Return-Path:
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 1997 23:19:34 -0700
From: Doug Neely
Reply-To: Doug_Neely bc.sympatico.ca
To: kpayne mindspring.com
Subject: [Fwd: fordtrucks-digest V1 #218]

Ken,
just checked my mail (been busy) here's #218 if you haven't got
it already
Cheers,
Doug
Return-Path: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Received: from listservice.net (listservice.net [192.41.45.94]) by zorro.bctel.ca (8.8.6/8.7.1) with ESMTP id DAA17176 for ; Tue, 16 Sep 1997 03:07:00 -0700 (PDT)
Received: from localhost (listserv localhost) by listservice.net (8.8.5) id EAA12116; Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:00:48 -0600 (MDT)
Received: by listservice.net (bulk_mailer v1.5); Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:00:48 -0600
Received: (listserv localhost) by listservice.net (8.8.5) id EAA12110; Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:00:48 -0600 (MDT)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 1997 04:00:48 -0600 (MDT)
Message-Id:
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #218
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, September 16 1997 Volume 01 : Number 218



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
To unsubscribe, send email to:
fordtrucks-digest-request listservice.net
with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send
email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the
message.
=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Need help finding dual master cylinder [Dan Wentz
RE: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? [DC Beatty
My new baby [reedg ns2.cetlink.net]
Re: Riddle me this!!!! ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage? [reedg ns2.cetlink.]
460 intake suggestions ["Mike & Evan" ]
Bedliners ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Don on the Road ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS) ["Dale and Donna Carmine"
Re: 460 intake suggestions [SARHOG aol.com]
RE: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
Re: Seat Cover Sources. [David Neumayer ]
Re: 460 intake suggestions [Brian & Jacque Milbrandt ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 17:20:18 -0700
From: Dan Wentz
Subject: Re: Need help finding dual master cylinder

>I have a '53 F100 with basically stock mechanicals. I want to swap out
>the single master cylinder for a dual master cylinder for safety
>reasons. I would like to make as few changes as possible - is there a
>replacement that would just bolt right in and all's I would need to do is
>hook it up and bleed the brakes?

Sacramento Vintage offers an adaptor that lets you use a 67-72 Mustang
master cylinder. It costs $80 though. Also, the 67-72 were all disk/drum
setups, but I think you could use an older master cylinder if you have
drum/drum--should have the same bolt pattern...someone correct me if I'm
wrong.

~Dan

1992 Ford Mustang LX
1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V
Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 19:04:19 -0400
From: DC Beatty
Subject: RE: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

If the linkage is adjusted correctly (i.e. 1 is one, 2 is two, R is
reverse, etc.) then you may want to check vacuum to the modulator. If it
has good vacuum than the modulator can be adjusted. =


If you pull the vacuum line off of the back of the modulator there is a
little hollow shaft that sticks out of the hole the vac line came out of.=

Inside the shaft is a screw adjustment. A real small thin standard
screwdriver fits it. Back it out (counter-clockwise) one turn and check t=
o
see if third comes back. If not, try another turn, etc. =


Usually after 2 or 3 turns, *something* in the shifting pattern changes,
which means the shifting will either get less or more stupid. Hopefully i=
t
will change in your favor. =


My FMX was doing the opposite when I got it on the road. It was skipping
over 2nd--shifting too early. I fix it by messing with this adjustment. =


Does anybody know if 3rd is operated by a band??? =


Good luck. Let us know. =


DC Beatty
1967 F100 352
1974 Maverick 302



Group:

Doing a little road testing on my van over the weekend and after getting
the
right axles, gears and tires all installed, I believe it never makes it t=
o
third gear. Here is what I know: 77 C6 with transfer case in 2WD high, 3=
0"
tires, 3.54 ratio, 460 engine. With the pedal depressed as if my
grandmother was in the passenger seat (taking it really easy on the
acceleration), I noticed the first to second gear shift occurring about
15mph (sorry, no tach yet), assume I should make it into third about
30-35mph??? but it never happens. Made it to about 45-50mph which major
engine whine and no shift into third. Placed the transmission shift leve=
r
from drive into 2 and noticed the same lack-o-shift into third. Tried
moving between D and 2 at various speeds and noticed no change in shift o=
f
any kind. After driving a few miles and with the engine at good normal
operating temperature, smelled the trans. fluid on the dip stick and it
looked reddish (not black or brown) and smelled the fluid (no burned smel=
l
noticed). Fluid level appeared to be in the normal fill range with the
engine running, trans in park and pretty much level ground.

This is my first serious experience with diagnosing auto trans problems,
always been a manual guy.

I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to the
trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5" above the
before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever arm with a small=

circular knob at the end of the C that seems to move freely between two
positions, always returning to the forward position if left untouched.
There seems to be nothing connected to this C shaped lever. Has some
spring
or linkage fallen off this lever that just might be part of my lack-o-thi=
rd
gear problem? Is it something between the column linkage and this C shap=
ed
lever or is it between the gas pedal and the C lever (as my dad described=

used to be a way to kick an old auto into the next gear based on gas peda=
l
depression)?

If this C shaped level is just for looks, then is there something else I
should be checking? I am scrounging around for books/repair manuals that=

can help, but so far no luck.

Any help would be greatly appreciated,
John
bauerjf ix.netcom.com

96 F150, 302, daily driver
77 E250 4WD, 460, C6, custom van!






+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
| Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
+-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:13:35 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
Subject: My new baby

No, it's not a truck. I just wanted you guys to know just in case I
can't get back to the list for awhile that my baby boy will be born
friday morning(isn't it nice to know in advance). I have to go get him
a toy ford truck before then. It also means that I have ONLY 16 more
years to get that ##$ truck ready for his 16th birthday.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:34:54 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Riddle me this!!!!

Trucks work harder, one more quart of cooling oil. All heat is transferred
from cam and crank to oil. Water cools head and block, oil cools internal
parts. More oil, more cooling.

- ----------
> From: George Schott
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Riddle me this!!!!
> Date: Monday, September 15, 1997 6:33 PM
>
> O.K. Ford truck Guru's here's something I don't understand. I got a 302
> from a car to put into a truck everyone here said I needed to change the
> oil pan so I ordered a pan for a 71 motor in a 69 f-100 2 wd. I got the
> pan and it looks exactly the same as the one that is on the motor I
> called the parts guy and said you screwed up my order he said no the car
> holds 5 qts. the truck holds 6 qts. WHY? WHY does the truck hold 1 more
> qt. of oil in the same motor?
>
> Duke's
> Fine 69
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:18:07 +0000
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net
Subject: Re: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

> From: "John F. Bauer III"
> Subject: C6 never making it to 3rd, missing shift linkage?

That C shaped lever is the kickdown. Which shouldn't cause it not to
shift into third. Best thing to do is change the trans filter. While
you have the pan off take the valve body out and clean the heck out
of it. Make sure the linkage adjustments are correct.

> Group:
>
> Doing a little road testing on my van over the weekend and after getting the
> right axles, gears and tires all installed, I believe it never makes it to
> third gear. Here is what I know: 77 C6 with transfer case in 2WD high, 30"
> tires, 3.54 ratio, 460 engine. With the pedal depressed as if my
> grandmother was in the passenger seat (taking it really easy on the
> acceleration), I noticed the first to second gear shift occurring about
> 15mph (sorry, no tach yet), assume I should make it into third about
> 30-35mph??? but it never happens. Made it to about 45-50mph which major
> engine whine and no shift into third. Placed the transmission shift lever
> from drive into 2 and noticed the same lack-o-shift into third. Tried
> moving between D and 2 at various speeds and noticed no change in shift of
> any kind. After driving a few miles and with the engine at good normal
> operating temperature, smelled the trans. fluid on the dip stick and it
> looked reddish (not black or brown) and smelled the fluid (no burned smell
> noticed). Fluid level appeared to be in the normal fill range with the
> engine running, trans in park and pretty much level ground.
>
> This is my first serious experience with diagnosing auto trans problems,
> always been a manual guy.
>
> I have noticed that where the shift linkage comes from the column to the
> trans, there appears to be another level on the C6 about 1.5" above the
> before mentioned shift linkage that has a C shaped lever arm with a small
> circular knob at the end of the C that seems to move freely between two
> positions, always returning to the forward position if left untouched.
> There seems to be nothing connected to this C shaped lever. Has some spring
> or linkage fallen off this lever that just might be part of my lack-o-third
> gear problem? Is it something between the column linkage and this C shaped
> lever or is it between the gas pedal and the C lever (as my dad described
> used to be a way to kick an old auto into the next gear based on gas pedal
> depression)?
>
> If this C shaped level is just for looks, then is there something else I
> should be checking? I am scrounging around for books/repair manuals that
> can help, but so far no luck.
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated,
> John
> bauerjf ix.netcom.com
>
> 96 F150, 302, daily driver
> 77 E250 4WD, 460, C6, custom van!
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 09:44:45 -0500
From: "Mike & Evan"
Subject: 460 intake suggestions

Hi everyone! I don't post much to the list, but I read it every day. Its
great, and I always learn something new.
Maybe some of you 460 guys can help me out on this one. Which intake is
best for a basically stock 460? It is going in my '75 F-250 4x4. Right
now all I have are L&L headers, and a Edelbrock 750 carb.
With stock heads and cam, should I go with a Performer, Performer RPM or a
Wieland Stealth? The 460 is out of a mid '70's Lincoln.
Or, would I be better off spending the money on something else instead?
Like redoing the heads or a bigger cam?
Any help is appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Mike Vonhof
yasky netins.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 18:21:00 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Bedliners

Anyone still interested in spray on Bedliners should check out the posts on
the 80-up list.

dale c

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:21:50 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Don on the Road

Congratulations Don! Good luck with the rest of your project.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 22:06:03 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Ported Vacuum Switch (PVS)

Don wrote;
>
> Assuming the vacuum switch is a 235 degree switch...then vacuum would
> normally flow from the carb spart port to the switch then on to the
> distributor vacuum advance. If your engine got hotter than normal (>235
> degrees) the switch would send full manifold vacuum to the distributor
> port..this would further advance your timing...increase rpms and thus
> cool your engine back down to normal levels..(At least that's the theory
> behind this setup). I'd have to go pull my Mityvac book out to see
> exactly which port is which on the switch and if EGR is hooked up
> there. Seems to me Ford used a separate vacuum switch, usually a two
> port thermal vacuum switch to control the EGR at a certain temp. The
> switches were color coded depending on what temp they kicked in. IMO,
> you could hookup the distributor vacuum advance directly to the carb
> spark port. Vacuum at the spark port should be at or near zero at
> idle...don't believe it will get quite as high as manifold vacuum even
> when it does peak with the throttle open. You normally don't want to
> run direct manifold vacuum to the distributor advance. Depending on
> your carb...if you have two ports the other port should be for the EGR
> hookup. You normally will see vacuum at idle on this port. At wide
> open throttle it should be near zero vacuum on the EGR port. EGR valve
> therefore would close whe you hit wide open throttle.
>
> If you clean off the grease and dirt the vacuum switch on the thermostat
> housing should be labeled. Something like 1,2,D,M
> D=Distributor M=Manifold
>
> Do you have a vacuum gauge to check the ports and see how much vacuum is
> be directed to the vacuum advance?
>
> Hope this helps..will post the Mityvac 4 port description if I can find
> it in my workshop tomorrow.
>
> I would think the replacement vacuum switch wouldn't be terribly
> expensive (I would guess around $15).
>
> Don
> Allen, Texas
>
Don,

I'll never doubt you again!
I had never heard of using the vacuum advance with full manifold vacuum to
increase engine idle speed for additional cooling. When I first read your
post I thought you were full of sh**. But after a trip to the library to
check it out, the description was exactly as you wrote. I learned
something.

Chiltons did have a good description of the 3 port PVS but nothing on the 4
port other than mentioning that it does exist. There is also a 2 port on
this engine and it is between the carb EGR vacuum port(?) and the charcoal
canister.
The markings on the 4 port PVS are S, E, M, D.

Is the spark port the one on the front of the carb? (Motorcraft 2150)
EGR vacuum port on the pasenger side of the carb?
The port description you mentioned would be very helpful. I hope you can
find it.

I do have a vacuum gauge, I got into this mess looking for a vacuum leak.
The engine has been telling me it's lean for while, I finally got tired of
it running bad and started checking into it. Like most things on this
truck, what starts out as a simple problem turns into a can of worms.
Never buy a truck from your brother-in-law!

thanks for your help Don.

later
dale c

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 23:08:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: SARHOG aol.com
Subject: Re: 460 intake suggestions

Subj: 460 intake suggestions
Date: 97-09-15 22:45:49 EDT
From: yasky netins.net (Mike & Evan)
Sender: owner-fordtrucks ListService.net
Reply-to: fordtrucks ListService.net
To: fordtrucks ListService.net

Hi everyone! I don't post much to the list, but I read it every day. Its
great, and I always learn something new.
Maybe some of you 460 guys can help me out on this one. Which intake is
best for a basically stock 460? It is going in my '75 F-250 4x4. Right
now all I have are L&L headers, and a Edelbrock 750 carb.
With stock heads and cam, should I go with a Performer, Performer RPM or a
Wieland Stealth? The 460 is out of a mid '70's Lincoln.
Or, would I be better off spending the money on something else instead?
Like redoing the heads or a bigger cam?


I have a 460, and am in need of a new intake too, so I feel your pain. For
your application in a 4x4, you should go with the Performer. The Performer
RPM doesn't make as much low-end torque, and I think the Stealth is a single
plane, which is definitely the wrong way to go, unless you plan on doing mud
racing or something.

John Z.
67 F-100 460/C-6

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 20:18:16 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: Harmonic Balancer, Pulleyss

>1. What is the best method to use to remove the bolts holding the Pulleys
>and
>Harmonic Balancer onto the Crankshaft.
>

I used a long Johnson bar and pipe over the end of that. I had the truck in
gear with the emergency brake on (shudn't be a problem with an automatic
trans in park). Use a 6 point socket of course and watch those knuckes.
It's probably okay, but I don't know for sure that using an impact wrench on
the crank is such a good idea.....


marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Sep 1997 21:35:39 -0800
From: David Neumayer
Subject: Re: Seat Cover Sources.

> From: jack fleming
> Subject: Seat Cover sources
> Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 20:11:43 -0400

> sitting on 2x4s atop a welded base) and have purchased an original
> bench seat - however it is in desperate need of new covering, spring
> reconditioning, etc. I've only found one source so far; CI in
> Mass.....I called them 3 weeks ago, they promised a catalogue, but
> no word yet......

I purchased a seat cover for my 56 F100 bench seat from Johns F Fun
Hundreds 1575 W. Broadway Anaheim, Ca 92802. I can't find a Phone #
for them. I believe I paid $200 for both pieces in 1996. I have not
installed them cause my truck is now in the last coat of primer. I
think they look pretty good. Mine are red. I purchased over $2000.00
of parts from John's. They gave me good prices and paid all of the....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.