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Return-Path: Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 23:22:13 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #182 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Monday, September 1 1997 Volume 01 : Number 182 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: Re: fordtrucks-digest V1 #181 [Schottsweb T-10 trans. [Schottsweb Re: Electrolisis derusting process [OldTrux Re: fordtrucks-digest V1 #181 [OldTrux 73-79 pickup ammeter [Tom Hogan ] Murphy's Law [reedg Re: List breakdown. [Ken Payne ] Corrosion Control [JSanc82344 Re: Murphy's Law [Ken Payne ] Re: Electrolisis derusting process [Ken Payne ] Re: Which Welder?? ["Brett McCoy" ] Re: Murphy's Law ["George Shepherd" ] Re: Which Welder?? [canzus 302 front cover ["Mark Mech" ] Re: Which Welder?? [sdelanty Re:digest V1 #180/Welders... [sdelanty Re: Which Welder?? ["Deacon Blue" ] Re: List breakdown. [HYDROSMITH Duraspark II [danadeb Re: 302 front cover ["Donald R. Screen" ] re:electrolisis ["The Gautschi Family" ] ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 17:39:43 -0400 From: Schottsweb Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V1 #181 Well Don nothing really says that .023 is better than .030 or .035 or even .045 for that matter I was simply going by what was needed for the application .023 for sheetmetal work .030 for 1/8 to 3/16 .035 to 3/8 and .045 for 1/2 and greater if you want to be technical that is. Duke's Fine 69 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 17:43:00 -0400 From: Schottsweb Subject: T-10 trans. I think someone brought this up but I lost it. would a T-10 trans. be a bolt in on a 69 F-100 which has a 3 spd. in it now? Duke's Fine 69 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 19:33:50 -0400 (EDT) From: OldTrux Subject: Re: Electrolisis derusting process I too would like to hear about this process.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 20:37:43 -0400 (EDT) From: OldTrux Subject: Re: fordtrucks-digest V1 #181 Can a welder that is sold as a 030 wire feed be fed 024 wire with no other changes? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 17:44:49 -0700 From: Tom Hogan Subject: 73-79 pickup ammeter Well I've figured out why most ammeters don't work on these pickups. later Broncos (78-79) might be included (if they have a similar looking dash). Basically these trucks have a shunt type ammeter. The current flows thru the meter in this case. In earlier Broncos they had the loop type ammeter. Ford put a shunt in the wiring harnes to carry the bulk of the current from the alternator. The problem is that the resistance of that shunt is too low ( zero ohms?) to direct any current to the ammeter. Try putting an ammeter in an electric circuit and then connect a straight wire across the leads and see what you read on the meter. I have found the shunt's location in the harness and I need a piece of resistor wire to put in there .01 to .02 ohms per foot or similar. If anyone knows where I can get some of this please let me know. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 21:08:09 +0000 From: reedg Subject: Murphy's Law I'm not going into all the things that went wrong with this engine > swap, but the last thing that went wrong was when the engine hoist bent a leg and the 460 came tumbling down. Please let me know that I'm not the only one that has problems when I try to do something like this. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 21:37:26 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: List breakdown. At 11:36 AM 9/1/97 -0700, you wrote: >Why don't we go ahead and have everyone participate in little >information gathering. Lets have a tally of how many and what years >trucks we own, and break down the list accordingly. There could be a >page set up that only the members can enter what year trucks we have and >it would keep a running total. There might be a higher number of truck >from say 67-72 and that would require a list break at 66 and older, who >knows. > >I would hate to see a list like 1920's and older and have only two >people in it. > >So far I see the list going this way. > >1. 80 and up(I don't keep up on this list much so it might need to be >broken up also) > >2. 57-79 > a. 67-79 > b. 57-66 > >If there is really a need to break this down further go with a and b > >3. 56 and older. > >Just my HO. >-- If we went strickly by numbers, the 1980+ list would be the most likely candidate for a split. It surpassed the 1979- group in number of members earlier this last week. However, the 79- list sees at least 3x more messages posted. I'm planning on having a survey form on the web site up within a week, along with email instructions for those who don't have form compatible browsers. By using a form we get a consistant and easy to read outline of our membership. Like the last survey (which I foolishly deleted the results a couple weeks later), it will survey by year, model and engine family. Additionally, it will have city, state and country listed. I think its best to keep the actual survey off the list as last time I had over 200 responses in 4 days (and we had 1/3 as many members). This time I'll keep the results on the web site > and ask members to fill out the survey when they join. Right now I'm testing an on-line survey/voting CGI script. This script keeps a real-time running total available with password protection (password will be given out to everyone via the lists). The survey form will also have 2-3 alternative lists/cut-off dates. The one with the highest amount will get voted on. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 21:38:54 -0400 (EDT) From: JSanc82344 Subject: Corrosion Control I have just started the process of painting a 1956 F-100. Can anybody advise me what are the best methods used to get rid of corrosion before or while priming? Are there any products that eliminate rust effectively? This truck has been abandoned for several years and is full of rust. Particularly the door bottom edges, the hood on the inside, the cab top edges, and the bottom corners of the cab. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Joe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 22:00:06 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Murphy's Law At 09:08 PM 9/1/97 +0000, you wrote: >I'm not going into all the things that went wrong with this engine > >swap, but the last thing that went wrong was when the engine hoist >bent a leg and the 460 came tumbling down. Please let me know that >I'm not the only one that has problems when I try to do something >like this. I changed my truck over to disc brakes not because I wanted them (I did), but because I damaged the spindle on the drum system while trying to remove a stuck bearing. I now know the proper way to remove spindle bearings! A month ago I helped a friend change his over to disc brakes. After carefully measuring and bending all the steel lines and hooking it all together, it became apparent we had the front and rear brake circuits crossed when we started to bleed it. Or having a hell of a time trying to get a smooth idle only to kick myself for having the distributor off by on gear tooth (dooh!!). Or the time (with my last truck) I was taking off the water pump and I ended up with the wrench handle sticking into my radiator when it slipped. You're not alone! Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 01 Sep 1997 22:02:11 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: Electrolisis derusting process At 09:10 AM 9/1/97 -0600, you wrote: >Hi All, > >I've been cleaning up the original wheels from my 61 Unibody, and have >used a process called Electrolisis which removes ALL rust right down to >a beautiful light gray bare metal. >This process doesn't damage the metal in any way like grinding or >sandblasting does. >It's also cheap! > >I was wondering if I should post a "how to" to the list? > >L8tr >Bill Adams > >Let me know what you think. > Go for it! If its anything like the methods for chroming it ought to be fairly simple. Ken ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 21:31:27 -0500 From: "Brett McCoy" Subject: Re: Which Welder?? >George Said >Bret, >I weld everyday for a living what you need is a wire feed mig machine >and use .023 wire also make sure you get the correct contact tips. This >is going to be your best choice it's easy light weight and very >versital. Well I already took the small arch welder back. Just figured that I would want something better some day. Now I just have to wait to get the money for the MIG or Wire feed. Here is the next question. Why not just get a flux core wire feed? I seem to recall something about not being able to use a MIG welder outside if it is windy. Is this true? Do the flux core wire feed welders have the same problem? Any other opinions on this from anyone else? - -B ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Sep 1997 21:15:48 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: Murphy's Law My 351 in the 81 Bronco has a big dent in the oil pan from the same malady. - ---------- > From: reedg > To: fordtrucks > Subject: Murphy's Law > Date: Monday, September 01, 1997 4:08 PM > > I'm not going into all the things that went wrong with this engine > > swap, but the last thing that went wrong was when the engine hoist > bent a leg and the 460 came tumbling down. Please let me know that > I'm not the only one that has problems when I try to do something > like this. > +-------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 and Older --------------+ > | Send posts to fordtrucks.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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