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Return-Path: Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 04:00:23 -0600 (MDT) From: owner-fordtrucks-digest To: fordtrucks-digest Subject: fordtrucks-digest V1 #168 Reply-To: fordtrucks Sender: owner-fordtrucks-digest fordtrucks-digest Tuesday, August 26 1997 Volume 01 : Number 168 ======================================================================= Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks Digest Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - To unsubscribe, send email to: fordtrucks-digest-request with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the message. ======================================================================= In this issue: '65 CC in Texas [John Strauss ] Re: 351M to 460 Nightmare [TDimartina 68 [MadPoodle 68 F100 drum to disc conversion [Mark Goods ] 1965 Restoration [bbprice ] Re: F-1 vs F-100 [TNickolson Re: 68 F100 drum to disc conversion ["George Shepherd" Oil pan problem [Schottsweb Re: 68 F100 drum to disc conversion [Ken Payne ] RE: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1 [Dan Wentz ] 68 Ford Brake swap???? [Joe DeLaurentis ] Re: peculiar gasoline question [sdelanty Re: 68 Ford Brake swap???? ["George Shepherd" ] RE:Power Steering Assist, 50 F1 [danadeb 54 ford mainline [danadeb ======================================================================= ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 08:03:29 -0500 From: John Strauss Subject: '65 CC in Texas If anybody close to Austin, Texas is looking for a restoration project I just ran across a fairly clean '65 CC SWB Styleside in a gas station's storage lot. It's been sitting for a few years but it's complete (even the chrome) from what I can see and only has the usual rust at the drip rail on the roof. The owner reports it's a six/3-speed and he want's $500 for it. Email me if you need more info. _ _| ~~. John Strauss \, _} jstrauss \( Texas Fight! ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 09:12:22 -0400 (EDT) From: TDimartina Subject: Re: 351M to 460 Nightmare The motor mounts from L&L work great and are life time guarantied. They also carry all products for 460 conversions. I used their products swapping a 1977 Mercury 460 into a 1976 F250. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 11:16:06 -0400 (EDT) From: MadPoodle Subject: 68 Regarding the 302, I have no idea about the availabilty of small blocks, but I know FOMOCO started slipping 302's in the Mustang midyear in place of the 289. They just did not tell anyone. My 68 has a 302, badged and decaled as a 289.... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 12:36:56 -0400 From: Mark Goods Subject: 68 F100 drum to disc conversion I'll try posting this again. Sorry if it's made it through before: I know this may have been discused before, if so please forgive me. I have a 1968 F100 and I would like to change the front drums to disc. What are the parts needed? Can these parts be aquired from another truck from the junkyard? How hard is this job for a "Shadetree"? Any other advice would be helpful. Thanks in advance. Mark 68 F100 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 15:18:47 -0400 From: bbprice Subject: 1965 Restoration I am currently sanding and priming rust spots on the cab of my 65 Step side. The filler in the seams of the cab on the exterior are cracked and flaking out. Should I remove all of the filler or just sand it. If the recommendation is to remove it then what should I replace it with? ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 15:58:39 -0400 (EDT) From: TNickolson Subject: Re: F-1 vs F-100 1052's are F1, I believe that was the last year. Some 53 parts will fit a 52 or the other way around. Tom ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 17:22:43 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: 68 F100 drum to disc conversion Since disk brakes were an option in 68, I guess on 68-72 disk brake set up would swap. Need master cylinder, brake lines, porportion valve and all parts off the spindle. - ---------- > From: Mark Goods > To: 'fordtrucks-digest > Subject: 68 F100 drum to disc conversion > Date: Monday, August 25, 1997 11:36 AM > > I'll try posting this again. Sorry if it's made it through before: > > I know this may have been discused before, if so please forgive me. I have > a 1968 F100 and I would like to change the front drums to disc. What are > the parts needed? Can these parts be aquired from another truck from the > junkyard? How hard is this job for a "Shadetree"? Any other advice would be > helpful. Thanks in advance. > > Mark > 68 F100 > > > > > ======================================================================= > Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks > Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > To unsubscribe, send email to: > fordtrucks-request > with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send > email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the > message. > ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 18:56:40 -0400 From: Schottsweb Subject: Oil pan problem I have a 69 2wd. 3spd. trans. with a 240 in it I got a 71 302 from a Falcon my problem is that I was told I needed to get a different oil pan for this application so I called the local yard and the guy says he just happens to have a 69 truck w/ a 302 I go to pick up the oil pan and it looks exactly like the one that is on the motor now is there some difference in the oil pans that is not seen by looking at it i.e. amount of oil or depth or something else? I really need to know because I did'nt buy it and it is the only one I've been able to find in my area. That leads to my next question is the 302 in a 69 a rare motor? One more question where can I get the motor mounts for this swap? I need the chassis as well as the motor. Thanks for your help and thanks to Ken for a great place to get good answers and advice it is appreciated. Duke's Fine 69 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 20:46:37 -0400 From: Ken Payne Subject: Re: 68 F100 drum to disc conversion At 12:36 PM 8/25/97 -0400, you wrote: >I'll try posting this again. Sorry if it's made it through before: > >I know this may have been discused before, if so please forgive me. I have >a 1968 F100 and I would like to change the front drums to disc. What are >the parts needed? Can these parts be aquired from another truck from the >junkyard? How hard is this job for a "Shadetree"? Any other advice would be >helpful. Thanks in advance. > >Mark >68 F100 > Mark, First, someone else mentioned finding a 68-72 truck with front disc. Good luck! Its going to be extremely difficult to find one. Your best bet is a 73-79 donor, since all the 4x2s (that I know of) had them. Parts needed: 1. spindles from a 73-79. will run $100-$200 bucks, depending on the yard 2. rubber brake hoses, $9-$15 each, specify 73-79 3. master cylinder and proportioning valve from junk yard $25-$40, 73-79 4. brake lines $1.50-$3.00 a stick, get 5 or 6 as you'll probably mess up at least one. Also, get the longest they have, should be 3/16" size line. 5. couplers, about a buck a piece. These are items you'll need if you have to junction two steel lines together 6. bending and flairing tool $25 7. protractor, $1 8. bracket, I got one at home depot that I bent for about $2, to mount the proportioning valve to the frame 9. king pin kit. again, specify 73-79. $40-$65 10. new brake pads $15 (install them on the spindles before they're on the truck as its easier) 15. new brake calipers. Might as well do this before the new spindles are on. Makes the brakes as good as factory new. $9-$10 per caliper. I actually paid $9 and got $15 back for each core so I ended up getting **paid** 4 bucks each to buy them!! 16. brake line clips, for fastening steel lines to each other and the frame. 17. 4 gallons of Gatoraide Removing the old spindles is very hard work, you need a torch to heat them up and a very heavy hammer. If you can find a suspension shop that will do the swap, count on $200, plus you'll have to have a tow truck ready to take it home. If you choose to do this part yourself, let me know and I'll detail it. Its hard work, but not brain surgery. Basically, lube the king-pins a couple of nights before. There are lube points on the top and bottom of the spindles. Unscrew those lube caps, put some penetrating oil in and put the caps back on. Then use a lube pump to lube them, which should help force some of the penetrating oil down around the kind pin. Have the tire and brake hardware off when you get ready to remove the king pin. Take off the caps, use a torch to get the area around the king pin red hot (or damn close) and put a solid piece of hard steel on top of the king pin (you can probably find some sort of driver rod for this) and give it the hardest wack you can muster with about a 48oz (or bigger) hammer. This is a real tough job at this point. I can go into more detail if you want but you get the idea. Put the new spindles on, fairly straight forward. Its just the opposite of taking them off. Just remember to put the new king pin bushing in place and try to be gentle driving the new king pin in as you don't want to mushroom the end of it. Installing is a whole lot easier than taking one out. Once everything is back together, lube it. Then, install the rubber brake lines. Swap the master cylinder (10 minute job), install the proporting valve on the left hand frame rail behind the tranny support. You'll need to use the protractor at this point to measure and bend the lines to orginal curves. This is a bitch and is very time consuming when you're on your back. Count on nearly a full day to replace the lines, flair the ends and getting them to run as close as possible to the old line locations. Next, bleed the entire system. Twice.... just to make sure! If you need more details, let me know. I can walk you through this procedure if you want me to. I converted my truck several months ago and did a friends a month weeks ago. Its alot of work, not cheap (but not expensive either), but the results are amazing. The king pins are by far the hardest part. One word of advice, before you install the new brake lines, get a scraper and remove all the gunk and grease from the frame and all surrounding areas. This will make the job a whole lot easier, not to mention not as unpleasant. Align it. It will be so far out of alignment that driving it 1 mile will probably tear the tires off (no kidding) if you don't end up in a ditch first. If you can't align it yourself, get it towed! Do not drive it in this condition! Once the discs are in place, not only will it stop better and have a lot less brake fade, it will stear easier with the new king pins. This is above the level of (most) shade tree mechanics. It doesn't take technical expertise but it really can try the average Joe's patience as it will take a whole weekend (or longer). If you want to give it a try, let us know and we'll walk you through it. - -Ken List Administrator, 1967 Ford F100, 390FE V8 Our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 17:44:08 -0700 From: Dan Wentz Subject: RE: Power Steering Assist, 50 F1 >I Don't know if this will help you but... >I know that on cars Ford had a 3 piece Bendix power steering setup. I have one >on my '74 Maverick that I was forced to rebuild, and have seen them on Granada's >and even on a '66 Mustang. This sounds somewhat like what is being discussed, as >some of the hoses go to the Control Valve that screw onto (or in the case of the >old Mustang was integral with) the end of the drag link. Some hoses also go >between this Valve and the Power Ram (looks like a shock absorber bolted up into >the whole mess). That sure sounds like it! If I knew what parts to get I'd much rather make my own than buy the super-expensive kit. By the way, for anyone following this topic, or for anyone who is just curious, I scanned some pictures of the power assist kit from the Sacramento Vintage catalog and put them on my webpage (address below). The link to the pictures is near the top of the page. ~Dan 1992 Ford Mustang LX 1950 Ford F1, 351C-2V Check out my F1 page: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.GeoCities.com/MotorCity/3623 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 21:40:07 -0400 From: Joe DeLaurentis Subject: 68 Ford Brake swap???? Would a 73-79 150 or 78-79 Bronco Dana 44 front axle swap in a 68 f100?? So i would get the better axle then the 30 plus disc brakes...???? Joe ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 19:12:57 -0700 From: sdelanty Subject: Re: peculiar gasoline question >DC Beatty wrote: >> >> I know from previous posts that there are some petroleum geniuses out there on >> the list. I have a question: >> >> Last week 5 gallons of 112 octane racing gas accidentally :-) found its way into >> my trucks' gas tank. It seemed from looking at the gas gauge and from driving >> normally that my gas mileage increased dramatically when using this gas >> straight. Is it possible that this gas could *dramatically* increase engine >> efficiency and thus gas mileage? I'm curious. Daver Replies: >Yes you get more horses out of each explosion. > >Molater > >Daver O.K. I'll bite... Why do You get more horses from each explosion??? I thought the net calorific values for automotive and aviation fuels was about 43-44 MegaJoules/kg regardless of octane value? Does the 112 octane You use contain nitromethane or any other substances that increase the calorific content? Unless You are buying something really fancy I doubt it... Many of the ingrediants used to increase octain actually decrease the calorific content slightly... The higher octane values only reduce the tendancy to "spontaniously autoignite" under high heat/pressure conditions. If a motor isn't having any pinging/detonation problems, increasing the octane rating doesn't do squat except lighten Your wallet and provide some psycological benefit (placebo effect....) If You are having pinging problems already, or if higher octane fuels allow You to increase compression or run better optimized timing curves without detonation, then there is an advantage to higher octane. Just for fun, heres some specific heat numbers from the "gasoline faq" : Energy Content Heat of Vaporisation Oxygen Content Nett MJ/kg MJ/kg wt% Methanol 19.95 1.154 49.9 Ethanol 26.68 0.913 34.7 MTBE 35.18 0.322 18.2 ETBE 36.29 0.310 15.7 TAME 36.28 0.323 15.7 Gasoline 42 - 44 0.297 0.0 Typical values for commercial fuels in megajoules/kilogram are [37]:- Gross Nett Hydrogen 141.9 120.0 Carbon to Carbon monoxide 10.2 - Carbon to Carbon dioxide 32.8 - Sulfur to sulfur dioxide 9.16 - Natural Gas 53.1 48.0 Liquified petroleum gas 49.8 46.1 Aviation gasoline 46.0 44.0 Automotive gasoline 45.8 43.8 Kerosine 46.3 43.3 Diesel 45.3 42.5 These numbers came from the gasoline faq at: For anyone interested in gasoline, what it is and why, I recommend this site as a *very* good read. It is quite long and has lots of chemistry and stuff, but is extremely informative... It debunks a lot of myths and old wives tales about automotive fuel. Happy motoring, Steve Delanty 1971 F100 FE390 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 21:50:51 -0500 From: "George Shepherd" Subject: Re: 68 Ford Brake swap???? My book says it will, but check which side the pumpkin is on and the spring perches and shock mounting. Sometime in 72 or 73 they widened the frame and the spring perches would have to be moved. - ---------- > From: Joe DeLaurentis > To: fordtrucks > Subject: 68 Ford Brake swap???? > Date: Monday, August 25, 1997 8:40 PM > > Would a 73-79 150 or 78-79 Bronco Dana 44 front axle swap in a 68 f100?? > So i would get the better axle then the 30 plus disc brakes...???? > Joe > ======================================================================= > Ford Truck Enthusiasts - 1979 And Older Trucks > Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com/ > - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - > To unsubscribe, send email to: > fordtrucks-request > with the word "unsubscribe" in the body of the message. For help, send > email to the same address with the word "help" in the body of the > message. > ======================================================================= ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 21:59:54 -0700 From: danadeb Subject: RE:Power Steering Assist, 50 F1 There is a shop in california called So.Cal. Pickups in Buena Park (714 area code) They specialize in early F-1s, F-100s to mid 60s F-100s, at one time they had a steering setup Like you described. also look in "Trucking" Magazine (many adds). Also don't forget magazines and shops dedicated to the early (30s) hot rods, many parts swap to trucks. (I am in no way affiliated with the above shop or mag. they are just.... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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