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pre61-list Digest Thu, 04 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 003

In This Issue:
50 f-1 frame blocking
Re: Engine rust
Re: Subject: F....350?
Re: '50 F-1 Frame blocking
Re: 50 f-1 frame blocking
Re: 50 f-1 frame blocking
Re: '50 F-1 Frame blocking
Club FTE Referral Program
Re: 59 Wiring
Re: which engine for a '58?
torsion bar?
300 cu inch 6 cyl engine

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 20:32:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Moody <zeener96 yahoo.com>
Subject: 50 f-1 frame blocking


Others may disagree, but the frame is basically strong enough and
doesn't need boxing for unmodified areas.  The frame should have some
flex and twist....and definately shouldn't be welded on more than
necessary.

Installing a larger engine, or relocating crossmembers are reasons
for boxing.

However, if you are going to install a rear mounted tank you will
have to move the rear crossmember.  This is also the crossmember
which supports the rear spring mounts.  Weld in a good strong piece
of channel for and aft of the tank and you should be fine.

If you remove the crossmember and don't strongly reinforce it, the
frame will have a tendency to twist outward as pressure is put on the
spring mount.

My 10 cents,

Dennis
--- Tulio <checker jps.net> wrote:
> it arrives I was hoping to 'box' the frame with added steel to
> reinforce
> the frame.  I would like to use a rear mounted gas tank, perhaps an
> Isuzu, and perhaps later I may even do the mustang II front
> clip...but,
> for now it will be stock.  My inquiry is to those who have done
> this
> reinforcement to their frames.  Does anyone have recommendations as
> to
> where on the frame it needs to be reinforced and where it is best
> to
> leave open for installation of other components such as brake
> lines, gas
> pump, fuel filter and/or other improvements?

=====
Zeener96 yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 08:59:03 -0500
From: 47Fred <zelda_1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Engine rust




Bob Jones wrote:
>
 I noticed that one of the the cooling tubes between the engine and
radiator was leaking.  I found that  it has accumulated rusty sludge in
the cooling system from sitting.  The heads look pretty clean but I
don't know what might be further down in the engine.

 Chances are pretty good that there is nothing of any interest inside
the engine block.  I suspect from your letter that the engine wasn't
filled with coolant while in storage, allowing corrosion to happen to
the thin hose tube, most of which fell into the thermostats. Those tubes
seem to always be rusted out.

A friend suggested that I run acid through the system to clean it out.
Should I use muriatic acid or is there something better?

Once when I was younger and more stupid (I hope) than I am now, I tried
this. You can't really hurt the engine, there is too much iron in there
but boy oh boy can you boil out a radiator. I wouldn't advise anyone to
screw around with acid in the cooling system, take out the thermostats,
make up a hose adapter and reverse flush the thing with fresh water.
Then forward flush it. Bubble some compressed air into the block, and
hit it with the water again. When the water flows clean, you're done.

Same with the radiator, rig up some hose adapters, and reverse flow it,
then bubble air in and flush again. If this doesn't clear out most or
all of any trash, you have more problem than a bag of "Sizzle" will fix.

Don't forget to flush the heater also, and when done, put in a fresh
batch of antifreeze. Lots of people don't realize that one of the key
ingredients, and what actually "wears out" in antifreeze, are corrosion
inhibitors. Any vehicle put into to storage ought to be flushed with
fresh water, and filled with fresh coolant. I even dump a little
antifreeze into the engine blocks of my parts truck just to be on the
safe side.

47Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 09:13:54 -0500
From: 47Fred <zelda_1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: F....350?





>  I have accest to what looks like a 1960 super duty 1 ton.  it is totally
>  trashed, as it was used as a feed truck on a ranch for way too many years.
>  all the emblems are gone, the rear fenders, as well as the doors!  it is a
>  292 truck, with 4 speed.  what makes it unusual is Its 10" bed, and 6 lug
> 17"
>  wheels.
>

  This fellow truckers, is an opportunity for a truly unique project,
one that separates the toys from the rest. How many F100's are the on
the road? Probably more than Ford built, but one like this ? Just this
one. Probably not much fun to run down to the quickie mart, with, but
restored and loaded with say, 125 bales of hay, what a hit at the
Saturday night cruise in. Take it to the extreme in true "Odd Rod"
fashion, with a blown elephant (maybe a turbo charged, fuel injected
flathead??) Fat Mickey Thompsons, and some skinny drag type
front-runners, add a over-length gear shift with a Rat Fink knob, and a
dice wheel spinner, and who'd tear up the title?

 I say "Do you own thing Greg, and don't let some sissy folk sass you.

47Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 09:22:34 -0500
From: 47Fred <zelda_1 prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: '50 F-1 Frame blocking




Tulle wrote:

>
>
> it arrives I was hoping to 'box' the frame with added steel to
> reinforce the frame.

Why?? You like to weld, or you plan to throw in that blown elephant I
mentioned? Crawl under your local F150, and look at that piece of sheet
metal and compare it to the Bad Boy in your yard. If you add a the front
clip, that's where you need to reinforce, seems like every one I've
looked at close has cracks.

 47Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 09:35:28 -0500
Subject: Re: '50 F-1 Frame blocking
From: Fred g 454 <fredg454 concentric.net>


47Fred is right,

the frame ws designed to be a part of the suspension. It flexes with the
springs and helps to absorb shocks. If you change the suspension to an IFS
or the rear to a four bar or air bag set up, then you have the option of
boxing the frame to help the new stuff. Otherwise leave it alone.
Check out my Isuzu tank in these pics...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com:80/MotorCity/Garage/7442/progress2.html

Fred hotrod 56
>
> Tulle wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> it arrives I was hoping to 'box' the frame with added steel to
>> reinforce the frame.
>
> Why?? You like to weld, or you plan to throw in that blown elephant I
> mentioned? Crawl under your local F150, and look at that piece of sheet
> metal and compare it to the Bad Boy in your yard. If you add a the front
> clip, that's where you need to reinforce, seems like every one I've
> looked at close has cracks.
>
> 47Fred
>
>


------------------------------

From: "O'Connell, Dennis M" <DMO1 pge.com>
Subject: Re: 50 f-1 frame blocking
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 07:28:41 -0800


Dennis I have a clip on my 55 so it was boxed past the frame and clip
connection.  I seem to recall seeing an article about the F100's having a
tendency to crack frames in the area around the front cab mounts.  I don't
know if this is true for the F1's or not.

Question for you.  Do you feel you need to add the reinforcement if you just
move the rear crossmember back a couple of inches?

Thanks

Dennis

> ----------
> From: Dennis Moody[SMTP:zeener96 yahoo.com]
> Reply To: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2001 8:32 PM
> To: Pre 61 list
> Subject: [pre61-list] 50 f-1 frame blocking
>
>
> Others may disagree, but the frame is basically strong enough and
> doesn't need boxing for unmodified areas.  The frame should have some
> flex and twist....and definately shouldn't be welded on more than
> necessary.
>
> Installing a larger engine, or relocating crossmembers are reasons
> for boxing.
>
> However, if you are going to install a rear mounted tank you will
> have to move the rear crossmember.  This is also the crossmember
> which supports the rear spring mounts.  Weld in a good strong piece
> of channel for and aft of the tank and you should be fine.
>
> If you remove the crossmember and don't strongly reinforce it, the
> frame will have a tendency to twist outward as pressure is put on the
> spring mount.
>
> My 10 cents,
>
> Dennis
> --- Tulio <checker jps.net> wrote:
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 11:19:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Dennis Moody <zeener96 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 50 f-1 frame blocking



--- "O'Connell, Dennis M" <DMO1 pge.com> wrote:
I seem to recall seeing an article about the F100's
> having a
> tendency to crack frames in the area around the front cab mounts.
> I don't
> know if this is true for the F1's or not.

Mine were cracked, but they are separate pieces of formed sheet metal
riveted to the frame.  Not sure about the 53-56's though.


> Question for you.  Do you feel you need to add the reinforcement if
> you just
> move the rear crossmember back a couple of inches?

Don't know???  You have to also consider how you mount the tank.  You
need to give it a little room to give when the frame flexes....and
you need to make sure the frame doesn't give too much in that area
and destroy your tank.

Since I will never haul anything other than a lawn chair in the back
of my truck I am sure it would have been fine.  But!!  Better safe
than sorry.

Dennis


=====
Zeener96 yahoo.com

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Photos - Share your holiday photos online!
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://photos.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

From: "Larry Esau" <lee03 cvip.fresno.com>
Subject: Re: '50 F-1 Frame blocking
Date: Thu, 4 Jan 2001 12:30:57 -0800


Boxing the F1 frame at the rear to put in a tank won't affect it much, but
boxing it piecemeal at other places might. The ladder frame was designed to
twist easily down its axis to prevent breakage while carrying heavy loads
over uneven surfaces on the stiff leaf-spring suspension. That's why
everything is riveted, there is no X member, and it "handles" like a truck.
If you lay the bare F1 frame on the floor and pick up the rear end of one
rail, you can lift it quite a bit before the other rail comes off the floor.
The frame twists easily down the frame axis by design. Boxing it anywhere
between the front and rear suspensions will work against the original design
and may have unintended consequences like broken rivets and cracks in the
frame if you still use your truck to carry heavy loads on the original
suspension.

IFS is a Whole Different Ballgame. With IFS it is critical to stiffen the F1
frame against twisting if you expect the truck to handle well. The frame
must become a stable platform from which the new suspension can do all the
work, and that requires extensive modification because the F1 frame was
designed to do just the opposite. In my daily-driver F1 with IFS and a 4-bar
coil-over-shock rear suspension, I use a fully-welded frame, full boxing
between the front and rear suspensions, added IFS crossmember, added
X-member extending from the firewall to the stock center crossmember, and
two added crossmembers behind that for the rear suspension mounts and fuel
tank. This design is the same as any good hotrod or passenger car chassis
with an X-member in the center. There is little twist in the frame and it
drives like a modern sports truck. Don't understimate what is required to
put IFS on a simple ladder frame and really make it handle.

Larry Esau, Kingsburg CA.




> Hello Group,
>
>         Hoping to get a good response from those diehard restore
> entreprenuers...  I am doing a frame-off restoration of a '50 F-1 and
> have gotten the everything off to the bare frame.  I used a wire wheel
> on a drill to remove debris and a toothbrush size wire brush to get
> those hard to reach spots.  I've ordered the Por-15 sealant but before
> it arrives I was hoping to 'box' the frame with added steel to reinforce
> the frame.  I would like to use a rear mounted gas tank, perhaps an
> Isuzu, and perhaps later I may even do the mustang II front clip...but,
> for now it will be stock.  My inquiry is to those who have done this
> reinforcement to their frames.  Does anyone have recommendations as to
> where on the frame it needs to be reinforced and where it is best to
> leave open for installation of other components such as brake lines, gas
> pump, fuel filter and/or other improvements?


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 16:50:13 -0500
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: Club FTE Referral Program


Club FTE is off to a fantastic start. Club Memberships will
be setup this weekend and membership cards mailed out on
Monday along with complete information on setting up and
using your membership accounts. Those with t-shirts in
their membership orders have already had the t-shirts shipped.

Since the club is off to a good start, we've decided to give
an added benefit for club members! For each person a club
member refers to Club FTE that signs up you'll receive a $5
credit in the FTE store! The FTE store is in the process of
adding a ton of new items for new and older trucks next week
so this will be of great benefit to active recruiters.

There is a $100 limit to credits. This does not mean you can't
get more than $100 in credits. It simply means you have to use
your $100 of credit before you can earn more. The sign-up form
has a place for referring members.

The club pages can be found at:

<a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.clubfte.com">www.clubfte.com</a>

Ken Payne
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Admin


------------------------------

From: AMorgan351 aol.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 19:51:35 EST
Subject: Re: 59 Wiring


Tim
I noticed the comment about the cloth wrapped wire.  I was surprised because
my stock 57 has nice vinyl wiring. Did Ford go back to cloth?  That's hard to
believe.

AL
No-name 57 F100

I've got a '58 that I wired by hand last year, just by finding the short
circuits and replacing the wire. In March I purchased a "painless
performance" 12 circuit fuse block. and installed it. Next will be the
entire harness, (cloth wrapped wire makes me
nervous).



------------------------------

From: AMorgan351 aol.com
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 19:58:56 EST
Subject: Re: which engine for a '58?


Steve
I've got a 57 with the standard y-block 272 + 4bbl and duals with my
fordomatic two-speed.   It really is a sweet engine with plenty of pep and
quite original.  So while many will endorse later engines, hopefully of the
Ford persuasion, consider the Yblock.
AL
No-name 57 F100

Hopefully I will be putting an engine in my 1958 F100 sometime this year.
I'm having trouble deciding what to put in it though.  I've got the 223 I-6
that was in it to start with and I had pulled it out for the purpose of a
rebuild (which I haven't started yet).  I also like the idea of putting a v8
in it though.  It seems that parts for the 223 will cost more than for an 8
cylinder.  Any thoughts/suggestions about this?


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 20:41:17 -0600
From: Chris/Jennifer Chambers <cjmc usit.net>
Subject: torsion bar?


I am debating using a torsion bar front end for my 60 panel.  I have
seen the set up on a friends 48 ford and like the ease of installation.
Does anyone have this setup and if so what are the pros and cons of the
installation.  How driveable does it make the truck.  What company
should I deal with? The set up that I have seen uses a Chrysler for the
components.  Thanks for any help.
-Chris


------------------------------

From: "Jack Wart" <jack circleburners.com>
Subject: 300 cu inch 6 cyl engine
Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2001 00:29:25 -0500


I have a '52 F-1 and the 215 cu inch engine is tired. Has anyone out there
put a 300 cu inch 6 with three speed in a '52?

Any info will be appreciated.


------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2001 #3
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