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Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 15:54:12 -0600 (MDT)
From: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net (fordtrucks-digest)
To: fordtrucks-digest ListService.net
Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #188
Reply-To: fordtrucks ListService.net
Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest ListService.net


fordtrucks-digest Wednesday, September 3 1997 Volume 01 : Number 188



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest
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=======================================================================
In this issue:

Re: Which Welder?? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Brakes.... ["Payne, Kenneth" ]
Re: Vibration in 3rd gear? ["Gary, 78 BBB" ]
Re: Door Panels for 74 F250 ["George Shepherd" ]
Re: C6 Noise [Don Grossman ]
Where is T-18 Backup light Switch? [Joe Dallatore ]
Re: Brakes.... [John MacNamara ]
RE: Where is T-18 Backup light Switch? [Randy Collins
ATT.dat? ["Deacon Blue" ]
ATT####.dat ["Payne, Kenneth" ]
Online Engine Parts Catalogs ["Dave Resch"]
Re: Where is T-18 Backup light Switch? ["George Shepherd"
Re: 302 front cover [bbprice ]
1964 Ford Mercury Pickup [Gerry Beauregard
Re: 302 front cover ["Mark Mech" ]
Timing Chain Questions [Keith Srb ]

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:25:38 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Which Welder??

> From: "Brett McCoy"
> Subject: Which Welder??
> Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 21:22:04 -0500

> rod. I was looking at a small wire feed but am not sure if I want
> to spend three or four hundred on one right now. So here is where I
> need your advice. Do I keep the small (70 amp 120 volt) welder? Do
> I hold out for a wire feed some day? What would you all do?

The wire feed (if large enough) can weld most of your projects as
well as a stick and generally is easier to use and make a good weld
with (for inexperienced welders). I've used heli-arc, wire and stick
as well as gas and must say I like the wire for most applications
including and especially body work (no good at it but can see the
advantages) and vertical welds (no good at that either)

You need at least 120 amps, 20% duty cycle for moderate all
around auto projects and probably less for strictly body work with
.030 or smaller wire. I use .035 but I weld heavier stuff most of
the time and take my time with the sheet metal. When I get my new
hose assy. I think I will be going to a smaller wire since it will
weld big stuff as well. Mine is 240 v 160 amp Dip/Stick with TIG
capability if I buy the parts for it and I like it very much.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:25:43 -0400
From: "Payne, Kenneth"
Subject: Brakes....

I haven't followed this thread very closely so if this has
already been suggested then please ignore it.

First, if the entire brake system has been "rebuilt", including
the calipers, and standing on it will not make the wheels
> lock then I suggest the following....

Take off the master cylinder, pull out the push-rod from the
vacuum booster and adjust it. This item can "screw-in" after
several years and thereby reduce the amount of "usuable"
peddle travel, ie. the first inch of peddle movement becomes
ineffective.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:35:57 +0000
From: "Gary, 78 BBB"
Subject: Re: Vibration in 3rd gear?

> Date: Sun, 31 Aug 1997 20:58:29 -0400
> From: Joe DeLaurentis
> Subject: Vibration in 3rd gear?

> Can anybody help with this...My 68 f100 with 4spd and 302 has a
> nasty vibration in 3rd gear...Since I start out in 2nd due to the
> granny 1st and hit around 25-30 in 3rd I get a vibration that shakes
> the whole truck,but get past 30-35 and its smooth sailing...?????
> ANYBODY? Joe +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older

I haven't delved into it yet but my NP435 vibrates in third and
second as well but not so much in high. My throw out bearing is bad
and I suspect the imput shaft bearings are bad as well but I suspect
a lot of the vibration is transmitted through the chasis (since the
entire drive train is cast iron and steel) from tires, drive shafts,
worn differential gears, engine accessories, transfer case backlash
and finally the transmission itself so I'm not convinced yet the
tranny is really the biggest contributor. In fact the transfer case
could be transmitting most of the vibration since mine feels similar
in all gears but worse in third I think. I can "feel" some mis-match
in the gears somewhere too I think like loose bearings in one of the
clusters or something but can't be sure till I tear it down.

The swift of foot and slow of wit
have more off road experiences

- -- Gary --

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:17:20 -0500
From: "George Shepherd"
Subject: Re: Door Panels for 74 F250

- ----------
> From: Tom Hogan
> To: 'Ford Trucks'
> Subject: RE: Door Panels for 74 F250
> Date: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 11:03 AM
>
> If you mean the interior door panels, the latest JC Whitney catalog I
> got has them listed for the 73-79. They had a decent color selection
> too, but they did not have the color I needed (Green).

Thats what vinal upolstry spray if for.

I'm thinking
> about changing the color scheme for the upholstery in my truck. Anybody
> have an opinion on what color upholstery would look good in a green
> truck?
>
> BTW, the catalog also lists the weather strip that goes on the bottom of
> the side window inside and outside.
>
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 2 Sep 1997 14:17:28 -0700
> From: Keith Srb
> Subject: Door Panels for 74 F250
>
> Does any body have any idea where I can get replacement door panels for
> a 74
> F250, OEM or custom built?
>
> Thanks
>
> TTFN
>
> Keith Srb herbie netvalue.net
> 1986 Ford Bronco II, 2.9L (I HATE LITERS) V-6, Mitsubishi 5-Speed.
> 1980 Harley Davidson, XLH, Rebuilt from the frame up.
> 1974 Ford F250 Ranger XLT, 390ci 4bbl, Automatic, Long Box, Style Side.
> 1966 Ford F100, 240 C.I. Straight Six, Warner T-18 4-Speed, Short Box.
> My Blood runs "TRUE BLUE FORD on Four Wheels and Pure HARLEY on Two
> Wheels!"
>
>
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 10:26:43 -0800
From: Don Grossman
Subject: Re: C6 Noise

Have you checked the pinion bearings in your rear end? When one of
those is about to go it will also make one of those high pitched
noises. Find a good hill or flat area and drop it into Neeutral and
coast. If the pitch gets hight as you speed up or lower as you slow
down it will be much more noticeable with the engine noise reduced.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 13:33:34 -0400
From: Joe Dallatore
Subject: Where is T-18 Backup light Switch?

Hi all.

I have a 73 F250, 360 with a T-18 4 sp. Can anyone tell me where the
backup light switch is located? I spent a lot of time on the ground under
the truck (no lift available) and can't seem to find it. No wires lead to
trans now, so I can't follow the wire to find it (the B/U lights don't
work, and that may be why...) Should it be reachable from below or do I
have to remove the access plate in the Cab floor to see it?

Thanks in advance!
Joe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 10:45:16 -0700
From: John MacNamara
Subject: Re: Brakes....

Payne, Kenneth wrote:
>
> I haven't followed this thread very closely so if this has
> already been suggested then please ignore it.
>
> First, if the entire brake system has been "rebuilt", including
> the calipers, and standing on it will not make the wheels
> > lock then I suggest the following....
>
> Take off the master cylinder, pull out the push-rod from the
> vacuum booster and adjust it. This item can "screw-in" after
> several years and thereby reduce the amount of "usuable"
> peddle travel, ie. the first inch of peddle movement becomes
> ineffective.
>
> +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+
> | Send posts to fordtrucks listservice.net, |
> | Send Unsubscribe requests to fordtrucks-request listservice.net |
> +-- Visit Our Web Site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ --+

Kenneth: That is certainly worth trying although there was no
difference between the old master cylinder and the new one when I
changed it. I am more interested in the fact that a previous gentleman
suggested that there is a unique master cylinder for an F350 that has a
larger piston than a F250. This sounds like what I need but I sent a
response asking if there is a way to identify the two different master
cylinders.

Thanks for your suggestion

John MacNamara

78 F250 4X4 Supercab

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Sep 1997 12:23:21 -0700
From: Randy Collins
Subject: RE: Where is T-18 Backup light Switch?

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BCB864.2E42C760
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Joe,

On the automatic transmission equipped versions of these trucks from =
around 1973 to early 1977 I believe the back up switch and neutral =
safety start switch is located on the steering column inside the cab =
near the floorboard. I think the backup switch on the NP 435 simply =
plugs into the transmission. I am not sure about the T-18 though. If =
it was my truck I would check the column first and then check the =
transmission. =20


Randy Collins
Boise, Idaho
rcollins micron.net

1975 Ford F250 4WD Supercab "Muscle Truck"
Soon to have the following Randy installed options:
460 C-6



- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Dallatore [SMTP:jdallato cisco.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 1997 10:34 AM
To: Fordtrucks ListService.net
Subject: Where is T-18 Backup light Switch?

Hi all.

I have a 73 F250, 360 with a T-18 4 sp. Can anyone tell me where the
backup light switch is located? I spent a lot of time on the ground =
under
the truck (no lift available) and can't seem to find it. No wires lead =
to
trans now, so I can't follow the wire to find it (the B/U lights don't
work, and that may be why...) Should it be reachable from below or do I
have to remove the access plate in the Cab floor to see it? =20

Thanks in advance!
Joe


=00
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