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Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 11:50:30 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #231
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Sunday, September 21 1997 Volume 01 : Number 231



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

RE: semi-metallic shoes ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Acronym ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Draining Yer 9"... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Assorted questions ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: ADMIN: List split information ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Synthetic Oil ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Drain plug info... [FORDTRKNUT aol.com]
RE: Seat Cover sources ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
BTUs 'R' Us..! [dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)]
heater controls??? [Joe D ]
Flathead Help [Flathead52 aol.com]
Re: BTUs 'R' Us..! ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: heater controls??? [DC Beatty ]
RE: semi-metallic shoes [DC Beatty ]
Re: ADMIN: New list [Mustang262 aol.com]
Re: heater controls??? [Mustang262 aol.com]
1952 F1 HELP [joebob lobo.net (Joseph B. Michels, Phd)]
Re: 1952 F1 HELP [Mustang262 aol.com]
RE: the brady bunch 9" differential [Sleddog ]
RE: the brady bunch 9" differential [Sleddog ]
RE: Draining Yer 9"... [Sleddog ]
RE: Draining Yer 9"... [Sleddog ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 07:41:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: semi-metallic shoes

> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 22:35:47 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: semi-metallic shoes

> in the wallet. I paid $55 for one set!!! And now they squeal!!!
> Arrrggghhh!!!

Just occured to me that if squeal is primarily caused by loose pads
on disc brakes maybe there is something not quite seated in the drum?
Maybe the shoes aren't being pulled all the way into the lugs by the
springs so there is a little chatter on application? Just a thought
:-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 07:45:53 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Acronym

> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:22:04 -0500
> From: Daver
> Subject: Re: Acronym

> > Chevy Chevy there the Best drive a mile and walk the Rest...Ford
> > The BEST never Rest..........
> >
> > JOe
>
> I'd rather push a ford than drive a chevy.

Carry some tools and a few parts and you won't even have to do that
:-) My coil came off after passing every one on the road and coming
to a 4 way stop I could't keep the dang thing running long enough to
get through the intersection. Had my trusty 9/16 box end handy and
tightened the bolt back down (while hundreds of cars streamed past
my open door) and off we went :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 07:51:34 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Draining Yer 9"...

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 21:11:40 -0700
> Subject: Draining Yer 9"...

> I'm thinking of drilling a hole in mine at the back of the housing
> near the bottom, and welding in a 1/4" pipe fitting so I can have a
> drain plug.

Never done it because I leave mine it till it dies and then change it
when I rebuild about every 200k miles or so :-) Course I don't race
or pull so if you feel it's necessary then why not drill a hole
directly into the housing and tap it with a pipe tap? Maybe the
bottom isn't a good place since it might weaken the "truss" effect of
the casting, don't know?

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 07:59:47 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Assorted questions

> From: danadeb pacbell.net
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 23:18:21 -0700
> Subject: Re: Assorted questions

> If my memory serves me correctly a 1957 to 1959 ford 9" rear end out
> of a pick-up is a direct bolt, in size wise. ( "U" joints may be an
> issue but I am pretty sure you can find a set that will work or you
> have to change the input yoke on the rear end, something like that.
> ) Also be sure to get the "U" bolts and plate that mount the axial
> to the spring. I did the same swap about 15 years ago on a 56 and I
> think it will work on a 54.

Truck frames have been 34" wide for a long time. I put a 48 GMC bus
axle with dual 20" tires on the back of a 68 F-100 and made up a
drive shaft from the bus and the front spline slipped right into the
Ford midship bearing spline. I couldn't believe it! I just
unrivited the shackle brackets from the frame and welded the whole
thing from the bus on to the Ford. Worked like a charm :-) Got to
pay close attention to set back when putting them on this way though.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 08:11:49 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: ADMIN: List split information

> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 17:49:48 -0400
> From: Ken Payne
> Subject: ADMIN: List split information

> If you want to be on the 1960 and older list in addition to or
> instead of the 1961-1979/1980+ lists, I need the following
> information:

I don't have problem with the address since Pegasus automatically
puts in the address from which it came and saves all unique addresses
for me when I reply so I can always dig it back up. We should all be
using Pegasus, it sure works well for me and it's prettier than
Microsoft stuff :-) I guess some folks are stuck with some network
thing their systems gave them :-(

I would like to stay on both older lists in live mode, thanks :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 08:57:37 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil

> From: "deconblu"
> Subject: Re: Synthetic Oil
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 13:32:04 -0700

> So what was the lie that you seen at the links that were on my
> post? Or
> was this just off the cuff!

Just a general observation, didn' t mean to imply that was a bad
thing to do, just that if you read Split fire adds and Borla adds and
if you've ever tried some of these (I haven't but certainly have read
a lot of personal reports on them) products you will see what I mean.
Mobil has some good general information but you can't believe all
their claims or comparisons any more than splt fire's. My comment
was just a reminder that we have to sift through the stuff to get to
the meat no matter what product we're looking at. I wasn't implying
that you were wrong or the information wasn't appreciated, sorry :-(

The FAQ I was refering to had generic information on the additives,
interactions of additives, environmental impacts and other properties
and then rated the various oils based on these properties. I didn't
find this kind of information on the Mobil site but I didn't look at
every link so maybe I missed it. The tractor FAQ also had some test
comparisons but I can't remember all the stuff except that the
components of Mobil and Penzoil were similar and both were distinct
from the others in these properties. Can't remember if Red Line was
in there or not, sorry I was just comparing Mobil with Penzoil at the
time :-(

As I said, these are good sources of good info, just be from Missouri
when you go there :-) I've gotten over 100k out of all my vehicles
for many years no matter what oil I've used but I like the synthetics
the best due to longer oil change frequencies. I still change every
3k or so but the added insurance of the longer life sure doesn't hurt
when you don't get around to it right away :-)

BTW, Mobil1 is probably the best you can buy but Red Line could be
just as good and Penzoil is so close that I couldn't see switching
for an additional $3/qt. so I stayed with Penzoil. I wish I hadn't
lost that URL, you'd love to see that one I'm sure since it gives you
all the additives by chemical name and trade name, what they do etc.
and who has how much of each so you can compare for yourself. I
don't like them to tell me it's rated for this or that and will do
this or that, I like to see a description of the additives, their
interactions etc. and make up my own mind who's doing it right but
that's just my personal view :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:05:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: Re: Drain plug info...

The drain plug was removed by FORD in the early 60's I think. The cost to
manufacture, punch the hole in the housing, & weld it in was small per
rear...but it added up to big bucks. An engineer that worked at my company
told me about it. He worked at FORD for many years until he came to our
company....he drives a 1968 or 1969 429SCJ Torino to work every day!!!! Well
gotta go and organize the garage....AGAIN!!! Wayne Grabley

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 09:15:29 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: Seat Cover sources

> From: jack fleming
> Subject: RE: Seat Cover sources
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 19:18:57 -0400

> Sorry for the delay, I've been traveling on business. I haven't
> found anything yet to use for my truck's seat covers. When I said
> covers, what I meant was some type of "kit" that would enable me to
> rehab the seat with "like new" materials. Custom Interiors claims
> to have a line of these things available, but I still haven't gotten
> anything from them (after calling them twice)...I'll keep you posted
> on what I find. Jack

I was going to do that too but decided that by the time I buy the
covers and hope they are large enough to fit properly and replace the
foam and fix the springs I could have it done by a competent
reupolstery shop. I even had the "S" clips to do it myself but gave
up after pricing the covers :-(

BTW, your notes are coming in as binarys of unknown format which
Pegasus can read but requires several extra steps to see the text.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 05:29:00 -0500
From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
Subject: BTUs 'R' Us..!

- -> It's funny, from the people I've talked with, the 302 guys seem to
- -> think the early
- -> truck heaters work good, while many FE truck owners think the heater
- -> is marginal..

My '68 was originally a 240 six. As far as I know all the heaters were
the same. It now has a '65 330 Olds engine and the heater works just
fine, even though the water temp won't go over 150-160F (with a 180
thermostat) on a 25-30F day. No engine fan, 16" Derale electric mounted
ahead of the radiator. Radiator is from for a 427 FE dump truck, four
row, and it fills the core support from splash panel to hood, frame rail
to frame rail. I trimmed about 6" from the core support opening to
match it up to the radiator.

The Olds has a short hose in front for the heater bypass just like most
Ford V8s. The bypass flow is evidently enough to keep the engine from
warming up completely in cold weather.

You might want to do some rerouting of the hoses on your '71. Putting
a restrictor in the bypass would force more water through the heater.

====dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us========================DoD#978=======
can you help me...help me get out of this place?...slow sedation...
ain't my style, ain't my pace...giving me a number...NINE, SEVEN, EIGHT
==5.0 RX7 -> Tyrannosaurus RX! == SAE '82 == Denizens of Doom M/C '92==


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:05:22 -0400
From: Joe D
Subject: heater controls???

When did ford change over from the round knobs to the slider type for
heat controls???68 69?? 70??I've seen a 67 with knobs like the early
broncos????My 68 has slides??Could my dash been swapped???
Joe 68 f100

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:08:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: Flathead52 aol.com
Subject: Flathead Help

I have a 52 F-1 with a 239 flathead. The truck had been converted to a 12
generator before I purchased the truck, after pulling the spark plugs I found
they were covered with a black coating. So I talked to a plug company
thinking I need a hotter heat range plug they gave me a number.Then I was
talking to the the guy I got the truck from and he told me that he put a
voltage reducer on the firewall to reduced the points to 6 volts because it
was burning points about every 6 weeks. Can I get points that will take 12
volts thus making my system hotter at the plug.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:12:27 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: BTUs 'R' Us..!

> Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 05:29:00 -0500
> From: dave.williams chaos.lrk.ar.us (Dave Williams)
> Subject: BTUs 'R' Us..!

> You might want to do some rerouting of the hoses on your '71.
> Putting
> a restrictor in the bypass would force more water through the
> heater.

I forgot about that, older ones did have an extra hose to bypass the
heater but they also had valving in them to switch back and forth.
The newer ones including the 460 don't have any bypass at all and the
heater acts as the block circulation before the thermostat opens.

I bet you could remove and block the bypass altogether and let the
heater core take care of pre-warm block circulation and get that
heater working like it was designed to??? :-)

Probably be kind of warm in the summer though. Maybe that's why they
had valves in them? :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:19:28 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: heater controls???

Joe; =

I'm pretty sure they changed them in '68. My '67 has the knobs, and the '=
68
up I see at the junkyards all have the slide thing. I *think* yours are
right. =


DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

You wrote: =


heat controls???68 69?? 70??I've seen a 67 with knobs like the early
broncos????My 68 has slides??Could my dash been swapped???
Joe 68 f100>>>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:19:31 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: semi-metallic shoes

Could be. I guess all squeaks are vibrations. I seems to only squeal abou=
t
the last 20 feet of the stop. It doesn't make any noise when first applie=
d.
Hmmmmm....

DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302

> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 22:35:47 -0400
> From: DC Beatty
> Subject: RE: semi-metallic shoes

> in the wallet. I paid $55 for one set!!! And now they squeal!!!
> Arrrggghhh!!!

Just occured to me that if squeal is primarily caused by loose pads =

on disc brakes maybe there is something not quite seated in the drum? =

Maybe the shoes aren't being pulled all the way into the lugs by the =

springs so there is a little chatter on application? Just a thought =

:-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:19:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mustang262 aol.com
Subject: Re: ADMIN: New list

stop sending this ford trucks stuff

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:23:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mustang262 aol.com
Subject: Re: heater controls???

stop sending me stuff, take me off the list

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 10:35:11 -0400
From: joebob lobo.net (Joseph B. Michels, Phd)
Subject: 1952 F1 HELP

HELP!! My 1952 F1 has been sitting for 2 years while I was overseas! It ran
before I parked it. I have installed a new battery, points, condenser,
coil, fuel pump and fuel line, however, It still does not start. Does not
seem like it "fires" right? I have poured gas right down the throat of the
carbuerator, seemed to aid, however, think that I am doing something wrong--
this should not be difficult--the battery is new, however, I have ground on
it hard-- my thinking is to recharge it and see what happens-- it reads 6.7v
without load, however, think that the constant trying has reduced it
substantially when under load. My plan is to totally rebuild this, however,
want to get it to run before I tear it completely apart------ Please
HELP!!!!!!1

Joebob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 12:42:45 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mustang262 aol.com
Subject: Re: 1952 F1 HELP

take me off the list

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:05:37 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: the brady bunch 9" differential

he most likely has a dana 70 axle. i have a 70 and 60 front here to swap
if i decide to do so. running half ton suspension has its good points if i
can keep them together. they are lighter so i can add wheight to the front
where i need it and also get into lighter wheight classes where there is
less competition. a 9" also take less HP to turn - any saved power is free
power. so at this point i will try to keep running the 1/2 ton until i
can't make it work anymore.

last night i pulled on my newly rebuilt 9" (gears so rusty that they barely
turned, so rebuilt rightnow means i cleaned the rust and ran it!) and it
pulled fine actually smoked the 33" bfg muds down the track. it was a hard
track and i couldn't get a bite. but the rear held.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Brett McCoy[SMTP:brettmcc worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Friday, September 19, 1997 11:22 PM
To: fordtrucks
Subject: RE: the brady bunch 9" differential

Sleddog, you said,

> I am not saying the 9" is a bad axle -
>
>so far I have broke every possible piece of the drivetrain except front
>axle shafts, transfer case, drive shaft. every yoke, universal, or other
>part including the tranny has given way at some point. i keep finding
>another weak link each time i fix one. and next year i am sure will be
>worse as i plan on having at least 100-150 more HP on tap and improved
>traction.

A pal of mine as an early '70's F-350 crew cab. He just rebuilt his rear
end because he wanted to get to a better gear ratio. When I was looking at
that this I was impressed. It's just Huge!! He has the dually setup on
his truck. If you don't need to run really wide tires why not look into a
rear end like that. You should be able to pick on up in a junk yard from a
F-350 or even a tow truck. Then you could run larger U-joints as well. By
the way, do you only use four wheel drive on the dirt pulls? If so then
you should be able to run close to the same gear ratio in front and back
without them being an exact match. As long as they are close I don't think
you will bind up the transfer case. Other wise a good axle truss may help
the 9" to hold up longer. I would think that your problems are coming more
from axle wind-up then from a lack of strength in the parts. Just a
thought.

- -B








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:07:57 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: the brady bunch 9" differential

no, won't break, but remember they are heavy! takes alot of extra power to
turn them and extra power to stop them. handling would be worse also with
all that unsprung weight.

sleddog


- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Saturday, September 20, 1997 4:02 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: RE: the brady bunch 9" differential

> From: "Brett McCoy"
> Subject: RE: the brady bunch 9" differential
> Date: Fri, 19 Sep 1997 22:22:27 -0500

> pick on up in a junk yard from a F-350 or even a tow truck. Then
> you could run larger U-joints as well. By the way, do you only use
> four wheel drive on the dirt pulls? If so then you should be able

Where does one find gears, bearings, axles and other parts for a 2.5
ton military axle? I've thought about these but they are SO BIG! I
can't really imagine fitting them under my bronco and keeping the
same ride height :-) (bet they wouldn't break tho)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:23:18 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Draining Yer 9"...

i was just thinking of the same thing yesterday! drill a hole and weld a
nut to the outside was my idea. using a standard oilpan drain plug bolt.
maybe a magnetic one. i swap diffs enough that i should have done this
years ago but each time i swap, i say to myself, "self, i won't need it,
this is the last time i swap diffs."

sleddog

- ----------
From: sdelanty sonic.net[SMTP:sdelanty sonic.net]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 1997 12:11 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Draining Yer 9"...


Has anyone out there ever added a drain plug to Your 9" so You can change
the juice with less hassle?

I'm thinking of drilling a hole in mine at the back of the housing near
the bottom, and welding in a 1/4" pipe fitting so I can have a drain plug.

Any thoughts, words of wisdom, or horror stories before I do such a thing?

Dreaming of clean fluid,

Steve Delanty








+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Sep 1997 13:41:50 -0400
From: Sleddog
Subject: RE: Draining Yer 9"...

i don't think it will harm the strength of the housing (which btw is not
cast, but stamped steel) but watch for the clearance to the carrier.

sleddog

- ----------
From: Gary, 78 BBB[SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 1997 3:51 AM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Re: Draining Yer 9"...

> From: sdelanty sonic.net
> Date: Sat, 20 Sep 1997 21:11:40 -0700
> Subject: Draining Yer 9"...

> I'm thinking of drilling a hole in mine at the back of the housing
> near the bottom, and welding in a 1/4" pipe fitting so I can have a
....


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