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Subject: pre61-list Digest V2001 #15
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pre61-list Digest Fri, 19 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 015

In This Issue:
Re: Fender repair patch panels
Bed wood specs
Hood Hinge Fix
Re: Mustang II clips
F250
Re: Mustang II clips
Re: Mustang II clips
Re: AC in the Panel
'51 HORN

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Richard Downing" <richarddowning worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Fender repair patch panels
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 18:04:40 -0500


They are only made for the front fenders as far as I know.  I talked to the
manufacturer once, and he had no interest in making them for the rear.  The
manufacturer is:  EMS Automotive, (216) 541-4585 (Ohio).


Richard Downing
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark Wilson <mwilson russellinfo.com>
To: <pre61-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Monday, January 15, 2001 6:17 PM
Subject: [pre61-list] Fender repair patch panels


>
>
> Does anybody know who makes/sells these for the front of the rear fenders?
> Mine are all rotted out where the running boards bolt up to them.
> I remember seeing these preformed panels that weld in, I just can't
> remember who makes them.
>
> Regards,
>   Mark Wilson
>
>
>


------------------------------

From: DewayneReding aol.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:44:06 EST
Subject: Bed wood specs

I have a drawing of the bed boards for anyone that wants them.  Email me at
dewaynereding aol.com

Dewayne Reding
53 Ford
302 still on the engine stand
welder idling
(still wishing someone would send the motor mount set back measurements from
their 302 install, Volare clip or stock suspension)



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 19:55:14 -0500
From: Mark Barnes <barnes telerama.com>
Subject: Hood Hinge Fix

Howdy.
For those having hood hinge trouble, here is a snipet from a past digest that I kept in my file. I figured it would come in handy when re-doing my trucks if I ran into hood problems.
Hope it is helpful.

Mark...
'53 F350 Flatbed Dually
'55 F250


>
> > Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Loose Hood-Still searching for answers
> >
> > I had similar  problem with my 52. I installed new stainless steel springs
> > and took the hinges completely apart and sanded off any rust and metal burrs.
> > Don't apply a heavy coating of paint, that will bind. I then used a graphite
> > lubricant on all the metal surfaces that rub against each other. Check and
> > make sure that the hood is not binding against fender or other sheet metal on
> > the front end. The last thing to check is that the seal on the fire wall is
> > not touching before it should.
> >
> > The most important thing, are new springs.
>
>
>
> > Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Hood Pop Up
>
> > My 54 F-100 hood was doing the same (raising in the back, even after rebuilt
> > hood springs) until my "Auto Techie" brother took alook at it.  He tightned
> > the center post (for lack of real name) at front of hood where it had no more
> > slack.  The post is slotted on the bottom and a nut on the top, this
> > tightened the spring tension and the hood closes much tighter, better,
> > snugger whatever you want to call it.  I have yet to have the hood vibrate
> > and raise in the back.  Just an idea!  Much more peaceful to drive not having
> > to worry if the hood is gonna blow...  Best of Luck
>
>
> > Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Re: Hood Pop Up
> >
> > That is my experience as well on our 55.  Fix the front to take care
> > of the back.  Reverse Osmosis?  It works.
> >
>
>
> > Subject: FTE Pre61 - Re: Hood Pop Up
>
> > >My 54 F-100 hood was doing the same (raising in the back, even after
> > rebuilt
> > >hood springs) until my "Auto Techie" brother took alook at it.  He tightned
> > >the center post (for lack of real name) at front of hood where it had no
> > more
> > >slack.  The post is slotted on the bottom and a nut on the top, this
> > >tightened the spring tension and the hood closes much tighter, better,
> > >snugger whatever you want to call it.  I have yet to have the hood vibrate
> > >and raise in the back.  Just an idea!  Much more peaceful to drive not
> > having
> > >to worry if the hood is gonna blow...  Best of Luck
>
>
>
> > Subject: Re: FTE Pre61 - Loose Hood-Still searching for answers
> >
> > Where the hood hinges bolt to the cowl you can maximize the rotation of the Hinge-to-cowl relationship  such as it will help to pull the hood down. You can do this from inside the cab while the hood is closed for a "feel" as to if it is helping. I had luck this way with 2 of my trucks 53 & 55. The bolt holes have some slop to them. I think this coupled with the front latch adjustment will do it. Just a suggestion.
> >
>
> > >I had similar  problem with my 52. I installed new stainless steel springs
> > >and took the hinges completely apart and sanded off any rust and metal burrs.
> > >Don't apply a heavy coating of paint, that will bind. I then used a graphite
> > >lubricant on all the metal surfaces that rub against each other. Check and
> > >make sure that the hood is not binding against fender or other sheet metal on
> > >the front end. The last thing to check is that the seal on the fire wall is
> > >not touching before it should.
> > >
> > >The most important thing, are new springs.
> > >
> > >That's my two cents.



------------------------------

From: Fifty7F100 cs.com
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:02:04 EST
Subject: Re: Mustang II clips


Tulio,

I'm sure you already have some info on this, but I will chime in. Nobody puts
a "clip" out of an original Mustang II into their truck. I wondered how the
cheapest car Ford ever made (save the pinto) would hold up in a 1/2 ton
truck. You would need to at least purchase an aftermarket crossmember (much
stronger) and then transplant the arms, springs, strut arms, rack and pinion,
and other original pieces. I have read that the original crossmember would be
way too flimsy to hold up in a truck. I think as well that the rebuild (along
with the corresponding hassle) on the original pieces might compare with the
purchase of a complete aftermarket Mustang II clip.

The nova clip installation does require the removal of the entire front frame
of your truck. This is not advisable (take it from experience)! You still
need to rebuild the entire workings of this front end. Then you have a welded
joint in a very stressed part of your truck.

The volare clip can be installed without cutting your truck in half, but it
might require some trimming. Gibbon sells a crossmember for this application
that requires purchasing the rest of the Chrysler "guts" from a junk yard.

There is still another kit that uses Dodge Dakota parts with their
crossmember. I don't know how this company is doing now. I have seen it
installed in some older magazines, but I have heard anything about this
lately. I think the company is Industrial Chassis out in Phoenix.

I know this is more than you wanted. If I had it to do over again with my 57,
I would go with the Mustang II - probably from Fatmans.

Glenn in TN
57 F100 -- in process
93 Mercury Capri (you think parts are hard to find for the 57-60 F100's!)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 20:16:42 -0800
From: William Hendrickson <billjhs bellatlantic.net>
Subject: F250


Hello,
What is the GVWR of a 1953 F250 Truck?
Thanks
Bill


------------------------------

From: "Tim Bowman" <tkbowman qwest.net>
Subject: Re: Mustang II clips
Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 21:49:16 -0800


Tulio:

I'm in the process of doing exactly what you are trying to do, only I'm
doing it on a '56 F100.  I obtained a '78 Mustang II front clip (everything
from just in front of the firewall forward to the bumpers including the
wheels and tires and a power rack (all for free from a friend in my local
car club).  I've cut off the frame, core support and inner fender panels to
a smaller size so that I can now drill out the spot welds to get down to
just the clip (which BTW is still quite heavy!).  It'll then be necessary to
split the clip in two pieces and weld in a section of 3/16" plate to obtain
the necessary width (I don't know if that's necessary on your '50), create a
few small filler pieces to fit between the clip and the frame.  The rack
will be relocated using one of the second set of holes.  Of course, also it
is necessary to box in the frame to build in some rigidity.  Keep in mind in
comparing the Mustang II clip to the Volare that the MUSTANG II was designed
for a 3400lb car.

If you would like a photo of my stripped down clip, email me and I'll take a
digital photo.  I would post it on my website (where there presently are
other pictures of my '56 project) or send it to you.  I think you'll be able
to see how much you can trim.

The braces that are attached at a diagonal from the clip to the frame should
be saved and re-installed on your setup unless you elect to purchase
aftermarket lower "A" arms which don't require them.  I like the idea of
retaining the diagonal braces from a structural standpoint.  Again there are
mounting kits which weld in.

Re: the small diameter of the lug bolt pattern, don't worry about those as
you won't use them.  You can purchase aftermarket rotors that are drilled to
the correct bolt pattern and that will also give you 11" rotors.  Of course
the caliper mounting plate will have to be changed as well.

I hope that this helps, feel free to ask any other questions.



Tim Bowman
tkbowman qwest.net
website: www.users.qwest.net/~tkbowman
(Pacific NW Carshow information & more)



------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:02:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mustang II clips


Tulio,

You don't have to cut the frame to install a MII kit.
You can buy the kit with 11 inch brakes and all the
right parts from Fatman Ent, Heidts, TCI and others. I
have a TCI coil-over shock version w/power rack and
pinion steering, 11 inch disc brakes, etc. You can
save all your old parts, in case you want to go back
to factory. But I guarantee that you won't.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V

>
> Date: Wed, 17 Jan 2001 23:17:32 -0800
> From: Tulio <checker jps.net>
> Subject: Mustang II clips
>
>
> Well, today I went to the wrecking yard on the hunt.
>  I was looking for
> 'treasures' to review for my '50 F-1 restoration.  I
> found they had a
> Volare and there was also a mustang II.  After
> reviewing the Volare
> front end I looked at the mustang and noted that the
> mustang front wheel
> bolt pattern was quite small comparatively to the
> F-1.  In any case, the
> suspension seemed quite easily removable in one
> piece it seemed.  The
> QUESTION I came to was EXACTLY where does one cut
> off the front clip
> from the mustang?  I noticed there were bars going
> from the axles
> towards the rear and fastened to the frame.  I take
> it that those as
> well must come out?  And since they seemed to be
> attached to some sort
> of transmission bracket.. does that come out too?
> I'm wondering if this
> is the way originally it was done before the premade
> mustang IFS systems
> came out.  I can also see how the mustang clip would
> bring the body
> lower than the Volare.  Hmm..  what's the scoop on
> doing it straight
> from a mustang II?


__________________________________________________
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Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Jan 2001 22:20:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Dan Lee <danlee_58 yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: AC in the Panel


Paul,
I just installed an air conditioning unit made by Old
Air. It was easy to install. I don't know how good it
works, because it is cold outside now. The heater and
defroster are sufficient for my pickup, but someone
was just complaining about his on this list. I think
you might want a much larger evaporator unit under
your dash, or two evaporators for your panel truck.
You may be able to install a second evaporator from a
mini-van, search the bone yards.

Dan Lee
'53 F100
400C-4V


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices.
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://auctions.yahoo.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 20 Jan 2001 16:20:59 -0800
From: Daniel Swagger <dswagger qwest.net>
Subject: '51 HORN


HELP !   I SEEM TO HAVE ALL THE PARTS TO HOOK UP MY HORN IN
MY '51.  THE FIRST PROBLEM IS THE WIRE THAT GOES INTO THE
CENTER OF THE STEERING COLUMN HITS A DEAD END AND I CAN NOT
FIGURE OUT HOW TO ATTACH THE ELECTRICAL CONNECTION ?  THE
CONNECTOR WIRE NEXT TO THE GEAR BOX MUST COME OUT SOMEWHERE,
DANG IF I CAN SEE IT ?  IS THERE AN EXIT HOLE NEXT TO THE
GEAR END OF THE COLUMN OR WHAT ?   NEED SOME INFO FROM THE
POOL OF THOSE THAT HAVE DONE THAT WITH SUCCESS.     DANIEL


------------------------------

End of pre61-list Digest V2001 #15
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