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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 21:30:34 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #232
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Sunday, September 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 232



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Flathead Help [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Draining Yer 9"... ["George Shepherd" ]
pumping oil - rear end [Sleddog ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP [Dan Wentz ]
Re: Flathead Help ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: Flathead Help ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [sdelanty sonic.net]
Re: Draining Yer 9"... [sdelanty sonic.net]
RE: Draining Yer 9"... [Sleddog ]
too much cam? [KEVIN ]
Re: Flathead Help [SJoG70 aol.com]
Re: heater controls??? ["MICHAEL FRISCH" ]
351M Cam Timing ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]

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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:05:19 -0700
From: sdelanty sonic.net
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

In response to my '71 F100 w/FE390 heater woes (I freeze!),

MEB8100 aol.com writes:

>I just caught this as a new subscriber but do have some advice you may wish
>to consider:
>
>1. The radiator is likely large and cools alot during the winter. You can
>put a piece of cardboard in front to raise the temperature. This will help
>your gas mileage also.
>
>2. Make sure the thermostat is at least 190F. Any lower and it will run
>your engine too cool. This will help mileage a bit also.
>
>3. Make sure your coolant mixture isn't too "rich", this will cut down on
>the ability of the coolant to transfer heat off.


Thanks for the info..

My radiator IS large (and new), but I'm not sure that a piece of
cardboard would help. If the thermostat works correctly (it does) then
it should regulate the water flow thru the rad to keep a constant
temp, right? If part of the rad is blocked (reducing cooling), then the thermo
should just open a little more to let more water go thru...
The thermostat should keep the block coolant temp constant regardless of
radiator area. (Well, not if You block TOO much!)

I did run a 195F thermo last winter, and it helped the heater a little but
not enough. I really prefer (well, the 390 prefers..) a 180F thermo during
the summer. I will put the 195 back in next week when I change intake manifold.

I agree very much with Your statement about coolant mixture!
Glycol based coolants have very poor thermal conductivity, and can
drastically reduce Your engines ability to get rid of heat.
I run aprox 80% water, 20% glycol antifreeze, and a pint of Redline
"water wetter"(tm) in my system.
It works *much* better than when I used 50/50 glycol/water.

Happy motoring,

Steve Delanty


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:36:55 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

> I have a 52 F-1 with a 239 flathead. The truck had been converted to a 12
>generator before I purchased the truck, after pulling the spark plugs I found
>they were covered with a black coating. So I talked to a plug company
>thinking I need a hotter heat range plug they gave me a number.Then I was
>talking to the the guy I got the truck from and he told me that he put a
>voltage reducer on the firewall to reduced the points to 6 volts because it
>was burning points about every 6 weeks. Can I get points that will take 12
>volts thus making my system hotter at the plug.

You don't need to reduce voltage to the points, as such, and that's one of
the great things about converting to 12 volts--hotter spark. The points
should be able to handle the higher voltage if you gap them correctly.
What you should do first is find that voltage reducer and take it out.
Then go down to your local auto parts store and get a 12 volt
coil--personally I'd suggest Standard but not everyone carries that brand.
Pick up points, condenser and plugs while you're there (I always had good
luck with Autolite in my Flathead). Then go home and install everything in
the usual manner (except that you can open up the plug gap a little more
than usual because of the hotter spark).

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:35:50 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Draining Yer 9"...

It is a lot easier to buy a pump from J C Whitney and suck it dry. Pump is
handy for other things also.

- ----------
> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Draining Yer 9"...
> Date: Saturday, September 20, 1997 11:11 PM
>
>
> Has anyone out there ever added a drain plug to Your 9" so You can
change
> the juice with less hassle?
>
> I'm thinking of drilling a hole in mine at the back of the housing near
> the bottom, and welding in a 1/4" pipe fitting so I can have a drain
plug.
>
> Any thoughts, words of wisdom, or horror stories before I do such a
thing?
>
> Dreaming of clean fluid,
>
> Steve Delanty
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:50:02 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: pumping oil - rear end

when i went to empty my rear last time, i pulled the yoke off. this
allowed much of the oil to drip down which i filtered thru 2 coffee filters
into a can. i reused this oil. much of the rest of the oil that came out
when i removed the third member i also filtered and reused. (there was
less than 100 miles on this oil) the filtered coffee, oops oil, looked
brand new.

i used to fill the rear a pump that i got at my girlfreinds ice cream
store. the pump is for ice cream toppings or such and pumped the 80 wt oil
fine. it is a hand pump. i filled the rear in about 3 minutes with no
mess. i am sure other kinds of pumps work. this worked better than the
hose on the bottle spout deal i was using before. microwaving the oil
seamed to help it pour easier though.

sleddog

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:51:03 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

>HELP!! My 1952 F1 has been sitting for 2 years while I was overseas! It ran
>before I parked it. I have installed a new battery, points, condenser,
>coil, fuel pump and fuel line, however, It still does not start. Does not
>seem like it "fires" right?

Yikes! For some reason I always hated this kind of problem about a million
times more when it happened on my flathead. A bad coil will give you the
idea that it isn't firing right. Check to make sure you have good ground
inside the distributor. When I first got my truck it wouldn't start and I
had replaced everything ignition related--then I looked under the breaker
plate and saw that the ground wire wasn't connected at one end--took 5
minutes to fix. Probably the most basic thing to check though, is timing
(especially since you changed the points). Turn the distributor a few
degrees (can't remember if you advance or retard, but you'll quilcly figure
it out) and try starting. I'm betting that it'll start then, and after
that you can set the timing and adjust the carb and you'll be ready to go.
On the off chance that it's fuel related--sounds like you've replaced
everything that could cause a problem there. Check your fuel pump
pushrod--they get shorter as they wear and therefore don't work as well.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:53:18 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Flathead Help

It isn't just changing the points, you will need to change to a full 12v
system including dropping resistor type ignition switch and 12 v coil. I
don't think it will cure the black coating. You might want to get a hotter
coil and try changing the jets.

- ----------
> From: Flathead52 aol.com
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Flathead Help
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 9:08 AM
>
> I have a 52 F-1 with a 239 flathead. The truck had been converted to a
12
> generator before I purchased the truck, after pulling the spark plugs I
found
> they were covered with a black coating. So I talked to a plug company
> thinking I need a hotter heat range plug they gave me a number.Then I was
> talking to the the guy I got the truck from and he told me that he put a
> voltage reducer on the firewall to reduced the points to 6 volts because
it
> was burning points about every 6 weeks. Can I get points that will take
12
> volts thus making my system hotter at the plug.
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 14:05:34 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

Difficult to diagnose over the web. Remove all spark plugs and squirt oil
into the holes. Check spark plugs to make sure they are firing. Dissemble
Carb, install new kit. Make sure floats work properly. Discharging and
recharging the battery should not affect it. Make sure you have the ground
correct. Some time in early 50s Fords still had positive ground. We cranked
one backwards for a week until some body pointed out the error of our
battery polarity.

Put 2 six volt batteries in parallel to boost cranking power.

Does it spit, puff, or backfire at all?


- ----------
> From: Joseph B. Michels, Phd
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: 1952 F1 HELP
> Date: Sunday, September 21, 1997 9:35 AM
>
> HELP!! My 1952 F1 has been sitting for 2 years while I was overseas! It
ran
> before I parked it. I have installed a new battery, points, condenser,
> coil, fuel pump and fuel line, however, It still does not start. Does
not
> seem like it "fires" right? I have poured gas right down the throat of
the
> carbuerator, seemed to aid, however, think that I am doing something
wrong--
> this should not be difficult--the battery is new, however, I have ground
on
> it hard-- my thinking is to recharge it and see what happens-- it reads
6.7v
> without load, however, think that the constant trying has reduced it
> substantially when under load. My plan is to totally rebuild this,
however,
> want to get it to run before I tear it completely apart------ Please
> HELP!!!!!!1
>
> Joebob
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request....

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