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Return-Path: Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 11:55:15 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #197 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Saturday, September 6 1997 Volume 01 : Number 197 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: FMX Transmission ["Bear" ] RE: FMX Transmission [DC Beatty ] Timing, vacs and stuff ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: F-350 Weak Brakes Update ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Split ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Split ["George Shepherd" ] Re: Attachments, my view.... [Ken Payne ] Re: Attachments, my view.... ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] 1937-48 Ford V-8 Engines ["Gene E. Bray" ] Re: Timing, vacs and stuff ["Mark Mech" ] Re: Timing, vacs and stuff ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] Re: Timing, vacs and stuff ["Mark Mech" ] Re: F150 with 460 [reedg L&L [reedg Re: Timing, vacs and stuff ["Gary, 78 BBB" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 05:41:17 -0500 From: "Bear" Subject: FMX Transmission Where do you plug in reverse lights on a FMX transmission. The tranny is from a 76 Torino and it is in a 78 F-150 Ranger. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 07:31:23 -0400 From: DC Beatty Subject: RE: FMX Transmission My FMX is in a '67 and it has no wires to it whatsoever. The backup light= switch for mine is integral with the neutral safety switch near the base = of the steering column, on the inside of the truck, down by the firewall. Hope this helps, DC Beatty 1967 F100 352 1974 Maverick 302 You wrote: is from a 76 Torino and it is in a 78 F-150 Ranger.>> ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 08:15:41 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Timing, vacs and stuff Tom and other friends, I believe I'm finally on to something with this timing thing and I'm really excited! :-) We've been discussing this for some time and it occured to me that there are several things that didn't get completely worked out but which I think I understand now: The 10 - 12 initial and 34 - 38 total with no vac it strictly a performance street or racing thing and requires a non stock distributor since stock distributors don't have enough range to get it done without modifications. Ford Dura Sparks have anywhere from 13 to 21 degrees in the mechanical advance and with even 12 degrees initial it still only gives you 33 degrees total and most of you do not have the 21 degree version. The rotor has two settings built into it and by rotating it on the stop 180 you can get the other setting. This requires removal of the pickup plate, felt pad, snap ring and springs (carefully). The range is stamped into the arm on the rotor near the slot the stop runs in. We build them here and I've looked for the highest range and found 21 to he the highest AFAIK. Idle only needs to keep the engine running so timing isn't critical here and is not part of the equation so initial can be what ever you need to make the rest of the range work. Obviously, moving the initial without changing the mechanical curve will also move the advance at any given rpm by the same amount which must be taken into account. The vac will probably fully retard no matter where the spring is adjusted at WOT so the initial timing is what causes spark knock, not the vac. The additional, seemingly excessive advance offered by the vac is only partially used except at idle and decelleration so the spring pressure determines the advance you will have at any given rpm and vacuum value (throttle position) so an adjustable stop is not necessary. To obtain best economy and still have full performance a vac is necessary since at cruise and part throttle the volumetric efficiency is lower and mixture is leaner so more advance is required, lots more. Here's what I've done so far if anyone cares: Initially I set the timing at 10 degrees but then discovered the vac wasn't working so I oiled it and freed it up and replaced the hoses. It was hooked to manifold, I don't think I have ported on this carb so I haven't tried it yet. After fixing all this and resetting to 10 degrees the spark knock was gone under normal operating conditions and it ran pretty well. Moved initial to 12 since every one said that's the thing to do to get more power and.............. Spark knock came back, found pickup plate bearings hanging again and re-oiled, checked mechanical and all was well but now it's knocking at low speeds and moderate throttle as well as at WOT. Reduced initial to 10 degrees and knock is better but still at low speeds and WOT it's bad. Crank in the vac three turns, still at 10 degrees and "seems" better but still there at WOT but now I have sluggish response at cruise and seems to need more pedal to hold 60. Back it out 4 turns (1 turn out from original setting) and knock doesn't seem to change much but now my response is back to normal at cruise and maybe just a tad better but have surge at 35 mph in high or near idle in third which I never noticed before. This morning I got up early so I could fool with it a bit and reset the initial to about 8 (didn't have time to mark the damper) and backed the vac out one more turn. Low speed surge seems to be gone, can't detect any serious spark knock under any conditions, vacuum is essetially the same (15") on level roads at cruise (60) and throttle response in cruise range is very good and requires very little pedal to maintain 60 so I expect economy to improve if only marginally. What I get from all of this is: 1..Initial timing is the spark knock culprit in most cases 2..factory curve is adequate for most applications except HIGH performance and racing when initial is properly set. 3..Vac is necessary for best street performance and economy and can be used to shift the cruise advance up or down with spring pressure. 4..Cruise and part throttle (light throttle) requires MUCH more advance than most of us would suspect for proper operation due to poor volumetric efficeincy and lean mixture, as high as 45 or 50 degrees possibly which is the job of the vac. I'm wearing my flame retardant suit today so flame away :-) The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 08:44:12 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: F-350 Weak Brakes Update > From: "Dale and Donna Carmine" > Subject: F-350 Weak Brakes Update > Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 18:38:35 -0500 > I did find that the left rear drum was full of grease and the > self-adjuster isn't working. Also found that the star wheel on the Axle grease? From the rear end? Better check the axle seals. This is a full floating axle so I don't know if the diff lube can get in the brakes or not but better check it out :-) The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 09:25:14 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Split > From: "jstrigas" > Subject: Split > Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 21:55:42 -0700 > split that said it would be better for us because. If a split is > best for a group then I can go with it. At 42 I'm not a kid and a > '73 isn't new. I'm not thinking of myself, reading about a '40s Ford > truck does me no good for my truck. They interest me because I'm a > Ford Truck Enthusiasts not a My Ford Truck Enthusiasts! > Split the list cost everyone resources! It's just my .02 so it's I'm subscribed to two list because they both have info I can use and I can share my experiences with an enthusiastic audience as well. If the old truck list is split into old and older lists I can still subscribe to both if I want and each reply will only go to the one it came from so I can still have all the info if I want but the guy who has limited time to browse the mail will appreciate a smaller, more pertainent list so we both win. I don't see what all the fuss is about, just pick a good spot and cut it, the rest of us will resubscribe to the older list or visa vera if we want, right??? The swift of foot and slow of wit have more off road experiences - -- Gary -- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 08:27:14 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: Split I agree. I don't have an early truck now, but when my dad had trucks in the late 40s and 50s, I worked on them. I still have service manuals (no they are not for sale) from them and I have posted replys to questions asked about early trucks. I like them, but I won't really have a reason to read a split list. maybe my .02 worth of advice aint worth much, but it will be lost to those not on "my" list. - ---------- > From: jstrigas > To: fordtrucks > Subject: Split > Date: Friday, September 05, 1997 11:55 PM > > If the list is split and someone needs help and no one seems to know the > answer on the list that the person is subscribed to, can they post to > another within the Ford Truck Enthusiasts list? If people want a split > that's up to a vote. After all I'm no Yankee! But consideration to the > people on the list will need to be looked at closely! I have been told that > people can join both list if thats what they want, so there would be no > problem, but it is because they can't post to a list that doesn't include > their truck. If they can post to another list then what's the reason for a > split? > I know people don't intend to sound rude and I do take it personaly, > shouldn't but I do. If people are in favor of a split that's fine the > problem I have is an opinion that effects the whole list and is me oriented. > So far I haven't seen one post that was in favor of a split that said it > would be better for us because. If a split is best for a group then I can go > with it. At 42 I'm not a kid and a '73 isn't new. I'm not thinking of > myself, reading about a '40s Ford truck does me no good for my truck. They > interest me because I'm a Ford Truck Enthusiasts not a My Ford Truck > Enthusiasts! > Split the list cost everyone resources! It's just my .02 so it's no big > deal. Does anyone else feel the same way I do? If it's only me then I'm > sorry, I would be out of line and I will stop! You have my word! > > > > > Deacon Blue > AKA Jim Strigas > jstrigas > > '73 F100 > '83 XJ900RK > '86 GL1200 Custom > > > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks > | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request > +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 09:48:20 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Attachments, my view.... At 05:01 PM 9/5/97 -0800, you wrote: >Payne, Kenneth wrote: > >> Ken >> -Admin, aka "List Mom" > >How about "List Dad"? > It actually makes more sense, but the term "List Mom" has long been used with mailing lists. It refers to "Den Mothers" of Cub Scout troops who have to manage 500 screaming kids at once without losing their cool. Ken, List Mo... err Dad ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 6 Sep 1997 09:54:55 +0000 From: "Gary, 78 BBB" Subject: Re: Attachments, my view.... > Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 09:48:20 -0400 > From: Ken Payne.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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