or
> > anything else?
>
> What year is the vehicle and does it have auto locking hubs?

I have a 1978 Bronco- manual lockouts.

>If it has manual locking
> hubs you can just leave them locked or get the full time hubs for it,
> they're interchangeable as far as I know.

I am debating getting heavier axles, i.e. Dana 60's. I think a Dana60
will require 16" rims, and probably a new Master Cylinder, am I correct?

>
> Why do you want full time?

I guess it comes down to the strength and durability of the transfer cases
themselves. Tell me something about the transfer cases.... I was
thinking about a full-time with the OEM chain.

Wsabers
78 Bronco
69 Mach I Mustang

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:49:17 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: Flushing out a Gas Tank

HI all,

My 74 has a main and auxiliary gas tank. The previous owner, who bought the
truck new in 74, hardly ever used the auxiliary gas tank. Does anybody have
any suggestions or thoughts on what I should do to this tank before I start
using it?

TTFN

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:49:46 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: tranfercase

> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:05:25 -0500 (CDT)
> From: William Sabers
> Subject: tranfercase

> I have a 1978 Bronco- manual lockouts.
>
> I am debating getting heavier axles, i.e. Dana 60's. I think a
> Dana60 will require 16" rims, and probably a new Master Cylinder, am
> I correct?

Probably but not necessarily.

> I guess it comes down to the strength and durability of the transfer
> cases themselves. Tell me something about the transfer cases.... I
> was thinking about a full-time with the OEM chain.

The NP-205 part time is probably the strongest light truck transfer
case ever built. It can be upgraded with different input and output
shafts for heavier applications as well. The chain drives are
inherently weaker and typically have more backlash in them. Unless
you spend a lot of time driving on ice the full time won't gain
anything I can think of except perhaps convenience since you won't
have to worry about whether the hubs are locked in or not.

On Ice they are hard to beat since they differentiate between the
axles for less slippage due to axle wrap and allow for driving on
pavement in between icy spots with no wrap up to damage differential
and transfer case gears.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 13:04:02 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Flushing out a Gas Tank

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Flushing out a Gas Tank
> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 09:49:17 -0700

> My 74 has a main and auxiliary gas tank. The previous owner, who
> bought the truck new in 74, hardly ever used the auxiliary gas tank.
> Does anybody have any suggestions or thoughts on what I should do
> to this tank before I start using it?

They aren't especially hard to get out so you could take it out and
slosh some cleaner (like gumout) around to make sure and dump out any
debris which might be in it but some have drain plugs in them and you
could rinse it out that way too. Personnally, if the tank looks to
be in good condition it is probably ok to use as is but I'd make sure
I have a good filter in line between it and the pump before filling
it up.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:29:58 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: CDI Ignition Module?

Hi All,

When I bought my 74 Truck a few weeks ago, the was a small box mounted on the
fender well. On the box it say "CDI CONNECTIONS". Some of the wires go to the
coil, I haven't traced the rest of the wires down yet. Can someone tell me what
this box is, what it does or anything else they might know about this box?

Thanks!

TTFN

Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 14:19:26 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: CDI Ignition Module?
> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:29:58 -0700

> When I bought my 74 Truck a few weeks ago, the was a small box
> mounted on the fender well. On the box it say "CDI CONNECTIONS".
> Some of the wires go to the coil, I haven't traced the rest of the
> wires down yet. Can someone tell me what this box is, what it does
> or anything else they might know about this box?

Does it have the typical ford plugs on the wires? 74 was the first
year for the ford electronic ignition. If you have a magnetic pick
up in the distributor and the box is a grey aluminum deal about 5" x
7" x 1.5" thick with two plugs, one with either 2 or 3 wires and the
other with 4 I'm reasonalbly sure it's a Ford unit although I don't
remember the CDI wording on it anywhere?

The early versions have different color coding so I can't help you
with that part but the plug with the 2 or 3 wires is the 12v , 6-8v
and noise input and the one with 4 wires goes to the coil with a
green wire and the other three go to the distributor. The red coil
wire should go either to the hot side of the ignition in the start
position or a small post on the start relay.

Haynes, Chiltons and Petersons manuals have a pretty good schematic
and explanation for the system and are relatively inexpensive. It
will help you a lot to have a copy for reference. (Check before you
buy it to make sure it's in there) The Ford service manuals are very
poor for this. Apparently you have to buy a special wire schematic
separtately to suppliment the service set.

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:26:57 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?

Late model '74 trucks came with electronic ignitions. Yours must be one of
them. The box is your ignition module your harness will also attach to the
distributor and two wires will connect to your electrical system.

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
It's here, It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas/Homepage
If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing there
for everyone!


- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Srb
To: fordtrucks listservice.net
Date: Monday, August 18, 1997 11:00 AM
Subject: CDI Ignition Module?



>Hi All,
>
>When I bought my 74 Truck a few weeks ago, the was a small box mounted on
the
>fender well. On the box it say "CDI CONNECTIONS". Some of the wires go to
the
>coil, I haven't traced the rest of the wires down yet. Can someone tell me
what
>this box is, what it does or anything else they might know about this box?
>
>Thanks!
>
>TTFN
>
>Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
>1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
>1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
>1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
>1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
>My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:43:51 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?

Damn it Gary, get to work! No wonder new Ford trucks cost so much! :)

I like this new list server! It's fast. I say we put it to the test and
everyone post at one time and we'll see how long it takes. OK, ready? On the
count of three. One, two...

Jim Strigas
jstrigas worldnet.att.net
It's here, It's thin. It's under construction. It's my Homepage!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.att.net/~jstrigas/Homepage
If you have nothing better to do, visit my Homepage. There's nothing there
for everyone!


- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary, 78 BBB
To: fordtrucks listservice.net
Date: Monday, August 18, 1997 11:23 AM
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?



>> From: Keith Srb
>> Subject: CDI Ignition Module?
>> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 10:29:58 -0700
>
>> When I bought my 74 Truck a few weeks ago, the was a small box
>> mounted on the fender well. On the box it say "CDI CONNECTIONS".
>> Some of the wires go to the coil, I haven't traced the rest of the
>> wires down yet. Can someone tell me what this box is, what it does
>> or anything else they might know about this box?
>
>Does it have the typical ford plugs on the wires? 74 was the first
>year for the ford electronic ignition. If you have a magnetic pick
>up in the distributor and the box is a grey aluminum deal about 5" x
>7" x 1.5" thick with two plugs, one with either 2 or 3 wires and the
>other with 4 I'm reasonalbly sure it's a Ford unit although I don't
>remember the CDI wording on it anywhere?
>
>The early versions have different color coding so I can't help you
>with that part but the plug with the 2 or 3 wires is the 12v , 6-8v
>and noise input and the one with 4 wires goes to the coil with a
>green wire and the other three go to the distributor. The red coil
>wire should go either to the hot side of the ignition in the start
>position or a small post on the start relay.
>
>Haynes, Chiltons and Petersons manuals have a pretty good schematic
>and explanation for the system and are relatively inexpensive. It
>will help you a lot to have a copy for reference. (Check before you
>buy it to make sure it's in there) The Ford service manuals are very
>poor for this. Apparently you have to buy a special wire schematic
>separtately to suppliment the service set.
>
>-- Gary Peters --
>
>(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
>(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
>(Daughter's)92 Tempo
>(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
>(Wife's)94 T-Bird
>(Son's)90 F-150, I6
>(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
>All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:09:55 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?

> From: "Jim Strigas"
> Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?
> Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 11:43:51 -0700

> Damn it Gary, get to work! No wonder new Ford trucks cost so much!

It's boring but the pay's pretty good. Fortunately Ford doesn't have
to pay me what I'm worth, I can barely afford a 2 year old one now
much less a new one! :-) Actually I could be programming in my spare
time but I can't get my head into it what with all this spring
weather and bronco mania and barn building going on (in my head) :-)

- -- Gary Peters --

(Mine)78 F-150, 2wd, 460, C-6
(Mine)78 Bronco, 4wd, 351M, Np 435, Np 205, 33's
(Daughter's)92 Tempo
(Daughter's)92 T-Bird
(Wife's)94 T-Bird
(Son's)90 F-150, I6
(Son's)76 Blue Bird School bus
All mine to work on, maintain etc..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 12:21:15 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
Subject: RE: steel or fiberglass?

i really can't comment on which way to go, but as i live in Pennsylvania =
also, i have a recommendation for you. first, i believe, but i am not =
sure so you'll have to investigate this, that pa has a registration for =
"street rods". the requirements are less, and i think there is a =
mileage restriction also.

ah, here it is, in the march 1992 copy of the inspection manual, =
compliments of my local VOTECH school, there is a listing for street =
rods, specially constructed & reconstructed vehicles.

so, maybe you don't have to change a thing, depending upon your vehicl, =
and your needs.

and also, i can say this for sure - if you drive it often, fiberglass =
doesn't rust!

sounds like a great truck!

sleddog
- ----------
From: jack fleming[SMTP:tovesh1 dc.infi.net]
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 1997 10:03 PM
To: 'fordtrucks'
Subject: steel or fiberglass?

To everyone:
After several months of lurking and learning on this list, I finally =
took the plunge - I now own a '54 F100 thats been significantly modified =
over the years by previous owners. It has a very clean 351W and C6 =
combo that seem sound. My problem is the body. From the cab back it is =
in very good shape, but In order to get this thing past inspection =
requirements, I'm going to have to undo a "custom" roll-pan style =
bumperless front-end and restore to something resembling original so I =
can have a bumper and proper turn signals (required in Penna). I see =
three options to fix the problem: 1) I can find a really GOOD body guy =
who may be able to salvage some of the current fender/front sheet metal =
and reconstruct it to enable a bumper and standard grille/light bar; 2) =
I can order a one piece fiberglass tilt front-end and have everything in =
one package (expensive, but minimal labor) or, 3: I can buy either NOS =
or fiberglass replacement fenders and restore that way. My intent is =
for this truck to be a daily driver -=20

not for show.

Based on your previous experiences with this kind of thing, what is my =
best choice. I should add that I think I can unbolt and bolt on =
fenders, but my mechanical skills don't extend to doing serious =
bodywork......thanks for any suggestions.

Jack Fleming
'54 F100

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 14:16:47 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: CDI Ignition Module?

Sounds like an electronic ignition module, the other wires should go to the
distributor.

- ----------
> From: Keith Srb
> To: 'fordtrucks listservice.net'
> Subject: CDI Ignition Module?
> Date: Monday, August 18, 1997 12:29 PM
>
> Hi All,
>
> When I bought my 74 Truck a few weeks ago, the was a small box mounted on
the
> fender well. On the box it say "CDI CONNECTIONS". Some of the wires go
to the
> coil, I haven't traced the rest of the wires down yet. Can someone tell
me what
> this box is, what it does or anything else they might know about this
box?
>
> Thanks!
>
> TTFN
>
> Keith Srbherbie netvalue.net
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
> 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
Wheels!"
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 17:39:01 -0500
From: Mike Schwall
Subject: Re: Flushing out a Gas Tank

At 09:49 AM 8/18/97 -0700, you wrote:
>HI all,
>
>My 74 has a main and auxiliary gas tank. The previous owner, who bought the
>truck new in 74, hardly ever used the auxiliary gas tank. Does anybody have
>any suggestions or thoughts on what I should do to this tank before I start
>using it?

Drop the tank and flush it out with solvent, to be on the safe side. Or
just drain the gas from it and fill it up with fresh gas. Then put a good
fuel filter after the tank.

Mike


_____________________________________________

Email: mikes intix.net
Home Page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.intx.net/mikes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 15:46:42 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Subject: Wow! A new list

> Hi all!
> Now we are all new to the list! It's getting time to tune my truck and
>I'm looking for suggestions on sparkplugs. I installed an ignition system
>from a '77 Mercury a few months back and used the Autolites I had in the
>truck with the point ignition. What brand and heat range should I look for?
>My truck is a '73 F100 302 2bbl, Ford shorty headers with duel exhaust, C4
>trans with a Ford 9" rear end 3.25 gears.

Well sure! I'd recommend splitfires, gapped at .666" and dipped in
slick 50 before installation.. (-;

Well, actually I'd use the same brand and heat range You've been using.
The duraspark setup shouldn't require anything different, except You can
probably get away with opening up the gap another .005" or so..

I use plain ol' Autolites in my '71 FE390. I have never found a plug
that works any better, and they are dirt cheap and readily available.

If memory serves correctly, Your 302 uses the same size/heat range as
the 390. (Someone correct me please if this is wrong, which is
rather likely.)
I use Autolite 45 (resistor) or 35 (non-resistor)

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty
1971 F100 FE390

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 21:55:24 -0400
From: Ken Payne
Subject: Free Old/Antique parts catalog (Announcment 2 of 3)

This message is going to get posted once a day for 3 days. This is
day 2 of 3. Initial plans were for one posting but with all the
distractions and down time on the list it will give everyone a chance
to see it. I promised everyone an announcement and many people have
sent me anxious emails concerning this over the last month so I feel
you guys/gals deserve a chance to get the catalog info....

Dear Ford Truck Enthusiasts:

Mac's Antique Auto Parts, one of the largest Ford parts supply houses
in the world, is offering a free parts catalog to all `Ford Truck
Enthusiasts' who are interested and have not already obtained their
catalog(s).

If you have a Ford Truck from 1919-1972 (including Econoline, Bronco's
and Ranchero's) please go to our home page
http://www.ford-trucks.com/index.html and click on their
logo which will lead you to their site.

Once you go to their site you can click on the catalog that is
appropriate for you as follows:

1919-27 Model T or TT Pickup Truck (request Model T Catalog)
1928-31 Model A or AA Pickup Truck (request Model A Catalog)
1932-47 Model B or V8 Powered Pickup Truck (request Early V8 Ford Catalog)
1948-72 Pickup Truck (request 1947-72 Ford Pickup Truck Catalog)
1957-59 Ranchero (request 1949-72 Big Car Catalog)
1960-66 Ranchero (request Falcon/Comet Catalog)
1967-71 Ranchero (request Fairlane/Torino)
1961-67 Econoline (request Econoline Catalog)
1966-77 Bronco (request Catalog)

We would like to have them know that you heard about this via the Ford
Truck Enthusiasts group so at the bottom of their form be sure to mention
that you heard about it from the "FTE Group" and be sure to thank them for
the catalog (as well as provide any comments not technical in nature).

- -Ken
List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8
Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com
(s*bscribe/uns*bscribe forms on the web site)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 21:04:07 -0600
From: Andy Montebello
Subject: Re: Free Old/Antique parts catalog (Announcment 2 of 3)

Does anyone want to recommend a flathead builder that puts together a
strong, reliable motor for a reasonable price?

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 22:13:34 -0400
From: billjhs
Subject: Wiring

Hello to all,

I have been re-wiring my 51 f-1 with new harnesses, I just have some
questions maybe someone can answer. I seem to have a lot of male ends
and no female ends on my wires.
From the main body harness to the under dash harness both ends are male,
am I missing something ?? From the under dash harness to the headlight
crossover both ends are male and the crossover doesn;t seem to have
enough wires to go to both headlights. Again I guess I am missing
something. Any help would be appreciated cause the vendor doesn't seem
to know.

Thanks
Bill

1951 Ford F-1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 23:03:37 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
Subject: Re: 351M, Never Mind

>
> > How do I change a 351M into a 400?
>
> As I recall you need to change the crank and pistons to the 400
> versions as a minimum effort but due to larger volume you may want to
> look into a cam as well, not sure if it's necessary tho.
>
> -- Gary Peters --

Never mind, I just got a '77 Lincoln with a 460 in it. Couldn't beat
the price. The car has alot of interior damage but the engine seems
to be fine. I found a small leak around the oil pan drain plug but
nothing else. Just road dirt so I know it wasn't steamed cleaned.
Plus I found regular maintenance records dating back to 1977 in the
glove compartment.
What are my chances of taking the A/C out and installing it in my '78
F150 4X4? I have all the sheet metal tools, plus a spot welder, mig
welder, cutting torch.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Aug 1997 21:12:43 -0700
From: "Jim Strigas"
Subject: Re: Subject: Wow! A new list

From: Steve Delanty

>Well sure! I'd recommend splitfires, gapped at .666" and dipped in
> slick 50 before installation.. (-;....


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