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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 09:40:50 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #193
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Friday, September 5 1997 Volume 01 : Number 193



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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In this issue:

Re: pilot bearing removal ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: '64 F100 Rear End Q's ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Bleeding Brakes ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: Bleeding Brakes [Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)]
RE: F150 [Kevin Lindstedt ]
still looking for VIN??? [Joe DeLaurentis ]
RE: F150 [Kevin Kemmerer ]
RE: F150 [Randy Collins ]
Re: F150 ["Mark Mech" ]
Re: Headers/Exhaust?? [SuperMagot aol.com]
Re: Bleeding Brakes ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
RE: F150 [Kevin Lindstedt ]

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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 06:30:45 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: pilot bearing removal

Pack the hole with heavy grease and using a dummy input shaft, hydrolic the
thing out by usein a hammer as pressure. J C Whitney and Harbor Freight
both sell pilot bearing removers.

- ----------
> From: Dave Resch
> To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
> Subject: pilot bearing removal
> Date: Thursday, September 04, 1997 1:16 PM
>
>
> OK Guys, need help:
>
Is there a way to get the pilot bearing
> out w/out a special tool?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice/help/sympathy.
>
> Dave R. (M-block devotee)
> 1980 F250 4x4 351M
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 07:27:50 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: '64 F100 Rear End Q's

> Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 14:16:35 -0800
> From: Don Grossman
> Subject: Re: '64 F100 Rear End Q's

> On the 63, it used the sealed bearing and an axle seal just inside
> the housing. If it is dammaged when replacing the axle it will
> leak. If there is a small bend in the end of the housing it will
> leak. When you replace the seal add some RTV to the surface that

Don't know if it's any better but I always use the brown aircraft
sealer on press in seals (national type) on the surface that touches
the bore it's pressed into, also on any "paper" type gaskets such as
water pumps, thermostate housings and front covers etc. but you
wouldn't want to use that anywhere there is movement such as rubber
gaskets etc..

I can remember the bearing very well but can't remember what the seal
looks like so I guess I'm no help here :-)

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 06:34:37 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes
>
A plate clamps on top of the MC resevour. Brake fluid is forced through a
hole in the plate. Neat little tool, but costs about $300 with plates for
various MCs. Most use air pressure to pressure a tank full of brake fluid.

- ----------
> From: Gary, 78 BBB
> To: fordtrucks ListService.net
> Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes
> > Date: Thursday, September 04, 1997 9:24 AM
>
> > Date: Thu, 04 Sep 1997 10:08:07 -0700
> > From: John MacNamara
> > Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes
> >
> > a problem here as the pedal is still mushy. I think I need to check
> > into this pressure bleed as I have heard several members mention it
>
> Ok, so how would one pressure bleed the brakes? With the master
> cylinder at rest the ports to the resivoir should be open so fluid
> could conceiveably be pushed backward through the bleeders but what
> equipment would you use? Squeeze bottle? Pump? Another master
> cylinder?
>
> The swift of foot and slow of wit
> have more off road experiences
>
> -- Gary --
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 05:12:05 -0700
From: Jeffrey.Carver Aerojet.com (CARVER, JEFFREY D)
Subject: Re: Bleeding Brakes
>
The best success I've ever had is to use gravity.
But there is a trick to it. I'll cover pressure bleeding
later.

I've tried the one way valve apparatus too.

The trick is to use a LONG clear plastic hose. Place
it over the bleed nipple and route it immediately UP
and over the tire, do not go down with it. Open the
bleed nipple and let gravity (or pressure assist) force
air out of the line and the air travels UP the tube to the
top of the tire. After getting the bubble up there, carefully
manipulate the hose to get the bubble to continue
traveling to the end of the hose and into a clear container.
Now you have a siphon assisting the bleeding into the jar.

After the major bubbles are out of the system, one can
SINGLEHANDEDLY bleed. Slowly press the brake pedal
and force more fluid through the lines. Of course,
keep an eye on fluid level.

Pressure bleeding. I used a Mity Mite vacuum unit
as my pressure source. Being paranoid about over
pressurizing, I fitted a pressure gauge into the line,
don't worry about doing that, the Mity Mite maxes out
at atmospheric pressure (14 psi), not enough to damage
any brake system.

I have a spare vehicle that included a fluid reservoir cap
(non Ford truck) that is plastic. I drilled out the small vent
hole and installed a threaded/barb fitting for drip irrigation
systems into the hole. It leaked a little, but not enough
to prevent pressurization. With a long hose between the
Mity Mite and the reservoir, I could pump at the same time
see what was coming out of the bleed fitting through
the clear tubing. Should be able to do this with a metal
> cap too.

Whew, long winded, but . . . . . . . hopes this helps.

- - Jeff '64 F100 CrewCab

> a problem here as the pedal is still mushy. I think I need to check
> into this pressure bleed as I have heard several members mention it

Ok, so how would one pressure bleed the brakes? With the master
cylinder at rest the ports to the resivoir should be open so fluid
could conceiveably be pushed backward through the bleeders but what
equipment would you use? Squeeze bottle? Pump? Another master
cylinder?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 07:31:49 -0500
From: Kevin Lindstedt
Subject: RE: F150

Yes, I do. 1978 F150 Ranger Lariat 2wd 460/C6

Kevin

- -----Original Message-----
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net [SMTP:reedg ns2.cetlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 1997 2:28 PM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: F150

Does anyone have a '73 to 78 F150 that came with a 460 as original
equipment?




Attachment Converted: "C:\Internet\DOWNLOAD\WINMAIL7.DAT"

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 05 Sep 1997 09:43:36 -0400
From: Joe DeLaurentis
Subject: still looking for VIN???

I am still searching for my vin on my 68 f-100...Seing that my door
was replaced and no vin plate..I would like to find the vin on the
frame.Where should i look???I looked by the steering box and ny the fram
on tjhe pass. side near the cab...What side of the frame???Side, Top, Or
bottom???Or could
it be under some crud on the frame??

THANKS
Joe

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Date: Fri, 5 Sep 1997 09:24:22 -0400
From: Kevin Kemmerer
Subject: RE: F150

kevin
just curious, what rear axle does it have? a 9" or dana? is it a long bed or short bed?




- ----------
From: Kevin Lindstedt[SMTP:klindstedt mcdanielfire.com]
Sent: Friday, September 05, 1997 8:31 AM
To: 'fordtrucks ListService.net'
Subject: RE: F150

Yes, I do. 1978 F150 Ranger Lariat 2wd 460/C6

Kevin

- -----Original Message-----
From: reedg ns2.cetlink.net [SMTP:reedg ns2.cetlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 1997 2:28 PM
To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: F150

Does anyone have a '73 to 78 F150 that came with a 460 as original
equipment?



+-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
| Send posts to fordtrucks ....

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