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Date: Mon, 22 Sep 1997 03:50:16 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #233
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Monday, September 22 1997 Volume 01 : Number 233



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

heater controls??? [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["Lee Hardy" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP [Don Grossman ]
Re: Flathead Help [Dan Wentz ]
Re: heater controls??? ["deconblu" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [danadeb pacbell.net]
Re: too much cam? [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]

=======================================================================

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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:02:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: heater controls???

- -> heat controls???68 69?? 70??I've seen a 67 with knobs like the early
- -> broncos????My 68 has slides??Could my dash been swapped???

My '68 has slides. They're quite stiff. Has anyone tried a motorcycle
cable oiler or something? I'm always afraid I'm going to rip the
sliders out of the dash tugging on them.


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:35:00 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

- ----------
> From: Mustang262 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 12:42 PM
>
> take me off the list
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:43:48 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

- ----------
> From: Joseph B. Michels, Phd
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 10:35 AM
>
> HELP!! My 1952 F1 has been sitting for 2 years while I was overseas! It
ran
> before I parked it. I have installed a new battery, points, condenser,
> coil, fuel pump and fuel line, however, It still does not start. Does
not
> seem like it "fires" right? I have poured gas right down the throat of
the
> carbuerator, seemed to aid, however, think that I am doing something
wrong--
> this should not be difficult--the battery is new, however, I have ground
on
> it hard-- my thinking is to recharge it and see what happens-- it reads
6.7v
> without load, however, think that the constant trying has reduced it
> substantially when under load. My plan is to totally rebuild this,
however,
> want to get it to run before I tear it completely apart------ Please
> HELP!!!!!!1
>
> Joebob
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:43:55 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

- ----------
> From: Mustang262 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 12:42 PM
>
> take me off the list
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:44:20 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

- ----------
> From: Mustang262 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 12:42 PM
>
> take me off the list
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:44:01 -0400
From: "Lee Hardy"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

- ----------
> From: Mustang262 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 12:42 PM
>
> take me off the list
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:01:58 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

Are you trying to say something Lee?

- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:03:52 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

>The following is bad advise! Even modern 12v systems use resistors or
>resistor wire in the circuit. I agree with using a 12v coil, but don't
>remove the resistor. Of course, it may be bypassed for starting using a
>modern ignition wiring system.

I just double checked the wiring diagram in my manual. These systems
didn't use resistors. My coil actually says "do not use external resistor"
on it.

I don't get the idea that the original poster was talking about a typical
ignition resistor. It sounds like he's got a voltage reducer inline to the
coil--same as you'd use if you wanted to run other 6 volt devices on a 12
volt system.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:33:43 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Re: heater controls???

> My '68 has slides. They're quite stiff. Has anyone tried a motorcycle
>cable oiler or something? I'm always afraid I'm going to rip the
>sliders out of the dash tugging on them

I used a neat little device picked up at a motorcycle show. It's an
aluminum channel with a slit rubber hose in it, you clamp it on the cable
turn the thumb screw and it seals around the cable and housing. There is a
small hole to insert a straw. I used dry chain lube (my preference for my
motorcycles. it's not as messy and stays on the cables longer. nether of my
bikes have chains so I don't know how it works on them). The tool forces the
lubricant into the cable housing and comes out the other end completely
lubricating the cable. My controls slide with ease.



Deacon Blues
Visit my Homepage at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home1.gte.net/deconblu/
and http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.dragonfire.net/~site/tbirdknights/
or send me a fan or flame at deconblu gte.net not both. Never fan a flame!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:44:04 -0700
From: danadeb pacbell.net
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

I know this is going to sound crazy but:

A very long time ago I put a 289 in a 1963 ford van. ( boy that was a
fun van! 3200 lbs, 3:1 9" rear, 26" rear tires, short wheelbase, engine
fit well with minor floor notch, wheeeeeeeeeee! ) after the swap I had
heater problems. The only thing that seemed to work was (and I know this
does not make any sense ) to reverse the inlet and outlet hoses to the
heater core making sure that the inlet goes to the top side of the core
first. Then fill the coolant system through a funnel into the hose that
went to the top of the heater core. This seemed to fill the heater core.
( my guess, which still does not make any sense, was that the heater
core had an air bubble trapped in it ) after I did this the heater blew
lots of hot air.


sounds like the VW heater will, work but I just thought I would put in
my 2 hundredths of a dollars worth.

Any concerns about carbon monoxide with the VW heater?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:51:04 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: too much cam?

>Ok ya'll I own a '75 F100 explorer with a 390 automatic.I pulled the
>motor and went thru it,while building it(to stock specs)i wanted a
>little bigger cam.So I called City Motor Supply (here in DFW) and bought
>ahigh pressure oil pump(opened the oil passage to 1/2 from 5/16 at the
>oil pickup hole on the block and matched the pick up).
>The cam I bought was a Melling (sae 282 int 292 exh.advertised
>duration- 204int. 214exh .050 lash)valve lift .050 is=.486
>int-512exh
>I am using stock heads with a 390 4 barrel intake and a 4160
>holley(750cfm vacumm secondaries)
>
>is this too much?

Your cam should be just fine. I run a not-to-dissimilar cam in my 71 F100
w/ '73 FE390 and T-18 manual.

My cam specs are:
270/290 adv. duration, 208/218 .050", 112LSA, .465"I/.490"E
(Schnieder LSP-30H)
I run D3TE heads with air injection bumps removed, and a stock
D3TE 4-bbl manifold with edelbrock 600CFM carb.
1-3/4" headers, etc.
I like the cam just fine.
The intake manifold is about to be changed...

>
>Will I need better than stock springs?

Probably, the stock springs are marginal when new with a stock cam.
Old ones are not gonna like a high lift cam...
The recommended spring for my cam is 270-290lbs open, 100-110closed.
That's more than stock. Mine are actually brand "C" springs.

>How can I check
>valve to piston clearence (the motor is already assembled)

Ummm, pull the heads and check the clearances with clay?
Or try prayer and go for it... (I hear a plastic Jesus on the dash helps!)
Seriously, I'd probably pull the heads and check. You *should* be O.K. with
that lift, but....

>
>will I need adj rocker arms?

Mmmmaybe.. It depends on the cam base circle diameter, how much Your
heads have been milled (if any), whether You had a valve job and how much
the seats are recessed, etc.
Adjustables for FE are inexpensive and let You get the correct lifter
preload. I'd recommend them. I had to use adjustables with my setup, as
I had some lifters that were near their compressed limit.

>will a stock oil pumpdrive shaft be enough or will I
>need a chrome moly one?

The stock one should be O.K., but use a NEW one.
I suppose chromoly would be nice if Your wallet doesn't mind.

>is timing mars best at 6 12 o'clock or should
>they be advanced or retarded?

Cam timing? Start with it "straight up" unless the manufacturer recommends
different.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 23:31:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

- -> Wadda Ya think, a plug with about a 1/4" hole? That should restrict
- -> the area to about 1/4th of the "stock" (1/2") opening.

1/4" should be fine.

Also make sure that one of the heater hoses comes off the intake - the
water is hotter at the back, by the way - and the other hose goes to the
water pump. I saw one car where someone had run both hoses to the
intake manifold. They were routed quite nicely, but there was no
pressure differential to force water through the heater core.

I've also seen some that route the return water to the hose side of the
water neck instead of the water pump. That ensures all coolant goes
through the radiator instead of recirculating in the block, as it does
when you run the hose to the water pump. My 302-powered RX7 does that,....

---

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