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Return-Path: Date: Wed, 10 Sep 1997 04:00:39 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #207 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, September 10 1997 Volume 01 : Number 207 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: RE: parts chimps ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] RE: Plugs, again? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Parts guys [mark heims ] RE: Dash Lightbulbs [DC Beatty ] Parts chimps, etc. ["Paul G." ] tranny..... [SLaG ] RE: Dash Lightbulbs [pharrell California Smog Check Program. [danadeb Cleaning fluid soaked brake shoes? [JRFiero Removing paint from rubber parts? [JRFiero Re: Screwed My axle HELP!! More info ["Brett McCoy" Re: Dash Lightbulbs ["Donald R. Screen" ] Re: tranny..... ["George Shepherd" ] Attachment test [Randy Collins ] Re: Removing paint from rubber parts? ["Kevin" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 14:02:44 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: RE: parts chimps > From: Kevin Kemmerer > Subject: RE: parts chimps > Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 12:50:00 -0400 > the gratefull dead to yanni to bach. there has to be people out > there that WANT to work as a parts guy, not for the money. but for > the job. a little understanding of how a car works, would help alot My mom worked as a registered nurse all her life and at one point, after many years of service the hospital administration asked them to work for less pay for the "Nitengale tradition" and because hospital cost were just too high and she asked him how much he was going to cut his salary since "We are all in this humanitarian occupation together aren't we?" and the discussion ended for some unknown reason :-) (They didn't cut their pay either) Maybe he expected them to sacrifice something he wasn't willing to sacrifice himself :-) I agree that you should do your best at any job you work at but there has to be some incentive to improve or most people will become complacent, even quality people. I've even recognized this in myself under some working conditions and had to fight the tendency. I protect myself by going to places where I get the service I want or being prepared with part numbers or vehicles they came from. It makes life so much easier :-) The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 14:06:48 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: RE: Plugs, again? > From: Kevin Kemmerer > Subject: RE: Plugs, again? > Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 13:01:51 -0400 > plug. as for the side electrode. theoretically it seems better, > but if they were that good, wouldn't ford or gm or dodge or even > mercedes use 'em as oem? Only if it can be done cheaply. If the present plugs work with current ignition needs they won't go to more expensive ones, trust me :-) They only need to stay ahead of warantee periods to reduce costs so it doesn't need to last any longer than that :-( But you do have to wonder why they aren't offered as an option on some models, or are they? The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 13:10:20 -0600 From: mark heims Subject: Parts guys All this talk about parts guys makes me really miss Missouri, I had a friend that worked at a parts store there. He drove Ford trucks and I would walk in and tell him what I needed and he'd pull it off the shelf (most of the time without having to look at the books). Not to mention the nice discount thing! I now live in Great Falls, Montana and have not found anywhere near the service I took for granted there. I moved two years ago and was back visiting last summer, it was nice to walk in there and have half the counter people call me by name and ask if I still had "The Great Pumpkin" (it's orange and black, the name fits). I'm looking for a good source of info on rebuilding a NP435 trans, I'm tired of it popping out of third gear. Any info would be helpful. Mark 78 F150 4X4, 400, 35" BFG's, what gas mileage? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 16:59:30 -0400 From: DC Beatty Subject: RE: Dash Lightbulbs Not to be a smartass, but is the dimmer turned all the way on (counter-clockwise). This could be your easy to fix problem. DC Beatty 1967 F100 352 1974 Maverick 302 I recently replaced all of the dash's light bulbs with standard bulbs (something like 194's if I remember correctly). The dash is still way to dim. Are there specialty bulbs that will brighten up the dash and still fit in the original standard sockets? This question is for my 1974 Ford F100 XLT Ranger. Thanks! Don Allen, Texas ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:13:23 -0700 From: "Paul G." Subject: Parts chimps, etc. What really bugs me is the parts stores have moved everything good behind the counter, so you have to wait in line to get a simple part, from shocks to voltage regulator, etc. It's no fun to shop for parts anymore. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 19:15:18 -0500 From: SLaG Subject: tranny..... Hey... It's about time for a new tranny ...and i have a few questions such as.... What kind? Do you have to take the engine out ....or can you get the tranny out from the bottom? It's a 73 bronco...V8 (302 i guess but i'm not real sure about anything on this truck!!!) what's the advantage/disadvantage to rebuilding the tranny as opposed to just getting a whole new one?? thanks for any info ....and please respond by e mail ...as i am very behind on my list reading.......thanks again.... rasberry - -- ÐÏࡱá ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 97 20:40:36 EDT From: pharrell Subject: RE: Dash Lightbulbs I went through the same problem on my 1980 Bronco. The dash lights were never bright enough. I tried the original 194's, different colored bulbs, I even replaced the rheostat (headlight and dimmer switch). I took the dash apart so many times I could do it blindfolded. You'll have to pull the speedo cluster to solve the problem but it's no biggie. If it's an automatic, just be careful with the cable that controls the park/drive indicator though. You'll see it when you pull the steering column shroud. The problem is that Ford put these little colored plastic covers over the bulbs and they are just too dark to let enough light through. they're on the inside of the cluster so you'll have to take the clear front off. I tried drilling small holes in the covers but that won't let enough light through either. Just pull them off and put new bulbs in when you put it back together. Don't worry about it being too bright. Hope I helped. Pat pharrell - --- Begin Included Message --- I recently replaced all of the dash's light bulbs with standard bulbs (something like 194's if I remember correctly). The dash is still way to dim. Are there specialty bulbs that will brighten up the dash and still fit in the original standard sockets? This question is for my 1974 Ford F100 XLT Ranger. Thanks! - --- End Included Message --- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 18:00:58 -0700 From: danadeb Subject: California Smog Check Program. Bellow is the text of an E- Mail I received regarding A California State Senate Bill, SB_42, that would ease the though and arbitrary Smog Control standards, we have been living with here in California, for older vehicles. If you live in California please write / E-Mail your State Senator, Assemblymember and The Governor and urge them to vote in favor of this bill. As owners of older vehicles I am sure that you can all appreciate the meaning and magnitude of this bill. Also anyone who lives in a Smog Control State or area might want to have their representatives review this California Bill and adopt it there too. If you don't know how to reach your California Representatives, E-Mail me directly and I will send you the WWW sites where you can look them up. I am in no way endorsing any political person, just the bill. I hope I have not offended anyone by submitting this. MEMORANDUM From: Senator Quentin L. Kopp To: Supporters of SB 42 Subject: Status of SB 42 I am pleased to report to the many supporters of SB 42 that the bill was approved by the Assembly Appropriations Committee on September 4, 1997 on a 20-1 vote. The bill now proceeds to the Assembly Floor for a vote by the full Assembly; this will occur as early as Tuesday, September 9, 1997. The Assembly Appropriations Committee adopted amendments to SB 42 which would freeze the 25 model year and older smog check exemption for five years, at which time the exemption would become a "rolling" 30-year exemption. In other words, the bill's provisions would move the current 1965 exemption year cutoff forward to 1973 and maintain that exemption year until 2003. The amendments were promulgated by the committee as changes necessary to move the bill to the Assembly Floor. Obviously, I prefer the previous version of the bill. Notwithstanding the amendments, passage of the bill represents a substantial victory for those backing the bill. I urge you to continue to convey your support to your respective representatives in the Assembly and inform Governor Wilson of your views. We are one step closer, and a large one at that, to securing the relief embodied in SB 42. Thank you again for all you have done and are doing. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 21:53:11 -0400 (EDT) From: JRFiero Subject: Cleaning fluid soaked brake shoes? I replaced the front brake cylinders on my '51 recently, and one side was soaking with brake fluid mixed with a little bearing grease. I sat the shoes (nearly new it appears, just arced nicely to the drums) under the parts cleaner stream while I cleaned everything up, then sprayed them liberally with BrakeClean (sp?). I still get a little grabbing on that side first thing in the morning, and expect I didn't get them clean enough. Besides loosening the death grip on my wallet and springing for some new shoes, any ideas on completing my mission? ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 21:53:19 -0400 (EDT) From: JRFiero Subject: Removing paint from rubber parts? Anybody got a surefire method of removing paint from rubber parts? The gas tank filler tube gasket on my '51, as well as several other rubber parts, was painted several years ago along with the body. I've tried two new gaskets, one from Early Ford (didn't even come close to fitting) and one from S&S (close, using it now), but they don't fit snugly to the body like the one I removed, which may be original. They orig doesn't look cracked or anything, just covered with bright red paint. I intend to try progressively harsher chemicals to soften what I assume is enamel, but I hope somebody's figured it out for me! ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:59:19 -0500 From: "Brett McCoy" Subject: Re: Screwed My axle HELP!! More info A little more information on my axle problem. This is a full floater axle so the spindle, or what ever you call it on the full floater, is not removable. This is part of the axle housing. The inner wheel bearing race is still stuck, (read semi-welded) to the spindle from the bearing blowing out. The threads are on the end of the axle housing, spindle area. Normally you would install the drum then the outer bearing and first nut. Then install the lock washer and outer nut. The problem, when the inner bearing died it somehow allowed enough movement of the axle shaft to rub on the housing. The heat from that, I suspect caused the end of the spindle where the threads and the keyway are to expand slightly near the end. The old nuts bearly, and I do mean bearly came off in one piece. After running a threader tool, not a true die, over the threads I can get the nuts to start fine. Then there is a spot that it is really, really hard to get them past after this the nut will spin on the rest of the way by hand. Seems that there is still just a little bit of a high spot for a couple of threads. While you can muscle the nuts past that point I sure don't want to do that with the new bearings. I think that if I had a die big enough I could run this over the threads and that would take care of it but I don't have one available. I think the "high" spots can't be much more than about a thousandth of an inch so I think I will try some light sanding to get the bearing on. If that doesn't work I guess it will just have to come out and a new housing goes in. Just hope it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg. Any other ideas would be great. By the way do any of you know how much loading actually occurs on the spindle nuts? If this isn't just perfect am I going to have my right rear wheel come shooting off the first hard corner I go around? That's an ugly thought. Thanks - -Brett ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 09 Sep 1997 22:43:22 -0500 From: "Donald R. Screen" Subject: Re: Dash Lightbulbs DC Beatty wrote: > > Not to be a smartass, but is the dimmer turned all the way on > (counter-clockwise). This could be your easy to fix problem. > > DC Beatty DC... Yep..I know your not being a smartass...and I know I've had bad days working on the ol truck..but it is turned up full bright..but still too dim for me. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 23:03:11 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: tranny..... Auto or manual? Most autos are better rebuilt if the rebuilder uses premium parts. Thats the rub-they don't. Try to find a shop that does drag car transmissions. - ---------- > From: SLaG > To: fordtrucks > Subject: tranny..... > Date: Tuesday, September 09, 1997 7:15 PM > > Hey... > > It's about time for a new tranny ...and i have a few questions > such as.... > What kind? > Do you have to take the engine out ....or can you get the tranny out > from the bottom? > > It's a 73 bronco...V8 (302 i guess but i'm not real sure about > anything on this truck!!!) > > what's the advantage/disadvantage to rebuilding the tranny as opposed to > just getting a whole new one?? > > thanks for any info ....and please respond by e mail ...as i am very > behind on my list reading.......thanks again.... > > rasberry > -- > ÐÏࡱá > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 22:30:32 -0600 From: Randy Collins Subject: Attachment test Ford Folks, This is another test to see if I have gotten rid of the attachments yet. If anyone can read this maybe you could post a reply to JRFiero about removing paint from the old rubber hose gasket. I think that he will find that M.E.K. (Methyl Ethyl Keytone) will work nicely for this. M.E.K. can be purchased at your local paint store. It might not be available to folks living in California. Randy Collins Boise, Idaho rcollins 1975 Ford Supercab Longbed Muscle Truck (mostly in pieces) Soon to have the following Randy installed options: F250 4WD 460 C-6 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 9 Sep 1997 23:33:02 -0000 From: "Kevin" Subject: Re: Removing paint from rubber parts? The paint should flake right off. I don't know of any paint that sticks to rubber that good. - -----Original Message----- From: JRFiero To: fordtrucks Date: Wednesday, September 10, 1997 3:41 AM Subject: Removing paint from rubber parts? >Anybody got a surefire method of removing paint from rubber parts? The gas >tank filler tube gasket on my '51, as well as several other rubber parts, was >painted several years ago along with the body. I've tried two new gaskets, >one from Early Ford (didn't even come close to fitting) and one from S&gS >(close, using it now), but they don't fit snugly to the body like the one I >removed, which may be original. They orig doesn't look cracked or anything, >just covered with bright red paint. I intend to try progressively harsher.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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