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Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 23:45:52 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
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Subject: pre61-list Digest V2001 #63
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pre61-list Digest Thu, 22 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 063

In This Issue:
Classified fees
Re: drive shaft shortening
Re: Classified fees
Re: Timing and dwell
Heads on a 302
Re: Timing and dwell
Re: Classified fees
ADMIN: Ford Vehicle id contest results
ADMIN: New FTE Sponsor
Re: 302 in '52 F-1
Re: drive shaft shortening

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: DewayneReding aol.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 20:39:06 EST
Subject: Classified fees

Should be a way to stay solvent and allow for small items too.  Four bucks
wasn't economical when I sold my glove box lock last week so I sailed to eBay
when the site asked for the $4 payment.  However I'm sure I would not have
felt that way if I was selling a Mint 56 F100 for $4.  Should be a way to
make the ad price match the item for sale without making Ken's life more
hectic.

For what it's worth
Dewayne Reding



------------------------------

From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:17:57 EST
Subject: Re: drive shaft shortening


In a message dated 3/22/01 17:11:11 Pacific Standard Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:

<< Subject: drive shaft shortening


Hi Ya'll.
 I swapped rear ends and need to shorten my drive shaft. How do I measure
for
the correct length? My truck has the two peice shaft with carrier bearing.
Any advice?

Thanks,
Paul
 >>

I did not shorten my driveshaft myself. I'm not sure if you are going to try
to do this. I called a shop in Memphis and measured it the way they told me.
They shortened and balanced mine for about $75.

Glenn in TN
57 F100 -- in process
93 Mercury Capri (you think parts are hard to find for the 57-60 F100's!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:57:51 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Re: Classified fees


Should be a way to stay solvent and allow for small items too.  Four bucks
>wasn't economical when I sold my glove box lock last week so I sailed to eBay
>when the site asked for the $4 payment.  However I'm sure I would not have
>felt that way if I was selling a Mint 56 F100 for $4.  Should be a way to
>make the ad price match the item for sale without making Ken's life more
>hectic.
>
>For what it's worth
>Dewayne Reding

It would cost me more to implement such a system than
we would recoup.

Ken



------------------------------

From: "Bill Hendrickson" <billjhs bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Timing and dwell
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:56:41 -0800



----- Original Message -----
From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
To: <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 7:11 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Re: Timing and dwell


> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
> ----------------------------------------------------------Hello Gary
>
You are right, I am rying to tune it out, Its puzzling me why I can't get
this thing to run somewhat correctly. It makes it real hard to get out on
the highway when you
step on the gas and nothing happens but smoke!!  Looking at the dwell meter,
it stays rock steady from ildle on up, so I would assume that the timing is
ok, or should I say the points aren't bouncing. The advance seems to be
working ok now and I get a total of about 15 degrees advance. Its the second
carb that I rebuilt, and it does the
same exact thing,so I am ruling out the carb. I'm just guessing now that the
compression is dropping or something at high rpm and its just not burning
the fuel?
Thanks
BIll
Yes its a flathead
> You can't make a silk purse out of a so........When I was younger I tried
to
> "Tune" the age out of a lot of engines with no luck.  Even with good
> compression there are other factors that can enter into the picture in an
> old engine.  The rubbing block should not contact the cam in the center of
> it's cycle, otherwise it would keep them open all the time but if what you
> mean is that one lobe makes contact and anther one does not then you have
> either a worn lobe (unlikely) or a bad bushing in the upper shaft area or
a
> bad shaft.  It could "Feel" tight and still not be running true.  The
other
> possibility is the points plate.  Does this dizzy have a vac?  If so the
vac
> could be moving the points plate and it is not returning or it's bushing
is
> shot.  I've seen these on old engines that never returned to the same
place
> twice.  If it was rebuilt the builder may have cut some corners.
>
> I may (sure I did actually) have missed the beginning of this....is this a
> flat head or Y block?  53 should be a flat head I would think?  The carbs
on
> these can be worn out in the throttle shaft area which allows extra air in
> to the mixture that is hard to tune out.  I've only run into this a few
> times that I was able to verify that it was the culprit but the older the
> carb is the more likely this sort of thing can happen.
>
> It's been a long time since I messed with a flat head but plan to make it
a
> project as soon as I can find the truck I want :-)
>
> --
> Happily Retired (but broke)
> Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
> 78 Bronco Loving, Gary
> --
>
> > new, replaced the points, condensor, rotor. The new points still
> > don't touch the cam all the time, only on the high
> > spots, but the dwell angle checks out ok on the meter, 28
> > degrees.
>
> > Bill
> > 1953 f250
> > Mercury V8
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

From: "Douglas R." <my59f100 hotmail.com>
Subject: Heads on a 302
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 00:27:12 -0500





 Hi I in the process of rebuilding a 1970 302. I not sure what to do when
it comes to the heads. The heads I have are 1970 with the rail rockers and
I'm getting mixed comments on the performance of these at higher RPM's.
Should I stay with these heads or should I bolt on a set of 289 heads to
boost the compression a little and get away from the rail rockers. I don't
have the funds for a set of high flow heads and want to stay carbureted. I
appreciate any comments and other suggestions.
_________________________________________________________________
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://explorer.msn.com


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Timing and dwell
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 08:50:32 -0800


This is a flat head so the valves are in the block.  If you are getting blue
smoke at higher rpms then I would venture that the valve guides are bad
enough to cause them not to seat correctly.  The faster you go the less time
they have to seat so perfect seating becomes more necessary plus worn guides
would allow more oil to get by.  Generally this will smoke when you let off,
not when you step down though so I tend to think we may still have a carb
problem somewhere or an intake leak that forces you to richen the mixture
and when you step on the gas the vacuum drops enriching it even more because
the leak is not leaking as much etc...  Now I really am grasping at
straws.......:-)

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> the second
> carb that I rebuilt, and it does the
> same exact thing,so I am ruling out the carb. I'm just guessing
> now that the
> compression is dropping or something at high rpm and its just not burning
> the fuel?
> Thanks
> BIll
> Yes its a flathead


------------------------------

From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 lni.net>
Subject: Re: Classified fees
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 11:02:43 -0800


If a part is that small and cheap why sell it in the first place?  Offer it
for shipping and be done with it.  Gentlemen, it costs the same amount to
host a free item as it does to host an expensive one.  It takes the same
amount of band width and words to describe and enter the specs of a small
part as it does for a whole truck so from Ken's position the cost and effort
is the same.

I would allow small items to drop off the list and keep what the traffic
will bear in his position.  If he is going to host a want add site then he
has to stay solvent in the process or not host it at all.  As I see it he
has to made a good business decision and just ask yourself what Meijer or
Home Depot or Lowe's would do in that case???  In business, if you don't
move it, you better lose it, eh?  The lists are still free and that's a
burden all in itself.  If enough people joined the club he could host a free
want adds site for club members but charge non members too.  At some point
this becomes viable but with only a few club members it's not very viable so
you all know what you have to do, eh?

--
Happily Retired (but broke)
Michigan Pot Hole Jumping,
78 Bronco Loving, Gary
--

> Should be a way to stay solvent and allow for small items too.
> Four bucks
> >wasn't economical when I sold my glove box lock last week so I
> sailed to eBay
>
> It would cost me more to implement such a system than
> we would recoup.
>
> Ken


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 13:22:07 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Ford Vehicle id contest results


The Ford family vehicle id contest winners have been
randomly selected:

One Grand Prize $60 value
-------------------------
   2001 Ford Truck Enthusiasts T-shirt
   "Classic" Ford Truck Enthusiasts T-shirt
   Licensed Ford ball cap
   2 Ford Truck Enthusiasts window/bumper stickers
   "Tough Tales" book
Winner: f10074 ford-trucks.net


Two First Prizes $32 value
--------------------------
   2001 Ford Truck Enthusiasts T-Shirt
   Ford Truck Enthusiasts bumper sticker
   "Tough Tales" book
Winners:
drifter localnet.com
redstone home.com


Four Second Prizes $15 value
------------------------------
   Choice 2001 or "Classic" Ford Truck Enthusiasts
   t-shirt
Winners:
d.vipond home.com
gselby4x4 earthlink.net
joecool warwick.net
lkf2 pld.com

If you're one of the winners please e-mail me at kpayne ford-trucks.com
to arrange receiving your prize!


Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 14:23:26 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: New FTE Sponsor


We have a new sponsor on our web site.  Since the beginning, our
practice  with  our web site advertisers has been to  make a  brief
announcement.  Please check out their web site.  Our  advertisers
help us to continue offering services to you.

Here is their announcement:

TS Performance Products has chips available for towing and racing!  We have the TS Performance 50hp and 75hp for towing and the 100hp extreme chip for racing and light to moderate towing.  We also carry a full line of diesel performance products such as propane systems, gauges and exhaust systems.  Check us out at www.tsperformanceproducts.com.

Please show them your support.

Thank you,
Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts


------------------------------

From: "Vierra, William BGI WAC" <William.Vierra barclaysglobal.com>
Subject: Re: 302 in '52 F-1
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 15:36:23 -0800


I have had three 302's in my 51 F-1 and it still has the straight axel.  The
first one had the front sump oil pan it cleared the axel by about five
inches.  The mounts are home made and I would recommend buying them from
Advance Adapters or some other source.

The left font motor mount from the flat head needs to be removed for
clearance on the fuel pump and you'll have the previously mentioned exhaust
clearance problems.  I am using stock 71 car exhaust manifolds, they work
fine it just requires a pretty good bend in the exhaust pipe right away on
the left side.

The current motor is from an 85 Truck which has a single rear sump oil pan.
It was an FI motor but for the ease of getting it running I put on the
manifold and carburetor from the 84 HO motor I had in it for about a week.

If you are still looking for a motor a 351 is just as difficult as a 302 and
has a little more power.  Also the 83 (I believe) or better car motors all
have roller cams which are a benefit over the truck motors of that period.
Also the Mustang dual sump pan should would fine.

------------------------------

From: PWPTRUCK1 aol.com
Date: Fri, 23 Mar 2001 22:43:00 EST
Subject: Re: drive shaft shortening


Thank you Gary and Glenn for the info about shortening my drive shaft. There
is no way I would try to do this myself. By the way, I found out that a 1984
F-350 dually rear axle will bolt up perfectly to a 1952 F-3. No moving the
spring perches!

Paul
52 F-3, getting real close to being road worthy

------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2001 #63
**********************************
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