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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 19:17:41 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #209
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fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, September 10 1997 Volume 01 : Number 209



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

6V to 12V or not [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)]
RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion [marko helix.net (marko maryniak)]
2WD to 4WD Conversion ["Dave Resch"]
RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Converting to Halogen Headlights ["Dave Resch"]
RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion [Keith Srb ]
Window Stickers ["deconblu" ]
460 Crank Failure ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion [Don Grossman ]
2WD TO 4WD CONVERSION [Sleddog ]
RE: 460 Crank Failure [Sleddog ]
window stickers ["Payne, Kenneth" ]
RE: Converting my 66 and my 74 to Halogen Headlights [Tim Baker
Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion ["deconblu" ]
Re: window stickers ["deconblu" ]

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 14:15:52 -0700
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: 6V to 12V or not

Concerning the conversion from 6 volt
to 12 volt. Why do it at all? With an additional
6V battery in the circuit in series everything
runs 6V, except the few items (radio, CB, etc.)
that need 12V. Run them from a separate parallel circuit.

Or if installing a 12V charging system engine, run the
rest of the truck from one of the 6V batteries (golf carts
use 6V batteries, so plenty of them around).

Haven't done this, but would if the right vehicle
came around.

Best of both worlds!

- - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

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Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 14:15:23 -0700
From: marko helix.net (marko maryniak)
Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

I am doing the same thing, only in reverse, putting a clean 71 body from a
2wd onto my 71 f250 4wd once blue, now blue, red, and see-through. And no,
you can't have my running gear!

IF: the frame you buy is straight and the truck is just a rust bucket or
something but otherwise ok, then the way to go, i think, is this:

Drive your 2x while doing a resto on the purchased 4x frame. First, take
your good bed off your 2x and put it aside. Put the bad bed from the 4x
onto the now naked back of the 2x, so you can haul stuff around in it
without damaging the good bed. Then, do your "frame-off" on the 4x.

Reason being, you'll probably have/want to replace suspension bushings,
transfer case mounts, wiring, brake lines/cables, hoses, cab mounts in any
case. The sheer aggro of not finishing a job you thought you'd get a job
done one day (like swapping axles or something) is enough to make you not
want to do this. Besides, it's easier removing and replacing, in the case
of spring bushings, one bolt at a time, rather than having the whole thing
on your shop floor in pieces. Oh yeah, no bonking of the head! Since the
body will be off the 4x frame, you can literally walk around in the running
gear and get easy access to everything.
No insult to your 2 wheeler intended; if both frames are in the same
condition, that's the only thing you'd not be using of the 2x that you could
be. Everything from the frame up can be switched over, and it's WAY easier
to do in that order (stack things on top of a bare chassis) than the other
way around (crawl around under a still lower-slung, unrestored (I'm
assuming) 2wd chassis with a body on it.

just my coupla cents worth, actually 1.6 cents US, 2 Canadian

marko in vancouver
marko helix.net
71 f250 4x4


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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 15:28:16 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

Keith:

The main issue is the frame itself. On some years of Ford trucks (not sure
about '74 specifically), the frame itself is different for the 4x4.
Sometimes, it's just the crossmembers (usually different around the
transmission and transfer case, and maybe different around the front end,
what w/ coil spring twin I-beam on 4x2 and leaf spring live axle on 4x4 -
completely different front suspension systems), and if the frame rails are
identical, w/ different crossmembers just bolted to different holes, you're
ok to switch things over. Otherwise, you might need to completely change
frames (or bodies, depending on your perspective) or go in for a lot of
custom fabrication to work it out.

just my 0.02

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 17:33:58 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion
> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:49:18 -0700

> 4WD Frame. I want to convert my 74 2WD F250 into a 74 4WD F250 by
> using as much of the74 2WD Truck as I can.

Now we're back where we started :-) If you have a rolled frame then
it's no good to use but if you find a frame in good condition it's
MUCH easier to bolt the body back on to a 4wd frame than to modify a
2wd frame to accept the 4wd parts and get all the geometry right. I
did it on a 75 van but if you want to do the work you will find the
front end a real challenge to line up correctly and new mounting
brackets etc. for trasnfer case is a pain and the frame won't be
shaped right for the axle up front, steering box won't work either
etc..

That's all I was trying to say. It's doable, just easier the other
way, much easier IMHO :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 15:48:50 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Converting to Halogen Headlights

Keith:

The sealed beam halogen headlights use exactly the same packaging (lamp
size, plug configuration, etc.) as the old style sealed beam headlights, so
they're a direct plug-in replacement.

Sealed beam halogen headlights have the halogen bulb sealed inside a
conventional glass unit. If you use these type headlights, you don't have
to worry about precautions about touching the halogen bulb, since it isn't
accessible; they handle just like the old filament type lights. The sealed
beam halogens are not too expensive compared to the European type lights
(Hella, et al) with their replaceable bulb elements and expensive lenses
($6-$8 vs $50 or more per headlight).

One thing you can get now in sealed beam halogens is so-called Long Life or
Hi Output bulbs that use a 55 watt low beam element (max legal for street
use per USDOT). Conventional halogen sealed beams use a 35 watt low beam
element. All street legal halogens use a 65 watt high beam element.

One thing you might want to do to improve your lighting system, aside from
the switch to halogens, is to set up a remote relay to supply power to the
headlights directly from the battery, rather than through the headlight
switch in the cab. I made this change on my truck and the voltage measured
at the headlight (with engine running) went from 10.45 going through the
stock setup to 13.2 volts going through the relay. The light output is
substantially better.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 15:41:08 -0700
From: Keith Srb
Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

I am sure it would be easier to change bodies, but this is going to be a
project truck. I took a lot of time finding a solid truck to start with. I
live in Arizona, should I not have to worry too much about rust. I do not care
how long, or how much money it will take to do the restoration and upgrades.
Other than the fact that it is 2WD, I love this truck and have no plans of ever
selling it.

Seven years ago, I took my Harley, which was in running condition and in good
shape, and tore it down to the frame. It took me Six Years and $3000.00, I
originally paid $3300.00 for the Bike in 1982, to get everything the way I
wanted it. Yes I missed driving it for those Six Years, but after riding it for
a year, and getting a lot of comments, it was well worth the wait. That is
generally how I do things! Take it slow, do it my way while I still make sure
it is done right.


Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
Mesa, AZ
1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two Wheels!"


- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary, 78 BBB [SMTP:gpeters3 ford.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 1997 10:34 AM
To: fordtrucks listservice.net
Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: RE: 2WD to 4WD Conversion
> Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 13:49:18 -0700

> 4WD Frame. I want to convert my 74 2WD F250 into a 74 4WD F250 by
> using as much of the74 2WD Truck as I can.

Now we're back where we started :-) If you have a rolled frame then
it's no good to use but if you find a frame in good condition it's
MUCH easier to bolt the body back on to a 4wd frame than to modify a
2wd frame to accept the 4wd parts and get all the geometry right. I
did it on a 75 van but if you want to do the work you will find the
front end a real challenge to line up correctly and new mounting
brackets etc. for transfer case is a pain and the frame won't be
shaped right for the axle up front, steering box won't work either
etc..

That's all I was trying to say. It's doable, just easier the other
way, much easier IMHO :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --



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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 15:55:17 -0700
From: "deconblu"
Subject: Window Stickers

I was just wondering what happened to us getting window stickers. Did they
fly out the window? I've been thinking of making something up for my truck.
Every time I see a Ford truck on the road I feel like yelling out "Hey, do
you know about the Ford Truck List" but with everyone afraid of drive-by
shootings and car jacking it's not wise yelling at motorist in the Southland
(So.Ca.). So, what up Homey!



Deacon Blues
deconblu gte.net
'73 F100 302

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Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 18:00:50 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: 460 Crank Failure

Last summer I was driving a company truck, '78 F-250 460 C-6, down the
highway at 55 mph and the crank sheared cleanly right behind the number one
main. I could crank the engine and the front pulley wouldn't turn at all.
The mechanic who rebuilt the 460 said he has seen this before. He said it
is caused by regrinders who don't put enough radius at the edge of the main
journals causing a stress point.
Has anyone else seen this type of failure? How common is it?
Why does it break at the front main? This would seem to be the lowest
stress point on the crank.
Maybe just a casting flaw?

Worst part is I had to drive a chevy 305 for a month while the 460 was
being rebuilt! :-(

dale c

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 16:04:02 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion....

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