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Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 16:48:21 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #234
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Monday, September 22 1997 Volume 01 : Number 234



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Header help w/302 [Joe D ]
Re: Header help w/302 ["deconblu" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: too much cam? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: 351M Cam Timing ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: too much cam? [Sleddog ]
RE: 351M Cam Timing [Sleddog ]
RE: too much cam? [Sleddog ]
Re: heater controls??? [rick adc.com (Rick Larson)]
RE: 52 F1 Help [RICHARD_GARBER HP-USA-om21.om.hp.com]
thank but... [KEVIN ]
RE: 351M Cam Timing [pharrell bae.uga.edu (Graphics & Research Fabricatio]
RE: thank but... [Sleddog ]
Re: 351M Cam Timing ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Flathead Help ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: Another Acronym [BigDogF250 aol.com]
Re: Header help w/302 [Joe D ]
Re: Header help w/302 ["deconblu" ]

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Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 06:49:09 -0400
From: Joe D
Subject: Header help w/302

Anybody know where i can find Headers for a 302 in a 4x4 68 f100????
I see them for the 2wheel drive but no 4wheel????anybody from 68-72 have
a small block w/headers???will 2 wheel drive ones work or interfer
with the front driveshaft etc...
joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 04:35:47 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: Header help w/302

>Anybody know where i can find Headers for a 302 in a 4x4 68 f100????
>I see them for the 2wheel drive but no 4wheel????anybody from 68-72 have
>a small block w/headers???will 2 wheel drive ones work or interfer
>with the front driveshaft etc...
>joe


Sounds like your interested in long tube headers, but I used stock '93
shorties off a 5.0 Mustang. There's a huge weld inside that blocks-up the
exhaust. I ground the welds smooth and they flow much better. I used the EGR
connection for my choke. Best thing is they don't interfere with anything
and you can pick up sets dirt cheap. I think there was a guy on the
fordnatics list that was selling his for $35.
I have a picture at my site of the engine. They are hard to see (I painted
them black) but if you look close you can see them on the drivers side. Good
luck with yours!

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/mytruck.htm

Deacon Blues
Visit my Homepage at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
and http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
or send me a fan or flame at deconblu gte.net not both. Never fan a flame!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 08:01:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:44:04 -0700
> Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

> seemed to fill the heater core. ( my guess, which still does not
> make any sense, was that the heater core had an air bubble trapped
> in it ) after I did this the heater blew lots of hot air.

Yes it does. The water pump doesn't really do a heck of a lot to
circulate the water like you might think and air pockets can form in
the heads and heater core on some applications which is why I always
pull the top heater core hose when filling a dry engine to let the
air out. I also crack the thermostat seal till coolant runs out to
let the air out of the heads. Theoretically if you take the top
hose off at the thermostat or water pump and leave it off till
coolant runs out it does the same as cracking the thermostat
housing but I've had them not cooperate this way so I do both to
make sure now. I've had engines spit and sputter with the radiator
completely full when they started to warm up which led me to this
"new technique" which I now use on all engines I work on.

BTW, on Ford engines if the radiator is not completely full (hot) the
heater won't work since it won't circulate through the core. You can
easily prove this to yourself buy lowering the radiator level a few
inches below the top of the core and run the heater. The heater
core is located at a horizontal height right at the top level of the
radiator and is essentially gravity fed. In spite of having a pump
the coolant still tends to seek it's own level.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 08:13:21 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:31:00 -0500
> From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
> Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

> Also make sure that one of the heater hoses comes off the intake -
> the
> water is hotter at the back, by the way - and the other hose goes to
> the water pump. I saw one car where someone had run both hoses to

Since the heater core is part of the circulation system before the
thermostat opens you should have a line on both sides ot the
thermostat by what ever means is availiable. Usually one line to the
manifold or thermostat housing and one to the pump. Some I've seen
have two coming off the pump which is a little confusing. With water
fed intakes it's easier to figure out :-)

On systems with control valves the principles are the same except
there is pobably a bypass for the pre hot block circulation and for
summer operation. These are generic principles you can use to
analyze your system and figure out the best solution but the block
must have a free route around the thermostat or it will over heat
before the thermostat can open and if the heater core is connected to
the same side of the thermostat on both hoses it can't circulate so
won't get hot as already mentioned by someone :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 08:28:06 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: too much cam?

> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 17:01:05 -0500
> From: KEVIN
> Subject: too much cam?

> The cam I bought was a Melling (sae 282 int 292 exh.advertised
> duration- 204int. 214exh .050 lash)valve lift .050 is=.486
> int-512exh I am using stock heads with a 390 4 barrel intake and a
> 4160 holley(750cfm vacumm secondaries)
>
> is this too much?Will I need better than stock springs?How can I

I used a Melling similar to yours in my 460 with dished pistons and
had no problem. It was rated as a stock repalcement with no
modifications and had a .520 lift as I recall but comments about the
springs probably are in order. I didn't know much about it at the
time but if I did it now I would at least invest in new stock springs
> and probably go for better than stock as well as checking for bind
which I never did either. My roller cam will have dual springs and I
will be checking for bind for sure.

The consensus seems to be to have at least .100" clearance with the
piston throughout the cycle on both valves. That can mean that if
you break a timing chain the valves can hit and destroy the engine
> but as long as the timing chain or gears are intact it allows for
some float and some timing inconsistancys due to wear etc.. I
certainly wouldn't want any less than that :-)


The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 08:32:39 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: 351M Cam Timing

> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
> Subject: 351M Cam Timing
> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:09:24 -0500

> "some '70's and '80's 351M and 400M engines had their cam
> timing retarded for emissions purposes. Going back to the "0",
> or straight-up spec on these engines really wakes them up.

I was told that the change was made in 1971 and another one in 1973
on the 460's so the M's may follow the same schedule. I alway buy
cams and timing gear for pre 71 vintage motors for this reason.
Don't know how much of it is true but I do know they made some
serious changes it 73 to several models especially the 351W.


The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:10:36 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: too much cam?

no, i don't think it is too much. that size cam should run very well. as
for the springs, call the cam company - they'll tell you what spring
pressure you need, if you need more than stock. if the springs are old i
would replace them with all new hardare (springs, retainers, etc.)

you have to check for binding and "proper" geometry, but i think the stock
rockers are fine for that cam. you need to remove a spring and turn engine
> by hand with a indicator to check clearance, or remove head and use clay.

most importantly, GET A GOOD OIL PUMP SHAFT!!! really, it is worth the
money.

sleddog

- ----------
From: KEVIN[SMTP:oldsmo swbell.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 1997 6:01 PM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: too much cam?

Ok ya'll I own a '75 F100 explorer with a 390 automatic.I pulled the
motor and went thru it,while building it(to stock specs)i wanted a
little bigger cam.So I called City Motor Supply (here in DFW) and bought
ahigh pressure oil pump(opened the oil passage to 1/2 from 5/16 at the
oil pickup hole on the block and matched the pick up).
The cam I bought was a Melling (sae 282 int 292 exh.advertised
duration- 204int. 214exh .050 lash)valve lift .050 is=.486
int-512exh
I am using stock heads with a 390 4 barrel intake and a 4160
holley(750cfm vacumm secondaries)

is this too much?Will I need better than stock springs?How can I check
valve to piston clearence (the motor is already assembled)will I need
adj rocker arms?will a stock oil pumpdrive shaft be enough or will I
need a chrome moly one?is timing mars best at 6 12 o'clock or should
they be advanced or retarded?

thanks to all of you!!!!!!!!mongo






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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 09:21:10 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: 351M Cam Timing

the same change was made to the 460's. but, every company i have talked to
for cams mentioned that their cam should still be straight up. the
difference is already ground in. only moving the factory cam makes a
difference, as ford ground the cams 4 or so degrees off.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 1997 4:32 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Re: 351M Cam Timing

> From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
> Subject: 351M Cam Timing
> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:09:24 -0500

> "some '70's and '80's 351M and 400M engines had their cam
> timing retarded for emissions purposes. Going back to the "0",
> or straight-up spec on these engines really wakes them up.

I was told that the change was made in 1971 and another one in 1973
on the 460's so the M's may follow the same schedule. I alway buy
cams and timing gear for pre 71 vintage motors for this reason.
Don't know how much of it is true but I do know they made some....

---

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