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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:30:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #232
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Sunday, September 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 232



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Flathead Help [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Draining Yer 9"... ["George Shepherd" ]
pumping oil - rear end [Sleddog ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Flathead Help ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: Flathead Help ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Draining Yer 9"... [sdelanty sonic.net]
RE: Draining Yer 9"... [Sleddog ]
too much cam? [KEVIN ]
Re: Flathead Help [SJoG70 aol.com]
Re: heater controls??? ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
351M Cam Timing ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:05:19 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

In response to my '71 F100 w/FE390 heater woes (I freeze!),

MEB8100 aol.com writes:

>I just caught this as a new subscriber but do have some advice you may wish
>to consider:
>
>1. The radiator is likely large and cools alot during the winter. You can
>put a piece of cardboard in front to raise the temperature. This will help
>your gas mileage also.
>
>2. Make sure the thermostat is at least 190F. Any lower and it will run
>your engine too cool. This will help mileage a bit also.
>
>3. Make sure your coolant mixture isn't too "rich", this will cut down on
>the ability of the coolant to transfer heat off.


Thanks for the info..

My radiator IS large (and new), but I'm not sure that a piece of
cardboard would help. If the thermostat works correctly (it does) then
it should regulate the water flow thru the rad to keep a constant
temp, right? If part of the rad is blocked (reducing cooling), then the thermo
should just open a little more to let more water go thru...
The thermostat should keep the block coolant temp constant regardless of
radiator area. (Well, not if You block TOO much!)

I did run a 195F thermo last winter, and it helped the heater a little but
not enough. I really prefer (well, the 390 prefers..) a 180F thermo during
the summer. I will put the 195 back in next week when I change intake manifold.

I agree very much with Your statement about coolant mixture!
Glycol based coolants have very poor thermal conductivity, and can
drastically reduce Your engines ability to get rid of heat.
I run aprox 80% water, 20% glycol antifreeze, and a pint of Redline
"water wetter"(tm) in my system.
It works *much* better than when I used 50/50 glycol/water.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:36:55 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

> I have a 52 F-1 with a 239 flathead. The truck had been converted to a 12
>generator before I purchased the truck, after pulling the spark plugs I found
>they were covered with a black coating. So I talked to a plug company
>thinking I need a hotter heat range plug they gave me a number.Then I was
>talking to the the guy I got the truck from and he told me that he put a
>voltage reducer on the firewall to reduced the points to 6 volts because it
>was burning points about every 6 weeks. Can I get points that will take 12
>volts thus making my system hotter at the plug.

You don't need to reduce voltage to the points, as such, and that's one of
the great things about converting to 12 volts--hotter spark. The points
should be able to handle the higher voltage if you gap them correctly.
What you should do first is find that voltage reducer and take it out.
Then go down to your local auto parts store and get a 12 volt
coil--personally I'd suggest Standard but not everyone carries that brand.
Pick up points, condenser and plugs while you're there (I always had good
luck with Autolite in my Flathead). Then go home and install everything in
the usual manner (except that you can open up the plug gap a little more
than usual because of the hotter spark).

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:35:50 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Draining Yer 9"...

It is a lot easier to buy a pump from J C Whitney and suck it dry. Pump is
handy for other things also.

- ----------
> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Draining Yer 9"...
> Date: Saturday, September 20, 1997 11:11 PM
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever added a drain plug to Your 9" so You can
change
> the juice with less hassle?
>
> I'm thinking of drilling a hole in mine at the back of the housing near
> the bottom, and welding in a 1/4" pipe fitting so I can have a drain
plug.
>
> Any thoughts, words of wisdom, or horror stories before I do such a
thing?
>
> Dreaming of clean fluid,
>
> Steve Delanty
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:50:02 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: pumping oil - rear end

when i went to empty my rear last time, i pulled the yoke off. this
allowed much of the oil to drip down which i filtered thru 2 coffee filters
into a can. i reused this oil. much of the rest of the oil that came out
when i removed the third member i also filtered and reused. (there was
less than 100 miles on this oil) the filtered coffee, oops oil, looked
brand new.

i used to fill the rear a pump that i got at my girlfreinds ice cream
store. the pump is for ice cream toppings or such and pumped the 80 wt oil
fine. it is a hand pump. i filled the rear in about 3 minutes with no
mess. i am sure other kinds of pumps work. this worked better than the
hose on the bottle spout deal i was using before. microwaving the oil
seamed to help it pour easier though.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:51:03 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

>HELP!! My 1952 F1 has been sitting for 2 years while I was overseas! It ran
>before I parked it. I have installed a new battery, points, condenser,
>coil, fuel pump and fuel line, however, It still does not start. Does not
>seem like it "fires" right?

Yikes! For some reason I always hated this kind of problem about a million
times more when it happened on my flathead. A bad coil will give you the
idea that it isn't firing right. Check to make sure you have good ground
inside the distributor. When I first got my truck it wouldn't start and I
had replaced everything ignition related--then I looked under the breaker
plate and saw that the ground wire wasn't connected at one end--took 5
minutes to fix. Probably the most basic thing to check though, is timing
(especially since you changed the points). Turn the distributor a few
degrees (can't remember if you advance or retard, but you'll quilcly figure
it out) and try starting. I'm betting that it'll start then, and after
that you can set the timing and adjust the carb and you'll be ready to go.
On the off chance that it's fuel related--sounds like you've replaced
everything that could cause a problem there. Check your fuel pump
pushrod--they get shorter as they wear and therefore don't work as well.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:53:18 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

It isn't just changing the points, you will need to change to a full 12v
system including dropping resistor type ignition switch and 12 v coil. I
don't think it will cure the black coating. You might want to get a hotter
coil and try changing the jets.

- ----------
> From: Flathead52 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Flathead Help
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 9:08 AM
>
> I have a 52 F-1 with a 239 flathead. The truck had been converted to a
12
> generator before I purchased the truck, after pulling the spark plugs I
found
> they were covered with a black coating. So I talked to a plug company
> thinking I need a hotter heat range plug they gave me a number.Then I was
> talking to the the guy I got the truck from and he told me that he put a
> voltage reducer on the firewall to reduced the points to 6 volts because
it
> was burning points about every 6 weeks. Can I get points that will take
12
> volts thus making my system hotter at the plug.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:05:34 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

Difficult to diagnose over the web. Remove all spark plugs and squirt oil
into the holes. Check spark plugs to make sure they are firing. Dissemble
Carb, install new kit. Make sure floats work properly. Discharging and
recharging the battery should not affect it. Make sure you have the ground
correct. Some time in early 50s Fords still had positive ground. We cranked
one backwards for a week until some body pointed out the error of our
battery polarity.

Put 2 six volt batteries in parallel to boost cranking power.

Does it spit, puff, or backfire at all?


- ----------
> From: Joseph B. Michels, Phd
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 9:35 AM
>
> HELP!! My 1952 F1 has been sitting for 2 years while I was overseas! It
ran
> before I parked it. I have installed a new battery, points, condenser,
> coil, fuel pump and fuel line, however, It still does not start. Does
not
> seem like it "fires" right? I have poured gas right down the throat of
the
> carbuerator, seemed to aid, however, think that I am doing something
wrong--
> this should not be difficult--the battery is new, however, I have ground
on
> it hard-- my thinking is to recharge it and see what happens-- it reads
6.7v
> without load, however, think that the constant trying has reduced it
> substantially when under load. My plan is to totally rebuild this,
however,
> want to get it to run before I tear it completely apart------ Please
> HELP!!!!!!1
>
> Joebob
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:09:45 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

- ----------
> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 1:05 PM
>
>
> In response to my '71 F100 w/FE390 heater woes (I freeze!),
>
> MEB8100 aol.com writes:
>
> >I just caught this as a new subscriber but do have some advice you may
wish
> >to consider:
> >
> >1. The radiator is likely large and cools alot during the winter. You
can
> >put a piece of cardboard in front to raise the temperature. This will
help
> >your gas mileage also.
> >
> >2. Make sure the thermostat is at least 190F. Any lower and it will
run
> >your engine too cool. This will help mileage a bit also.
> >
> >3. Make sure your coolant mixture isn't too "rich", this will cut down
on
> >the ability of the coolant to transfer heat off.
>
>
> Thanks for the info..
>
> My radiator IS large (and new), but I'm not sure that a piece of
> cardboard would help. If the thermostat works correctly (it does) then
> it should regulate the water flow thru the rad to keep a constant
> temp, right? If part of the rad is blocked (reducing cooling), then the
thermo
> should just open a little more to let more water go thru...


Thermostat is really an open or shut device-not a good regulator. Ever see
the big rigs with their radiator covers in winter? Block half of the
radiator.



> The thermostat should keep the block coolant temp constant regardless of
> radiator area. (Well, not if You block TOO much!)
>
> I did run a 195F thermo last winter, and it helped the heater a little
but
> not enough. I really prefer (well, the 390 prefers..) a 180F thermo
during
> the summer. I will put the 195 back in next week when I change intake
manifold.
>
> I agree very much with Your statement about coolant mixture!
> Glycol based coolants have very poor thermal conductivity, and can
> drastically reduce Your engines ability to get rid of heat.
> I run aprox 80% water, 20% glycol antifreeze, and a pint of Redline
> "water wetter"(tm) in my system.
> It works *much* better than when I used 50/50 glycol/water.
>
> Happy motoring,
>
> Steve Delanty
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:12:47 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

The following is bad advise! Even modern 12v systems use resistors or
resistor wire in the circuit. I agree with using a 12v coil, but don't
remove the resistor. Of course, it may be bypassed for starting using a
modern ignition wiring system.

- ----------
> From: Dan Wentz
> To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
> Cc: Flathead52 aol.com
> Subject: Re: Flathead Help
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 1:36 PM
>
> > I have a 52 F-1 with a 239 flathead. The truck had been converted to a
12
> >generator before I purchased the truck, after pulling the spark plugs I
found
> >they were covered with a black coating. So I talked to a plug company
> >thinking I need a hotter heat range plug they gave me a number.Then I
was
> >talking to the the guy I got the truck from and he told me that he put a
> >voltage reducer on the firewall to reduced the points to 6 volts because
it
> >was burning points about every 6 weeks. Can I get points that will take
12
> >volts thus making my system hotter at the plug.
>
> You don't need to reduce voltage to the points, as such, and that's one
of
> the great things about converting to 12 volts--hotter spark. The points
> should be able to handle the higher voltage if you gap them correctly.
> What you should do first is find that voltage reducer and take it out.
> Then go down to your local auto parts store and get a 12 volt
> coil--personally I'd suggest Standard but not everyone carries that
brand.
> Pick up points, condenser and plugs while you're there (I always had good
> luck with Autolite in my Flathead). Then go home and install everything
in
> the usual manner (except that you can open up the plug gap a little more
> than usual because of the hotter spark).
>
> ~Dan
>
> 1992 Ford Mustang LX
> 1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
> Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:48:31 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

>- -> It's funny, from the people I've talked with, the 302 guys seem to
>- -> think the early
>- -> truck heaters work good, while many FE truck owners think the heater
>- -> is marginal..

>
> My '68 was originally a 240 six. As far as I know all the heaters were
>the same.

Yeah, my '71 came with a 240/6 also, but... (-:


> The Olds has a short hose in front for the heater bypass just like most
>Ford V8s. The bypass flow is evidently enough to keep the engine from
>warming up completely in cold weather.
>
> You might want to do some rerouting of the hoses on your '71. Putting
>a restrictor in the bypass would force more water through the heater.

Dave! I think You've hit it!
The problem isn't that the coolant isn't hot enough, it seems to be a
flow problem. I even thought of adding an electric "booster pump" in
the heater lines.
I'll bet that restricting the bypass would help a lot!
The only problem is that, being FE, the bypass hose is only 2" long, and
You've gotta remove the water pump to restrict it. )-:
Oh well, I'm gonna change the intake next week, so it's a good time to
try it.
Wadda Ya think, a plug with about a 1/4" hole? That should restrict the
area to about 1/4th of the "stock" (1/2") opening.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:48:34 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: Draining Yer 9"...

>i was just thinking of the same thing yesterday! drill a hole and weld a
>nut to the outside was my idea. using a standard oilpan drain plug bolt.
> maybe a magnetic one.

Yeah, that's it. I was gonna cut a 1/4 steel pipe coupling in half and
weld it to the outside near the bottom and use a pipe plug in it.
A nut and drain plug bolt would work good also.
The magnetic plug is good idea. Used to use 'em on VW's.

>i swap diffs enough that i should have done this
>years ago but each time i swap, i say to myself, "self, i won't need it,
>this is the last time i swap diffs."
>
>sleddog

I try not to break mine too often, so it may be decades between oil changes!
With the trac-loc rear, it seems like a good idea to change the juice
regularly to get the worn clutchs bits out of the works...

Any ideas on where to put or not to put the plug?

I figured in the rear, facing straight back right near the bottom.
Where the flat flange of the rear cover is welded to the housing and
about dead center side to side.
Is there anything particularly "bad" about this spot?
I figure to drill a small (1/8") hole first, let the juice drain out for
a day, then probe around with a wire to make sure I'm not gonna wreck
anything inside when I drill a bigger hole for the plug.
If it looks like a "bad" place, then I'll just use the MIG welder to fix
the small hole and look for a new place.

Any suggestions from folks who have been inside a 9"..?
Sleddog, You must have one or 2 apart on Your garage floor!
(or living room floor? :-)
Where's a good spot for the plug?

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 17:27:11 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Draining Yer 9"...

i say put it on the bottom on the side. not on the side where the ring
gear is, but on the passenger side. you know where the ring gear is - on
the rear of the pumpkin there is a big bubble that is for ring gear
clearance. there should be enough room there to drill.

but, if it where me, i would remove the center section so all drill chips
could be removed. using grease on the drill bit can hold the chips from
getting in there to much, but really the only way to be sure is to take it
apart. about 1 hour you should be able to have the axles out and the
center section out.

sleddog

- ----------
From: sdelanty sonic.net[SMTP:sdelanty sonic.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 1997 3:48 PM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Re: Draining Yer 9"...


Any suggestions from folks who have been inside a 9"..?
Sleddog, You must have one or 2 apart on Your garage floor!
(or living room floor? :-)
Where's a good spot for the plug?

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 17:01:05 -0500
From: KEVIN
Subject: too much cam?

Ok ya'll I own a '75 F100 explorer with a 390 automatic.I pulled the
motor and went thru it,while building it(to stock specs)i wanted a
little bigger cam.So I called City Motor Supply (here in DFW) and bought
ahigh pressure oil pump(opened the oil passage to 1/2 from 5/16 at the
oil pickup hole on the block and matched the pick up).
The cam I bought was a Melling (sae 282 int 292 exh.advertised
duration- 204int. 214exh .050 lash)valve lift .050 is=.486
int-512exh
I am using stock heads with a 390 4 barrel intake and a 4160
holley(750cfm vacumm secondaries)

is this too much?Will I need better than stock springs?How can I check
valve to piston clearence (the motor is already assembled)will I need
adj rocker arms?will a stock oil pumpdrive shaft be enough or will I
need a chrome moly one?is timing mars best at 6 12 o'clock or should
they be advanced or retarded?

thanks to all of you!!!!!!!!mongo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 18:19:34 -0400 (EDT)
From: SJoG70 aol.com
Subject: Re: Flathead Help



------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 19:47:34 PDT
From: "MICHAEL FRISCH"
Subject: Re: heater controls???

>When did ford change over from the round knobs to the slider type for
>heat controls???68 69?? 70??I've seen a 67 with knobs like the early
>broncos????My 68 has slides??Could my dash been swapped???
>Joe 68 f100


Joe, I have a '70 F100 and I hhave sliders... Now only if I could get
them to work, but I live in L.A. so heat is not needed all that much..

Mike

______________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 22:09:24 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: 351M Cam Timing

Was browsing through back issues of Ford Truckin' today and found something
that caught my interest. In the Summer '96 issue there is a camshaft tech
article by Jim Allen, he makes the following statement:

"some '70's and '80's 351M and 400M engines had their cam
timing retarded for emissions purposes. Going back to the "0",
or straight-up spec on these engines really wakes them up.


Dave R. you're the M-block wiz around here. What years did Ford do this?
Have you ever made this change with the stock cam? Other comments anyone?

dale c

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:00:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

- -> I bet you could remove and block the bypass altogether and let the
- -> heater core take care of pre-warm block circulation and get that
- -> heater working like it was designed to??? :-)
- ->
- -> Probably be kind of warm in the summer though. Maybe that's why they
- -> had valves in them? :-)

Almost certainly, though many older cars and trucks let water continue....

---

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