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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 04:00:54 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #210
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Thursday, September 11 1997 Volume 01 : Number 210



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: 73 f-100 w/460 frame mounts [FORDTRKNUT aol.com]
12 volt [rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)]
Re: Removing paint from rubber parts? ["Brett McCoy"
decode? [KEVIN ]
Re: decode? ["Donald R. Screen" ]
Re: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights [Mark Tanner
electronic ignition ["RICH ANZALONE" ]

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 21:22:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: FORDTRKNUT aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 f-100 w/460 frame mounts

I checked on that 1979 F-150 two wheel drive "PACE TRUCK" with the 460
today. It was gone...somebody bought the entire truck to restore. I
remember that the only thing that was missing was a headlight....it too bad
that it's gone. But......at least someone is restoring it back to stock.
They look neat too!!!! It was black, silver, & red with "OFFICAL PACE
TRUCK" stickers on the door. It was badley rusted in the bed but otherwise
the cab was in good shape. Well enough of my B.S. ing!!!!! Wayne Grabley

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 21:22:45 -0800
From: rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)
Subject: 12 volt

Don & Teresa Neighbors write:
" I'm in the process of putting a '54 F-250 back on the road, and while I
won't be converting to 12 volts immediately, I will be looking into it by
spring or thereabouts. Hence, I am on a fact-finding mission.
I'm considering two alternatives: convert to the '56 and later 12 volt
generator and stay with the original look of the engine compartment, or
converting to a Ford alternator like the spare I have for my '65 Comet. I
already know I'll have to make other changes to account for the reversal in
polarity, i.e. a new starter and heater motor, etc, but I'm a lttle fuzzy
about wiring up the new generator or alternator."

Your desire for reliability is understandable but it turns out you cannot=
readily compare the gen and alternator for this characteristic. Let me=
explain, the alternator contains no commutator. The commutator and brushes=
are the primary cause for generators failing (I know, they have bearings=
but so do alternators so that is a wash and the bearings usually last 5 or=
10 years). Alternators have silicon rectifiers which can last much longer=
than commutators under normal conditions. Also the brushes in alternators=
run on slip rings not commutator segments so they last much longer. So an=
alternator will generally outlast several generators, BUT the silicon=
diodes in alternators are not very robust, and just a fraction of a second=
of a jumpstart cable connected incorrectly can destroy your diodes but=
would not bother a generator at all.

So take your pick, on my vehicles I stay with the original, however I have a=
47 pickup that I am going to start restoration of soon and it probably will=
be converted to 12 volts generator powered (neg gnd of course). As far as=
the polarity reversal using a negative ground vs the positive ground of the=
54, that is no problem. The only thing you will need to change is the=
wiring to the ammeter will need to be reversed. The heater, wiper (I=
believe yours is electric), and starter motors do not care. They are not=
PM type motors so they will run the same direction no matter which way you=
connect the power. The guages (except the ammeter) are a thermal type=
guages and they operate the same with either polarity. Even the radio (if=
you have the old tube type radio) will operate the same with either=
polarity in most cases. There are a few rare exceptions, that I do not=
want to try to explain at this time. Even the voltage regulator works=
fine, but you must polarize the generator for the system you are using.

The voltage change is another problem You will either need to find 12 volt=
motors to use for the heater and the wiper, or use a dropping resistor with=
them (not a very good solution). Finding these should not be a major=
problem since the 56 cab was quite similiar to the 54. The starter and=
solenoid will do just find on 12 volts if you don't crank on them for long=
periods (I have used this on my tractor for over 10 years and have never=
had any problems, however you may wish to get a 12 volt field in the=
starter motor). The instruments will either need a dropping resistor or=
you can use the "in dash regulator" that 70's and 80's vehicles use and=
that will be close enough=20to 6 volts for your guages. A dropping=
resistor works fine on the ignition circuit. Of course you will need to=
change out all the light bulbs, don't forget the interior light if you have=
the custom cab.

Would suggest you do not use the two 6 volt batteries in series for the 12=
volt. This does not work well because the charging current through both=
batteries will be the same, but the drain (load) on the two will be=
different so a differential charge will build up that could damage the=
unloaded battery, and the other battery will never be fully charged.

There, now you have something to think about, no concrete answers, just food=
for thought.

Regards,
Roger Meier

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 21:47:19 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Re: Removing paint from rubber parts?

The best product that I have found for removing stuff from rubber is a
product called "Fedron". It is a rubber reconditioned and cleaner used by
many different folk. It is very similar to "Press Wash" used by offset
press operators. It keeps the rubber clean and soft. Bit it also will cut
through just about anything. And I do me anything. Don't even think of
using this stuff on plastic. It will eat the top layers right off if you
scrub a little. Use the phone book and look for chemical suppliers. Any
one of them should be able to get a line on some Fedron for you. Be
careful it hurts like the #$ $% if you get it in an open cut.

- -Brett

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 22:26:41 -0500
From: KEVIN
Subject: decode?

Hello to all of you Ford guys(and gals) I 've got a good question for
you.1st,I oun a 75 F-100,390,auto and had the trans rebuilt.Iput a new
stator assembly,front pump,and 5 clutch and steel drum and any way me
question is can anyone out there decode my trany?(PGB CJ1 A30,D5TP
BAAO15369).Also Iput a 282-292 advertised duration cam in my 390.Has
anyone used this size cam?If so all info would be apreciated.Thanks
Mongo.

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 00:24:39 -0500
From: "Donald R. Screen"
Subject: Re: decode?

KEVIN wrote:
>
> Hello to all of you Ford guys(and gals) I 've got a good question for
> you.1st,I oun a 75 F-100,390,auto and had the trans rebuilt.Iput a new
> stator assembly,front pump,and 5 clutch and steel drum and any way me
> question is can anyone out there decode my trany?(PGB CJ1 A30,D5TP
> BAAO15369).Also Iput a 282-292 advertised duration cam in my 390.Has
> anyone used this size cam?If so all info would be apreciated.Thanks
> Mongo.


Kevin..errr..Mongo....

I also have a somewhat 75 vintage F100. My 1974 F100 XLT Ranger has a
1975
390 intake manifold now topped with a 1406 Model Edelbrock 4v carb. My
truck has a
C6 transmission. It took me awhile but Ford part numbers are coded by
the year
the were first produced for that particular part.
C = 1960's
D= 1970's
E = 1980's
The part may show a date code such as C8TE (1968)..etc but be installed
say on a 1974 vehicle.
A particular casting or part date can span several years. My 1975
radiator has a 75 enclosed
in a circle. My original carb had a D0 code (1970) but the carb was
installed on
my 1974 truck.
Your transmission has a D5TP code in it...D5 means 1975 and the T stands
for Truck
The P code might stand for transmission (not sure on this one). Someone
else will
have to jump in on the rest of the decoding. (The last series of
numbers 15369 may
be the production serial number)
I have whatever cam the truck came with unless one of the prior owners
changed it out.
Sounds like a big cam for that motor...how well does it idle and run on
the street
with that cam in there? Is your truck your daily driver or for
something else?
Got my flame suit on if any of the above is incorrect...

Don
Allen, Texas

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 22:46:05 +0000
From: Mark Tanner
Subject: Re: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights

marko maryniak wrote:

> 1., you may wish to buy an electronic regulator for your truck rather than
> the old point-type electromechanical one. They work better and don't blink.

I was wondering if you could help me out with this? When you say they
don't blink does that mean the regulator might be what is causing my
lights to pulsate noticeably and using an electronic one could solve it?

> They have the same plug and the same size housing, just are not as tall (no
> coil to accommodate). And they're cheap, available even at Wal-Mart.

So when I go to Wal-Mart or wherever and the guy at the parts counter
needs the year and model of the vehicle what should I tell him. Is
there a certain year that Ford started using electronic?

I really would appreciate some info because I want to fix the pulsating
lights. I have had people pull up next to me on the road and inform me
of my "problem". I had assumed it must be something I had to hunt down
in the wiring.

Mark
'74 F-250 Supercab
- --
Mark Tanner mtanner pacifier.com Washougal, WA

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Date: Thu, 11 Sep 1997 00:48:32 PDT
From: "RICH ANZALONE"
Subject: electronic ignition

I had electronic ignition installed in my truck about a week ago and I
drove it to work for the first time yesterday. My problem is the motor
started pinging really bad on the way home. I live at about 3500 feet
of elevation and my work is at about 500 foot. It quit pinging by the
time I got home so I ruled out bad gas. I didn't have this problem
before I swapped to the electronic ignition. Any Ideas on what the
problem might be? Thanks for any and all ideas.....


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