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Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 22:45:06 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #204
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Monday, September 8 1997 Volume 01 : Number 204



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion [Don Grossman ]
Re: Spark Plugs ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Timing light ["Dave Resch"]
Re: pilot bearing update [Don Grossman ]
Re: Spray on Bedliners ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Re: parts chimps ["Dale and Donna Carmine" ]
Flathead [billjhs ]
Re: Prices For New in '64-65? [bbprice ]
[none] ["Kelly C. Mathiason" ]
Screwed My axle HELP!! ["Brett McCoy" ]
Resistor Wire [rmeier connect.net (Roger Meier)]
Re: "tree forks" ranting ["Donald R. Screen" ]
RE: Resistor Wire [Tim Baker ]
RE: mime? attachments? [Randy Collins ]

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Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 15:17:37 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: 2WD to 4WD Conversion

Keith Srb wrote:
>
> If I could find a 74 4X4 Donor Truck, could I remove the Axles, Drives Shafts,
> Transfer Case, Transmission and related hardware, would I be able to bolt them
> onto my 74 2WD?
>
> TTFN
>
> Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
> Mesa, AZ

If you are going to take all the time to do this you might want to
consider finding a newer truck 78-79 and swaping the bodies. It will
take you about a 1/4 less time and extra work. Going with a newer donor
you could get a heavier front axle and disk brakes. The 3/4 2x used
coils in front and the 4x used leaf springs. You would have to remove
the front leaves and reattach to the truck. Or find a 1/2 ton coil
spring frontend and add 3/4 ton hubs to the alxe. The cab can come off
real easy. Six bolts, unplug a couple of wires, remove the master
cylinder from firewall,( don't even have to crack open the brake lines)
remove radiator, eBrake cable, and maybe the clutch linkage. Drop your
body on the new frame, which you have just cleaned and repainted, hook
everything back up and away you go.
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension
>
------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:19:05 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Spark Plugs

The spark plug indexers I have seen actually cut the threads on the plug to
change its electrode alignment in the head by about 90-135 degrees. The
idea is you line up the open space between center and side electrode to
point to the area thought to be most advantageous for firing (usually
toward the intake valve). The way they work is you mark the plug on the
insulator and screw it into the head. Look at how many degrees off it is,
then take it out, cut the threads the right amount, screw it back in and
... voila!

The cheaper way is to use indexing washers that sit between the head and
plug. Various thickness washers change the plug's orientation different
amounts. The main problem w/ indexing washers is that they sometimes stick
to the head tighter than the headband on a parts counter man's hat, and you
wind up adding even more washers next tune up. :-(

Hi-po motorheads I know tell me that indexing plugs is a waste anywhere
under 6000 RPM. I tried it once w/ the washers, and aside from quadrupling
the time it takes to do a plug change tune up, I didn't notice any
difference in performance.

A stock car racer tip I once read about is trimming back the side electrode
so it doesn't completely cover the center electrode. Same (or equivalent)
theory as the Splitfire plugs. Diagonal cutters, about 15 seconds per
plug, and a lot cheaper than $5 apiece for Splitfires. Seemed to give a
little better power passing on hills (seat o' the pants impression), but it
reduced the plug life by more than half.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 16:33:54 -0600
From: "Dave Resch"
Subject: Re: Timing light

I think the way the adjustable timing light works is that it reads the
engine's RPM and advances or delays the flash by a time interval calculated
from the RPM. (RPM x 360 = degrees of rotation per minute / 60 = degrees
per second, etc.) At any rate, the actual flash would be delayed by at
least one revolution to allow for advance.

The ones I have seen also have a display on the back (facing you when the
strobe is pointed away) that shows tach RPM, timing offset, and some show
dwell degrees. Below the display is a keypad where you punch in the degree
offset you want. With the tach readout, they're really nice for plotting
advance curves at specified RPMs. Unfortunately, the cheapest ones I've
seen cost about $100.

Dave R. (M-block devotee)
1980 F250 4x4 351M

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 15:37:30 +0000
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: pilot bearing update

Dave Resch wrote:
When I had to replace the diff
> cover gasket on the Dana 60 in my F250, it was pretty frustrating to tell
> them what I wanted and have them ask what vehicle it was for. My ranting
> to the effect that a Dana 60 was a Dana 60, regardless of what vehicle it
> was mounted in was only slightly gratifying to me.

Been there, Done that. I must have argued for about 10 minutes that
point exactly.

After all was said and done, the parts guy asked,

" Front or Rear?"

AAARRRRRGGGGG!!!

Round Two ding ding
- --
Don Grossman
duckdon pacific.net


63 Ford F-250 4x4 67' 390, t-98, Spicer 24, Dana 60, Dana 44

Phase 172: rebuild front suspension
>
------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 17:44:35 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: Spray on Bedliners

> There is major cleaning and it took 10 cans of Dupli-Color to do a Ford
> Ranger $6.99 to $7.99 a can suggested retail, I wouldn't call it the
cheap
> easy way to go, but perhaps the best!
> P/E-M for copie
>
>
>
> Deacon Blues
> deconblu gte.net

Has anybody tried this stuff?

Dale C.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:29:10 -0500
From: "Dale and Donna Carmine"
Subject: Re: parts chimps

> ...I don't know how they shave
> those chimps so closely THEN get them to stand behind that counter
> like they really give a sh*t.
>
....laughed so hard I cried....I guess there must not be any any parts guys
on this list......or are they just ducking the bullets?

dale c.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 19:59:06 -0400
From: billjhs
Subject: Flathead

Hello to all,

Does anyone know an easy way to replace the seals (front and rear main)
on the 51 flathead??? Seems mine is leaking from every orifice!!! Also,
it seems to be smoking alot at times on acceleration out of the draft
tube under the truck??? Bad rings or what ???

Thanks
BIll
1951 F-1

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Sep 1997 20:56:11 -0400
From: bbprice
Subject: Re: Prices For New in '64-65?

CARVER, JEFFREY D wrote:

> Anybody know what a new '65 F100
> sold for in 1964 or 65? I'm gathering info
> on my '64 F100 CrewCab purchased
> in 1965 by my dad, now owned by me!
>
> - Jeff '64 CrewCab
>

Jeff, my books don't show a Crew Cab for 1964.If you have the Warranty
Number, please compare it to the following, they are the prices I have
in my resources:

Body Style F-100
F-250 F-350
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------

80 Platform $2 ,000 $2,162
$2,369
81 Chassis cab $1,848 $2,011
$2,176
83 Flare Side (6.5ft) $1,964
- ----- ------
83 Style Side (6.5ft) $1,979
- ------ ------
83 Style Side (8ft) $2,016 $2,140
$2,322
86 Stake $2,055
$2,217 $2,423

According to my info, in 1965 Ford offered a Crew Cab in the F-250 and
F-350. The book I have notes that any crew cabs prior to this year were
only available from after market suppliers but it does not give any
pricing information for those options in either years. The above numbers
should get you in the ball park if no one else can come up with any info
for you.

Barry
1980 Ford F-150 302 Auto Extended Cab
1965 Ford F-100 300 3 speed Step side.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 18:35:31 -0000
From: "Kelly C. Mathiason"
Subject: [none]

Could you please take my name off your email list to much in coming
email



Thank you
K. Mathiason

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Sep 1997 22:40:34 -0500
From: "Brett McCoy"
Subject: Screwed My axle HELP!!

Try not to think me to much of an idiot as you read this. On Saturday me
and a buddy did a rear brake job on my '79 F250. Between parts runs and
looking for someone to turn the drums it took most of the afternoon and
evening. We finally got it done and adjusted right and were pretty beat.
So we called it a day without topping off the gear lub in the rear end.
Today when I was about five block from my house the right rear inner wheel
> bearing self distructed. I didn't know what it was at the time and limped
home the five blocks. Pulled it apart and found the inner bearing race
stuck firmly to the axle housing. Also the threads on the end of the
housing were slightly flared out. This made it very interesting to get the
nuts off. You don't even want to know how. We borrowed a universal
threaded and managed to get it to the point that the nuts will go on with
some grunt work and a half inch drive breaker bar. The problem is that the
bearings still won't slide on. There seems to be a small high spot
somewhere that keeps them from slipping over the threaded area of the
housing. Also when the nuts are threaded on there is a small amount of
play in them. Will this small amount of play be a problem? Any idea on
how to get the threads back to normal? Take pity on the stupid, give me
some ideas.

- -Brett

Older, wiser and definitely about to be poorer.

------------------------------

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