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Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list pre61-list); Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:13:26 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 21:13:26 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar To: pre61-list digest users <listar Reply-to: pre61-list Subject: pre61-list Digest V2001 #62 Precedence: list ==================================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar "unsubscribe pre61-list" in the subject of the message. ==================================================================== --------------------------------------------------------------------- R White Associates Information, Data, and Communications Assurance Specializing in systems vulnerability studies at the macro and micro level. 35 years of experience in 5 nines systems for US Government. Contact white46 Phone: 703-801-9116 PO Box 146 Fax: 703-780-3493 Mt. Vernon, VA 22121 Robert W. White Jr., Owner --- Please visit our sponsor! --------------------------------------- ------------------------------------ pre61-list Digest Wed, 21 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001 Issue: 062 In This Issue: How Low Can I Go drive shaft shortening 49 dist Re: drive shaft shortening Re: How Low Can I Go Classifieds Re: Classifieds Re: Classifieds Timing and dwell Re: Timing and dwell ---------------------------------------------------------------------- From: "Jack Wart" <jack Subject: How Low Can I Go Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:20:58 -0500 Any body got any thoughts on how low you can go with a '52 F-1 that is going to be a daily driver with a 302 and AOD trans. ------------------------------ From: PWPTRUCK1 Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:39:10 EST Subject: drive shaft shortening Hi Ya'll. I swapped rear ends and need to shorten my drive shaft. How do I measure for the correct length? My truck has the two peice shaft with carrier bearing. Any advice? Thanks, Paul ------------------------------ From: "Stuart Falkner" <sfal Subject: 49 dist Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 21:54:43 -0600 Sometimes you will run across a set of points that bind in the pivot and will not close reliably. Try a new set. Remove and examine the points wire that runs under the point plate. Plate movement will eventually rub the wire bare in spots. Make sure the plate ground wire is intact (the braided wire with no insulation) ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: drive shaft shortening Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:35:47 -0800 The most accurate way is to measure between the centers of the bearing cups at each end (on the sides though not top or bottom) and let the shop know how you measured it so they can do the calculations themselves. Put the carrier bearing sleeve about 1/2 way in it's travel to measure. IF you really want Perfection (I know, I know :-)) you should remove the springs and let the axle set on the nubbers then position the sleeve in the fully compressed position but this requires that the axle is in the correct relationship with the chassis of course so leaf springs may pose a problem for this method. The point is that you want as much engagement as possible without ever reaching a point at full suspension compression that the sleeve bottoms out and puts pressure on the drive shaft but you don't want the dang thing falling off when you get some air either :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > Hi Ya'll. > I swapped rear ends and need to shorten my drive shaft. How do I > measure for > the correct length? My truck has the two peice shaft with carrier > bearing. > Any advice? > > Thanks, > Paul ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2001 22:57:22 -0700 From: Tura Cowan <jeffntura Subject: Re: How Low Can I Go I put a mustang 2 front end ifs in a 52 f-1, with a 351c and a fmx auto. The front bumper clearence was 5" from the ground. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 07:54:32 -0800 (PST) From: Robert Whitmore <rswhitmore Subject: Classifieds Ken, I don't mean to sound too negative, but it looks like the Classifieds section of the Ford-trucks site is dying. Since the fee to place ads was added, the number of ads on the site has dropped from around 700 to around 500 . I check the ads daily to see if someone has something I need, or needs something I have to sell. The smaller, lower priced, items are disappearing along with the ads looking for small parts. Finding the small hard to find parts is what made the classifieds so usefull. Maybe reducing the number of ads and activity on the site is what you are looking for, but for the average Ford lover like me the site is not as good as it used to be. Just my $0.02 . What do the rest of you think. Maybe I am the one off base. Bob --------------------------------- Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Personal Address - Get email at your own domain with Yahoo! Mail. ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 11:16:01 -0500 From: Ken Payne <kpayne Subject: Re: Classifieds At 10:54 AM 3/22/01, you wrote: >---------------------------------------------------------- >Support FTE - Check out our store: >http://www.motorhaven.com/ >---------------------------------------------------------- > >Ken, > >I don't mean to sound too negative, but it looks like the Classifieds section of the Ford-trucks site is dying. Since the fee to place ads was added, the number of ads on the site has dropped from around 700 to around 500 . I check the ads daily to see if someone has something I need, or needs something I have to sell. The smaller, lower priced, items are disappearing along with the ads looking for small parts. Finding the small hard to find parts is what made the classifieds so usefull. Maybe reducing the number of ads and activity on the site is what you are looking for, but for the average Ford lover like me the site is not as good as it used to be. Just my $0.02 . What do the rest of you think. Maybe I am the one off base. > > Bob Bob, Two choices: 1. The sponges are gone and only those who feel the site is worth something to them are posting ads. Therefore the number of ads has dropped. 2. Keep going down our old path and shut down FTE in 2-3 months. Or how about this.... allow free ads for those small hard to find parts but only allow people who pay for viewing access to those free ads to view them? Let the non-payers view only the paid ads. Since you found the old ad content extremely useful surely you'd have no objection to paying for it? Which is it? Is the site worth something to you? Is it a) all take and no give or b) showing a little appreciation for the time and money involved in the maintenance of the site? FYI, it costs over $1000/month just for the server and bandwidth. Ken Payne Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts ------------------------------ From: "fugate51" <fugate51 Subject: Re: Classifieds Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 12:58:16 -0500 Just a small amount of input here, I look at the 48-61 clasifieds everyday, When I find something I'm looking for GREAT! . When I have something to sell, I'll be happy to pay fee, NOT all of us can be in the buy and sell market at the same time. MY .02 Sam ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Payne" <kpayne To: <pre61-list Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2001 11:16 AM Subject: [pre61-list] Re: Classifieds > ---------------------------------------------------------- > Support FTE - Check out our store: > http://www.motorhaven.com/ > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > At 10:54 AM 3/22/01, you wrote: > >---------------------------------------------------------- > >Support FTE - Check out our store: > >http://www.motorhaven.com/ > >---------------------------------------------------------- > > > >Ken, > > > >I don't mean to sound too negative, but it looks like the Classifieds section of the Ford-trucks site is dying. > > > > Bob > > Bob, > > Two choices: > > 1. The sponges are gone and only those who feel the site is worth > > 2. Keep going down our old path and shut down FTE in 2-3 months. > ------------------------------ From: "Bill Hendrickson" <billjhs Subject: Timing and dwell Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 17:45:04 -0800 Ok guys, I checked the primary wire under the breaker plate, its ok and new, replaced the points, condensor, rotor. The new points still don't touch the cam all the time, only on the high spots, but the dwell angle checks out ok on the meter, 28 degrees. There is no play in the distributor shaft. After replacing the distributor, I reset timing, etc.. It still misses at high rpm (2800 and up) and still doesn't develop full power when driving, just bogs. I do notice now when someone else is driving that the motor starts to smoke at the same time it starts to bog. Blue smoke I might add. The compression test shows 85 to 95 in each cylinder except one, number 8 shows 105!!! I am starting to think after all of this that the motor is just tired and needs a good freshening up???!!!! Any comments Bill 1953 f250 Mercury V8 ------------------------------ From: "GaryBBB" <gpeters3 Subject: Re: Timing and dwell Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2001 19:11:37 -0800 You can't make a silk purse out of a so........When I was younger I tried to "Tune" the age out of a lot of engines with no luck. Even with good compression there are other factors that can enter into the picture in an old engine. The rubbing block should not contact the cam in the center of it's cycle, otherwise it would keep them open all the time but if what you mean is that one lobe makes contact and anther one does not then you have either a worn lobe (unlikely) or a bad bushing in the upper shaft area or a bad shaft. It could "Feel" tight and still not be running true. The other possibility is the points plate. Does this dizzy have a vac? If so the vac could be moving the points plate and it is not returning or it's bushing is shot. I've seen these on old engines that never returned to the same place twice. If it was rebuilt the builder may have cut some corners. I may (sure I did actually) have missed the beginning of this....is this a flat head or Y block? 53 should be a flat head I would think? The carbs on these can be worn out in the throttle shaft area which allows extra air in to the mixture that is hard to tune out. I've only run into this a few times that I was able to verify that it was the culprit but the older the carb is the more likely this sort of thing can happen. It's been a long time since I messed with a flat head but plan to make it a project as soon as I can find the truck I want :-) -- Happily Retired (but broke) Michigan Pot Hole Jumping, 78 Bronco Loving, Gary -- > new, replaced the points, condensor, rotor. The new points still > don't touch the cam all the time, only on the high > spots, but the dwell angle checks out ok on the meter, 28 > degrees. > Bill > 1953 f250 > Mercury V8 ------------------------------ End of pre61-list Digest V2001 #62 ********************************** -------------------------------------------------------------------- Ford Truck Enthusiasts offers books to help you restore your truck: -Ford Truck Parts Locating Guide -1948-1960 Ford truck shop manuals (printed and on CD-ROM) -1948-1960 Owners manuals -How to Restore Metal Auto Trim -1944-1952 Body Parts Catalog -The Complete Ford Flathead V8 Engine Manual -Plus Hundreds of decals! <a href="http://www.motorhaven.com/"> http://www.motorhaven.com/</a> ------------------------------------------------------------------- .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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