Received: with LISTAR (v1.0.0; list pre61-list); Thu, 04 Jan 2001 00:13:06 -0500 (EST)
Date: Thu, 04 Jan 2001 00:13:06 -0500 (EST)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: pre61-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: pre61-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: pre61-list Digest V2001 #2
Ford Truck Enthusiasts 1948-1960 Truck Mailing List
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In This Issue:
Re: which engine for a '58
Nice F100 Site of interest
Re: Nice F100 Site of interest
'51 Ignition switch and door locks???
Pigeon Forge 2001
A friend suggested that I run acid through the system to
Car Events in Pacific NW in 2001
'50 F-1 Frame blocking
From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Tue, 2 Jan 2001 23:59:01 EST
Subject: Re: CHEBIES???
In a message dated 1/2/01 8:02:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
listar ford-trucks.com writes:
That's not a problem. Its up to the local chapters to determine
how much of a ribbing they give you! :-)
You getting soft on the sbc's?
Glenn in TN
57 F100 -- in process
93 Mercury Capri (you think parts are hard to find for the 57-60 F100's!)
Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2001 21:43:13 -0800
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Re: which engine for a '58
I've done it both ways, stock and modified and the decision for me
usually came down to what was available.
For example, I just picked up a 302/C4 combo for $100 that a fellow in
my local car club had sitting after pulling it out of a running/driving
car. Another friend gave me a stock FORD 4 barrel aluminum manifold for
it and I found some Australian tubular headers at a swap meet. They're
all going in my '56 F100. If you want to see a picture of it, check out
my website (follow the 56 F100 link).
Another example is: a number of years ago I put a 302/3 speed & OD in a
'68 F100 that I bought without an engine. I drove that truck for a
number of years before selling it. Used it to haul hay and about
anything I could put in the box.
As others have indicated the 302 has lots of parts and hop-up items
available for it especially compared to the 6 cylinder; but if your
objective is to tow and haul things, the 300" 6 can be a good choice.
Just keep your ear to the ground and you should be able to come up with
either a donor car or and engine/tranny option. You definately have a
big enough engine bay to take about all comers.
(Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)
>From: steve <spowel4 pop.mindspring.com>
>Subject: which engine for a '58?
>Date: Sun, 31 Dec 2000 17:29:13 -0500
>Hopefully I will be putting an engine in my 1958 F100
>year. I'm having trouble deciding what to put in it
>though. I've got the
>223 I-6 that was in it to start with and I had pulled
>it out for the
>purpose of a rebuild (which I haven't started yet).
>I also like the idea
>of putting a v8 in it though. It seems that parts
>for the 223 will
>cost more than for an 8 cylinder. Any
>thoughts/suggestions about this?
From: "shawn" <shawnwo home.com>
Subject: Nice F100 Site of interest
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 01:34:05 -0800
Thought i would pass this Website link out i found. The Gentleman has done a fine job
of providing plenty of pictures of F100's and Pigeon Forge Meets etc.
I saw some recent comments about bear-claw latches. Has anyone installed
them on an 53-55 F100 and retained the original levers?
I want to install them, but have the original handles, both inside and
outside work normally. The lever mechanism looks to be at right angles to
what's in the truck. Any ideas?
Incidentally, my wife and I drove/rode the recently "finished" 54 F100 from
McKinney, Texas to North Central Florida over the Christmas holidays, via
South Texas. Interesting trip, but a lot of fun.
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Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 09:33:46 -0600
From: Mark Hendricks <markhendricks oneilhagaman.com>
Subject: Dash Guages
Is there a kit or some other way to repaint the face of the guages?
Heard about a kit once but can't seem to find one. The only guage that
really needs help is the speedometer, where the face looks a bit rusty.
Any help appreciated.
From: "Greg Mullins" <gmullins naxs.net>
Subject: '51 Ignition switch and door locks???
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 12:56:27 -0600
I am near completion of my 51 restoration, and am looking for an Ignition
switch and door locks that are keyed alike, well, they wouldn't have to be
keyed alike, but it would be very nice. I have tried Carpenter Productions
and was told that I would not find either the ignition switch, or the door
locks. Can anyone point me in the right direction???
Tim, I and my son are planning on attending PF this May.
Last year we tried to have a main motel, but this was a fiasco.
Two years ago we did better; a group of us stayed at the Days Inn.
I am ready to make reservations, but I will hold off for a week or two
see if there is any plan to gather in one main place. If not, I guess
I'll be back
at the Royal Inn again; it is a few blocks away from the action, down by
light 3 (Wears Valley Road, I think).
One good thing about the Royal Inn is that there is a Krogers about 2
blocks away, which saved me a bunch of money between evening meals, plus
my dear WIFE had the car most the time we were there, so walking was my
only option. Ever try to haul a hood back from the Grand on the
trolley? We did! She did mention she is done shopping PF, so I guess
the car or F100 will be available this year!
From: DewayneReding aol.com
Date: Wed, 3 Jan 2001 19:06:15 EST
Subject: A friend suggested that I run acid through the system to
Acid is probably the only solution if you are rusted up like you say. When I
first started wrenching in the 70s, the radiator flushing solutions you could
buy were much better. Most of them were based on oxalic acid. Due to
toxicity of oxalic, they now contain safer chemicals which don't work too
well. I bought oxalic acid crystals from the pharmacist a few years ago and
that is what I recommend. The warmer the engine gets the better oxalic cuts
rust. Some cautions: when you are done you must neutralize with baking soda
solution or it will keep on eating. Where goggles as a boilover which easily
occurs when the antifreeze is gone would obviously be dangerous. For cooling
systems that need cleaned of slime but not rust, liquid or gel automatic
dishwasher soap works super.
Date: Wed, 03 Jan 2001 18:50:06 -0800
From: Tim Bowman <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Car Events in Pacific NW in 2001
I've posted a listing of Car/Truck events in the Pacific NW at my
website address below. If you have additions send me an email offlist.
BTW, Pigeon Forge here I come in May for the F100 nationals! I have the
(Pacific NW Carshow Information & more)
I sent this before but did not see it in the listing so I'm sending it
once more. Sorry if others have seen it before.
Hoping to get a good response from those diehard restore
entreprenuers... I am doing a frame-off restoration of a '50 F-1 and
have gotten the everything off to the bare frame. I used a wire wheel
on a drill to remove debris and a toothbrush size wire brush to get
those hard to reach spots. I've ordered the Por-15 sealant but before
it arrives I was hoping to 'box' the frame with added steel to reinforce
the frame. I would like to use a rear mounted gas tank, perhaps an
Isuzu, and perhaps later I may even do the mustang II front clip...but,
for now it will be stock. My inquiry is to those who have done this
reinforcement to their frames. Does anyone have recommendations as to
where on the frame it needs to be reinforced and where it is best to
leave open for installation of other components such as brake lines, gas
pump, fuel filter and/or other improvements?
Eagerly awaiting recommendations to finish this stage that I may
ready for the next stage.
'50 F-1 (newest member to the family)
'60 F-100 Custom Cab
'77 280z, '78 Jeep CJ5 &
'79 Harley Sportster
End of pre61-list Digest V2001 #2
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